THE SEAT OF WAR ON THE DANUBE. [From the Times.]

New Zealand Spectator and Cook's Strait Guardian, Volume IX, Issue 923, 7 June 1854, Page 4

THE SEAT OF WAR ON THE DANUBE. [From the Times.]

It may be premised that what is termed ihe general valley of the. Danube is uaturally divided into lour basins by chains of mountains, which successively become detached, extend away 10 the

right and left, then raeel and enclose the valley of the Danube in three different places, force the river to change its bed, and to pass over four vast slopes. The third of these great enclosures is formed by the junction of the Veliki-Balkan and the eastern Carpathiuns, in the direction of OiSDva, the point where the Danube issues from the Austrian dominions, and rolls away on its course to the Ottoman territory. It is at this point that its fourth basin commences, which only terminates in the Black Sea. To the north extend the chain of the Carpathians and the succes- j [ sive heights which rise between the Pruth and j [ the Dneister, and to the south the Veliki and the | vas.t chain of the Balkans. This fourth basin, through which the noble river rolls its huge volume of waters, swelled by many navigable stieams, to the Suxine, comprises the whole of Bulgaria on the south, Wallachia and Moldavia on the north, and a portion of Bessarabia. While yet the Danube waters the Hungarian plains its bed is regular, deep, without torrents, and is inI tersected by many islets ; its banks are mostly i low, and its width iv some places from two and a j half to three English miles. But when it api proaches Orsova, where the Carpathians and the Balkans approach, it becomes completely changed; it strugglts through that formidable barrier ; flings j itself with the fury of a vast torrent through the I gigantic walls of granite which close in upon it ; it returns on its>elf, coils and winds, as it in convulsive rage against the rocks and shallows which bar its passage ; and where it cannot undermine the adamantine barriers, lifts its waters and dashes its fury over them. Some of these whirlpools and rapids are passed by the hardy natives of the mountains in small boats in certain spots ; but the steamers which navigate the stream thus far from Vicuna there arrest their course, and the merchandise with which they are ladea is transpoited on the backs of men and animals through a road cut in the rocks, from Orsova for some miles done to Kladova, while the tortured river : passes away ta the east. The spot where it is thus strangled, as it were, is known by the name ;of the Iron Gate, or the Gate of Trajan. New | Orsova, in the Servian territory, is situate in an isle of the Danube. It forms nearly a rectangle, ! and is defended on the right bank by Foit St. Elizabeth. It vras taken by the Austrians in 1789. Kladova, a little to the south, is also a Seivian town ; and, like most of the small towns near the Danube, is encased by an earthen rampart, with a ditch, and palhsades of oak sufficiently strong to resist all but cannon shot. Klad(/va was taken by the Russians in 1829. To the north, and not far from Tchemetz, are the remains of Trajan's bridge, originally of 20 arches, but of which 5 only remain, and which was flung across the river when it measured more than 3,000 feet in width. To the south of Kladora, the river, escaping from its more formidable girdle, rolls more freely between the rocky steeps, and forms the boundary between Servia and Wallachia ; it has on its right Berza-Palanka, a fortified town, and there receives the waters of the Timok, which comes up from the south, and separates Servia from Bulgaria. The Danube then rolls through a vast plain, but still bears the impress of its former struggle, for it rolls rapidly, but not tumultuously, along. It grows wider and wider, and it 3 waters are interspersed with isles, which are covered with brushwood. It nest reaches Widdin, a considerable town, with a population of about 26,000, and a garrison of 8,000 or 10,000 men. Widdio is one of the important fortified places of the military line of the Danube. It covers the approaches of Servia, commands Litile Wallachia, the defiles of Transylvania, and, above all, the opening of the road which leads through Nissa and Sophia on to Adrianople. Its form is an irregular pentagon ; it is strongly bastioned, possesses a fortified castle, with two redoubts in the islands, and its defences are completed by an extensive marsh. It was before the walls of Widden that the Turks were defeated by the Impe- J rialis>s in 1689 ; and it was under cover of its guns that the Ottoman army effected its passage to Kalafat, which is on the left bank, and established iiselt in Little WaJlachia. Below Widden the river makes a bend, and then flows on to the east, and waters on its right bank ArgulGrad, Lorn, Zibroul-Palanka, and Orova, all situate at the confluence of the streams which come up from Veliki-Balkan on the south, and at the poiiits where the right bank becomes lower and ceases to command the left. These towns present no serious means of defence, but are sufficient to antioy an enemy crossing the stream. The Danube flows on to the east with some windings till it reaches the town of Nicopolis, which was founded by TrßJan. Nicopolis is an important place, or/ing to its position at the point I where the Oswa enters the Danube, and to its being almost right opposite to the Aluta, which I also enters it on the Wallachian siJe. Its j population is 10,000, and its garrison between j 2,0Q0 and 3,000 meu. Jt has been strongly fortified by Omar Pasha. Opposite on the Wallachian bank of the river, is the town of THrna, | which served formerly as its t&c-du-pont, until |it was demanded by the Russians in 1828. It was by that icle-dy-pont that the Turks used to penetrate into the vailey of the Aluta, while Nicopolis covered the route to the Balkans, and which leads by the defile of Gabrova. It was taken by the Prussians in 1810, and again in in 1829. The ground near it has been the scene of many battles. After Nicopolis the Danube reaches Sistova, where it is large aud deep enough to bear vessels of 500 tons burden. Its population is estimated at about 12,000. Sislova has a wall flanked with towers, and a castle ; but it ia of secondary importance. It was taken and dismantled by the Russians in 1810. From Widdin to Sistova the Danube flows from west to east without many or considerable windings ; but at Sistova it begins to take a northern direction. In its gradual course upwards it reaches Rustchuk, one of the three most important ptaces of the line of the Danube. It is situate at the confluence of the Kara-horn, at the extreme point of the great route from Russia to Constantinople by Vassy, and Bucharest in Lower Wallachia, aud of the two principal routes of the Balkans, those of Gabrova aud Shumla. Rustchuk has a fortified castle which commands tLe town and river, aud has beeu recently fordfied. Its population is 30,000, and its present garrison about 7,000. In front of Rustchuk, and on the lett bank, is Giurgevo, a Waliachiau town, which was formerly ilstete-du-pov.t, and which played a great part in most of the wars between the Russians and Turks. Tt was dismantled by the latter iv 1828.

I From the Danube, which up to Rustcbuk had flowed regularly in one bed, issue at this point teveral streams, which inundate the country for i eight or ten miles distant. The last slopes of the Bulgarian mountains dip down towards one bank, while the other is bounded by patches of low marshy soil, cut up by other vagrant streams, or by pools of stagnant water, interspersed with isluts covered will) brushwood or will) thick reed grass. The river, however, soon again gathers itselt into one undivided stream, and rolls on to Turtukai, situate opposite the point where the Argisch, flowing down from Wallachia, enters the Danube. Turtukai, which, owing !o its important position, has been regularly fortified, connects the two important towns of Rustchuk and Silistria ; and it is, moreover, between these two towns that both banks of the Danube are equally low, and pre- ; sent the points where its passage is without dif- | ficulty. Opposite to Turtukai, and about a mile j and a half from the left bank, is the Wallachian village of Ohenitza. It was there that in ISIO, and again in 1529, the Russians passed the Da- | nube. At the commencement of the war they were also in force there, when the Tucks boldly i crossed the river and beat them. j Silistria is the next place of importance which j the Danube waters in its gradually northward j course. It u situated at the extremity of the principal route of the Balkans, by Shumla ; has j a population of 20,000, considerable fortifications, a caslle, capacious barrarks, aud carries ou ! in ordinary times an extensive tr«de on the river. Its piesent garrison is in proportion to its importance. It was unsuccessfully attacked by the Russians in 1773 and 1809. and, after a long siege, was taken in 1829. Rustchuk, Silistria, and Shumla ate at the angles of a triangle which forms, as it were, the citadel of that part of the Turkish territory which lies between the Danube and the Balkans. Leaving Silistria, the river advances, but still giadually, towards the north, while it again throws out branches, the rriost considerable of which is Borchicha, which ilows along the parent stream for more than 50 miles, but at a distance ol from 15 to 20 ; after which it unites with it by various channels, iorming marshy itJets,, — so much so that the whole left bank of the Danube up to Hirsova is impracticable. The river then passes to Rassova, a small foi tilled town, defended in front by impassable marshes. At this spot, it is said that the Danube, in times now remote, continued unvarying its western course to Kostendje in the Black Sea, from which it is only separated about 50 or 60 ai:les, but that it became blocked up by long accumulating sandbanks, and was forced to seek a new outlet. At Rassava it now at all events turns sharply to the north, and traverses a space o! 80 leagues before it empties j itself into the Euxine. In the time of ihe j Romans a wall and ditch, which extended for 50 j miles, from Rassova to the sea, repelled the invasions of the Dacian, aud of that barrier, the Vallum Trajaui, traces may still be seen. A i caoal which would unite the Danube with the i Black Sea at that spot was once projected, and i recently plans have been furnished of a railroad, j which would make Rassova the station, for yes- j sels descending the Da.sube. i The mighty stream after quitting Rassova once more quits its oed, aud scatters its waters, which flow along a low soil cut up into a maze of marshes. In this state it reaches Hhsov*, which is defended by a fcrtifieu eosde, and has a girrison of about 2,000 men. Tins place was taken by the Russians in 1809 and 182 S. Though small, it is of considerable importance from its position on the very spot where the Bercliiclm returns to the Danube, and the livtr itseii resumes its course- It coveis the points where a passage might be effected in the Dobiouscha. The Dobrouscha is the rectangular psuiz»suU comprised between the Danube, from Rassova Jo the mouth or the Kilia, Trajan's Vaiium, and the Black Sea. ll is in many parts inundated, but has good pasturage ior the excellent horses which constitute the sole wealth of the Tartars who inhabit it. If the Danube be then passed, the i routes by Varna and Shumla to Constantinople ! are opeu to au enemy. | After Hirsova the Danube again loses itself in i many streams, and thus scattered reaches Mathine, a town protected by two fortified ca&tles and a wall, and which has now a garrison of about 4,000 men. Its importance in 1809 and 1828 was considerable, as its Itie-du-pont was the Wallachian Brailow, though separated from it by lour or iive acres of the river, about four or live miles in bieadth. In the latter year it was dismantled by the Russians. By means of it Wallachia was turned, au 1 the entry into Moldavia secured ; aud it covered the Lower Danube and the Dobrouscha. It was many times besieged, as the Russians could not venture beyond the Danube with such a place in their rear. Below Brailow the Danube again recovers its single b?d, and flows ou to Galatz, which is on the left batik and near the confluence of the Sereth ; — it is the only port Moldavia possesses on the river. Once more the waters are divided ; but the Danube reaches its highest northern point at Reni, where it resumes its original direc- ! tion from west to east. It passes through a dis- ! trict almost entirely inundated, and it hurries on j 'us way through vast lakes. It is again confined | nearly to one bed before it reaches Isaktchi, i where hostilities were commenced in the present war by the attack made on the place by the Russians. With a fortified castle, and a garrison of about 1,500 men, Isaktchi^ but a post of observatiou ou the embouchures of the river. The same may be said of Toultcha, which is the last foitified place held by the Turks on the Danube, and which has a garrison of 1,200 men. Above Toultchii the river is divided into a great many arras ; the three most important of which form a vast delta, which belongs in great part to Russia. The first division of the delta begins at the island of Tchatal, where the Danube separates into two large branches — the first of which, called the Kiha, takes a northern direction, and ieaches Ismail and Kilia, both taken by the Turks from the Russians, and which now command the whole of the delta of the Danube. In former times Ismail was for the Turks a posuiou of the same importance as Brailow. Its capture by assault, under Suwarrow, iv 1790, when 35,000 of the inhabitants were involved in a general massacre, has been celebrated in prose and poetry. The Kilia, divided and subdivided into several branches, is scarcely navigable ; at its mouth the water is . from four to seven ftet deep. The second branch > is the Sulina, which flows to the south-east, aod j is divided into the two su earns Si. George aud i

Dunavitz — the latter, more to the southward, flows into the maritime lake of Rassein. The Sulina is easy of navigation ; it is from 400 to COO feet in width, it ought to be 18 to 22 feet in depth, and flows in an undivided channel to the sea. The St. George branch is about 30 feet deep, but its mouth is almost entirely blocked up with saud. The Dunavitz is not navigable. The mouths of the Danube extend over 70 miles of coast. The delta is formed of isles Tchatal and Loti, between the Kilia and the Sulina; of the lile St. George, between the Sulina and the St. George ; and of the Islo Portitza between St. George and the Dunavitz. This last only is possessed by the Turks ; all the rest belong to the Russians, who, intentionally or through negligence, have since the recent quarrel with the Porte, allowed the satid to accumulate at the mouth of Sulina so as to do incalculable injury to the navigation of the most important river of Europe. The whole of the delta, with the exception of the Island of Portitza, which is amass of sand, is neither thiuly populated nor poorly cultivated. The Danube being thus traced in its varied course lrom Orsova, where it issues from its rocky belt to ioll its waters through the vast territory whose eastern boundary is the Euxine, it may be added thai in this, its fourth basin, its passage, though a difficult operation by reason of the many isles, the roars>hy soil of the banks, aod the sudden and frequent inundations, is generally successful, owing to the immense line which an enemy ia forced to guard. The passage from the left to the right bank is especially difficult, from the fact of the former being almost throughout commanded by the latter, and the want of fortified positions and bridge-heads to protect such difficult operations. The spots considered by the Russians as the least dangerous or uncertain for crossing are Braova, near the confluence of the Tiiaok, the environs of Widdiu, the confluence of the Schy), isles near that of the Aluta, Flamoundi near Kicopolis, the ground contiguous to Giurgevo and Hirsova, and Brailow, Galatz, and Isaktchi. •The Russians have passed in all these places, but they have never advanced far into Bulgaria, or towaids the Balkans, wiihout being first masters oi tie forts of the Danube; and before these they have invariably encountered long and formidable resistance. At the time the Turks were in possession of the idtes-du-pont of Turna, Giurgevo, Brailow, and Ismail, they easily commanded ail the left bank of the Danube, which was constantly open to them ; and the stream, crowned by 18 fortresses, covered in front by the Daeister and the Pruth, defended in the rear by the Balkans and the forts which protected its defiles, formed a magnificent offensive line. It is, however, now so weakened by the dismantling of the tdle3-du-po7it by the posession of the mouths of the river by Russia, not to speak of the semiindependence of Waliachia aud Moldavia, that it is meiely one of defence.