ATTACK ON EVEREST

Otaki Mail, 27 March 1922, Page 1

ATTACK ON EVEREST

THE COMING EXPEDITION. HIGH HOPES OF SUCCESS. Mr George L. Mallory, who led last year’s expedition to Mount Everest and who was a master at Charterhouse, is giving a series of illustrated lectures in London and the provinces in aid of the funds for the expedition soon to set out under Brigadier-General the lion. C. G. Bruce. On the whole, he seems hopeful that the great climb to the top of the earth may be achieved this year. It, is explained by Mr Mallory that the object of the expedition was not only to surmount .Everest, but to map ami survey the unknown lands to the north and west of it. That possibility was due to the kindly permission of the Tibetans. He illustrated the work of the climbers by some suggestive word-pictures and by pictures of a more graphic kind thown on the screen. The photographs showed Mount Everest exactly as smaller photographs have shown it not as a sugarlouf peak, but as a mighty heaving head and shoulder above the long body of a resting lion. ‘ ‘"Pile the Matterhorn on the top of Mount Everest,” said Mr Mallory, “and it would not disturb it. Everest has no spire, no spikes, or towers. It is majestic, massive, impressive.” The Beauties of Sikkim. Describing the difficulties which confronted the party in the choice of. route he pointed out that politically xV, was not possible, as travellers were still not allowed to cross its border.- Therefore, they had to pass through countries or native States belongin'* to British India. As a consequence they had to go through Bikkm. Enlarging on the beauties of Sikkim ho drew a wonderful picture of the tropical and sub-tropical vegetation bird and insect life found there, and 0-reat butterflies fluttering about bki dead leaves in the wind-only they were not dead-butterfl.es as big aone’s head; mosses and luxuriant w dure, flowers of rich and glowing colours and whole meadows covered with danp purple primulas.” It was m striking contrast to the later journejThe route was then taken Iron. Kampa Dzoug across the plums and along the flat, swampy valley oi t Y ;m f. with snow chain of the Himalayas to the south. “Supreme Among Monsters.” Describing his first view of Everest, Mr Mallory said he was often asked “Does it look as big us it ought to look’” ‘‘ln my experience, nc odd ed “mountains do not much care haw thev look. It depends upon atmospheric conditions, but I think there » no doubt that Everest does appear great mountain. It is a giea ma s out of a range without a rival, and 1U„ OUI U _ • 04 000 ft. and two other giants rism b - > 05.000 f t. are not noticed again* - est. It rises supreme even among sac 1

monsters. “Have we yet seen a way to the 1 n n.ked Mr Mallory, of the mountain. a..kea “Well we think we hate. eliminated the whole of the* western side, including the western l roru that arete the mountain is set back at a considerable angle. To the experienced eye it seems possible to get up that side. That is a hopeful sign. “l ,M .id. i. . «■* f «“ mountain.” One of the worst object to be contended with was quite near the summit, where there was a tern steep snow slope. Difficulties to he Faced. -Prom a, mountaineering point °J view, he thought it might be said that there were probably no difficulties that would deter a strong party if the d-f----fiealties were met with m the Alps, but wa= far different when they were met with in the Himalayas. The weather had taken very much into account, bar ? a that matter this year’s party would be undoubtedly better o2 than was the case last rear. The great aim wouffi be to start early and get the work done before the monsoon set in, and he halittle doubt that if that were possible better conditions would be met with. Then there was the question or health ! and the ability of a man to carry loads above a certain elevation, and m that matter he did not think that any observations th?y made last year proven 1 that it was impossible for them to do {so above 24,000 ft. 3y a system or ret lays it might be possible to establish t if'He mountain wan to be climbed. He £ had sanguine hopes that as a result or !, their labors a way to the top of Everi est had been discovered, i Brigadieh-General Bruce explained I that it was entirely on the reconnaisj sance work oi last year that their hopes \ox this year’s work were based. Miter ji what had been done and discovered, [ ! the conquest of Everest did not seem ! to present insuperable difficulties. nrniiT-Tiim hiwihiii