OUR YORKSHIRE LETTER.

Otago Witness, Issue 4031, 16 June 1931, Page 16

OUR YORKSHIRE LETTER.

SOME FEATURES OF THE MANUFACTURING SITUATION. ENCOURAGING PROSPECTS FOR CONSUMPTION OF WOOL. (From Our Special Correspondent.) BRADFORD, April 9. All the usual interest is being shown in the wool position, but there is nothing of special importance to say about business operations. Offices have been closed two days this week for Easter, and some of the mills have started running again. The majority of traders are disposed to legat'd the outlook as encouraging, although all upward movement of values has been checked for the time being. Merino and crossbred tops have been sold at reasonable figures, the price of an average 64's now being around 25d and warp 26d to 26-Jd, whilst 56’s average can be bought at 16Jd. and 46’s carded and prepared at 13d. Quotations on ’change are certainly not so reasonable as this, and some firms report having done a little business without having to accept any less money. The principal feature is that the recovery in the raw material still leaves it at a reasonable price, and there is every probability of forthcoming supplies being readily absorbed. Combing machinery is likely to be kept busy turning out fine tops, the missing link being the comparatively small absorption of crossbreds. If the latter were being called for as well as merinos there would be more cause for satisfaction. Besides the modification of prices in London at the last sales, certain overseas markets have not been quite so buoyant. This seems to be attributable as much to the character of the offerings as to unwillingness on the part of buyers to purchase further big quantities or to follow the market in a further upward direction. Any slackness in crossbreds is chiefly attributable to the fact that fashion is still running largely on fine cloths. Generally speaking, a larger call for the delivery of yarns would strengthen the hands of spinners. It looks as if big weights bought at low prices will have to be absorbed before manufacturers will again place substantial contracts. The demand for piece goods is capable of considerable improvement, and wholesale and retail houses are still resisting any advance in the price of cloth, which corresponds to the level attained by wool and tops. At f he same time it can be emphasised that Tie position as a wholesale is sound and reasonably encouraging. PUSHING BRITISH FABRICS.

The writer takes it that readers will be interested in anything which affects the consumption of wool in any part of the world. It should therefore be worth mentioning that the Board of Trade has suggested to the appropriate section of the Bradford Chamber of Commerce sending a deputation to South America to advertise West Riding piece goods. If the proposal is adopted it is quite probable that a representative of the Department of Overseas Trade would accompany the deputation. The possibilities of this mission have been discussed by manufacturers and export houses in Bradford, and there is general approval of the idea which has prompted it being brought forward, which, of course, is that British firms can very well do with more export orders, and will have to make a definite fight if they intend to hold their own in South American and other markets. It is felt, however, that no outlet in South America is being neglected, and that a much bigger volume of trade could, be done if cloths could be offered at less money. _ It is also stated that wholesale buyers in South America are not lacking interest in British cloths. They are always willing to consider them, and it is a fact that they are continually doing so. If the presentation of attractive fabrics was in itself sufficient to secure orders many firms in the Bradford district would be much busier. Several of our manufacturers have travellers in South America at the present time, these covering the whole continent, but the difficulty .is to offer goods at a price which enables them to compete with those made in Europe. There is also the question of arranging terms of payment, and in

this respect the Argentine is perhaps the most attractive. It is impossible to do business with some, countries unless eight months’ bills will be accepted. Not every firm is prepared to sacrifice interest in this way, and because of this it is particularly difficult to do anything with Brazil. A Bradford manufacturer of ladies’ dress goods has expressed the opinion that 5 per cent, of the buyers will take high-class goods almost irrespective of price, 25 per cent, want something which they consider to be the best possible at the price, and 70 per cent, make price the sole consideration—that is, they want something cheap, and will not pay any more even if it means getting something which is intrinsically better value. VIRGIN WOOL MAKES THE BEST CLOTH. This week the writer has inspected several cloths intended for ladies’ and men’s wear for the spring of 1932, and judged in the light of price, design, and colourings many of them should sell well. The manufacturer who has put out the patterns makes price secondary to quality, colour, and design, his argument being that he must show something novel and specially good. He claims that his experience is that wholesale buyers will pay for these. According to this firm’s ideas, it pays to be able to offer - something specially good. The shades likely to be popular are browns and chocolates. Greys and grey mixtures are not likely to be in vogue. Mixture of check and stripe designs are being introduced, twist threads being used in several cloths. Evidently the manufacturer’s idea is to produce effect by distinctive colourings.

This season Italian cloths seem to be having a fair run in London among wholesale makers-up of ladies’ costumes. One Bradford manufacturer states that he has encountered keen competition in a velour cloth of 15 to 16 ounces weight and 54 inches wide, the price being 2s 5d per yard. This cloth is dyed in all colours, including pastel shades. Such a price is very reasonable. No doubt the fabric is made from carbonised merino shoddy, which enables it to be described as all-wool fabric. It used to be understood that an all-wool fabric was made from virgin wool, but nowadays this is not necessarily always the ease. A fabric made from carbonised shoddy cannot be condemned as not being made of wool, but it cannot have the wearing capacity or even the handle and appearance of cloth made from virgin wool. It would be gross waste if the products of the worsted manufacturing section of the industry were not turned to good account. By the use of noils, wastes, mungo, and shoddy many thousands of people are provided with much better clothing than they would get if they were compelled to buy fabrics made from virgin wool. Suits and garments would have to last much longer, and there would be more shabbily dressed people to be seen. WHERE TRADE IS LOST.

At the same time it-is always a good thing to hear about developments in the placing of orders for better class fabrics. Cotton weft gaberdines are as popular as ever in the Far East. These are mostly made from 2-60's botany warp, coloured cotton weft being used to produce a shot effect in the piece. These cloths are practically waterproof, splendidly made, and look very smart when made up into garments. It is impossible to spin 2-60’s worsted warp out of anything below good 70'» tops, and this alone is a guarantee of quality and excellence. The cotton weft must also be spun from fine Egyptian cotton. The missing link in Bradford is the marked decline in the export of woollen and worsted fabrics to Japan. A few years ago excellent business was done with that country, but Japanese manufacturers can now produce very good cloths, and the high duties on goods made in England and on the Continent-is keeping these out of the country. Japan has bought a very big weight of wool in Australia this season, this alone showing that progress is being made in manufacturing. Travellers recently returned from the Far East state that export houses in this country will never again do an important trade with Japan, except in specialties which the mills cannot produce.