ON THE NORTHERN WAIROA.

Otago Witness, Issue 2810, 22 January 1908, Page 85

ON THE NORTHERN WAIROA.

- -TO WHANGABEr ■_ By -A" Ladt R-ambleb. Once ,at 'the -town of DaTgayille, which is situated on the great, Wairoa waterway, about" 70 miles from the river mouth, the traveller can-! choose', several - routes *by which points of interest may be visited, and an outlet gained to other regions. He may continue his trip up the river at a very small expense, and Teach the { scene of the beautiful Wairua~ Falls, called- the,. Niagara. of New Zealand. The course" of. the Upper Wairoa lies, through the t , still j bush-clad country, so that" there is virgnr I forest, and -one witnesses the most picj turesque ' t aspect*- of ,the- timber industry. - Through^the great demand and the exploij "tation o£ the country there are now none of the magnificent kauri trees of , which one j reads to. be seen in the .regions of. settle.- j ment, but onHhe upper reaches -> of » the ' , Wairoa^ one still" finds the kauri -of the past, the "mighty monarch- of the forest. I As the river is ascended we change >into smaller boats suitable to the* at last nar- j rowing river, -'which "is still _ fed by mime- j rous importaritftributaries, some of which J are navigable," and by means' of whiph' we-j may still further extend out tour. As - we advance 'up the - water-way we ' draw nearer- to the beautiful and • picturesquely -outlined- ranges of and "Tangi,tawhahine,j or- Sqrrowing-<Woman; which have' threatened" to block pur .course,' -and f-which 'contribute -to jthe water supply^ -of our noble riveri .A rough scramble through bush fern leads us to the scene", of the -lovely waterfall. It is hard to leave\'the -■scene once t gained, but we must la,way, - fpi we have arranged to be met by a trap from Whangaroi Cto convey us the reinain- - ing fourteen miles which lead lie < thither and out again on'^to the East'^ Coast. -. Whangarei itself contains many points of beauty and interest, so much so that it has been "recently "taken~-in hand" /by^ ' the .Tourist /Department. ; . / - ■'» j .'."-This northern town is,, a most beautifully , situated place, nestling among hills clad -in native *bush. _ The only unfortunate;, feature 4s -the harbour, - which]- though beautiful and picturesque, is obstructed^ by shallows, - preventing easy access to the town, which is only Reached by. means of a short railway. , The special attrac"j tion of Whangarei lies in the soda waters' of the .-Kamo springs^- *which ■ provide an unceasing supply of this useful/cpmmodity. The trout natcberies are also "an< l -interr esting feature vin' Wharigarei. They are in charge pi an. enthusiast who understands the ways. and habits of.itrout, and irainst them to come to his lianoV^Eels'. also are x his pets, and rise at his command or the waving of his magic wand. The Kamo springe are surrounded by the Sanatorium grounds,- nearly "sMo"acresi in extent,- Xnd containing "fine swimming' , baths, which are not only delightful, but ' possess healing ' and curative properties. The mineral -springs ' rise from the .rock, and ' are, ivalTed in and A .great industry is carried on in the bottling ' of j the scda -water ( for . exportation. I The -kauri forest can be seen in all ija. ' original beauty,, not far from Whangarei,. and as it is very difficult now to find any, . virgin "bush, it is sincerely to" be hoped I that time will spare this area. It is un- : likely to survive, however, as already the railway and civilisation' • are nearing , this* last stronghold, of -the expiring monarch. .One tree which still survives" j& supposed to be- over 5000 years old. "There are' some magnificent exhibitions 'of /'forest growths. I saw a.- wonderful puriri -of .veiy singular ) growth,— a -\- number , of' mighty trees growing as" 3one,_ Wnd- of jmmense" age. Jt appears like the,.hauntv.of ' some . weird - ancient Druid and the -scene: of his rites. i Bold outcrops- and steep bush-clothed" faers make picturesque scenery," and. the weird forms assumed by the prevailing' limestone formations are not "" wanting. The soit also is very prolific, and jorqductiye 'of those plants which relish^ limestone. Geraniume, fuch6ias, "and "other garden favourites are , among these, and ! flourish luxuriantly- An abundance -of pure; ' sweet ' \vaters and cold,"' rushing • streams are also" characteristic of lime- , stone country, and la re jaot • wanting^ here, j .It is a perfect paradise for trout, -which abound in the cold^ fresh "streams. Fruit j also grows - -luxuriantly, and there is a j comparative l-freedom -from blight, peaches j hems;' especially numerous. -Every, house "in Whangarei has its nourishing" garden and orchard. This - is" -easily understood when the position of< .the, district is' con- » sidere'd.^-in* a sheltered :vale ' with, an j easterly, aspect.- r-Tiie- orange, the lemon, ' and the - citron-, nourish exceedingly "- and produce fruit. . -' . '• j ' Life- in Whangarei still possesses .many ; of the features of early settlement. There j is a good deal of bush close to -tie town i •and many- -beauty spots abound. '"-We went for a delightful excursion in the company of some, of the_ residents, and explored ferny dells and natural bush to our heart's content and great delight. yy y ~ _ " A favourite excursion i^to the Marsden

\ Heads, at the to the harbour. Here there are .splendid rocky formations' ; which are extremely picturesque, appear- ; ing like gigantic human forms. The beach 1 shores -of the Heads are easily .reached -by means "of yachts and oil launches. \ l^-We-made a. -more . extensive excursion^ j inland; by rail to' the 1 * beautifuf-'region I of" Hikutangi "th^-" J yHßt'""prinfeyal." forest of Puhipuhi', which?. sKoi^'d be- strictly pre^ from the ra-y^ge^rdf_c^mmerce^" Too,, "great" a~price to "pay^ns^tliis 'for" coiameree U> Beau,ty swept .away! . _ --„ r . I ts.. iljvwas tol^ "here Jan, jSteresJing ; story ,of Maori custom^ and ~of ' the dif>e result Jto -a pakeha ,of neglecting to obey. 'the direc--. , tions of an ,old;fashioned Maori tohunga. t ' The I European was .. ; engaged jn ' ajirvey 'work;- anS had astaff of f Maori enjploye'es:' On every side he'ioupd himself., obstructed'; 'by the peculiarities of their, superetitiohs.f There was an "area near. by. which^ihad been "declared vtapu'in -consequencet.-c-'f the; vdeath.or burial of a 'remote" ancestor.'fl-TJiej Maoris shunned the spot, and would- not approach- it -'on- any consideration. ' Unfot' »tunately a-^great deal- of excellent firewood- 1 lay 'upon' and around it;; and' the'Euro'pean. cast covetous eyes towards it, often requesting his staff to-collect and store the" "wood." ..Thje they utterly,^refused » to 'do v In^their aosence'at a: great gathering some distance away, the survevpr - himself gathered a quantity of wood from Lhefor,,.' bidden area, lighted a fine fire, and cooked .food .for., the. ;camj).,. This the native:employees enjoyed on their return, • without at first suspecting any ill. Some chance word aroused them suspicion, and, inquiries werejinade. A gloom fell on the ■camp, and temained J ! unbroken. - T)urin,s the" night AanoT*" the T following" day" " one", and ' another /suc'&Hnbed" to 'apparent .internal agonies. 1 Afine' young "man died hvconse-, qUenee, and \the whole' district resounded with" grief and wailings, the pakeha being accused' by all^qf being .the! .instrument of. disaster. „ People.- gathered .froan^jfar near; to join -in the 1 'mourning/ The^re-i, j mainder of , the staff continued -to exhibit i symptoms , similar to those which had de- : --.stroyed the jyoung- mah's^^-lifejyatid" thetohunga was looked- upon as -their ' 'sole -refuge. He immediately destroyed' every-* things belonging ' to ■ "the ' camp^-cTothes,' I food, tools, cookings utensils, and .property j of ,every^ kind:. " I*Ke . survey " party was j compelled .to moye/to/another-sppt,,. and I their "late. " camping' .place' , was " - declared tapu. - It ,was a severe, lesson, to tlie palceha, who thenceforth "treated the- .superstitions s of his Maori friends witlLa greater measure, of respect. ' ' , l „.'•->,".!,( „> • < ,\