THE GARDEN.

Otago Witness, Issue 2894, 25 August 1909, Page 10

THE GARDEN.

OPERATIONS FOR THE WEEK. FLOWER GARDEN.— Many of -the more hardy annuals may be sown in the op«a ground towards the end of this nionlih. Should, however, the weather set in wet or frosty it is better to -xereise a little patience, or failure will result. Nothing 1 is gained by sowing too early, as the growth of young seedlings i 9 ,always more satisfactory when the Boil is warm and dry. Dutch bulbs are now beginning to throw up 4heir flower spikes, and careful attention must be paid to traps for slugs, as they are particularly fond of hyaciniibs, and soon spoil a number in the young state. Divide •ad r«pla<nt bordera of violets, choosing young, well-rooted runners for the purpose. All box borders should be finished at once, and where any are to be planted now it will be necessary to water frequently during tk» sunmer, as they will not be established belcre the dry weather sets in. Late-plain ted lost* should be pruned, cutting back to wiiJdn a. few eyes of the last season's groirth. Amateurs often fail in -not pruning hard enough, but H fine blooms are needed you must cut low. Those fine decorative plants — camellias — should be more free'y planted out than is the case. Most of '.he varieties do far better planted out in the borders than they generally do if kep* in pots. They are perfectly hardy, and apart from their lovely blooms the plants themselves as shrubs are very ornamental, as they grow so mucli more vigorously than under not culture. They can hlbo be out back freely and kept to any size, and if strong-established plants are procured now and planted out during the present or succeeding month they will soon become established. KITCHEN GARDEN.— A hot bed should b) made up with some fresh stable* manure, ■nt after allowing it to stand for a few dajrf so that part of the strong heat can paa* off, a few prepared boxes should be filled with a light soil, in which a sowing of celery ox tomato should be made, and placed upon the top of the bed. A little finely-sifted soil should coyer the seed and a glazed sash' to cover over the whole. If the latter is not available a covering of palings placed close together will be found to answer the purpose equally as well, providing that ihef« are removed as soon as 4 be seed 3 appear above ground, when they siould ba uncovered all day, but must beprotected at night for some time to come. Etrly-sown tomatoes must be pricked out inio boxes or pets, allowing each plant plenty of room to develop, as all the advantage of showing these seeds early ia lost if 'llie plant*, are crowded together. After pricing out they will require to be kept warm fcr a few days, after which they •ihould l>c fu.'ly exoc&ed to the sun and air during warm days, covering up again at night. Herbs of all kinds may be planted out during the present month. Where 'old plants are growing they should be taken ud and divided, as young and vigorous plants give th<s best results. Parsley, sage, and marjoram are best raised from seed at this time of the year. Potato-planting should new be general in the garden, for if planted now the pt'atoes sliould run scarcely any risk fron? bsing damaged by spring fronts unless they continue very late. Lettuces, onions, radish, etc,, should be sown in succession for salading. The first-named should be planted out in prepared beds at regular intervals in order to keap up the supply, planting a few at each planting rather than planting out a large number at longer intervals, in which case a «reat number are cften spoiled by running to seed before they can be used. Cabbage and cauliflower, as soon as large enough, should be heeled up. Th«y should be kept advancing by keeping She surface free from weeds and iaose, 9o *s to admit the air and warmth of the aun to the roots. FRUIT GARDEN.— Planting for the seaBon of all kinds -of fruit sihould be completed as qnickly as possible now, for with th« month of September the growth of all kinds of treas, except, perfiaps, apples, is quite aoti.'e, and when planted thus late in the Mason, in the event of a dry season the trees cannot be expected to make a satisfactory growth, unless mulching and watering are resorted to. Trees which have been planted a few weeks should now have a elight cutting back. Any small fruits not

yet pruned should Teoeive immediate attention, and the borders or beds in which they are growing should be cleaned off, manure given, and properly dug witihout injury to the roots. Strawberry beds should be kepi j perfectly free from weeds, and -the hoe frequently used between the xows to keep the Boil in an open, healthy condition. Grafting of stone" fruits should xecerre the first attention, as these star' into growth early. The grafts should be straight,- healthy, clean-grown shoots of last year. They may be from Bin to lOin long. There are many ( ways of grafting, but two of them axe xaore easily done than some of the other ways. One of these is termed "saddle grafting," and is practised when the stock is of moderate dimensions. If the stock and graft — or, more appropriately speakings the scion — are of the same thickness the stock is cut linto the form of an A-. and slit the ociocn up the middle, so adapted that it will be seated across or xide upon the former. Let | the bark of each fit as closely together as possible; bind the two closely with worsted, then cover them up with a piece of two-parts clay and one of .cow manure well mixed together. Press and squeeze this on till it adheres firmly, a« it must retain the moisture about the cut parts, and this should Temam on till growth bas commenced, When it may be left till it tails off. Do not let any shoots grow on the stem, and! if tihe weather is very drj before growth Wgins moisten the clay. This foxm of grafting is very suitable for young seedling "trees. When the trees are large with many branches cut all these off to Gin ox Bin from the main stem, then graft on to each of tfhe steins. The kind of grafting to practice in this -case, is called crown- or lind-grafting. Cut the lowor end of iha graft in a sloping direction. Slit down the old baxk on* the cut stem 2in or \so from" the top. Open it a little on each side. Insert the thin end of the graft, and bandage and clay it over. If the stems are large two or three grafts may be put on each; four are often introduced. This form of grafting is much, practi&sd in orchards. Everything should be done with a very sharp knife. The lower buds should be carefully cut from each graft so far as the clay will coyer. From -the end of August is a suitable time for grafting, as the sap is Tisdng andt the . bark in a condition to facilitate uniting. ! GEBEXHOUSE AND FBAMES.— As growth extends more room must be given to all scft-wooded plants to admit of a free circulation of air about them. Pelargoniums must be stopped, as the shoots extend, to keep the plants dwarf and bushy. Plants of cineraria and calceolaria, when the pots i of the early-flowering batob are becoming j full of xoots, should be supplied 1 with liquid manure svery other watering. Petunias, heliotrope, etc., should now be gradually hardened off to fit them for planting out durin«- September. Ventilation will need careful attention, as no hard-and-fast rule can be laid down during the next few i months, but on all favourable days admit ais freely. , „ THE VINERY.— If not already done all vines should be pruned at onoe. When the pruning is left until the sap begins to move the vines suffer severely from bleeding.