THE GARDEN
Contributed by D. TANNOCK, A.H.R.H.B.
ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS J. S„ Oamaru.—Your plums are attacked by a disease called mock or pocket plums: You should spray your tree with Bordeaux Mixture 8.6.40 during the dormant period or lime sulphur, 1 in 25 of water. The fungus winters in the bark and bud scales, and'twigs showing traces of the disease, and all affected fruit, should be cut off and burned. . G. J„ Palmerston.—The caterpillar had disappeared, but there were several lively ladybirds in the box. For' caterpillars lime sulphur spray is little use. You should use arsenate of lead. J. R., Wendon, Gore.—There is a little mildew on the rose shoot sent, but not enough to stop growth. There are most likely grubs at the roots. Fork in some Hort Nap round the plants and spray with lime sulphur, 1 in 125. J. S., Stirling.—The name of the plant is Rehmannia glutinosa, a native of China and quite hardy. RAMBLER AND CLIMBING ROSES Climbing and rambler roses are quite a feature in many Dunedin gardens at present, and they beautify many fenceand verandas which would otherwise be plain and uninteresting. There ,is a distinct difference between a rambler and a climing rose, although several nurserymen group them together-in their--cata-logues. The ramblers are usually hybrid.between the garden rose and Rosa multiflora and R. wichuriana. Examples are
Lady Gay, Blush Rambler, American Pillar. and Princess of Orange. Climbers are mainly strong-growing sports of the bush garden roses, such as climbing Golden Emblem, C. Madam E. Herriot, and C. Shot Silk. The ramblers are suitable for growing over pergolas, arches, and arbours, and for clothing rustic and trellis fences where the wind can blow through, and also for draping walls and the banks of streams. The climbers, on the other hand, are quite suitable for growing on the walls of houses, up pillars. on verandas, - and also on fences. Both kinds have to make quantities of new wood each year, and both require to be manured generously. The ramblers are the strongest growers, and they are quite capable of making long, strong shoots up to 20 feet in one year. When they are doing well they should make sufficient young growths to enable the old wood which has flowered to be cut' right back to the ground, so that there, ig a new plant every year. This can be done immediately after flowering, so that the young growths may have room to develop and ripen up before winter. In the autumn, after growth has ceased, the unripened tips of the shoots can be cut off and the thin and weak ones cut out altogether. Unless they- are pruned regularly, they'grow into a tangled mass, which it is impossible to spray satisfactorily for either green fly or mildew. both of which are troublesome on ramblers. In add tion to the usual method of growing ramblers, they make most attractive weeping standards, which are effective when planted on the lawn or among dwarf polyanthus kinds.
The climber or pillar kinds can make growths up to Bft or more in a season, and the method of* pruning, which can be carried out in late autumn or early winter, is to cut out as much of the old wood as possible, and to tie in the young growths almost to their full length. This is what is known as long pruning, and is also suitable for the strong-growing bushes when quantity as well as quality is required. They have to be kept open, but they are not nearly as susceptible to attacks of either green fly or mildew as the ramblers, when grown against a wall or board fence. Another method of growing these climbing kinds is by pegging them down in beds or borders. In the autumn the old wood is cut out, the young shoots tipped and then pegged down in as near a horizontal position as possible. The buds then get an equal supply of sap, they practically all grow into flowering shoots, and the old ones are wreathed with flowers from end to end. STANDARD ROSES The ordinary standard roses which are effective in gardens, ’where shelter can be provided, are also strong-growing varieties which are budded on to briar or rugosa stems 3ft high. They are effective when planted as lawn specimens, bordering a 'path, and as an overgrowth for beds of carnations, pinks, pansies, violas and small spring-flowering , bulbs. Wherever grown, they should be tied securely to a good stout stake. Six good rambler roses would be American Pillar, Alberic Barbier, Excelsa, Paul’s Scarlet, Lady Gay and Dorothy Perkins. Twelve good climbers would be Climbing Shot Silk, C. Madm. E. Herriot, C. Golden Emblem, C. Etoile de Holland. C.. Madam Butterfly* Mable Morse, C. Golden Dawn, C. Souv de Georges Pernet, C. Lady Hillingdon, C: Mrs Sam McGredy, C. Chateau de Clos Vouget, and. C. Souv de Madam Boulet. Roses other than the ordinary bush varieties (which are still the most popular) suitable for the garden are dwarf . polyanthus, usually called Poly Poms and 1 {he Polyanthus Hybrids. The Poly Poms are bushy varieties, with a compact habit, bearing quantities of small flowers throughout the season, these being borne well above the foliage. They are most
suitable for small beds, and in these days of scarcity of labour they could take the place of annuals and other of the usual bedding plants in the flower garden. The colours of the newer varieties are attractive, especially the pink, orange, orange-salmon, crimson and orange-scarlet shades. They can also be used as low hedges to separate one part of the garden from another. The Hybrid Polyanthus types are generally more vigorous, and are suitable for filling large beds or borders. They are often referred to as Poulsen Rose, for most of the good ones were raised by Mr Poulsen in Denmarkr. They are generally more favoured by amateurs who prefer the large blooming types and attractive sparkling pinks and scarlets. This type is also most suitable for forming hedges up to a height of sft and for this special purpose Sunny South, an Australian-raised variety, is specially suitable. Both the Poly Poms and the Hybrid Polyanthus make excellent dwarf standards when budded on to briars 2ft to 2£ft high. All these types of roses can be propagated by means of cuttings which are made from strong, clean, well-ripened shoots, cut into pieces 9in to 12in in length, the lower end dipped into one of the ‘rooting hormones and buried three-quarters of their length in welldrained light, sandy soil. Cuttings put in last autumn are coming, into flower now. They can also be layered somewhat similar to carnations. Young one-year-old growths are chosen, such as are easily bent down to ground level. A cut is made with a sharp knife on the lower side of the stem, a little below a bud forming a tongue, and this is pegged down firmly into sandy soil. ~ Rooting usually takes place quickly, but layers are better left undisturbed for a year.
Permanent link to this item
Hononga pūmau ki tēnei tūemi
https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/ODT19471205.2.104
Bibliographic details
Ngā taipitopito pukapuka
Otago Daily Times, Issue 26636, 5 December 1947, Page 9
Word count
Tapeke kupu
1,173THE GARDEN Otago Daily Times, Issue 26636, 5 December 1947, Page 9
Using this item
Te whakamahi i tēnei tūemi
Allied Press Ltd is the copyright owner for the Otago Daily Times. You can reproduce in-copyright material from this newspaper for non-commercial use under a Creative Commons New Zealand BY-NC-SA licence. This newspaper is not available for commercial use without the consent of Allied Press Ltd. For advice on reproduction of out-of-copyright material from this newspaper, please refer to the Copyright guide.