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FASHIONS FOR MARCH. [From La Follet.]

Fashions have an incontestible affinity one with the other. Thus we perceive that the vogue for tra m, queues, or manteanx de cour, has necessarily brought back ornaments of the last century ; and feathers, which have been exclusively reserved for the trimming of bonnets or the hair, •re now a great attraction, and accessory for ornamenting court or full evening dresses. It cannot be denied that the art of preparing these light and graceful articles has greatly advanced of late, both as respect the stinting and arranging the elegant ostrich, or the more flexible marabout ; and it is as easy now to trim with the aristocratic ornament, either as wreaths or bonquet9, as with the still fashionable and beautiful flowers. Bouillonuees of crepe lisse or tulle generally accompany the feather trimming, and nothing lighter or more graceful can be imagined than this style. Agraffes of small feathers are usually composed of three, the ends of which are concealed under a rose, camellia, or chrysanthemum, the colour of the flower forming a beautiful contrast with the dazzling whiteness of the feathers. The fashion for flounces has become general, both for ball and walking dresses ; the elegance depending on the variety and richness of the ornaments. A robe of pink crape, with three skirts. At the edge of each three waved ruches of pink tulle, separated by a small silver cord; the 'interval of the ruches is filled with narrow silver blonde, slightly gathered. The trimming nearly reaches to the waist. The body is a draperie, in the

plaits of which are narrow blondes joining on the middle of the corsage, under a bouquet of roies with silver foliage. Round the top of the low body, under a bouillonee, is a deep silver blonde falling over the back, and forming a berthe over the sleeves. Coiffure, roses with silver foliage, and long bows of pink gauze ribbon brochee with silver. A robe of lemon-coloured crape, wilh three flounces, edged with ruches of ribbon, aud headed with a light silver guipure. The two top flounces are raised on one side to branches of rubycoloured clematis descending from the waist. The wreaths are much fuller towards the bottom, and float over the bottom flounce. A double bertbe of silver guipore, separated by ruches of ribbon, fixed on the chest with a bouquet of clematis Nothing can bt fresher or more elegant than robes of tulle, worked with velvet flowers. Plain taffetas are also much in demand, with flounces printed with wreaths of bright-coloured flowers. In promenade dresses, plain tissues appear destined to open the spring season. The bodies are high, with bastjuines. Notwithstanding the continuation of cold weather, many of our fashionables may be teen in pelisses, mantelets, and pardessns ; among; which the newest style vrt have seen is the pardessus bizantin, bearing a slight resemblance to a short Turkish pelisse; it is made of fawn-coloured cachemire, with a border of velvet. The sleeves are in large plaits on the shoulder, and are consequently, very open at the bottom. The pardeasus is lined throughout with silk, but not wadded. The obligeante is a kind of very small mantelet to be thrown over the shoulders in-doors; it is also made of cacbemire, and ornamented with embroidery and braid. The make of negligees dresses alters but little. The bodies are always made to open or close at will over the chest, and invariably terminate with basques. The sleeves gary infinitely, and always accord with the style of robe. In rich materials, such as velvets, &c, the Spanish sleeve Ss much in favour. The mousquetaire or pagode sleeve continues to be adopted, as more simple, the roost graceful, and easy of harmonising with half-dress toilettes. The edge of the sleeve and cuffs are richly ornameuttd, and match the trimming on the basques. Dresses are made very long, especially those destined for in-doors, when (bey form a short train behind. In order to give width at the bottom and sustain the full plaits, they are worn over heavy taffetas skirts with two flounces; tbest skirts do not exclude those made of cambric muslin trimmed with deep embroidery, which are indispensable in distinguished toilettes. As visiting dresses, the robes & nceuds ara greatly admired. We bavt seen one of these of black brocade with bouquets in shades of violet. The front of tht skirt has three rows of violet setin with black velvet design* stamped on the ribbon ; each bow is fastened in the middle with an agraffe of black velvet. The bows ar« four cogues with two ends not longer than the bows, but falling towards the bottom of the dress, and diminishing ia »iae as they approach the wjist ; they form an apron, and terminate under the basquts, which are trimmed round plaited ribbon, or a ruche formed of three narrow black laces. Tb« body is very open over the chest ; and the rcvers, trimmed to match the basques, are held together by an echtlle of three ribbon bows, showing tha chemisetti between each row. The slteves are slashed, and united by bows. Large collar and under-sleevts of guipure or embroidered muslin. Robes of black or dark colored moire antique form very pretty Btgligees, Some are bordered with three rows of shaded plush, the same color as the dress ; others have two rows of black curled feathers. Upon black moire, the latter trimming is very stylish. Plain brocart dresses are made with three velvet flounces, either black or the colour of the dress. In order that this style should be pretty, j care mast be taken not to make them too full, ' but sufficiently modulated to a/oid the appearance of flat biases. The revers, basques, and trimming on the rleeves must also be of velvet. Black moirs antique is very much in fashion for all kinds of toilette. Pelisses are made of it, trimrrtd wilh several bands of curled plush, or deep fringes mixed with chenille and silk. Cambric lace, however, is mostly in vogue as garniture. The designs now are very beautiful. Bonnets are more graceful than ever, although placed rtther hack on the head. The crowns have but little ornament, all the trimming being bestowed on the front, especially on the edges, which are almost always ornamented with ruches of blonds, ribbons, of feathers. j

Permanent link to this item
Hononga pūmau ki tēnei tūemi

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/NZSCSG18540708.2.11

Bibliographic details
Ngā taipitopito pukapuka

New Zealand Spectator and Cook's Strait Guardian, Volume IX, Issue 932, 8 July 1854, Page 4

Word count
Tapeke kupu
1,055

FASHIONS FOR MARCH. [From La Follet.] New Zealand Spectator and Cook's Strait Guardian, Volume IX, Issue 932, 8 July 1854, Page 4

FASHIONS FOR MARCH. [From La Follet.] New Zealand Spectator and Cook's Strait Guardian, Volume IX, Issue 932, 8 July 1854, Page 4

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