A New Dawn Breaks For Frilly Femininity

NZ Truth, Issue 1180, 12 July 1928, Page 2

A New Dawn Breaks For Frilly Femininity

DESIGNERS have discovered something strange and fascinating— a new way of obtaining "that slender effect. " Instead of the straight, unbroken line, they are using broken curoes, unexpected fullnesses, and, generally, irregularity. '^ Moreover,; the frilly styles return, Poiret'span' ialettes, notwithstanding. /^HERIE, — Here we are, In the middle of February, and \J if. we were young men, our fancies would be turning v to thoughts of love.- Instead;'" as we are merely women, clothes are uppermost m our minds. For although winter is still officially with us, there is a certain clemency m the air which allows us to hope for better things. And they do say that m the Square des Vosges, where tourneys were held m the time of Henry II.; a certain frivolous tree 1 has little green buds on it. • \ So the Springtime, tra-la-la; is near. And what is ...•"' more beautiful than the Springtime, m Paris? Anything: .'■•''. may happen m that blessed season of hqipe — anything ,from picking a greyhound winner to the acquisition of some xinclaimed treasure. v " , The fashion shows are like the brook. They go on for ever. Jean Lanvin supplied the best thrill of the week. After Poiret.'s .trouser parade, the soft .femininity of Lanvin's styles soothed pur outraged feelings and restored our faith m the efficacy of frillies. . For some years past, the 'name of Lanvin has been associated m the minds of most with wonderful "period", frocks) or robes de style,;made of taffetas and tulle, with full bouffant skirts, quaint little shoulder capes, and- em-' broideries of steel and strass. But a new type of taffetas frock has appeared, which to my mind will prove a.seriou s rival to the popular robe de ; " : This type 'of frock appears m f""^. j^^b^ . , satin, taffeta, or even m organdie, •(X with incrustations, of blue and pink. ■. ElBS&S! Pv One of -the loveliest was m two • • imßUf\J^ shades of dahlia! '. The : frock itself ' wnOf w.as m a deep -shade of pink, made /TJJHk^L^ with a tight body without any trim- / W&P /**\ ming. A huge bow of silk perche.d at / /W£[ J flj the back of one hip, ■ and the hem // H^ had a ruche of the same material. . st* M§m 0 But-that's not all. Sixior eight // TmT inches belbw the hem, hung an :\J I JB& , underskirt, also: rlichec| r of the C 1 ff\ < color of a deep red. dahlia. These - f j ' Jf, Jfi . .•: two shades -together, were ex- *• quisite. • Lanvin loves black and white, and that old friend of v our grandmothers, Ottoman silk,- is freely used for ensembles. A .long,' full coat of this, had a full lower sleeve and narrow collar, and rev.ers of white, worn over, a black "penguin" frock with a white "chemisette" front, buttoned with plain black buttons. . _ _ Braid is used quite a 10t... One^hite coat wag so covered with, black braid that the white ground was practically invisible., . • ■ ..•.„. wKt . White corded silk suits are shown with pale pink georgette blouses.. White wool bands are used to trim black coats and jackets^ White coats of heavy wool for sports wear show pipings of black, and very often a, wide black patent leather belt, /Afternoon frocks have a very wide. belt of suede, or of the same material as the frock. i ' • ' i . " : „ . A new arrangement of the popular 'kerchjef was interesting. It hung ' loosely below the neck at the back with a little upstanding' edge.

A charming little frock of yellow tujle had.o.ne of these "hankies" m yellow net embroidered m gold paillettes. . ." . . Jane Renourdt, one of our best-known /actresses, wore on the night of Lanvin's dress parade a delightful frock of black taffetas. The body was, quite plain black, cut across, with the slenderest of slender black straps over the ° U The "skirt was very full, gathered at. the waist, and fell very low at the back. The front panel- was cut quite short showing the pink-clad legs almost to the knees. The whole of the hem was trimmed with a band of rucnings almost ten widis, m pink taffetas. A floating panel at the side ended m a large pink ruched muff, through, which the, wearer slipped her arm: _ , A conclusion to be drawn from .a general view, of the .new fashions is that, two distinct silhouettes have been evolved. by the great dressmaking firms— the slender, slim line, and the bouffant frilly, fluffy variety. But the slender line does not necessarily imply, that the straight, unbroken line is being' used./ On the contrary, to attain the slender effect, designer^ are employing broken curve's, unexpected fullness m the back or at the hips, vague outlines/frequent sharp points and complete irregularity of lines. By these means/which seem to be m. utter contradiction to what wo have always been taught, they attain astonishing .results m svelteness and slimnesa. Some designers declare that these clever, gowns fortell a return to frills, furbelows, and exaggeration m the female. fomyd.ivine. But others, and they are more numerous, contend that the fashions must follow fhe modern trend when woman cannot afford to be hampered m any way They affirni that the modern silhouette will remain spf-tly and beautifully feminine, but practical. Phew! Arefi't we getting '-aljstiitis'e? . • ' ■ .• . Anyhow, no one can accuse the modern woman/Of 6#er-dressing. For if the mid-yictorian dame with her crinoline, monopolized the wool of two sheep with which to clothe her fair body, the 1928 lady Would sqp.rcely"keep two selfrespecting silk- worms ma. permanent job. '.-" /'V;- :; ' ' ' .'. - '■ ■■■■•. : *■••■•■'■ Y Ours# ■ . '.;;,£& AHSfIAN. . '. .'• ■ ■•. ■-■ '' ' ••" i .. ■;■ ;■■: -^';-v- y . : v ' ;