WALKER'S JOURNAL.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 143, 1 May 1862, Page 5

WALKER'S JOURNAL.

Copy op Mr. Walker's Journal prom Rockhampion to the Albert River, O-hu? of Car-

PEtfTARIA,

I have kept no regular journal until the day upon .which I left the Victoria River, and as the ground previously was nearly all welljknown to me, the following will serve as a sort of preface:—

I received Capt. Mayne's letter on the 6th August. I returned that day forty miles to Bauhinian Downs ; stopped there the next day to arrange matters with my friend Mr. Charles B. Dutten; sent Patrick to collect my men, and gave <Jfrections to Jack Horsfeldt to cure the meat for the expedition. I then started for Rockhampton, but when I reached the Dawson I could not get the horses within twenty yards of the bank. Patrick cut a canoe and I crossed. Finding Mr. Govanat Rio I exchanged horses with him. I rode his to Rockhampton and he mine to his station. ILas-le tto get everything in readidiness, but fou ;1 »t only twelve horses' had been purchased. With the assistance of my friends, Mr llutcliinson and Captain Hunter, I made up my lot in a few days, and started the whole party out on Saturday, the 25th August. Stopped till the next doy partly to get the English mail aud partly to hear what had become of the Victoria steamer. Captain Cottier, of the Clarence, told me that vessel, together with a brig', were to have started the day previous (Saturday) direct for the Albert River, without touching anywhere, so I was disappointed in my hopes of seeing Captain Norman before I started. Some delay took place owing to the heaviness of the ground oil my way up to Mr. Dutton's. We, however, managed to croas the Dawson safely ; stopped two days at Mr. Living's, taking in flour and sugar and arranging the packs, and twomoredays at Mr. Dutton's, packing the meat aud preparing every tiling in proper order for the final start, which, to my great joy, took place onthe7th September. The horses are not in as good order as I would wish, some are all right, but others look very seedy, and several have been griped. I must get them in proper trim before I can go ahead full speed. So for the Present short stages and good camps are the order of the day. And it is lucky I know the ground so well. When I reached Albenier Downs, the station of Messrs. Hope, Dennistoun, and Rollestone, a mare was so ill I was obliged to leave her. I saw that if I wished to make anything of a journey I must have more strength in horses, especially as the pack saddles hurt the horses' ribs, and 1 had no spare ones to relieve them. I accordingly bought three from my friend, Mr. Patten, and four more from Messrs. Davis and Allen. We now pushed on, but still only by moderate stages, as the horses were still much purged by the new grass. We reached Mr. Macintosh's station on a creek flowing into the Nogoa. On the 14th spelled, and 15th left the station, for good or otherwise on the 16th ; upon reaching the Nogoa, which I crossed on the 19th, I went to the north to hit Poma, which tributary of the Cla,ude takes its rise at my pass over the main range; this is a great detour, but by this means I avoided the dense brigalow scrub which intervenes between the Nogoa River and Salvator Lake and the pass. On the 20th we reached the beautiful Emerald Downs, on Poma Creek, camped there the 21st, and arrived at the foot of the pass and my old camp on tha 23rd; the grass had caught fire from my camp and was now a fine sward; the horses were within a square mile in the morning, and as we got a clear start, did the twenty miles to my No. 30 tree in the Nivelle, in good time; nevertheless, one horse, evidently sick, gave in on the way. and had to be left. We camped here on the 25th; sent back for the sick horse> and I marked a tree WE, My first marked tree is on Emerald Downs, as that was new ground to me. The 26th we pushed down to the Nive, and marked a tree No. 5. This is about five miles above my old No. 11 camp. . The next day, 27th, crossed over to the Victoria, and camped No. 6, below my No. 29 tree. On the 28 th, 29th, and 30th, pushed down to the Victoria by fair stages, the horses now rapidly improving. On the Ist October moved down the river to another camp two miles further, and at this camp marked PW and RSV. We spelled —- • 3 Oct. 10 1861. until the morning of the 7th October, long. }14G° 1, lat. 24 ° 31. Whilst camped here we searched for the L tree seen by Gregory, but as we had seen his 22nd (2CX11.) tree on the north bank, we searched on the same for the L tree, and it was not until the sth Jingle and Mr. Haughton found it on the south bank. In the meantime I had found another L tree two miles below, our camp on north side,and seven below the tree seen by Gregory. Ilookedfor anopenroadN.N. W.,butwas checked by a dense, almost impenetrable, sorub of acacia. Mitchell calls this acacia "brigalow," but that is incorrect, for it differs much from it. and I have seen but two or three real brigalow since we crossed the ridge dividing the Nive water-shed from that of the Victoria. The blacks call this acacia "gurrt." Brigalow they call " noorwool." A little below the second L tree I found I could pass round the termination of this scrub. I surmise that Leichardt intended leaving the Victoria at the tree sten by Gregory ; was stopped in his N.N. W. course by the same barrier encountered by me, and turned back to camp at the tree found by me, subsequently clearing the scrub where I rounded it. His track, if he had dry weather, would, on this basaltic soil, be soon obliterated. The horses by the few days' rest here on the best grass the Australian colonies afford, got into fine condition, and it was a pleasure to see so many fine horse 3 with their coats shining as if they had been stabled and well groomed. Journal from 7th October to 7th December, > ■ 1861. Monday, 7th October.—There was much difficulty in catching;the horses this morning, owing to their having improved so much during the last few days' spell. Walter and Larry returned with my letters this morning. Having at last got a start at 10.30, we first went 35° west of north to clear a scrub, and passing by Leiehardt's second L tree ; at the end of two miles I turned N.N.W., and kept this course for fifteen miles, until we pulled up a small creek on a myall plain. The country has been to-day a succession of downs and plains, intersected by narrow and Sien scrub of the acacia the blacks call "gorrt." amp No. 11; rain at night. Tuesday, Bth October.—A fair start at 8.30; course still N.N.W. At the end of four miles and three-quarters we crossed a sandy creek with a large lied, but no water; it was here running through sandhills, but lower down I could see it opened on the downs and plains we had been traversing all morning. One mile beyond_ this we killed an emu; the next five and a half miles brought us to another creek, but-with a pool of water; luckily for the horses the first mile and a half was through open acacia scrub, the remainder plain. We now ascend a high downs ridge, surmounted by a' belt of scrub ; we reached the summit in tliree inilos, still N.N.W. Here were fresh tracks of blacks. We had reached the division of waters betwixt the Alice and Victoria. The first creek crossed to-day was no doubt that crossed by Sir Thomas Mitchell, and which he marks on his map as a deep rocky channel. Still N.N.W. for three miles and a. quarter more, crossing one plain, the remainder open scrub. We now turned N. by W. ■ 10 deg. for three miles, and then N. by E. 10 (leg., because Jingle thought a creek lay in that direction, for two miles and three-quarters. This last five miles and three-jjuarters has been sandy box country, clothed with a grass like knitting-needles. We camped without, water at dusk ; I was disgusted to find three packhorses missing.- AH hands at work to make, a yard, in which we enclosed the horses for the flight , V■' ' ■ . Wednesday, 9th October.—At daylight Patrick Jemmy (Cargara), and Jingle started for the missing horses, and, to my great joy, brought them safe to the camp within half an hour. We, now made haste to pack, jand started at 8 N. by E. 10 deg. for three miles, when we found a pool of muddy or rather milky looking - water; the horses indulged in a good drink, and we filled two of our excellent water bags — last night we found the benefit of them* I turned to my course again, N.N.W,, which we followed for four miles, when I discerned symptoms of a water course trending N. by E. 10 deg. A very short distance showed I was right, and I followed it lor three miles through a scrub/when it joined a larger creek, which flowed W.N. W. This creek I followed three miles to camp at "a place sufficiently ripen and well grassed for my : purpose. This era ek had, oiler we camo oa it, '. reoeired two tributaries

;fronvthe N:K.; - and- Imd now abundance of watery possibly but not certainly permanent. One horse called the Artful Dodger, gave some trouble by plunging pack awl all into a deep waterhole. Mr. Macaiister and Mr. Haughton got him out with some trouble. Camp No. 13. —Except the last six miles, the ground -was the same sandy box country, with the same grass, as yesterday evening. Thursday, 10th October.—This morning we would have made a fair start, considering tho scrubby na--ture of the ground, but a delay took plnce, owing to Mr. Macaiister going in search of some horses, which ■were already found and close to camp ; we started, therefore, as late as 10.15. The first if N.N.W. 25 was through scrub; wo then ascended a small range, aud travelled over a tableland of sandy ground, with the same needle-like grass as yesterday. At the end of five miles we descended into a broad sandy creek, with reeds, and which had not long ceased running; I called this the Patrick, after one of my old comrades (aboriginal). Another delay of an hour took place, owing to a flour-bag having been torn. The Patrick now ran N.N.W. 30, and then N.N.W. 25 ; I therefore followed it for two miles and three quarters. It now turned JV. \V. 45, but I still followed it, for the heavy sandy ground and an oppressively hot day I saw was distressing to the horses. At the end of another two miles it turned N.N.W. 25, when a half mile's ride bi-ought us to a long reach of water, at which I camped, as the day's work was too much broken into. (Camp No. 14.) Thunder to the westward and southward. I Biippose I am now about nine miles from the Alice. When I left the Victoria, I lay down in pencil, on Mitchell's map, what I supposed to be the probable course of tho Alice, also a tributary which exactly answers to the creek we were on last night, and which I have now callad the Macaiister. The Patrick I fell in with three miles sooner than I anticipated, but its northerly course makes up for that. I hope to fall in on the other side of the Alice with a tributary coming from the N.N.W., possibly from the North.* Friday, 11th October.—Much trouble in collecting the horses this lnornms;, as they have, for the firsfJ time split up into four different lots. I started Mr. Macalsstar at 10.30 with thirty horses, but the remainder delayed me and Mr. Haughton until 1.30. Mr. Macaiister had travelled N.N.W. by compass, according to my instructions, and I pulled him up at a beautiful camp, on a small creek, with excellent grass. The country after the first four miles was all plains and downs, intersected by small belts of the gorrt (acacia) scrub. The last five miles was over very fine downs, clothed with that excellent grass I call rye 'because it always grows near barley grass). From these downs I saw the range, about twenty-five miles to the east; I was too late to mark the tree this evening, and accordingly marked it the next morning, but only, with a No. 15, as I was in a hurry to got a start thii cool morning. Saturday, 12th October.—To-day we rode fifteen miles N.N.W. by compass, over fine very high downs; crossed two small creeks flowing from thorn N. by W., and camped at the head of a third. The range now lay about twenty miles east, and betwixt us and it there was a fine downy valley evidently well watered. Day cool and pleasant, aud horses doing well on the excellent feed. (Camp No. 16.) Marked as visual FW. Latitude by observation, 23° 17' S. Night cool; thermometer at daylight, 50 °. Sunday, 13th October. -Our course, N.N.W. by compass, took us down tho creek we had camped on, until it joined another water in several places; we crossed this creek, and at the end of seven miles and a half from our camp we crossed a creek full of water; with an anabranch flowing to the S.W. TIII3 I take to be the Alice. Hitherto wo have been on fine downs all day; within half a mile we crossed a tributary coming from the north, and in another mile another tributary; by keeping our course N.N.W. we again crossed the first creek, and at the end of six miles we came to a fine reach of water, too tempting to pass, so we camped four miles back ; in the first tributary we saw the finest reach of water I have seen this side of the range, and at it was more than one black's camp. About one mile lower down than where we crossed the Alice, was a range on the right bank, which I have named Mount Rodney, after one of my Murray men. As all tliree creeks met there, I expect there must be a large quantity of water at the foot of it. (Camp No. 17.) The two tributaries both flow through acacia (gorrt) scrub for the last five miles ; but where we have camped the country is more open with promise of improvement. It will be observed that we have seen very little permanent water, but by following down the watercourses into the valley which lay to our right the last two days, I ■would expect to find abundance. Monday, 14th October.—Made an excellent start at 8.30 ; the first two miles the country was more thickly covered with the acacia than suited me, and as we now had hit the creek again I crossed it and travelled parallel to it for 1^ mm. 60 deg. W. of N. by compass. The country now opened, and I resumed my N.N.W. compass course; at the end of two miles crossed the other creek, and two milps more brought its to the summit of the downs ridge which seperates the watershed of the Alice from that of the Thomson. Some low ranges were seen to the east about five or six miles off, and a small one on the downs, to the west about three miles is probably where the two creeks we have left take their rise. Ten miles more over the downs, and as we descended stony plains, brought us to a beautiful river running W. by N. This, which is no doubt a tributary of the Thomson, I have called the Coreena. Mr. Gregory, when he left the Thomson, says that the river is formed by the small watercourses emanating from the sandstone ridges ; had I swallowed that I would not have ventured where I am now. Just ahead of us, about ten miles, we have seen the smoke of blacks travelling and burning the grass as they go (against the wind), they are evidently going up another river towards the range. This is splendid sheep country. I have no doubt that many of the holes in the Coreena are permaneut; but it is not possible to tell which, as that river has not long ceased running. It floods occasionally about a quarter ofa.mile.on each side except where the downs approach the bank, which they do about 1J- ° above the Camp No. 18". The gum trees look as if drought were a complete stranger to them, so fresh and healthy looking are they. Tuesday, 15th October. —This day was one of disappointment, for the boy Jemmy Cargara returned at 1.30 without three of the horses which lie had been seeking since daylight. This is the first time he has failed. I now sent out three men on horseback, and they returned with the horses at three. Shortly after I had unsaddled the remainder, Coreen Jemmy and Patrick reported having seen the tracks of a considerable number of horses. I sent Mr. Macaiister, Mr. Haughton, Jingle, and Coreen Jemmy, to examine them, they returned and reported there was no doubt of the tracks; that they were very old, and had been there near a fine lagoon about two miles above my camp and in wet weather., Aneroid 295. (To be continued.) Tub Inundations in Austria.—Among the curious incidents ol the inundation it is mentioned that in some places the water subsided so suddenly that the large Daunbian fish were caught and remained on land, and the peasants went fishing in the fields. An instance is cited of a fish weighing 461b. having been captured in this manner. Hibernating animals have been disturbed from their winter sleep, and in a communication to a Hungarian paper it is stated that large snakes were seen making there way over the fields to escape the advancing waters. Here, in the immediate neighbourhood of Vienna, we have the singular novelty of a town not only under water, but under ice. Persons accqnainted with Vienna will remember the Au-garten, with its long straight walks and tall hedges of clipped trees, and also the waterside meadows known as the Briggittenau, on a portion of which stands the outer suburb, or large adjacent village of the same name. A considerable part of this place is now covered with ice on a level in some places with the roofs of the houses. To-day a rapid thaw is going on, but up to yesterday the ice was fully four or five inches thick, and in parts still thicker. In some of the streets one could walk several hundered paces over a firm icy surface. Most of the inhabitants had abandoned their dwellings; but to others who remained snpplies were conveyed up to very recently upon sledges. In neighbouring fields, were the waters nave subsided, birds of prey, and even oxes, have been observed feeding upon the carcases of the cows, goats, and the pigs, which the flood surprised and drowned. — Letter■ from Vienna. _

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