THE GARDEN

Otago Witness, Issue 4031, 16 June 1931, Page 11

THE GARDEN

FOR THE WEEKjQ

NOTES

BY

D. TANNOCK,

A.H.R.H.S.

THE GREENHOUSE AND NURSERY Though we have not reached the shortest day I have already noted signs of growth, and where a number of bedding plants have to be grown and the glasshouse accommodation is limited it is necessary to begin to grow them on as soon as possible, so that the earliest may be out in the frames when the spring rush is on. Geraniums and pelargoniums, which were put in as cuttings some time ago, will now be rooted, and they can be potted in to three-inch pots, using a good light free soil to which some bone meal has been added. Pot firmly, and stand on a bench in the warm greenhouse, until the roots take to the new soil. Later on they can be potted into five-inch pots, but it saves space and is more satisfactory when they are potted into small pots first. Put in chrysanthemum cuttings, bring in potted or boxed bulbs for forcing, prune climbers, and wash and clean the greenhouses on wet days. THE FLOWER GARDEN Plant roses and all kinds of ornamental trees and shrubs, prune ramblers, and all kinds of hardy trees and shrubs, and dig or fork over the borders. THE VEGETABLE AND FRUIT GARDEN Continue to prune fruit trees and bushes, and to clear off all spent crops. Clean the asparagus bed, give a good mulching of about two inches of well rotted cow or stable manure, and cover this with about two inches of clean soil. Trim up the bed, clean and slightly fork the alleyways, but do not throw the weedy soil on the bed. Salt 'is useful for topdressing established beds, but it is better to put it on in the spring when growth commences.

SHELTER Shelter in some form or another is most important in New Zealand gardens. With it we can grow a great many kinds of plants; without it our choice is limited. Many plants of a subtropical character can be grown against a wall or fence, or in the shelter of a hedge, which would perish in the open, and plants with large leaves, though perfectly hardy, are torn to shreds in an exposed position. The most satisfactory shelter of all is a brick or stone wall, and this can be made quite ornamental by growing either fruiting or flowering plants on it. A paling fence is also quite sightly and useful, but a galvanised iron fence should be the last resort. However, better a galvanise! fence than no shelter at all. Fortunately there are some trees and shrubs which are perfectly hardy and capable of standing up to the coldest and strongest winds that blow, and these can be planted in to form either hedges or shelter belts. Very often it is necessary to provide some kind of temporary shelter until the hedges grow up sufficiently, and this can be done very cheaply and effectively by erecting brush or scrub fences. These should be supported by good stout posts let well into the ground; wires are stretched along and the manuka scruu placed between these. The wires are tied together at intervals of about two feet, and this serves to tighten them up and prevents the scrub from falling over to the sides, thus leaving gaps. A scrub or any kind of close fence should be removed as soon as the hedge grows high enough, for if left too long the hedge will die or become weakened through lack of light and air. On farms or in large gardens it is impossible to provide shelter by planting belts of shelter trees, mainly on the south side, which is the one from which .the coldest and most destructive winds come. These belts can vary in width from a single row’ to a chain, and are better planted with trees which retain their branches right down to the ground, thus preventing a ground draught which is always annoying. The three most satisfactory trees for shelter belts are Pinus radiata, Cupressus inacrocarpa, and Cupressus Law’soniana. These can be planted four feet apart in a single row, or six to nine feet in double rows, or strips a chain in width. Probably near the coast, where frosts are not too severe the macrocarpa is the most satisfactory of the three. It can stand a reasonable amount of.pruning and topping if necessary, and if allow’ed to go a bit before being pruned the branches can be used as stakes for light fences, for they last well in the ground. It is not necessary to go to any great trouble preparing the soil, and it is better to plant out yearling trees if well grown than large soft two year plants which wriggle about in the wind and suffer greater privations when planted than the smaller specimens. It is necessry to provide them with protecting fences to keep

away stock, and with netting if rabbits are troublesome. Small pits about nine to 12 inches square and from 12 to 18 inches deep can be made with the spade or grubber. The trees should be put m without twisting their roots, then tramped firmly. Firm planting is most mportant. Shelter belts of trees can be planted on the south and east sides, but it is better to leave the north and west open to allow the sun to get in to the house and garden or to plant so far back that they will not throw any shadows during the winter when the sun is low. If considered too sombre an evergreen shelter belt can be livened up by planting a row or more deciduous or flowering trees on the inside. HEDGES When preparing for planting hedges it is important to do so thoroughly, and if the soil is satisfactory a trench can be taken out about two feet wide and the same depth, breaking up the bottom with a pick. Put back the rough turf or weeds in the bottom, then a layer of soil and one of manure, finishing off the top with fine, clean soil. If the soil is sand or gravel or of a poor quality, it may be better to remove about half of that which is taken out of the trench, and to replace it with good loam obtained from somewhere else. The soil and manure is tramped as it is put in, and it shoultkbe possible to get it all back without mounding up very much. Put in the plants at the desired distance apart, and again tramp firmly, watering if the weather is very dry. There are two distinct types of plants used for and evergreen. The former are suitable for a position where we desire to let in the sun during the winter. One of the most satisfactory is the English beech, “ Fagus sylvatica.” It is really a large forest tree, but submits readily to being pruned down to from five to six feet, and once established is not difficult to maintain. It is not readily attacked by blights, and if clipped once a year is. quite neat and tidy. The hornbeam, “ Carpinus betulus,” also makes a very fine deciduous hedge not unike the beech in appearance, and requiring the same treatment. Both the beech and hornbeam can be planted at from 24 inches to 30 inches apart. The silver birch “ Betula alba,” is a quicker grower than either beech or hornbeam, and soon runs up to a hedge from eight feet to 10 feet high. It submits readily to pruning, does not harbour blights, and can be planted at from two to three feet apart.

The common barberry, Berberis vulgaris, is sometimes used as a hedge, but I would not recommend it. The same applies to the thorn, which is quite out of date as a deciduous hedge for a garden. There is a long list of evergreen shrubs and trees suitable for forming hedges, and if there is plenty of room and a high shelter is desired either Cupressus Lawsoniana or Cupressus macrocarpa can be used. They are both quick growers, and make excellent hedges from 12 feet to 15 feet in height. They are not so suitable for low hedges, and should be planted at from 2| feet to 3 feet apart. The holly is by far the most satisfactory hedge where it will thrive, and is not such a slow grower if liberally manured and regularly weeded and cultivated. A holly hedge should be allowed to grow to nearly its full height before clipping the top, but the sides should be kept clipped in from the very beginning. A narrow hedge well furnished is every bit as effective as a wide one and much easier to keep clipped. Holly can be planted about two feet apart. Near the sea and in wet districts where holly would not thrive the white escallonia, and if this is done immediately after flowering it will continue to flower regularly. The red escallonia is also used, but it is not so upright in growth or so satisfactory. Olearia Forsteri has been extensively used as a hedge in many seaside towns, and its bright, glossy, green crinkly leaves always look cheerful. At one time it was badly attacked by a midge, but if clipped ’after the insects lay their eggs (about the end of the year) the new growth is clean and healthy. It can be planted at from 20 inches to 24 inches apart, and must be well drained. Olearia stellulata (Eurybia) is a very fast growing hedge and if not cut back too hard is very pretty when covered with its white, starry flowers. Olearia Traversii is a strong and quick grower very suitable for the seaside, where it will grow in almost pure sand. It is rather open, but makes a good wind break and is free of disease. It can be planted at from 2J feet to 3 feet apart. Coprosma Baueri (Taupata) makes an ideal low hedge for the seaside, its bright, shining green leaves being very hardy, and its growth compact. Elaegnus japonieus makes a quick growing hedge suitable for planting under trees or a semi-shaded place. It is extensively planted in the north, but is also quite hardy with us. Abelia floribunda makes an excellent flowering hedge, and is suitable for the background of a flower border. Privet is extensively planted in dry, sunny districts, where it appears to thrive better than anything else. The oval-leaved kind is

the most suitable. Viburnum tinus makes an excellent and novel dividing hedge, and when trimmed immediately after flowering it will send out new growths which wil] flower during late winter and spring. Lonicera nitids, a neat little honeysuckle from China, makes a fine dwarf hedge. It has shining box-like foliage, grows quickly, and can be propagated readily by means of cuttings. The box is also a useful plant for a dwarf dividing hedge, which is limited to a height of about 3 feet. Boxthorn (Lyeium horridum) makes a good farm hedge near the coast, and when established it certainly will keep stock either out or in. I should not forget the yew, which is extensively used, as a dividing hedge in England, but is not very popular out here. The totara when trimmed regularly makes a good substitute. Several of ' the roses make good hedges—Sunny South for a fairly tall and Orleans for a dwarf one, with ramblers and sweet briars for covering a wire fence.