Frills and Furbelows

New Zealand Times, Volume LIII, Issue 12609, 20 November 1926, Page 15

Frills and Furbelows

THE LATEST FROM PARIS

By

PAULINE COURLANDER

All Right* Reserved

Long lines, but more fullness! Such is La Mode's decree as illustrated in Paris now. The corsage follows the lines of the figure, and the all-essen-tial air of graceful slimness is considerably helped by the use of long roll collars witli rovers, or skilfullyfashioned scarf collars. But the increased fullness is indubitably a fait acoompli. Skirts allow considerably more freedom of movement, thanks to the adroit treatment of panels and pleats, which are introduced without disturbing the straight and narrow line, so dexterously is all extra material concealed. * * • *

Broderie anglaise scallops adorn many of the smartest ‘’model” gowns. Fringe, too, has returned conspicuously to favour, but is used with infinitely more artistry than of old. In lovely colourings, it is often the making

of a simple evening frock. Afternoon frocks fashioned of soft fabrics lend themselves beautifully to the new drapery effects that owe their graceul charm to exquisitely fine tucking and gathering, and maintain a quite attenuated slimness in the process, This is really one of the miracles of modern dressmaking skill —the introduction of ornamental draped effects that emphasise rather than detract from sylph-like lines. These frocks, in the georgette and ninon and chiffon categories, hold one’s interest so aj>s»rbingly that one is in-

dined to overlook, sometimes, the claim of more serviceable models that have, nevertheless, thsir own pronounced chic. The darker tones which the Parisienne loves for daytime wear have their usual prominent place in tho scheme of things, but the sumptuousness of the materials lends a certain magnificence to the most practical models. * • * •

In the realm of evening toilettes, the all-round cape reappears, cut in the old circular fashion that, after all, has many ‘ ‘points’ * to recommend it for wear over a delicate gown, The new models are usually trimmed with feathers, and aro gorgeously lined. A large adjustable collar can lend width to the shoulders, or cosily envelop the neck, at the wearer’s will. One of the loveliest examples I have seen was of sapphire-blue velvet bordered with marabout dyed exactly to tone* and intermixed with silvery fronds. The huge bolster Collar was similarly materialised.

An amusing pew powder-puff receptacle is the “Jack-in-the-Box” affair that consists of a gold or silver tube. You press a button at the end and out pops the puff. Emeralds, real and faked, are very much the vogue in Paris just now; so is green jade. Great lumps of jade are strung on delicate platinum and pearl chains, and jade or emerald “earrings” are suspended from beret hats; this is the new way of wearing the ear ornament now that the “eniphone” coiffure is so much the mode.

Skull caps are the newest adornment of the dance-night shingle. I have seen them in gold and silver tissue, and in a chain-mail design. But whatsoever the fabric that fashions them, the skull caps have one point in common: the hair is completely covered, some of the models having ear tabs cut en pointe. Sillc floss wigs are also enjoying a new lease of life, pure white being an easy first in favour, though a bright cerise one was not unattractive with an allblack evening toilette worn by a mag-nolia-skinned brunette. • - « • One of the latest evolutions of tho shagreen craze that still prevails in Paris is to be seen in cuff-links. These lost are ?n great demand as the result of dthe now sleeve vogue for jumpers and frocks. Coral, jade, onyx, and enamel, are also shown; but shagreen is the pet of la mode.