THE TRAVELLER.

Otago Witness, Issue 2892, 18 August 1909, Page 81

THE TRAVELLER.

A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD.

By Db Sioel Rotjsh.

(Special to the- Gtago Witness )

Of the several old capitals of Japan iK>ne is richer in historical interest than the ancient and aristocratic city of Kyoto. Here tie royal family resided for over a thousand years, and drew to Kyoto many monuments of the religion, art, architecture, and literature of the day. Kyoto is the least EuTopeanised of any of the larger cities of Japan, and still preserves many of the strange and quaint customs of the age of feudalism and chivalry Thither w« travelled over the 330 miles of the Tokaado railroad from Tokyo, the Eastern and modern capital of New Japan. The Tokaido road — owned and operated by the Imperial Government and constructed by a native engineer educated at the famous Rensselasr Polytechnic Institute at Troy, N.Y. — leads through many stretches of picturesque and Deautiful scenery. For several hour's the famous Fuji, the sacred mountain of all Japan, is more or less constantly in sight, whi-eh, with the numerous vistas one obtains of the sea, its rtfjzged shores and pine-clad isles, renders the journey on a bright day one of much variety and interest. The road is of the narrow, or metre, gauge type, which, with the small passenger .coaches with their longitudi-nally-arranged seats, leaves much to be desired in the way of the creature comforts of travel. Especially are these low seats uninviting to the- long-legged foreigner, who must assume, when seated, a figure somewhat resembling the zig-zag outline of a folding hat rack.

— Study in Native Character. —

In our coach, there were only three foreigners out of the 45 or 50 passengers aboard, and not the" least interesting feature of the 12 hours' journey was a study of tne native character while en route. With but few exceptions, men, women, and children wore native drees. Most of them carried a shawl or steamer rug, which they spread over the seats, upon which, after slipping off their clogs, they squatted Japanese fashion, and in this position passed most of the journey. The almost universal sitting posture of the Japanese is most uncomfortable when assumed' by a foreigner. The natives first kneel, then with the vamp of the foot flat against the floor, the toes turning slightly in, they settle their 'bodies back on heels and forelegs, and in this position remain for hours at a time. To one unaccustomed to sitting in this cramped manner a trial of five minutes will result in a stiffness and paralysis of the feet and legs that proves most disagreeable and painful Yet this is the universal resting posture for all Japanese, from the child of three to the honourable elders, whether at home, # in shop, or on the road.

So in looking down the aisle of a railway coach one sees not consecutive pairs of feet booted and of varying sizes and conditions, but a windrow of dogs and sandals, while perched upon the eeats a line of squatting figures is seen not unlike a row of seated Ruddhas one observes in many of the Japanese temples.

— Drinking and Eating. —

No sooner does a company of Japanese travellers get comfortably settled vhan they begin their one grand passion of drinking and eating, the former usually ■tea, though, the fake gourd or flask is much in evidence, and the latter rice, dried fish, pickles and chutney, together with soy and other native condiments. Teapots and - little boxes of provisions were brought, in at nearly every station, which converted the coach into a continuous performance diner from Tokyo to Kyoto. Bach box of pcorisiSns contained a. pair of chop sticks with which the food 1 wae conveyed to the mouth. The teapots and cups were carried along the journey, till empty, when they would be removed by the porter and replaced by a fresh supply. The little wooden boxes of provisions when emptied were thrown into the aisle, which, with the orange yeel, banana skins, and other remains of the perpetual feast would have completely blockaded the passage ere half the jour-

ney, was over had not the porter, with brush and pan, kept busily at work removing the debris. — Japan's Railroads. — There are in Japan to-day over 5000 miles of railroad, the rolling stock and J other equipment of which represents an investment of many millions oJ yen. As yet foreign-built locomotives are used, the most of them coming from England or America. The check- system of the latter country is in general' nee, which ] 'greathly simplifies the local baggage question. Fares are divided into first, second, and third clashes, the rate being respectively 3 sen, 2 .©en, and l«en a mile. Most ! well-to-do natives and many foreigners travel second class, as the difference in i the accommodation is merely nominal, : often the two classes occupying the op- | posite ends of the same coach. It -will i thus s>e seen that the cost of railroad travel in Japan is not exorbitant. On I the main lines the night trains are provided with American Pullman cars, where an additional "■charge is made for their use, though, unlike the bedless but free Indian sleepers, the 'bedding in Japan is furnished by the company. | The railroads of Japan, more especially the two or thxee trunk lines, are fairly good, though often rough. The express trains make an average speed of ! about 30 miles an horn, but the local trains are very slow and tedious. All trains in Japan seem to be crowded. On one occasion we were compelled to ride I for several hours standing on the outside platform, even this usually prohibited [ spaca being crowded to the limit This applies also to the suburban and city train and. nonse caoss, the crush here often beine allowed to encroach upon the danger point. If patronage is any criterion the transportation companies of Japan are ■doing a lucrative business, but, like their American patterns, often at the discomfort and peril of their patrons. Besides the Tailroads and street cars there are in ' Japar nearly 200,000 rickshaws, 28,000 ox?A* t 6 ' 0 ? 0 *wukl-«u*«, and about XUU,OOO carnages and waggons, so that it' will be seen things keep a-moving in the '> stirring little -empire of the Mikado. — Japan's Marine Development. But in no department of public utili- \ ties Ims greater progress been made than '■ m Japan s marine development. Japan proved the metal of her navy by prac- ' tical experience Fome years a^o, and to- ! , day her merchant marine is fast becoming an important factor in shipping throughout the whole of the East The white fl a g w ith its central disc of red is now seen at all times i n the harbours of China, India, Australia, the Philippines, ; and many of the western ports of the United States and South America. At least the peaceful supremacy of tlie Pacific would seem to belong to the Mikado,^ Dut whether this supremacy would hold good or not if applied to "Japan's naval strength remains to be seen, if a practical test ever occurs— « not impossible event— the repittation of the ' opposing navy will depend upon the ' • policy of the country to which it belongs. ; If short-sighted and dominated by those ' penny wise and pound foolish " poli- ' ticians whose sole object seems to be to ' hamper all legislation looking towards the ' building and maintaining of a navy com- i mensuTate with the size, dignity, and importance of their country, then the ; result of such a test must be disastrous. I Should a wiser policy — a. policy fully ' alive to the possibilities ot the future— ' prevail, then that navy will come out of such a possible struggle with glory enough a.nd to spare, for. given the equipment, the men behind the gnus will not be ' found wanting in courage, in patriotism, ' ■' and in marksmanship. 1

— Japan's Unwarranted Confidence. —

With all the rapid strides that have been made by Japan in the purpuit of the arts of peace as well as the success that has attended her ventures in' war it is but natural that she .should be smitten with an ov-erwaenincr sense of her own importance. Especially eince the close ot the Russian war has this perhaps unwarranted confidence in her own invincible prowess been particularly noticeable. Like the small boy who has unerpect&dly whipped the bully of the school he himself becomes impressed with his own importance to such an exten 1 ' that he gradually assumes an attitude towards his fellows not unlike that previously maintained by his vanquished foe. Not until

he in turn meets his equal is he brought to a realisation of the other's rights, and learns to vouchsafe to them proper consideration and respect The vanity of the " little brown man " vaunteth itself abroad ever as the email boy, and " lest we forget," in these times fraught with many a warlike possibility, is a motto worthy of our most careful and vigilant attention.

But whatever may be the secret ambition of Nippon she invariably presents to the outside world her suavest manners and most considerate demeanour. This personal interest in the foreigner is particularly noticeable in her hostelries and rest houses. Whether it be the temporary shack of a tea house, found along all roads located to command some pleasing view, where the pedestrian may rest, enjoy the prospect and sip a cup of the national beverage, or in the modem up-to-date European hotels, one's wants are anticipated and met with a promptness and despatch that proves most pleasing to the weary guest. At Kyoto especiaJ 1 y was our stay rendered most agreeable. Oui Japanase-managed hotel stood halfway up one of the encircling suburban hills near several of the sylvan-surrounded tsmples for which the ancient capital is celebrated.

—The City of Kyoto.—

The city of Kyoto, with its Imperial Palace, its extensive gardens, its residences of the Daimios, the Shoguns, and Samurai, lies in a natural amphitheatre formed by picturesquely wooded declivities. Unlike most native cities it is laid out regularly by streets running from, north to south and from east to west. Along these thoroughfares myriads oi paper lanterns are hung, which* with the deepening twilight, gradually transforms the floor of the natural amphitheatre into thousands of soft light-lined squares, giving rise to the local legend that here the mountain giants congregate when the city is fast asleep, and using the checker board thus formed pass the waning night in pursuit of their favourite game. Kyoto is pre-eminently a place of temples and tea houses, for, like most inland Japanese cities, it is greatly addicted to '••eligion and rest. Cheek by jowl with the most noted shrines are located the most celebrated tea-houses, and a visit to the one usually includes a stop at -the other. By this arrangement both the spiritual and the temporal being may be conveniently propitiated.

— Great Nature Worshippers. —

The intimate association of religion and Nature is observed everywhere in Japan, for the Japanese are unquestionably the greatest Nature worshippers of aU nations. This love of Nature- makes itself manifest very early in life. Much of the child's life is spent in the open. It may be only in a little garden at tthe rear of the home, or even in the street, which one finds crowded from morning till night with these animated Japanese dolls in bright, kimonos and wooden clogs ; but they are out of doors just the same, and soon learn to love the azure sky, the bright sunlight, and the soft, floating clouds. , The flowering potted plant, the dwarf trees, the odd-shaped stone found in sbop^ in market, or bazaar, early attracts tie baby's attention, and pToves a source of much interest to him, for his little beady eyes regard these specimens of Nature with wonder and admiration for hours at a time.

But most Japanese homes are within easy Teach of some park, sylvan shrine, or wooded dell, and here the children — and it seems half of the population of Japan consists of children — spend much, of their time. Tied on the backs of the older children, the little ones are thus carried all day long. Sometimes beneath the fold of a sister's kimono, at other times only held in position by a strap of doth that encircles both the body of the child and that of its elde-r, the little Japanese baby sleeps or watches over the shoulder of his bearer the flowers, the birds, ihe little lake with its shining gold fish, and even takes an interest in the games in which the little mothers while away the bright summer day. It is quite wonderful to fee these elder children — for boys as well as giils take care of the younger members of the family — engaging in such game', as "tag," "blind man's buff." and even rope skipping, all the while maintaining on their backs with apparent eas-e and perfect poise the little black-headed baby. with its dirty little nose and shallow^set, beady, little eyes.

Thus early .n life the .nve of the twisted .pine, the stately cryptomeria, the graceful bamboo, the cherry blossom, the lotus, the iris, and the wistaria is formed by the Japanese people — a love that lasts to their closing day&, and i<= gratified in many a picnic or excursion som" beautiful park, temple, waterfall, lake, or other «pot where Nature ha." lavished her choicest charms. On any fine day in and around the temples may be peen family groups or friendly Catherine eating, drinking, playing ganifes. or rompinjr away the pleasant hours of "the excursion, for the value of time means but little to the average Japanese.

— Japanese Wealth. —

The acquisition of wealth is as a rule looked down upon in Janan. the merchant always having belonred to the lowest and most unattractive clasp of society.

In thi* connection it may b-e of interest to mention that in 1905 only two men in all Ja^an paid an income tax on over 250.000 yen, and out of every 1000 inhabitants only feven per.^ons made 2700 a year. There is no gulf in Japan between poverty and affluence, as ex-President Grant once remarked, though as Mr Kure pertinently replied thi^ is nl-o true of the people who are scarcely able fo maintain an existence, and therefoie does not necessarily imply a de-irable condition.

— Time Reckoning. —

Some years ago the Fystem of reckoning time was changed to the n.odern Gregorian nomenclature, a change that resulted in some confusion, for the nume-

' Tons holidays, religious feasts, and na- j tional fetes all had to be changed — many times arbitrarily — to conform to the new J order oi things. The illiterate classes even yet are not entirely reconciled to the new departure, and in many oases, either ' through ignorance or a desire to par* i petuate established customs, persist A ' fixing and celebrating bhieir holidays according to the old regime. Others take | advantage of the dual system, and celebrate according to both calendars, thereby doubling the number of the greatly coveted opportunities to spend the 'day in eating and merrymaking." However, official Japan has set the pace, and it is only a question of time when the masses will meekly fall into line. Sunday, though i not included in unregenerate Japan as * holy day, still by common usage has grown to be quite generally observed as a holiday, and in most sections of the land it is .regarded as an occasion for long excursions into the country to spend the day quietly under the maples, cherry trees, and pines in feasting and friendly intercourse. — -Flower Festival. 1 — • Of course the most important of all holidays are the festivals relating to some favourite flower. One ( or more of these J occur in every month of the year, even ! bleak December having its floral shrine I in the shape of some hardy bloom that ' finds its habitat in some sheltered- .spot or > favoured nook. - j Of the more celebrated flower festivals may be mentioned those of the plum' ? ' the cherry, the wistaria, the lotus, ana the chrysanthemum. We have referred to the April feast of the cherry bloreoms; , that joyous occasion when the return oi ! spring is welcomed and inaugurated ,with j royal pomp and quaint conceit. Now the ' populace are crowning wistaria Queen ot the May. In front of my window, spreading out between the hotel and the city, | lies Maray-ama Park, a landscape garden ! including within its boundary many little i ponds, hillocks, streams, and ravines.! The' | special attraction of this park just now '■ is a mammoth arbor of wistaria in full • blow, anc 1 the mecoa of ill Kyoto. The ' Japanese train the wistaria over bamboo ' arbors, through which the white and ; purple blossoms hang in great flowery j stalactites measuring sometimes over 2ft in length. The arbor below my window is about 200 ft long and about 50ft wide. | Ten or 15 great twisted wistaria trunks , spring from the ground and spread their J flower-laden boughs out over the "arbor, j tfie under surface of which is one mass ot ; fluffy bloom, while a mat of delicate ] leaves nbove forms ' a delightfu 1 shad« for the holiday makers, who spread thew rugs within the perfumed bower; where they eat, drink, and view the favourite } flower of the season to their Heart's content. — Feast of the Flags. — [ In May, 'too, comes the boys' festival, ! jor feast of flags. The proximity of tba feast -of flags, which occurs according to i j the Gregorian reckoning on May 5, is \ j heralded ~by the -number of paper fish j I observed in every shop and bazaar, j These paper carp are painted all the ■ ! colours of the rainbow, and vary in size , from the tiny minnow to the overgrown j monster as big as a balloon. A bamboo j pole froir every dooryard displays tied to , its top one or more of these great fish, j into whose open moutlis the wind blows, I inflating their paper "bodies, so that ihe proportions are quite lifelike and «triking. ( These floating fish, bedecked in brilliant colours, lend quite a festive air to tiie whole city, and as the carp is strong > of I fin and able to make his way against _ the rapid currents these qualities axe supposed to be emulated by the youth who j would succeed against the currents ot . ! adversity. j The e-irls' festival, or feast of the dolls, \ occurs in Maich, and is an occasion fraught with much importance to every Japanp=e girl. During the two or three ( days this holiday lasts the shops are gay.^ with gorgeous dolls, and trade in this line is very brisk. Not only are new dolls , bought at this time, but the entire col- I lection of old favourites, which eneh little ; girl bespe stored during the remainder ' of the yea.r in one of the big fireproof i " go-dowxis " or warehouses seen .all ■ through the city, is brought home and j mad© the idol of the hour. These doll ■ treasures represent all sorts of celebrated personages, from the Empress down, and ( are dined and wined in true royal style : throughout the whole of the dolls' festi- ; val. —The Cherry Dance.— : We oka need to be in Kj'oto during; the month of the Myako Odoti, or cherry da.ace. and availed ourselves of the opportunity of witnessing this outgrowth ot the cherry fimrer festivities. Having purchased our ticket" — flat pieces of wood instead of the vsmil pasteboard — we were iifehered into n room adjoining the main ; hall of the theatre, where, as a prologue to the Myako Odori, ceremonial tea wae | perved to us. Now serving ceremonial tea ' is an accomplishment only acquired by , years of application and study. In this instance chfirs were provided for us, in front of which were placed low lacquered j tables. On a table in the centre of the room stood the paraphernalia for this ancient and honourable service. When all was ready the mistress of ceremonies appeared, gorgeoufi in robes of eilk and gold.') and took up a position at the centrai { table. She wa=. attended by a little maid j who_ acted as assistant. I shall not attempt "to describe the process of serving ! tea,, even if I were able, but every motion, from -the lifting of the ladle to' finally pouring the tea. was performed according ' to the "most definitely ' prescribed' rule.-j The hand must be elevated just exactly, 50 hisrh in etirring in the powdered tea, ! the time consumed in passing the ladle ; from the teapot to the hot water just co j long. The eyes must be cast this way j or that at each movement of the hand, j the body must be posed thus and &o at stated and fixed times. Every motion muet be accurately timed, every position, whether of hands, arms, or feet, must ' conform to certain definitely stated rules. !

Teachers of the ceremonial tea service ai-3 accounted among Japan's most accomplished women. In olden times especially they received very large salaries, for every lady of the higher classes was not considered accomplished unless pioncient in this classical art — A Hard Dose to Swallow. — With the completiop of this rather lon<v drawn-out process the bowl of prepared tea was handed to the assistant, "»wlio -passed it to the nearest guest. With both hands clasped around the bowl he gave 't two or three slightly rotary motions, when with exactly three gulps he swallowed the contents, all of which was strictly in conformity with the requirements of the best usages of talcing ceremonial tea. Each in turn was then provided with a bowl, but as it would have taken too much time to separately prepare it, as is required by good form, the process was facilitated by little girls, who served us from the culinary department direct. So far as the "thr.ee gulps' rule" was concerned I bept it inviolate,though L may have worked my eyes too often in the doing, for the tea was the vilest stuff I ever swallowed 1 . We were also served by a bevy of brightly-diressed little girls with a sample of Japanese confectionery while waiting for the famous cherry dance. This was delivered on a little plate, and looked like small apple dumplings. These "Japanese sweets" araseen everywhere, on shop shelf and candy store, in the vendor's cart, and on the trays "of old, women,- -who sell their wares to\&he frequenters of the temples, parks, and picnic resorts. So >far as I oouid make out they consist of a ball of, uncooked chocolate wrapped in dough, the whole steamed over a pan of boiling water. —To the Theatre.— Finally the door leading_ into the theatre was opened-, and as one audience passed out we filed in and took seat* specially provided for us in the balcony. The lower floor was chairless as usual Here the natives crowded in great numbers, no leas than three performances being given between the hours of 5 in the afternoon and 10 or 12 at night. The cherry dance continues throughout April, and is a spectacular performance .coeval with the festivities of these muchadmired blossoms. The stage extended around three «ides of the theatre, each, section of which contained from 10 to 15 dancers They were beautifully gowned: in blue and red kimonos, and each of the foui or five acts ended in some striking evolution or tableau. Besides the dancers, 20 musicians — all geisha girls — occupied galleries along two sides of the three-part stage. To their songs, 'accompanied on samisens and arums, the dancers kept 'time in a slow, rhythmic movement that resembled more than anything else the graceful motions of a class" in calisthenics. —The Geisha Parade. — Of the numerous festivals, performances, and processions we have witnessed during our two months' stay in Japan, none were more curious than the annual getieha parade, which we saw in Kyoto. The geisha girls form a unique factor in Japanese society. Geisha establishments exist in every large city. They are usually owned arid managed by come woman who adopts or hires young girls, whom she trains) in the art and graces of dancing, etiquette, , and repartee. No home or public dinner, banquet, or social entertainment is considered complete without the presence of one or more geisha girls. These ■necessary adjuncts serve the guests during the meal, entertain them at all times with quip, jest, repartee, and anecdote, a.nd provd© the postprandial feature oi the occasion in the form of a more or less elaborate programme made up of vocal numbers and- instrumental selections rendered on the samisen, fue and koto. This annual parade assumes the nature of an advertisement, each establishment selecting a girl from their number possessing 4<hos>3 qualities most likely to attract the most attention. Robed in the most beautiful raiment that money an<? the dressmaker's skill can provide, and foLlowed by a coolie, who carries 'an immense umbrella over her with the firm's name emblazoned thereon, and preceded by two little girls with their attendants, besides being accompanied by a maid of honour, who sees that her gorgeous outfit is always in perfect order, this queen of the festive board makes her triumphal passage through a few blocks of one of the principal streets, the cynosure of thousands assembled to witness the popular parade. Her march is slow and stately, each step being as exact as the movements in the seryice of ceremonial tea. Extremely high black lacquered clogs -give her an impression of more than usual stature. Her lips Dainted to a deep crimson, her hair a wilderness of costly combs, pins, and other hirsute ornaments, ehe presents a spectacle of Oriental splendour which, with her 15 or more -companions, goes to make up a pageant long to be remembered.

— The skin of a fieh does not suspest itself «s a suitable material for the' making of clothes, fet it is ireed for thie puroose by a triha of Tartars in Manchuria. The.v inhabit tlw» banks of the Peony River, and live by fi*hin/? and hunting. During the last hundred yeara tbey have become nearly extinct owing to the jnvasion of their domain- by • asriculfural Chinese: They are known as FjsJi-«kin J l*rtar9. The fen they tree is "the -tamara. * species of salmon. Both flesh and skin of this fish_ are cup* posed to possess wonderful heat-giving properties. The quick results of Chamberlain* Tablets in the cure of Biliousness, an<l prompt relief of all ite bad symptoms, i« something unequalled by any other medicine. They cleanse the •fcomaoh, clear out and gently stimulate the liver, drive away every symptom of pain, distress, and discomfort. For sale everywhere