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THE WEST COAST DISTRICTS.

,'' ,<■■■!■; ; / .f.y,,:, / r'-J;»':' .li.--,.-; . -Oi --' j . i. .Jt will be*'se'&''that 1 - T:'have l made a change' in the-heading hrider whjch these letters (have; : appeared." 1 ;",' This; ; is h in,;'consequence : of!'" my having of jcoriaddition to th'e^Ewgitiksi-Manawatu, .district,:; to take'iri tba't ; lyirig' ; aiohg' the' West'Cpast as> far ;if tiriieipermit,"to ialso.; includethe Wairar'apa" and East' Coast. !One; most pi^asarit^featufe'-in -any . what, prpyirice of Wellington,.is| the domparisonjybu are" enabled to make between, the apparent'-Condition'*' of' portions ;of j the country at ! toreserit and : their boriditipn some. ' .jpa'slt.; I Nbwherfe jdoes'' such a cornparison ' give 11 , more" gratifying results than in the neighborhood of '-Marton,. on the road leading.te Wellingt'bri.: * I ha:d travel over this road some'four years arid not being u'nob-.,' servant -at the time .can now bear witness to the improved'cpriditlbh-'of-the farms-and of settlementialong it." More:.especially.isjthis; noticeable arpund : a very* pretty part of the road, called'BbhriyGleri; but I may say that right into Turakina the remark applies. .Tvtra;--kina is sbme\niri6 miles from Marten, ;arid, about twerityiiriUes farther on wureach what is the chief town of all the portion of the coast that I have been travelling over— .;..'. '"■!'/."'.'"' ,''' i "; .':'"''WAN(}Alrtji. : i ■ ."'' • j '-.-.': ''This'town and/district forrri "historiqal"i ground in the records of. New Zealand coloni.zation. In nis well/written work, the youthful; promise of/which' has L iot; been fulfilled, Mr. E. jyWak'efield'telis us'a great deal about; the earlier settlement'of k W*aiiganuL It was here lived a. wpnderfully gentlemanly,andin r general and Mr: Waker, field there -was'mutuafffiendship,* and of wliomi a.mpre recent, .writer tells how the old.rariga-. tirir 'bribe) "febdibg^.,with,,' his", own': harids. a ' Maori " whoiri>"tfie'';perfprniance ' of - certain •funeral'cerembriies had rendered iaprijdbtebted 'the.irreligi'ouß wretbhj'sri'atehing and con,veying . tp : his ; : mbuth. 5 X ;p f l chbice' .'morsel which he feared the chief might Overlook. Thri Maori gentleman tbbk'rib apparerit 'notice at the time, but presently invited the tapuedjonei 'to accompany him on a .walk, and so soon as' Out-'of isight ! atid'hearirig of their paj-;-the,! mbsti>Bacred customs •• turned>swiftly on .the: offender, drove a'tomahawk deep irito his brainy, and dropped him-in his-tracksV ■"■■i'- "■ [ , Arid after^these;' tVe-'classic' days' of Mapri.dorii,'came the tunes-when SBttlenient was-ac-coiipanied by war) and'^when,'as:^.he-block-: houses still standing on the-sandhills'show, the colonists metaphorically resembled the nation 'rif bldfthe men of which went armed .with |the: ;plough. But it'-is riot with, the painful t his(toryibf the past that -'"the special correspondent of to-day has to f doi ''The tale of mistakes and - 'riaisinanagement on the-European side;' of and cruelty on that of the Maori, has been too 'bfteri'tolbV- There is little fear nowadays that a morning will-bring news of a farmhouse attacked and women and children killed,! or thatthe .night - sky. will' redden a«-- roof -tree and rafter are givenitb the'flaines; ■" Wanganui preseryes'marks.of former-andtroublous times, but they, are: lost amidst the surrounding evidences of .peace and.prpsperity.u In fact, I question;whether in,the wholeiNorth Island there could be found-a more practical example of the times ..that were and the piping times of peace-that tare, than the chief town of our West Coast affords. At Korerareka,* at the Bay of Islands, it' Is true one may yet see. the shot-holes, in the church that tell of Johnny Beke's fighting days, and in the churchyard.'the • headstones record many; a death in battle. But there is no contrast jtp, this in a district-happily settled and rich tin :cultivation,".peopled': arid covered with flocks and herds, nor in a thriving town with all appliances and institutions of modern'city life. But at Wanganui, whilst the marks of fighting still stand, whilst in • ,the", graveyards are the headstones of many.' a 'regular soldier and volunteer who died not in their beds; arid whilst even,by the .'wayside are memorials jtp, the brave ; there is above and around all these, most happily blotting themput, or overshadowing them In the general view, the human hive that.civilised settlement .has .year by year enlarged,, the works which civilised settlement has accomplished, and the Christian churches which speak, of' peace: on. earth and goodwill towards men. ,' : ' ' .

" A' bird's-eye view of; Wang*nui is easily obtainable. It lies in the break of a;tableland, caused' by the-flow of -the Wanganui River' to" the sea. - 1 Standing ' on ' either tjie northern or southern edge of thin break, the town arid- the valley up the river for some' miles are at your feet. Old Maori tradition and the evidence of one's present senses attest that the site of WahganuTwas: at' one tiine the' bed of'an'Sstuary* by which -the river reached' the ocean. An upheaval and the Hubseijuept accumulation' Of' sarid 'i destroyed the estuary, arid sent the river ;burviric; ; ' beneath' some' bold' bluffs on the'southern 5 side; leaving W wide and sandy flat betweeri- it'arid the abrupt iiscent ( to the table-land on the northern side, and compelling thp river to seek, 'the 1 sea'by; 'its pr!e-, sent narrow" channel and somewhat .shallow ;' not unsafe -bar. Lying, in '-well- hud-put symmetry," with and regular * "the 'township of "Wanganui'maybe'siiidto takeia the whole jof this sandy-flat, which ! as building and settlement have progressed over it has become thick with ; good 'buudingi,» dotted in' many placies with 'trees', arid covered wherever space was t; between the' houses with green sward; gay •flower fruit'- trees, and vegetable patches. 'The '■■ river, a 3 Thave said, runs vol a curve between the town and some high bluffs opposite it, 'to l brie Of which some old country patriot has given the name, without imparting the altitude,"pf Shakspere's Cliff r cation ■ with -the • southern bank 'of the river Is maintained by the handsome iron bridgej wi(;h cylinder p'iers, which' has "been 'described some thousand and one 'tiihes, which Is to-"Wanganui what St. Peter's isjtp"Rome'or'.the dry dock' is to'Port 'Chalmers. • : Like many other great; or useful Works,; the bridge is susceptible of improvembnt,'not on its-original design" but in its present appearance ■ 'and the- care taken of It." Frpm : both : a picturesque and a 'utilitarian point of view-it stands sadly iririebd of a coat of paint.- It'has been for soriie time ; in the care of the Town Cbuiicu, and it is gratifying to know: that the question of piintirit; it has formed the subject'.of ananiriiated discussion,' and has called forth as much municipal elpquence as have the Bulgarian atrocities. The bridge, however, has now become the property Pf the Harbor Board elected, last Monday, arid as the members- ! Pf thatbody, I believe, have pledged themselves to paint, it, and preserve the intere.Htß entrusted to their charge, all may yet be well.

The bridge leads directly from the south country, from which the river would otherwise cut off Wanganui, into the main street jof the town, an open and handsome one,. Victoriaavenue. The town has the advantage, besides being on pretty level ground,; of being laid out after the. most .modern fashion, in. rectangular blocks, formed; by Btaeets. nmnirig parallel to each .other' - from. :the river ,up '. to the base of ,; the . again by, streets dinning, east 'Jandjwest.;. Victoria-avenue';' contains many; . pointed ' shops,'; the buildings of bants doing business iii the towj^aird'onfe side is a street' of for being, front ari ,up to requirements of the place. JEhere"'*aTe fdur' oif, these, places of. woraiip—that;r\>f7fte'; jibber, the care ;.pf. the*E&v;. Tudor ; ;f th'e'^pmah,Catholic,* ' thei .'lte.v..'' ty&; |B,ev. . Treadweil; 'an<j Wesleyan,:'the Kev.';Beiivan T The rental %luati6^:V|.Wanganui',' f9£'' ! 1p75>7 was' £3'4;ooo}j °fr. there a general rate; iki is.,;iri;'the £,. of ' some telsp6; a special, rate for. paying. Interest onmpriey'bprro'wed for public works of Ijs. in 'the 41- 'in .the £ was :requiredj. and ,the' o)>ur\ciV .having •' now.. ;complete'd a watefr extent,' a "water rate is levied'oh jthe percentage according to .vaitfatipn preseribed' by,the Municipal iCorr •pdrations Act of last' session. ' There'. are from eight to ten, miles of streets metalled or made I fit for traffic, a'rid.the town contains fully 500 J 1 houses,; and has closely approach- j ing 4000. The town area is 640 acres; but including the town belt; which.'runs from the iriver I and around the northern side," and,the face-., course,t\vlnehis:a public reserve, the absolute municipal area is -1000 acres.r-'MivWatt one of the oldest and most enterprising ofj the, • Great natural facilities; t exist>for afforamg. a water supply. These been fully! .tekenadvanUge',p|,;ibr«sc> far as they have,; 'be ! e4 utilised''hajVe they b,een utilised in; the ; best'; manner. Nevertheless the. benefits ponfprreaby the water supply already'afforded under municipal; management are very gf eat. About a mile from the: centre of the city, to the iorth, at a 'good elevation, is'a, natural reservoir; knowing,Virginia;.Water, with a surface area of twenty acres, and of consider: J able depth," as'much as* 78ft.'in places. It is, formed'!by, .'a great deposit;of) clay, .which naturally alines; a! hollow, and collects and.; returns the - surface-water that - in similarly shaped hollowsin. its immediate" neighborhood i percolates and ' escapes -through the sand, : of; j which the 'country•hereabouts mainly consists, ; At a cost of £14,000' the ' Town : Council connected this reservoir .with the town, andidistribute* its supply by means of some seven miles of pipes. Poor Millar/ V.S.A., ,was Town Engineer almost until the completion of the'works; and the Cduricil.being as independent a> body' as .Councils usually are; ;and Millar being Millar, : a' severance of the connection : between l; the parties occurred, which, in regard-' to the water supply, has: not been attended by the happiest results. 'Millar i* proposed to f takethewater from the lake by means'of a species'of' gigantic'syphon, which under the' control of ; thelaws of' natural science would; untilthe water lowered to a'certain point, ; keep itself and the pipes full, and need no pumping! But Pn : Millar's' departure a new plan* was adopted. The supply; "pipes ; as ; they'- 'ne'aredi.' the reservoir 5 were' kept j on a 7 gentle'' slope, -.'and; were'/conducted into the" lake' on a'geritte' siope"' v iri' the opposite directions : - The result.is that they do not keep themselves full, and that a ; pump had to be erected Kght T ifi the middle of the main road to 1 the'north', :i 'which here skirts end of the 'lake,'' and'at'which relays of men work like horses' at* intervals,- being coveredby a primitive canvass' which flaps in the 'wind and .frightens'passingi animals/ 'J saw a gen-, tlemari *• contemplating the remains of a buggy and-holding'a horse, upon which a few fragnienfa"of- harness remained,' whilst' he ad-' dressed;;Apace-;-in ; Spontaneous and strong j •eloquence, arid'gaVe 1 , his;, opinion of the scion-; : .tificideM which had" entered into the existing;! planS'forsuppiyihg';Wahgariui with'water. ,1 havesaid scheme is; at present incomplete;'but, I did,'riot'refer; to matter^ f jusl- mentioned, onwhich" ; there, are doubtless divergent ideas, and with regard to which'! can- offer of Pourse no professional but irierely an observant opinion. The "cause of! ihcompletton is When. Virginia Lake was taken-as'to the source of supply; the' authorities' had 'riot 'calculated on ...tyvo things '\ ■'■ a "claiin, for compensation, by- the owner of the property, or the nature of the lake. The claiiri for 'compensation is to ;be ! settled by a court of law, and consequently can only be afforded mention here. The nature of'the lake is the chief matter.' Virginia Water is, ; as I have said, practically; a mere collection' of surface-water, and until it was used as a gigantic tank for the town, kept ia' pretty, equal level- under the operation jof natural.' laws. 'But since art has assisted nature, the water has been; found to halve decreased steadily, and at a rate quite sufficient to-, create; a justifiable dread for the future. Anotheplake, into and out of which a perennial streamlet runs, lies to the westward, and Mr. Watt, the owner, has, in the spirit which it would be, well if all colonists displayed, freely,giftedithis to. the,town. An expenditure of £9OO or £IOOO will connect this latter, Lake Westmere, with Virginia Water, when Wanganui will have a water supply which no town in the colony will be able to approach by way of comparison. .; ■ A company to supply the town with gas has been formed. The capital is £IO,OOO, i with power to increase to £20,000. Nearly all the shares are taken up, and the necessary plant is almost daily expected by a small vessel, the Mosquito, which,, has sailed from . Liverpool direct.for Wanganui. ~;.-; __ ■' I The public buildings and churches of Wan- | ganui are as arule erected exactly.where the original plan of the town designed that they should not be. This plan, signed P.-Dillon Bell, and dated 1846, is that nowiused by; the municipal authorities, and excepting the circumstance already mentioned is for all practical I purposes quite correct. The Court House and Town and County Chambers,,as wellas the Athenteum or Literary Institute,-.are in the iharket-place, the place assigned to them in the map, but each is exactly in that part of the square afo- initio appointed for the other, whilst the police station, gaol, &c.-, are in quite different - spots from thosei intended-—the, old. blockhonses oil a sandWll used f or the latter. ; The principal uses i to which the market-place - (I cannot call it, a square, seeing that;it is a j triangle); are at; present put, are for the tern- j porary ■,, lodgment of trayellinsr:.. Maoris, the drying of under" garments, the parade of s the site of a very v pretty, mpnumeiit Riiniper, of native allies; who, fell ,for; tl>e; the growth of j a magnificent prop pf,docks., ■;.-■?.. ' ~i , '• '..- !■''■', i ; By thosCwho' noticed! the smaller events of last.sessiofc6f Parliament it will-be remem-' bered that a pretty lengthy debate occurred as , to alleged i mismanagement, i at. rather, want of managenierit, oi a'certain endowed or industrial school and trust in Wanganui. * The'larids held in trust for; the ! school comprise'a very large portion of the actual area within the municipal boundaries, and the circumstances'of the case were,if Iremember rightly, detailed and made the subject of .comment in the leading columns of the New Zealand Times. ' Since the close of, the'session the Church of England Bishop of Wellington; Bishop Hadfield, has visited Wanganui, andil arn nowririformed that streets are to be opened through~the trust property, and efforts made to develope it; or, in other words, to* procure from ittlie large rental'which itis asserted it should produce. '..This,;; of PoUrie, has nothing to do with' the position taken up by the members for Wanganui last session, and by : a large the citizens, * that the tnist Bhould.be utilised, in the interests of ;;the; 'general public, in a coriipletely undenominational manner, and not as attached to a, particular reli^ious , se)ct. t ,.' , . ~ .'.;.." ,„-,.. , ~,. , - ,', ' Three questions' just now'agitate the puMic miridia'WangariuL The destrtictiori by the river 'of a portiori'of its tank.'' The opposition offered by the same to' its own utility as a harbor at its mouth and for some miles above; and. the doubt as to "whether the town will b« connected by a branch line with the main railway, which crosses the river and passes north a couple of miles above the centre of the township. As to the first of these question*,

the river, a thorough New Zealand one, liabhv to heavy floods, shifting in its bourse, and treacherous, has worn away a great quantity of the bank on the town side, at a place .-called Taranaki-quay, where the current-impinges upon the sp'ecies of peninsula''which forms the town. Indeed sd destructive .has the Water been here which should be'a chain it^rfth,' 'is.barely half that. On the and ju'st below, the stream, turned ia'Aseburse by the. obstruction it has been endeavoring' to hiis so Worked upon a I roadway running at the base of a cliff, that certain protective work ihas 'been rendered necessary, -Hitherto the Town Council; have hadthe care of river conservation,, and though', some damage has been done there really seems little grqundfor apprehension that muchitaQre' 'will odcur,, A good deal of expenditure Has: been ■„. incurred, oyer -,£3000 I .was informed, and of this £IOOO was spent in one year;but I can assure the citizens jof .'Wanganui thait if they only-saw ,the ; imminent .danger. l tio the whole township of vßalcluthV.whieh.'thp. inroads - of. the Molyneux River.,- are causing, they ; ,would look upon: their own troubles as- • light; indeed., : The,,most judicious, and, effective protective work against ■ the ravages of the r>ver that has;been-., done, at Wauganuii;•'; has-been thei planting of willows;, and though subsequent to their the banks jiave been away, there is not wanting* evi-' dence.that in a short time.they will have quite 'conqueredthe current. ■ ■-.-■- .. ; ,: > .' , But; the .main topic at .Waaganui is "the harbor." Five or six years ago the river, ouce the bar was passed, was easily navigable by the; vessels,and steamers capable of. passing over the bar. Since-;that time, however, < a series of floods brought, down large: snags j and . formed an extensive Bhoal-about a mile below., the bridge. A' Harbor, Board* has been formed, andthe election of thoseof itsmembers who>do riot belong to it ex officio, was : the ..subject of .'much interest; on Monday, lasfc-Now, two .subjects will, present'themselves to ,this i Board, ilfirst, what canbeieasily and not ex-i. I, pensively, accomplished, the, improvement of the navigation of the fiver itself.-All that is ' wanted in..this < : direction:is, some -, dredging work, and the'removal of a couple of shags,j and . thesubsequea t employment of a dredge whenever necessary to prevent, the work done being ren'-j dered useless. There is a proposition for making' the; channel deeper byreclaimingaportion of the shoal, and so narrowing- the driver, but ;tjiose who : advocate,- this /course should \, remember that all,reclamaiioh must, tell upon the ;quan-' ; ' itityof. water passing through the,;;heads, hud must have, its .effect, in lessening';the. scour- , which keeps thebar ,as;.it is.- But thereis' placed before theiHarboriißoard bynofc $. ifew* a further work, namely/ the improvement of; J;he;iiver mouth to such!an extent as to render, it available ,.■ to foreign,,.shipping ; in other; words, to,make Wanganui, obtain its gdodsfrom the Home country, direct. , I am" awarethat in writing of this, topic I am tquchingdahgerbus; ground,-; and risking the treacling upon, corns in a metaphorical sense. There seems to be an- impression that anyone from : Wellington wlio a'word In deprecation of; the scheme that would endeavor to make Wanganui iaccessible^to large ships, must be actuated by jealousy or fear", of rivalry be-tween-^Wellington; and ■ Wanganui. Such is not my case. -The simple ; fact in regard to such wolks as would enable Wanganui to trade ' direct with'' Home ' is that they are not wdrth •■ undertaking. ■ In-' the first .place, their cost, even ■ if- they could -be' carried out, wkich ; is l problematical,, would be something enormous,; and would not be justified, nor see the interest on 1 their capital cost, eveji if the most sanguine- expectations as to' trade were realised.; Next*, even supposing that after, : a>gigantic expenditure ; Wanganui, were'rqn--dered ■ accessible ; by Home' 'shipping, it is a matter ; of' considerable doiibt 1 if "Home shipping'- would come;- Even if the ; district wjere magnanimous enough - to remit all; harbor charges and 1 make some : other resource pay the' interest,on the cost of deepening perma--; nently the-entrance tp ! the river, .still thfere" would remain the' faot- that the extra freight, and extra'insurance-'charged for coming (to Wanganui would-make Jt absolutely'cheaper to' ship';goods ;from Home to Wellington, and ttnence by- steamerto Wangaitui, 1 than to ship '< them'tb the latter port direct. ; . Let it be remembered, in Wellington transhipment charges are abolished; that 'Wellington"-is; accounted as safe a port as any in New Zealand to enter; that the bulk of the trade must eeme to her,. and that the despatch of a ship to Wanganui would be regulated by purely local.- wants—that is to ; say the wants of a fine, but'by jno means limitless, 1 district; whereas shipment j to Wellington means shipment to a dozen-other places. The fact that in the case of the plant for the local gas works it has been found cheaper to despatch a small vessel from'England ito Wanganui direct, does not in l ihej 1 least tajke away from the force' of what I ;h'ave T An ■ exception but • pro ves the' tulei • But there is much good- and- useful work J tq' ; be accom-.' plished by the Harbor Board ifj instead j of aiming at what is next to impossible,-they will accomplish that which is quite practicable, and offer ■ every possible 1 facility for : the large coastal trade; of ".which Wanganui'must be always-the-centre, and which- could easily make her quite -as important a' place as Wellington. : Thei bar at present is'a good and safe-one for steamers drawing ten, or' even' twelve feet of-water, and'; the river-above the bar only wants proper i care'to enable'.'vessels quite equal to 1 meeting all the requirements bf the place to come up to the town and'depart with safety.' In somewhat intimate ; connec- • tion with this matter is'tte extension of the : railway into the town; but'on that question; I propose to write when: describing the railway works themselves subsequently. ' ' : •"'■ ' ■' r,With the courteously rendered' assistance of Mr. Woon, the Collector of' Customs,'l aim enabled to present what after all should be by far' the most interesting and agreeable reading with regard to' Wanganui, namely, certain figures in connection, with her trade which show the extent and importance of the district of : which she is the port. The net Customs duties for the year ended December 30, 1876, were £24,703 10s. 6d. All other receipt's! were £338 >7s. 10d., or 'a total of £25,041 18s. 4d. The pilotage rates - for the samei period were £326 17s. lOd. The totjal value of of British and foreign goods! which' paid duty < or"'were' otherwise cleared at the Custom House ■ during the year'was £58,900.' It must be borne in mind, however, ;i that beyond' this:there:-should. be taken the value" of duty paid and free goods imported coast wise from * porta 'in the > colony,' duty upon which was'paid 'elsewhere; If one were "to"; judge-by the total; value of.ithe exports of'produce as -officially- recorded bf Wanganui for the year under notice,.no great impression would be made.''The value of thoke exports was £5, being the supposed) worth of | a ! package »f plants exported to Sydney; N.S.WV■But this sum' only represents^.the ""'produce -exi ported direct to Great Britain'ror the Australian Colonies, and is quite apart from exports ■coastwise.- Nearly L all the twool produced in the district is shipped coastwise to-Wellington for transhipment on board English ships, and augments the'apparent; value of' the exports from.' there. : How much* it augments that value may be judged when I mention: that the quantity and approximate value of the wool exported coastwise! from Wanganui duringthe year ended 30th December; 1876; was 5489 bales,'valued at £120,758. -Wanganui also does a'largetrade in the export of sheep and cattle. : During the' past- ydar 2290: cattle, valued at £22j900, and' 31,790 sheepj valued ax £19,074, were' exported ; and", these figures are not, it must be borne in mind,'inclusive bf the large number of. sheep and'cattle driven overland to Wellington for consumption there:' Whilst upon this subject it is "interesting to note'that 'in past years most of the sheep and cattle have been exported to the West Coast diggings of the Middle Island and to j Auckland ; but that the trade in the first: case has fallen-off, and in-the; latter-;hasi almost ceased, and that not from! causes to be-altb- | gather regretted.' Despite 'the Kumara"?tush ; the'export of cattle and 'sheep to the West Coast has so decreased that one of the steamers previously employed in the trade, the St. Kilda, is now and has been for some time past lying idle in the Wanganui Kiv'er. The fact is, that cattle and sheep are now driven overland from other portions of the Middle Island to the West Coast diggings, and so supply the demand there. In the case of

(Auckland, too, the TaUwOTi.fcp -the Waikat» and the opening up of communication with other out-districts, has enabled the places that should naturally Auckland to so supply h^r.' ; ; ; And,,\as I have said, 11 do not think -ttot'V thisi alteration from what was a somewhat Abnormal state of things is to be regretted. Dpjing,bß76 thete were exported from Wanganui, 121;horses (including stud hoJrses),,;bf a";v%p;df, £ifils. The tallow exports were The last figuresah connec'tion-withfche.trade of the r Port whicl» : 'l'-;<!an' givej'Bhowi|thatJdUring the Steamers))jof tons, and cleared s )oht#ards 551 vessels (3§4-:being "steanlers),'-oiE an aggregate tonnage;of . .•' '■■■■ ;''■' ■>

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https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/NZTIM18770208.2.34

Bibliographic details
Ngā taipitopito pukapuka

New Zealand Times, Volume XXXII, Issue 4955, 8 February 1877, Page 6

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Tapeke kupu
3,983

THE WEST COAST DISTRICTS. New Zealand Times, Volume XXXII, Issue 4955, 8 February 1877, Page 6

THE WEST COAST DISTRICTS. New Zealand Times, Volume XXXII, Issue 4955, 8 February 1877, Page 6

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