THE REVIEWER.

Oamaru Mail, Volume IV, Issue 952, 7 May 1879, Page 2 (Supplement)

THE REVIEWER.

" A FEW HINTS HOW TO MAKE GOOD BUTTER." In our last issue we briefly mentioned that we had received from the publisher, Mr. Burrett, of Wellington, a pamphlet by Mr. J. H. Monrad entitled "A few Hints how to Make Good Butter." The writer, who appears to have been an old colonist, introduces the subject by saying that on his return to the Colony, after having worked at and seen some of the best dairies in Denmark and Sweden, where the returns from dairy produce is becoming a very important part of the farmer's revenue, he was very much astonished by the fluctuating prices for butter. This he in part aocounts for by the custom so generally followed of letting cows calve at spring, but in the main he attributes the fact of butter fluctuating so Greatly in price to the manner in which it is made, the article as at present manufactured in very many instances not keeping for winter use. How far the writer is correct in this statement every housewife knows, for good butter, or even moderately good, is the exception, and not, unfortunately, the rule, and, though no doubt few of our farmers will care to acknowledge the fact, we must certainly say that successfid makers of really good salt butter are, like angel's visits, few and far between. Too little real thought and attention is given to butter makings it is too frequently entrusted—in part, if not wholly—to incompetent hands ; and it is tp.o ctften looked upon in the light of a duty to be performed in "sparo time," This, as Mr. Monrad says, is "what ruins the butter." The operation of butter making must, to be successful, be thoroughly understood, and there must be available every appliance for carrying out the work upon regular and W'elldefined principles. butter making, unaccompanied \\y the upmost care in milliiflff. skimming, churning, and working, with the necessary concomitants of a good dairy and proper appliances, cannot result satisfactorily. The writer of the pamphlet before u?, having made inquiries as to the manner in which many treat the milk, says:—"l have strong cause to believe that a few hints on butter making \YQVud be welcome to inexperienced dairymen, and, I flatter myself, thafc those who know how- to make good butter will be able to find a useful hint." Believing with trie writei that a few hinfcj on the subject wiil prove acceptable and of value to many engaged 111 butter making, and finding much of a useful nature in the pamphlet under review, v, c purpose making some extracts faan it. The writer after running tu the injurious effects wijieh over-feeding of the cows upon certain aliments in older countries has upon butter, start 3 with the assumption that in this country cows' feed consists of English grasses, or hay made from them, and here he recommends every settler to make a little liav for winter use, remarking that a little hay given at best in the stock-yawl or m a half open shed where the cows can get shelter will well reward the trouble." "Where the cows," he says, "are obliged to have a recourse to the bush for feed, the butter may get a bitter taste from some of the leaves, however good they may be for fattening bullocks." Food, as all must acknowledge, exercises a very powerful influence upon the milk, and cow?) intended for dairy purposes muai: therefore have a plentiful supply of good wholesome food, free from anything calculated to have a deleterious effect upon the milk. I.his is one oi the first points to be considered, as, notwithstanding that the utmost care may be exercised in every operation connected "will. butter making, complete success cannot be obtained if the milk acquires any baneful influence from the food upon which the cow is maintained. After, in a preliminary manner, referring to the necessity for not letting the calf suck, for cleanliness in the stock-yard, for the milKer washing his hands and the teats of the cow before starting milking, for using the cow kindly and patiently, fcr obtaining the last drop, because otherwise the best of the milk is left and the cow caused to run dry, and for as nearly as possible having the same milking hours daily, the writer proceeds to give some hints which we will give in full : The dairy, even if it be only Bft, by 10ft., ought always—l. be well separated from any other "room that may emit any kind of odour, as for instance kitchen, bedroom, &c. 2. It must be situated at a good distance from the stock-yard, calf-shed, and pigsty ; and, if possible, have some other building or trees to keep the sun away towards north. 3. It. must be well ventilated, though without draft, and under no circumstances be used for any other purposes whatever. 4. The windows ought to face south, never north. Everything in the dairy must be scrupulously clean. As a rule I believe tin dishes are used in New Zealand, and the milk is. allowed to stand 36 to 4S hoxirs in the dishes. Observe carefully™!■ To strain the milk immediately after milking (even if it has been strained in the stock-yard), best through a double-strainer, say very fine metal wire (being easier to clean than horsehair), and a fine linen fixed by a loose metal ring underneath the strainer. 2. Not to let the depth of the milk exceed two inches. 3. Take care that no draft is putting the surface in motion, thereby retarding the rising of the cream. 4. Not on any account—even in winter—to let the milk stand more than 36 hours. 5. Under no circumstances let the milk got sour before it is skimmed ; this may happen even before 12 hours standing, unless a good brick dairy is provided. To let the cream get sour before churning is a very difiicnlt operation that requires Teat care. A temperature of /Q to 75 decrees is considered the best, and sometimes a little of the last buttermilk, sometimes a little sour milk, is added to hasten the operation. Do not on any account let the cream get too sour (thick or lumpy), but churn as soon as it is like syrup, or when it covors the wooden spade (for stirring it with) with a coatlilce of varnish. The temperature of the cream varies with the season and the construction of the churn, and it is only by a careful use of the thermometer that the best heat will be found to suit the different circumstances, yet I will recommend as a general rule to try 52 to 57 degrees. If there is no room round the churn, for hot or cold water, put the cream-can into a tub with hot (not more than 100 to 120 degrees) or cold water, but do not put any water in the cream ; it may often make it foam, and retard the formation of butter. The speed for turning the churn varies according to the construction—for hand churns generally 50 or 60 turns in the minute, barrel churns less; the large vertical churns, for horse or stewn power, require 120 or 200, But whatever speed may be found the best, a uniform motion is essential to get butter in the specified time. How often is pot the unfortunate man or woman seen turning, now desperately quick, now despondingly slow, varying .with the humour of the moment, and the result is generally that butter is not got 111 one—in two hours? Yes, J remember myself in

olden times turning for three hours, and then I did not get any butter. I had to console myself with the old German saying, " When it won't butter it don't butter or, by believing it was "bewitched." It may nevertheless safely be said, as a rule, that if all the above conditions are rigidly observed butter must be had, say in at least 40 minutes. A common fault is to churn too long, whereby the butter becomes "greasy." As soon as the butter globules are visible pour some cold water, or better, cold skimmed milk into the churn, and a few slow turns will gather them into lumps of the size of a large pea. The butter is then taken up with a strainer. It must never be left any time in the buttermilk, but taken out at once ; neither must the buttermilk be left in the churn for any time. The " washing" of the butter is commonly used in France, Holland, and other places, but there is no doubt that the peculiar fine flavor is thereby lost. Practical trials seem to imply that when the buttermilk is worked out well, without "washing," the butter will keep quite as well, if not better; however, the opinions arc divided, and when it is hot and no ice can be got, I will recommend to give it a few seconds washing out in cold water, done by "pressing" it, not "rubbing," with a little wooden spade. Then take it out, work most of the buttermilk out, and salt it well with 3or 4 per cent, fine salt. This is done by dividing the whole in lumps of about two or three pounds ; press these flat, strew a layer of salt on them, and put them on top of each other ; work it well through so that the salt gets well mixed up ; put the butter oil a wooden or clviua plate in a bucket with a lid on, and put this in cold water if it is hot weather. As soon as the butter is pretty stiff, work it well' that the last buttermilk may come out, but not too much, which will make the butter "greasy. If now the butter is meant to keep for winter use, about 2 or 3 per cent.—sometimes in France even 6 per cent. —more salt is added, and the butter is packed down at once. If a cask cannot be filled in,, say, two or three ehurnings, a very good plan is to have several smaller s,tofts, jars ; these are filled well, and qo,vere:l with a good layer of salt—some, prefer brine—on top. hen a snfn.oi<mt quantity is gathered, take it out I and work it well together, so that the contents of all the jars form a uniform matter before putting it in the The cask must be well washed with boiling water, and rinsed with cold water, and the sides well strewed with salt, while a thick layer of a quarter to half an inch of salt is covering the bottom. A clean linen rag of the sii-o of the bottom is put on top of the salt, and the butter is pressed well down that no room is left for the air. Covq? the top with a like piece of linen, a\\d atrcw plenty of salt on top. Close the cask well, and keep it in as cool a piace a,s can be hsvd without dampness, reverse the cask wow and then, once a week.

The writer concludes his hints with general instructions as to care being taken in keeping everything scrupulously clean, and recommends everything connected With butter making being washed anoo a week with a solution of soda. No.- doubt much that the writer aay& is. but a repetition of venerable and many will doubtless aay that they knew all these things long ago. But old aa the hints given may be, they are such as will if properly followed—and they are not heeded at present —lead to the manufacture of butter worthy of the name—butter that will be pleasant to the palate and agreeable to the stomach of consumer, and a credit to fee makar.