THE ROYAL WEDDING GOWNS REVEALED

Otago Daily Times, Issue 26623, 20 November 1947, Page 7

THE ROYAL WEDDING GOWNS REVEALED

'FULL COURT TRAIN t ./' \ . ■- /•’ ' iq Crystals Y and Pearls .. — -L- . ; / . SpeciaUyvyritt'jn for the Dtjuly Times by Patricia Taylor. K v j LONDON, Nov. 19. To-day there will be revealed to the thousands of women who line Princess Elizabeth’s wedding .route the closelyguarded secret of her fabulous gown. ’ And “fabulous” is the right word for this exquisite frock, which gives conclusive proof that British materials and craftsmanship can still beat the world- when the occasion demands. The Hartnell-designed gown of ivory duchesse satin, cut on classic lines, with fitted bodice, long tight sleeves and full, falling skirt is a creation about which even a fairy-tale princess might dream; no matter what function Elizabeth attends in later years when she ascends the Throne, she will .never wear a lovelier gown than her wedding frock.

The broad, ( heart-shapbd neckline of the ' bodice is delicately embroidered with seed pearls and crystal in a floral design. From the pointed waist-line formed by a girdle of pearlembroidered star flowers, the swirling skirt is hand-embroidered in an exquisite design inspired by the paintings of Botticelli, representing garlands of white York roses, carried out in raised pearls entwined with ears of corn, which are minutely embroidered ' in crystals and oat-shaped pearls. Alternating between the garlands of roses and wheat, and forming a final border round the entire hem of the skirt, are bands of oran’ge blossom and star flowers. These are appliqued with transparent tulle, bordered by seed pearls and crystal.’ Only the long pointed sleeves are free of embroidery—a touch of couturier designing genius—so that the wedding boquet will lie classically in the curve of their richly gleaming smoothness. There are /II yards of satin in the frock. Full Court Train A full court train, 15 feet long, of transparent ivory silk tulle attached to the shoulders, is edged with graduated satin flowers, which finally form into a deep border at the end of the fan-shaped train. The same type of embroidery as is employed on the wedding gown is here;used in reverse by the use of applique satin star flowers, roses and wheat, further encrusted with pe'arl and crystal embroideries. An ethereal voluminous bridal veil of crisp white tulle is held by a tiara of pearls and diamonds, to fall in seven cascading tiers to ground level.

—apart from materials and the designer’s fee. For her going-away ensemble the Princess has chosen a simple dress of love in the mist blue crepe, with crossover bodice draped to the left hip, where a 'small bow holds securely the three inset panels at the left side of the skirt. The sleeves are loose three- . quarter length. Her travelling coat of Love-in-the-Mist blue velour cloth with soft revers has the season’s new rounded, shoulders Which continue into wide' comfortable sleeves, with deep armholes. Inset bands across the coat front are held with three buttons as far as the waist, where the gentlyflared skirt gives the required fullness. The coat- is cut to modern midcalf length. The going-away hat is a high bonnet beret model (much, favoured by the Princess in her latest millinery purchases). In mist blue felt, it is trimmed with a large ostrich pompom and curved quills in two tones of blue. Elastic mushroom-beige suede •is used for the shoes which go with this outfit. A step-in size 5 model with a curving vamp which, cut low at the outside, sweeps high over the instep to the inside of the shoe, it is finely perforated in front. Handbag and gloves tone with the shoes. Incidentally, this combination of blue ensemble and mushroom-beige accessories is quite a new and unusual colour scheme. And now that it has been launched by Royalty, women everywhere will be quick to follow suit. The Bridesmaids’ Gowns The lovely, diaphanous bridesmaids’ dressej, of ivory silk tulle over ivory satin were inspired by the pictures of Winterhalter, Tuxen and Sir George Hayter at Buckingham Palace. The tight-fitting bodice o.f gathered tulle is shirred down the centre front. The shoulders are swathed with a deep fichu of pearl-spotted tulle bordered with a delicate trail of applique white satin syringa; a big satin bow secures the fichu to the bodice top. Bouffant Victorian skirts of billowing tulle are scattered with clusters of crystal and pearl-edged syringa flowers in applique satin, embroidered to repeat the effect of the embroidery on the bridal train. Ivory satin is also used for the bridesmaids.’ ankle-strap. sandals, ' which have narrow, interlaced satin stripping piped, with silver kid, and fitted . . with . small pearl-studded buckles. May Go, Overseas Eighty yards of tulle went into tfje makipg of 1 each of che eight brides- ; maids’ dresses. I hear that Princess ■Margaret, who loves beautiful clothes as much as any girl anywhere in the world, thinks her frock is “just right {on, a fairy-tale princess.” And she is absolutely awed by her sister’s wonderful gow'ii. The whole wedding group to-day Will make a picture that will be a glorious sight to see in these austerityridden times of ours. It is a pity that the newsreel pictures will not be able to do justice-to the lovely materials and Unbelievably delicate workmanship which has gone into the creation of the gowns. ' There is a suggestion that Princess Elizabeth’s wedding gown may be sent . overseas so that women in the dominions and America can view this dress of the century. And I sincerely hope, that New Zealand women will have a chance to see this Hartnell masterpiece which, in spite of to-day’s conditions, must surely be one of the loveliest frocks ever fashioned for a Royal bride. I understand that the bride’s mother, Queen Elizabeth, will be wearing an apricot and gold lame dress to-day with long, tight sleeves and a pointed train to the long skirt. Her hat will be of - apricot tint, with amber-toned feathers.

• The' wedding shoes ..exactly match the frock —-ivory duchesse satin selflined sandals, with reverse folds on the high instep strap and across the front. The open toe, back and sidei effect is finished off, with a buckle studded with small pearls. Princess Elizabeth had three half- < hour fittings only for her wedding frock. A Hartnell representative told me: “She is very patient and most helpful at all her fittings.’”' . s Six people only saw the actual completed frock before to-day. Apart from Mr Hartnell himself, his chief fitter and the verideuse, they were her Majesty tjie Queen, Princess Margaret and, of course, Princess Elizabeth. The King will see it for the first time to-day, when he meets his lovely daughter—a shy but happy and, excited bride—to escort her to the altar at Westminster Abbey. At Mr .Hartnell’s exclusive Bruton street, Mayfair, establishment, fashion writers of the world’s pr4ss were just shown spot-lighted coloured sketches of the wedding outfits, and samples of the applique embroidery. Details Closely Guarded It was at Princess Elizabeth’s express wish that the details of the frock were -so closely guarded, although it ■ would be impossible tp copy a gown' like this at under approximately . £IOOO. All of Mr Hartnell’s 300 employees had some small part in the making, which will give you some idea of the cost of workmanship alone