THE NEW AFRICAN EXPEDITION.

New Zealand Times, Volume XXX, Issue 4332, 6 February 1875, Page 2 (Supplement)

THE NEW AFRICAN EXPEDITION.

Mr. H. M. Stanley, who has gone out to Africa for the Daily Telegraph and Heio York Herald, thus describes part .of his journey up the river Kufiji in a letter dated from Zanzibar, October 19 : We were sailing gloriously along, and the Kisu chief and his violent people were left far behind. Bend after bend had been safely rounded, the mountains were seen more distinct when we suddenly stopped and half keeled over. Our deep helm was furrowing the sand at the stern, and the bow, though drawing but two feet, was fast. Extricating her from her position, we sought another spot, and after great difficulty managed to cross the bar. The sun was fearfully hot, and seemed to burn into our brains. The wind died away, and came only in cats’ paws. The current was not very rapid, as the river was broad at this place, but it was such laborious work with the oars that we had simply become subjects of derision to the jeering and hostile natives. However, we persevered, and with one sail hoisted we managed to creep along and make progress, though slow. Soon we were requested to halt a second time by the shore people, but we paid no heed, to them except to answer an occasional ques-* tion. The excitement was evidently growing along the shore, and our continued progress, despite all threats and commands, seemed to have plunged them into a stupor of rage. At one village a few miles above the larger settlements of Kisu, a friendly voice shouted out, “ You cannot go further with that big boat; there is no water ahead.” To which we answered cheerily that was precisely what we came to know, and we would try, and if not able to go ahead, we would return. About a mile above the village the river widened to about 300 yards. The low -shores seemed to be but dried saud-bauks, and right across from side to side the water rippled uneasily, with every indication of a stubborn bar. The guides as they looked at it said at once that we had come as far as we could go in the large boat. We pushed on, however, and went aground. We unshipped the rudder, hauled down the sail, and manned fourteen oars, and with vociferous chorus to the exhilarating boat-song, we plunged forward, one of the young Englishmen sounding ahead. Again and again we tried it, but of no avail. Over and over again we ploughed the sands and stuck fast. Above the sand-bar, which is about 200 yards in breadth, the river resumes its usual depth, but the navigation is impeded by sand-bars. After deliberating as to what had best be done, I concluded to return and explore the two other principal exits from the Delta, the Magambu and the Kikunia, and then visit Mafia Island, opposite the Eufiji delta, after which I should have expended all the time I could spare before commencing my march into the interior.

On descending the river the natives shouted. ont to ua, “ We know why the Wasunger have come np to Rufiji. You came here to find out about the slave trade—to catch the slave traders. Return, and tell the other white people that we will not have the slave traders troubled nor their road crossed.” One chief was so furious that he followed us for half a mile with his men, cursing us, and using the most violent language and gesture ; but, fortunately for him, he confined himself to this verbal dproonat.ration nf, .hostility. On the second day, we entered the ruagnr-" ficent Magamhu, alid eight hours after commencing the descent, arrived at the sea. Then setting sail, we sailed north again ; and two hours after, we entered the noble estuary of the Kikunia branch of the Delta, and before a vigorous breeze, and an incoming tide, sailed up the river once more, and at night anchored at the mouth of Pemba Creek. At noon the next day, we had entered the Simbo Oranga, and descended the stream to Sanuinga, where wo were greeted with kindness by the people ' of that island. Mafia Island we ascertained to be a most fertile island, abounding in palm groves and shambas or gardens. It is the third island in size within the Sultan's dominions. Situated opposite the Delta of the Rufiji, it seems as if placed by Nature at this position, as the entrepot of the mainland is hut ten miles distant. Ships of large tonnage could ride securely at anchor within 500 yards of Kismia Mafia, a place which the Admiralty charts absurdly call Kissomang Point. Were not my letter already of such great length, I could easily point out the advantages of securing a portion of the Mafia—say the district in the neighborhood of Kismia Mafia—as a place to plant a colony of freed slaves, from which locality, aftej- instruction and preparation, they might emerge as enterprising traders into the interior via the Rufiji River. ' But I must leave these remarks for some future letter-, for I must now hasten to give an unprejudiced opinion upon the value of our exploration of the Rufiji. Readers interested in African exploration in new commercial avenues may see for themselves what the Rufiji ia after reading this letter. It has. lost but little in rny estimation because I failed to ascend higher than Kisu in a boat built for ocean sailing. Had I possessed the Lady Alice, which Mr. Messenger, of Teddington, was building for me—and which has only arrived by this mail—l could have ascended, I believe, a couple of hundred miles, if not more, with my entire escort of armed men. For exploration, prudence requires that we shall be prepared for all contingencies—that there shall be men sufficient accompanying the explorer to enable him with few men to make a proper defence if attacked. Our gig would have conveyed eight men and a week’s -provisions, but she would not have made ns independent of the land, nor strong enough-to resist attack, which would have endangered the success of our great journey. As I look at the Lady Alice I find her a boat of sufficient capacity to convey up any river a force of twenty-five men with a month’s provisions, yet she draws but 12 inches loaded. She is 40 feet in length, 6 feet beam, built of best Spanish cedar in watertight compartments. A duplicate of this boat would enable any traveller to proceed up the Rufiji as far as any native canoe, after which the report of such man, on his return, of the navigability of the Rufiji would settle the question for over. In the meantime, no far as we have ascended, the Rufiji must be classed as a navigable river. Such a steamer as Sir John Glover possessed on the Volta, or one built after the model of an American river steamer, may proceed up the Rufiji with ease whenever any merchant should be found bold enough to enter on a promising African venture. Oar work of exploration also clears up the difficulties of annihilating the overland route of the slave trader. Steam launches, properly bnilt for river navigation, commanded by officers familiar with river navigation, assisted by guards procured at Samuga Island, may proceed either up the Magamhu or Simhoranga mouth of the Rufiji, and, towing up with them a few light fiat boats, loaded with coal, could anchor them at Imube, and, proceeding lightly loaded, could capture a few slave caravans, and bring down their proprietors to be punished at Zanzibar. Any naval officer, acting discreetly and energetically, could strike within four days » most effective and deadly blow at the land slave trade. Such a system of action at interval* of a fewweeks' could not fail to be followed by results which would gratify and astonish every one in England. Mafia Island, off Kismia, offers a capital rendezvous for the man-of-war during the absence of her launches, hut, if I may suggest anything from

my experience of this river, I would advise that those officers charged with this duty should consist of those who have experience, and who have volunteered for this important duty ; that one man-of-war should be appointed specially for this river work, properly equipped, with capacious steam vessel which mi"ht navigate this stream without detriment to “the good cause. A small _ stern-wheeler, which any English Thames shipbuilder could construct, drawing but eighteen inches of water, armed with one mountain steel sevenpounder and a couple of rocket tubes, with a crew of forty men, could for ever solve the problem of how to stop the East African slave trade. Captain Elton, in his official report to Capt. Pricleaux, acting political agent at Zanzibar, publishes the fact that a grand total of 4096 slaves were marched by the overland route from Kilwa to Dar Salaam. I know nothing whatever of the accuracy of these figures, but I have already disclosed to you the whereabouts of the slave traders’ tracks, and have informed you what my exploration of the Kufiji suggests should be done to crush the now established land slave traffic. I should not have been at such pains to find out what I have given you above" if I did not feel from my soul that the Government of Great Britain, which has expended so many vast sums for the suppression of this slave trade, might for the small sum of £SOOO begin to hope that her great mission in.. East Africa was approaching its successful accomplishment, and so enable all men to cry “ Bans Deo.”