IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 4028, 26 May 1931, Page 60

IN FASHION’S REALM.

UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES., By Alarguerite. Present-day fashions are kind to the older woman and to those of out-siza figure. The lengthened skirt without doubt is most flattering, and manj* modes show' softening cross-over lines and graceful draperies. The dress with cross-over front forming a deep “ V ’’-shaped opening to the bodice and falling from the hip with low flare is most becoming to plump figures. There is, however, a good dear of difference in the general effect to suit the individual figure. Some models show no waist line, others a low' waistline. The dress that drapes over to one hip ia a general favourite with out-size figures. Long bodices with skirts attached to a deep band are effective and are really slimming in effect.

The rich satins and chiffon velvets that are so much used are especially suitable for the older woman, with the alwayslovely touch of lace. It is the dressy afternoon dress that looks most charming. There, is a choice of beautiful new materials—soft uncrushable wool crepes, silk marocains. and similar materials that are often combined with taffeta and dull satin and delicate lace. For the smart yet practical tailor-made suits and coatfrocks soft cloth and the new light-weight tweeds may be Worn by the plump w'oman provided they display no checks or distinct patterns. The flecked and nubbed snowflake tweeds in pretty novel tones of grey, brown, beige, and black flecked with blue, green, yellow', and white, with trimmings of tabs and flat buttons, are suitable.

The wrap completes the effect —the wrap which the smart woman never forgets to wear. The coat of face cloth, fur trimmed, is much to be preferred to the all-fur coat. The full length with a well-wrapped front is most becoming, though with an ensemble the three-quarter-length coat is worn. Fur collars are most flattering, and there never has been a fur season to equal this one. With a luxurious fur collar, the revers of the cloth will be becoming to the plump figure. The coat may be lavishly fur trimmed if the wearer is not too plump. The browns, navy blue, and black arc combined most effectively with brown fur, black caracul, or Persian lamb.

This illustrates a smart afternoon frock in a silk and wool mixture crepe for the mature figure. The front of the bodice ia slightly pouched to a low' waistline, the belt is at the back, and the narrow' roll collar of georgette ends in a scarf at tho

other side. The sleeves are finished with, georgette puffs to match. Note that the skirt is well flared at the hemline. A prune shade of crepe with deep cream or rose pink georgette or navy marocain and biscuit-shade georgette are suggested colour schemes. s

However cleverly cut the outer garments. the plump woman must be assured that the foundation garments are perfect too. Shetland wool princess slips are both pretty and cosy for dressy frocks, but a slip of fine wool stockinette will be found useful for everyday wear when the weather is very cold. The material is obtainable in many widths, qualities, and colours, and has the advantage of being quickly “ run up.” A practical design is in two pieces, shaped to the figure at the side seams, with a “ V ” or “ U ’’-shaped neckline and arrow shoulders. A join on each shoulder makes the fit more trim and enables a wide width to be used economically. They are made in a tailored style, without trimming. Bind neck and armholes with matching or contrasting silk bias binding, after having put a running thread of cotton on the edges to be bound to keep them from stretching. It is most essential to keep the edges firm for the binding in order to obtain a perfect fit. These stockinette petticoats are also suitable for children when extra warmth is necessary. * ¥ ¥ An adaptable frock for dressy occasions I saw was of black silk crepe. It had a bodice cut with a deep pointed neckline in front and back, and Magyar shoulders that formed very short sleeves—just caps to the tops of the arms. The skirt was double, each tier being flared so that it had the effect of a tunic, and joined the bodice without fullness under a buckled belt. For afternoon it could be worn with a long-sleeved blouse of georgette, while for evening it would be minus the blouse, and worn with a decorative girdle or a diamante motif atached with a tiny safety pin. New and chic ! ¥ ¥ ¥ Of brown flecked tweed, this frock is specially designed for out-size figures. The front and jabots are of white wool crepe. The cuffs are to match. The flared skirt

is mounted to a hip yoke. Velvet may be used for this frock if preferred—on a background of mole grey a small smudged flower pattern. The vest and jabots arc of cream silk crepe. ¥ . ¥ ¥ Semi-evening frocks with sleeves are preferred by many women. When sleeves are worn they take on very varied shapes and show many novel forms of trimming. One model will be fitted closely to nearly the wrist, where an immensely wide cuff will b e attached to fall back gracefully -when the arm is raised and display the many glittering bracelets now worn. Another w'ide sleeve has the front seam unjoined to above the elbow, and falls open with cape-like effect to show a pretty lining. Close-fitting-lace sleeves puckered from wrist to elbow and with mitten cuffs are smart on lace and silk frocks. Another fitting sleeve on a black lace frock has bands of diamante round the wrist and at distances of an inch or two to the elbow, giving the effect of bracelets over the sleeve. Another model has scalloped pieces like a fish fin joined in with the back seam that gradually narrows from about five inches wide at the top to about two at the wrist. On some evening frocks for the younger woman a small puffed sleeve is set to a separate band, leaving the shoulder uncovered. The effect is very charming on youthful georgette or tulle frocks.

There are many lovely fabrics, both silk and woollen, suitable for making up this attractive frock intended for the plump and out-size figure. The bodice is arranged with the popular bolero fronts attached to the back at shoulder and side

seams, the edges being piped. The circular-cut cuffs are also piped. The skirt has a plain and diagonally shaped upper part, which is very slimming in effect. The lower part of the skirt is well flared. Navy blue or a dark wine shade of wool fabric is suggested. ¥ ¥ ¥ A number of smart but quite practical frocks for afternoon wear are trimmed

with fur instead of the stitched straps so frequently seen on frocks of tweed, face cloth, or other fine woollens. Bands of fur edge the sleeves and the neckline, and frequently take the place of the leather belt. The fur used is the flatter kind, such as Astrakhan, caracul, or leopard. On some dressy models straps of marabout take the place of fur with very good effect. Many furs that in their natural colour are fawn or brown are dyed black. On the other hand, there are many white furs to be seen, as the vogue for black and white in fur will continue during the winter months. Even a touch of white fur on a black ensemble will give an air of elegance.

The Russian influence is expressed in this Cossack turban of black felt with the front motif of gold and silver inlaid kid. A striking model for a tall woman, it is the right type of hat to wear with the

Russian tunic frock. The other picture illustrates the new medium-heel shoe. Of black kid with grey kid trimming, strap, and small grey enamel buckle, it is a smart shoe for those who prefer a strap shoe. ¥ ¥ ¥ A popular fashion is the neat tailormade suit, or even a flannel frock of some pretty dark colour fastened to the neck and finished with lingerie collar and cuffs. The popularity of beads has made some young women find some other decorative touch of colour for their dark frock or suit, and what more suitable at this time of the year than real violets—a bunch of fresh violets ? But it may be an expensive fashion, so artificial violets are also worn, and although not as nice as the real flowers they are a change to the bead necklace, unless the stones are real.