FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

Otago Witness, Issue 2894, 1 September 1909, Page 74

FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

(From Our Own Correspondent.) July 16, 1909. — The Sleeveless Coat.— Many sleeveless , chafes are worn, and usually only the thinnest material ie used in their construction. One in mauve net, J whose quality was nearly ac fine as tulle, | wae bordered with a folS of embroidered ] satin, and vorn over a crepe dress of simi- • lar colour. Or perhaps «uch a. coat will J be worn made of blacky in its lightest and • most gossamer form, carried out in chiffon ■ or net or tulle, with incrustations, of gleam- ' ing black jet. Such a coat is intended j to accompany a dress of white or colour. A good deal of jet i 6 introduced, weighting the front pane so as to make them fall in straight lines, while graceful^ folds in the back are held together with similar sparkling ornaments. The idea lends variety to the already innumerable ways of drag-gang in that inevitable "touch" of black. Such coals are for the most part sleeveless. Even on "tub" frocks for the seaside black buttons and strappings cannot be done without, such "touches" of black, in satin for the most pait, being introduced on to the • coloured linen and crash frock 6, while if there is a coat its waistcoat wiH probably b© of black satin as well as its revers. Lon^ lines of black satin buttons find place down the left side of ekirts. Again, braces of black satin cross the shoulders on a coloured linen dress, and fact-en on to the corselet with flat bows, wlircli are finished with fluttering ends, all of the black satin. At an evening function in Paris this week a pale pink eatin gown was veiled with a transparent mantle of black silk net that was edged all round with narrow bands of 6able. The effect was pleasing, and the probabilities are that during the comingautumn and winter evening dresses of pale colours will be shrouded with transparent mantles of black sii'k net. If these coats have slee^es the latter are made nearly , as long again a? necessary, and wihen the coat is put on the extra length is pushed up tbe arm, so that the material looks . as if it had "been draped there. This is j the concertina type of sleeve, and is 0113 o* the latest of the "freak" types. ( — The '"Fishwife" in Paris. — < According to the latent informat'on from i France tho '"fishwife" drapfu-ios are ac-hie\- ; < incr a \eiituble triumph in Paris, rather ' s

rjttnexpeciedjy so.. These *f<f infa-odtieecF ?ft i j & variety of 'different ways, not the" leaßfc » | piquant ~ of wljjoh is the Ajxsb. oi- spotted. '- j foulard, with lawn or tace turnover collar* 1 j buttoned up at the baojc as far as tfce waisf^ ' j and girdled with Q fringed ribboti Qwbi ' j hanging in long ends over the dr«pery\ Be* i i neath is tihe draped skirt put intQ deeti j folds, while tfie sleeves are of elbow length . turned back with lace oj; kiwn cuffs, and i the" whole effect is that of a little drees" <jf tihe eighties, wjth t the eseerfUaJlv Kaodertt t feature to 'relieve it, Plain ana cbeckexj , inateria]s are said to be very Sreeiy used in Paris for these frocks, some o| tihe ; princess examples with "ftsljwife'* drapery ' being oarried out very originally in plairt - blue serge, wifh kilte of blue And white foulard, and a square emipiecemenfc of ' feame introduced at the neck awkmjrtlinin& the little tucked vest. " . < Far lese pleasing is the eoheai& irEereb& folds of drapery are lightly arranged 7 above! , the knees, and then bundled; into * kn'ofe ,}, } behind, where' they are secured- with a j large buckle as if they had been 'drawn up ! ' to show_ tihe embroidered tablier which findW a prominent place in the front of the; ettrtt Sotae of these Princess robes are fastened} - . -down one -side instead of at the back, w\& a series of tiny buttons, which are~arra%e<]r )" in -sets of three. - -'"*' ' _ . Pleated* skirts in some Yotm afe" filfflj" liked. The material is always *ihin>— silk, | «auze, zephyr, etc. Sotaetimea • the pleats are stitched down over the. hips,- - the line ' «?£ «tikßijng forming a diagonat point carried back to front on either eide.The backs of the skirts are not so tightfitting as to be dragged across the figure, , and a>t the sides and front the up-to-date skirt falls in natural folds to the hem. The corselet skirt is much worn, generally accompanied by a' blouse of lace, the tatter 1 finished -with braces of moire carried across . the shoulders and holding the upper parfc jof the corselet in position. Some of the . corselets rise high in, a point in Front, but finish in a straight line across- the back. ! Another skirt is made very tight and- plain 1 | to just -above the knees, andi then a full and" deep frill continues its length to the feetn Rather curious are the models whose bodice and upper 6ikirt are cut in one and em* broidered almost all over, <fche lower portion being of different material of similar tone. A jrrey dress, for instance, had th<. j upper half of eilk and the lower part of closely-pleated voile, which formed the quite short-looking skirt Skirts of sensible walk- | ing length are, by the way, growing daily jin popularity None of them touch the ground. — New Pointed Corsage. — There is a new pointed corsage which appears io be appealing to those Hrho • are responsible for late models. This coinage hac something the effect of, an imnTen#e{r ..widcl "Swiss ijeTt, describing a 'sharp , jx>mt over •the jupe, while it is cut straight ' across the" l bust where it meets the gathered' under/ ■ bodice. Wh«ce the dress- is of a spotted or -, fancy, /material this deep emplacement is ' ulualLy. mad« of plain stuff, -and * a -curious and somewhat bizarre 'effect jpasv pro&ucecl .' in the"-j case-' , of- a- foulard' dresg in' spotted/ Wue-and ! white '-whcee pointed; eorsago wrai-. • of fine blue cloth moulded smoothly over ' the hips, bust and waist, and fastened down. , on one side with a serried ro'w^ of buttons made of blue velvet. — The Cuirass. — Tho euiras6 style of gown has brought about a vogue fforr r an effective trimmimr made of net covered with embroidery and other materials, A favourite drees for a girl is in the shape of a fitted cuirass, which extends to the hips and terminates in a knife-pleated skirt. The former is made of coarse net covered with a flat embroidery of silk soutache, and the Jatter is of mcssaline, with a scroll of the soutacheoutlining tjio top of the hem. The deconetage is outlined with a flat band of j Valenciennes laoe, or a tucker of fine white net run through with a coloux*ed ribbon. , This frock is fastened down ifoe back with < lacs buttons. I — Some Hats. — Some of the new lingerie hats are fashioned of frill upon frill of accordionpleated lawn edged with lace and drooping from the top of the crown to the brim, thus forming the entire covering of the hat. Tho only trimming consists of a snowy pompom, of Valenciennes lace, or a loose cluster o£ . Shirley poppies in many shades, the pale silken petals relieved with, centres of black jet. Cool and useful and, light are the * shapes covered .with Shantung, silk. The silk is finely stitched, a*id the haf is -simply I but picturesquely trimmed with a draped •- , scarf of soft eilk, which is brought down. I low at the back and tied in a close' bow- s i without -ends. Worn at a favourite 'angle, j the Shaiitaung hat, curves deeply on on® : side, almost hiding the -wearer's face. Simi- ! lar seaside and river hats are made of j batiste, in almost any colour, and in. white , spotted muslin, trimmed with clusters of rather bright pink roses, and finished with bands and Lowe of black velvet ribbon. Gigantic bows of lace of fine quality have their spreading loops stiffened with invisible wires ; then they are used by milliners. Sometimes the whole of the higih crown of the shape, as well as part of the brim, is made in transparent lace- to match the bow, and for trimmings of this kind some of the French milliners are using silk Spanish lace, both in ecru and in black, chosen in ligihfc designs and of fine quality. Such a bow i looks well stretched unon a hat- of softly- ' coloured Tagel straw, whose brim, underneath may be of black aerophone- closely pleated. Huge bows of ribbon, ramilnrly treated are going to be worn, arid . vawqty^ : will be given by the bundles of wheat-ears, oate, or barley, mounted with long spikea and surrounded by wild flowers and field grasses. Some of the wheat-ears are made | in an ejtaefc imibition of -fcli» natural eont, but they are more often, made of white I gauze or muslin, and trimmed wi+h the ; ! flowers made of the same material. Spotted" muslin lilies and tulips and roses are all to • be had. They are not at all fascinating. Quite the latest fashionable shape of hafc » the Cavalier, with brim turned up Sharply - at one side and perhaps slightly' curved \ upward on the other, side, as well. .A great -" deal depends upon the little deft manipula« . tion of the brim, this making all the. dEffer j * ence in the world between a Cavalier ha*. , thaij ."becomes its wearer and one that does ' not. Fine whito chip is usually the- foundation. Its trimming- consists of a deep l _ band of velvet ribbon draped round the crown and tied in front in a bow of ex- - ceeding smartness. More important-looking? are those v.-l < *■ 111 1 irn-'iiii - con«i=ite of a mass of plums:.' -|-i'jiii;' out li, >>'l direction?, and riein-- •- a 4, _m h'. gi.t.