PENCILLINGS BY THE WAY.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 144, 2 May 1862, Page 5

PENCILLINGS BY THE WAY.

(FROM OUR OWN CORRESPONDENT.)

No. 6.—Auckland,

As the capital city of tlio Northern Island, Auckland is admirably situated. Formed at an early period in the history of the colon}', when the island was devastated by the sanguinary wars of powerful rival tribes, its position enabled it to hold the key-of the northern and southern portions of the island. Standing on the best and most accessible harbor of the East Coast, and within, a-few miles'distance of the western shores, it is able to hold easy communication with the whole island. The city is situated on the so-called river, or rather arm of the sea called the Waitemata, which here forms a spacious harbor, affording anchorage for vessels of the largest tonnage. The harbor, although sheltered from the swell of the sea, by the numerous groups of islands that are scattered about the outside of tlie river, is yet not completely sheltered from the strong north-east gales which frequently prevail, causing sometimes considerable loss to the small coasting craft, and even drifting large vessels from their anchorage. I acilities for the loading and discharging of the numerous vessels which arc employed in the coasting and foreign trade, are afforded by an extensive and remarkably well constructed wharf, of great length and wid tli, enabling the goods to be landed or embarked direct by the drays. And on a fine day, this wharf presents a very busy scene, coasting - craft of ■ all kinds of shapes and rigs, from the smart clipper to the clumsy hoj', or the rude canoes of tiie natives, lie alongside discharging their various cargoes and taking in siipplics. Some are laden with timber, of which large quantities arrive from the various saw-mills along the coast, others again have brought the luscious treasures of the South Pacific islands,or are loaded with fruit and vegetables from tbe various settlements along the coast. Anon the stalwart forms of the tars belonging to the men-of-war stationed in the harbor, mayjbe seen waiting with oars erect, ready to pull i off to their ships, and groups of Maories in'every variety of dress and feature, may be observes engaged either inmnking gesticulatory bargains for their produce, or lazily watching in mute stolidity the scene around them. Canoes of all sizes, from the more clumsy, one for ordinary purposes, to the ornamented and larger Waka-Waka, or war canoe, are darting about, impelled by the vigorous arms of native men and women, who, singing a confused sort of chant, wield their paddles in every position of grace and motion. Some of the women,particnlarly those of particular tribes ancl of high caste, are really beautiful,and as they sit either in erect attitude at the stern, directing the movements of the others, or in Jundulatory motion dip : ping their paddles in the water, are perfect models of grace ,and dignity. Strong, muscular Maories, some of them of Herculean appearance, are ~ engaged in discharging thecargoes of wheat, maize,potatoes or peaches, which they have|brought to sell to the Pakeha. The garb of these men is of every variety of costume, from the blanket, pure et simple, to the more elaborate habiliments of the European. Some are clad in all the glory of a modern dandy, with an Inverness cape flowing gracefully from their broad shoulders, whilst others again, present every opportunity for minute physiological investigation. The native.women, also, present the same diversity of appearance; here you may see a dusky belle decked out in all the elaboration of pork-pie hat and spreading crinoline, the latter, however, revealing the unclad feet of the fashonableaboriginal, which unfortunately are not ofthe size or shape for a ball-room, while on the other hand a less ambitious sister squatted down bn her haunches, peers at you with a pair of lustrous dark eyes, just visible in the ample folds of her shawl or flaxen mat. Some ofthe natives clown the coast own some very^ smart cutters and schooners, which they manage with all the skill of European sailors; one of the finest clipper schooners trading to the Bay of Islands is commanded and mainly manned by Maories 5 the captain, Tautari, being a skilful sailor, having studied the theory of navigation, and passed his examination as a shipmaster. It is rather surprising, considering their general slovenly habits, to find the native vessels, especially those which carry passengers, kept in such good order and neatness, sails neatly furled aud every rope in its place. The City of Auckland is irregularly built, the streets having been formed, more as the exigency of the time required, than with regard to any regular plan. With but few ex- , ceptions the streets are steep, and not over well kept. The principal business street, Queen street, extends from the wharf for a distance of about a quarter of a mile ; here are most of the 'wholesale stores and principal shops. Near the wharf is a very large steam flour mill, built of brick, and is the largest building for manufacturing purposes in the colony. It is only a recent erection, being built on the site of an old wooden mill which was destroyed by fire about two years ago. Large quantities of wheat are imported from California to supply the works, and the coal for the engines is brought in Auckland vessels from Newcastle, New South Wales. Queen street boasts some remarkably handsome shops, one block—Cauda Buildings, being of a character and appearance not often surpassed in the large cities of England. Many of the stores occupied by the principal merchants are of considerable size, but without architectural pretensions. The Union Bank and the Savings Bank are both about erecting handsome premises, which, from the plans will no doubt be a great acquisition in an architectural point of view. The Odd Fellows Hall, the principal building for public meetings, &c, is a plain stuccoed erection of a mean appearance, and with bad approaches. The Supreme Court buildings and debtors prison, and police lock-up, are miserable tumble-down piles of rotten timber, totally inadequate for the proper accomodation ofthe court, and a disgrace to the Government. In fact, the same remark in a lesser degree, may be applied to all the buildings for Government purposes, with the single exception of Government House, the official residence of the Governor; and the Resident Magistrate's Court. Government House is a large wooden building, but constructed so as to imitate stone, and in point of architectural appearance pleasing. It is situate on a tolerably elevated site, commanding a fine view of the harbour and the coast, it is enclosed in well laid out and carefully kept grounds, of moderate extent, and planted with various kinds of English trees; altogether it has just such an official appearance as the residence of the Governor of a large colony should have. The House of '■ Assembly situated opposite to Government House, oh an admirable site, is a paltry looking barrack, more like a carpenter's workshop than the arena, where the , mental athletes of New Zealand meet to mea- '-. sure their strength. The interior arrange- ; ments somewhat compensate for the wretched j outside appearance, being tolerably convenient, • but ill ventilated, and too limited in extent. Although you do not enter this room%ith the ] feelings of reverence and respect that one ex- s periences when treading the empty halls of < England's legislators, where the very echoes ! seen to call forth the spirits of the mighty orators who once dealt out the destinies of peoples and kingdoms; still it is impossible j tor those who have ever been present at the ;

deliberations of a New Zealand parliament,.' .to avoid .calling back to.their memory scenes not without interest to the most critical. Taken collectively, there is no colonial legis- , lafure which so near approaches the dignified ; respectability of tlie House of Commons as does the General Assembly of New Zeaalnd. The absence of the democratic element has prevented the deliberations of the representatives from being scandalised by the coarse personalities ancl unseemly disorder which have !" occasionally cast to much contempt an the proceedings of the Australian parliaments. Scrupulously following the regulations of the House of Commons in respect to the maintenance of due .decorum and regularity, the New Zealand Assembly may, and does, set an example worthy ofthe imitation of its neighbours. Perhaps it may not be out of place for me to refer to the last event of moment which tools; place in this hall during the last session. When Mr. Fox had given notice of his intended motion of want of confidence in the late Stafford ministry, the most intense interest was felt iv tbe proceedings by the public, speculations of all sorts wore made as to the result, and every one anticipated that at auy rate' the occasion would no doubt bring out the powers of the cleverest men of the House. On that memorable day the House was crowded, every member was in his place, and hundreds of the general public were unable to obtain admission. Before the business of the day commenced, and the ' members were talking together in groups, it was interesting to scan the faces of the rival statesmen and endeavor to detect the evidences of anticipated triumph or defeat. Here stood in careless attitude Mr. Fox. jaunty impudent, and confidenc, talking to his followers, the expectation of triumph beaming in his features. i Near him was the unpleasing, unreadable face of the Superintendent of Auckland, a man of undoubted ability, but whose political i honesty is not above suspicion. There stood Mr. Stafford, easy, business-like, and assured —without the slightest trace of anxiety on his face. There sat Mr. Richmond, with his pale : thoughtful face and intellectual forehead, poring over papers and referring to dispatches, • his countenance was that of a man who felt - that his proceedings were to be the theme of : debate, and upon whose shoulders would the : task of defence be laid. i Mr. Fox spoke in the tone, and with the - manner of a barrister addressing a jury, dogmatic aud brilliant, yet sometimes flippant and weak—now dealing out a smart phillippic, or a stinging sarcasm, but still without force, — conviction came not with his scorching denunciations and generalising insinuations; witb bim it was :— " Here in such business Action is eloquence, and the eyes of the ignorant More learned than the ears !" When Mr. Richmond rose to reply, it was evident that his feelings were intensely worked upon, but he began calmly to analyse the grounds of opposition, pointed out clearly the inaccurate statements and false insinuations made by his antagonist, damaged one by one his flimsy arguments, and wound up by an eloquent heart-stirring speech in favor of the policy of his party, and as one listened to his - dignified defence of the political character o - himself and his colleagues; when he told in broken heart-felt tones how much he had the interests of the colony at heart, —it was im- • possible to withold the feeling that you wero listening to a thoroughly honest speaker. In the retirement of Mr. llichmond from public life, the Colony has lost the services of its ablest and most honest statesman, The Government Offices fbr the various departments are of the same paltry inappropriate character. The offices of the various heads of departments are huddled together in a number of connected dwelling-houses built of wood, and looking like some inferior lodging house. The Post Office is an over-grown stable, and the Land Office little better ; ii*. fact, the Public Buildings of the General Government in Auckland are a disgrace to the Colony and the Province. r" As the chief military depot of the colony, and tlie seat of Government, the military buildings and defences of Auckland are of course considerable. Tlie-. harbor is commanded, by Fort Britomart, erected on the cliffs just in front of the town, a fortification armed with about 10 cannon, the traverses being formed in earthworks, which are carried all round the forts; its powers of resistance however to a war-vessel appears extremely problematical, for it 'certainty does not convey even to an unscientific mind any great ideas of strength. The Albert Military Barracks are of great extent surrounded by a strong wall of masonry, loopholed all its length. In the enclosure is an extensive parade ground and numerous buildings for the accommodation of troops, armouries and magazine. For the last two years this has been a continued scene of excitement, troops arriving and departing to and from the seat of war, or from England and India, daily marches of the troops in garrison, and continued parades have kept the place alive with the constant din and formal pomp of war. St. Paul's church is a plain gothic building, of moderate size, but fitted up inside ' with ever}' convenience, in fact it is as comfortable and pretty a little church inside as one need wish to sit iv ; it contains an organ sent for at great expense from England,- the organ is part of it nearly 100 years old, butit isonly a very mediocre instrument. There are other churches in the city and and suburbs, but none of any note. The Wesleyans have also a fine brick chapel, and there are also buildings belonging to the Dissenters and Roman Catholics. The general effect of the city is not striking ; it has nothing metropolitan about its appearance, excepting Government House, and the streets are some of them filthy as the back slums of a manufacturing town in England, and all the inhabitants build as they like and where they like, so that houses are built on all sorts of levels in the same street, to some you must descend as to a cellar, and climb up steps to others. Some of the streets are badly paved, and all are unlighted. Parnell, a pretty suburb, is on the southern side of the city, following the harbor; a goodroad passes through it, and being a favorite place of residence with the merchants and officials of Auckland, contains many pretty houses and well-kept grounds. ■ The segment of a ship's side, weighing fifteen tous, nnd represcntiug the broadside of the Warrior, built entirely of iron, has been received at Woolwich from Messrs. Faiabaim & Co., of Manchester, and has been forwardrd to Shoeburyness, to test the power of resistance in competition with a target of equal depth and dimensions, backed by timber instead of iren, and faced with iron slabs. The Jardin d'Acclimatisation at Paris, as theseas on advances, becomes more popular. Its greenhouses are now the rendezvous of the fashionable world, and the refreshment tables in the midst of groves and blooming plants are every afternoon crowded with loungers who formerly frequented the cafes in the boulevards.^ Amongst the zoological attractions there are the various famdies of swans which swim upon its ponds; there is the domestic swan, with red beak and white body; the wild swan, with black and yellow beak, from thenort of Europe: the black-necked swan, from South America j and the black swan from Australia. Broods of the latter have been completely domesticated in France, aud are in appearance quite as stately as they sail on the water as the white swan, to which their sable plumage forms a pretty contrast.— lllustrated News.