THE NEW COUNTRY TO THE NORTHWARD.

New Zealand Spectator and Cook's Strait Guardian, Volume VII, Issue 633, 27 August 1851, Page 4

THE NEW COUNTRY TO THE NORTHWARD.

[From the Western Australian Inquirer, September 26, 1849.] The recent expedition to the northward undertaken by Assistant-Surveyor A. Gregory, and the proposed settlement at Champion Bay, has brought that portion of the colony so often before the public as to render the consideration of its capabilities for the purposes to which it is to be applied—namely, to afford food for the flocks and herds of the colony, and also to yield sufficient tillageland to enable us, what we have not hitherto done, to grow sufficient corn for our own consumption —a matter of careful inquiry. In order to attain this desirable end, it is evident ill l *' ******* __ _ * 1-4 1 y ui at, iuuSl lue couutry within reasonable distance around it should possess such particular characteristics as would indicate the presence of a soil capable of being rendered available either for pastoral or agricultural purposes. We feel naturally inclined to ask the question, how it happened that a country situated at no very gYeat distance from the capital of the colony abounding with (we will say nothing about minerals, as they might have been easily passed over in a cursory survey) some of the finest tracts of land known in Western Australia—how is it that such a country has been so long unknown ? The attempt to solve the question will naturally lead the enquirer to recount and recollect the names of those who have previously trodden the same ground or a great port’on of it, and wonder what miserable defect could have existed in their perceptive powers to enable them to traverse a district which, on the mere face of it, held forth such strong hopes of proving of inestimable value to the colony, without perceiving the same, or, if perceived, rendered com* pletely useless by the strict silence preserved as to its existence. In putting to ourselves this question, and in attempting a solution of it, the name of the then Lieut. Grey, the now Governor of New Zealand, will occur • we begin to'recollect that be did say something about the estraordinary'degree of fertility of the soil on the banks of the various rivers and to the eastward of the route which he adopted while performing bis toilsome, painful, and dangerous journey from Gan-

theaume Bay to Swan River—that he did say something about there being such a spot, where he could “ picture to himself the bleat-

ing sheep and lowing herds wandering over the grassy bills” —that he considered that ere long “civilization would follow his tracks, and that rude nature and the savage would no longer reign supreme over so fine a territory.” If Mr. Grey had travelled over these fertile hills and valleys, if he had described the nature of the country he had passed over —and he has given a most elaborate description of it—how is it that so many years have gone by without due attempts being made to place in possession of the settlers a country so peculiarly adapted to meet their most pressing wants ? The answer is a plain though a painful one. Grey had not only to encounter toils and perils of a nature which equalled, if not surpassed, those undergone by any other traveller—he had not only to encounter perils by sea and perils by land — the wreck of his boats at Gantheaume Bay, hostility from the natives, opposition from his own party, want of food and water, the wearisome fatigue of a march of 300 miles, crossing rivers, tearing through thickets, surmounting hills, and at last, with the indomitable energy and perseverance of a British soldier, having overcome all and every obstacle, he entered Pei th such a miserable wreck of what he was as not to be recognised even by his most intimate friends—Mr. Grey had, we repeat, not only to encounter all these dangers, but, instead of receiving the meed of his labours, the fitting recompense for his toils, his narrative was viewed with suspicion, and a hasty and incomplete survey undertaken by Captain Stokes, in the Beagle, was sufficient to thicken the clouds that were gathering over his hard-earned reputation, and if he did not receive the accusation of having wilfully mis-stated and misrepresented what he did see, of having wilfully invented and spoken of what he did not see, he was at the least considered as a fantastic visionary, whose brain had been overturned by the sufferings he encountered during his perilous march. It will be our object as far as our space will allow, to compare in this article the report of Mr. Grey with that of Mr. Gregory. We must premise, however, that we do not doubt but that many errors may have crept into Mr. Grey’s narrative, e. g., in the laying down of Port Grey, and the positions of several rivers and hills; but we consider that, under the circumstances in which his task was performed, there is every excuse to be made for him, and it does not interfere with the principal point—the question as to whether he did or did not discover the land which is now an object of so much attention. Mr. Grey, in the commencement of his narrative, gives an account of the nature of soil on the Murchison Estuary in the following terms “We did not, indeed, find much good land about this estuary, but there were rich fiats on either side of it, whilst the nature of the rocks, and the lofty and peculiar character of the distant bills, gave promise of a most fertile region.” “ Trickling springs and fertile flats were passed over by us; there was much barren land visible in the distance, though many a sign and token might lead the practical explorer to hope that he was about to enter upon a tract of an extent and of a fertility yet unknown in South Western Australia.”' Mr. Gregory states of the River Murchison, “We came upon the Murchison River, running through large grassy flats— but, with the exception of the flats on each side the bank, the country is poor and scrubby;” “excepting the flats and a narrow strip of land on either side, the country was very indifferent." "Many springs were seen on the left bank, the water of which was of excellent quality.” We have placed in italics the corresponding description of either party, and it will be seen how far they coincide. Mr. Gregory also, on the 10th Oct., says—“At Bb. 30m., reached the summit of the rocky hills, and steering about S.E. through a succession of thickets, rocks, yawning chasms, &c., we attained to a fine grassy flat." Thus proving that Mr. Grey’s conjectures as to the probability of a fertile region being discovered in the neighbourhood were not altogether groundless. Both Mr. Grey and Mr. Gregory segin to Hgrcs with regard to the worthless country between the Murchison and the Hutt. The former, undei date April 2, states, “We were embarrassed by a thick scrub, through which we made our way with difficulty.” April 3, “ Our course was embarrassed by thick ravines and scrub.” “Two miles more brought us to an impenetrable belt of scrub, which lay east and west.” April 4, “ Traversed scrubby, stony hills.” Mr. Gregory speaks of the country as being “a succession of low granite hills, thickly covered with acacia, to the exclusion of almost every other kind of vegeMr. Grey, in describing the shores of the Hutt Estuary, says, “They were of great richness and beauty.” “ On the east a series of rich undercliff limestone hills gradually rose into lofty and precipitate ranges, between which and the estuary was a fertile

valley.” “The rich flats we were on to-day have apparently at no distant date formed part of the head of the estuary, “It seemed certain that we stood in the richest province of South Western Australia.” “ The limestone hills to the eastward gradually decreased in elevation, and we ascended one of them to gain a view of the surrounding country.” It has been remarked that as Captain Grey travelled on the coast line and to the westward of the hills, it seemed strange that he could give an account of the land to the eastward, and had he never deviated from his route, the objection would have held good ; but not only in this instance, but in others, be had ocular demonstration of the fertility of the soil. In this instance he ascended one of the hills, and on several other occasions mentions his adopting the same course. Therefore it was not “mere guess”—in fact it was next to impossible for any man to make such accurate guesses. Upon arriving at the summit, he proceeds, “ I found that the summit of this range consisted of a terrace about a mile wide, richly grassed.” “ The river (Hutt) was bordered by rich flats.” “On the ranges to the eastward the country appeared grassy and good.” Mr. Gregory, describing the soil of the River Hutt, says, it has “narrow, grassy flats on both banks “the hills were grassy for an average distance of two miles back.” “We were pleased to find the country equal to the best land on the southern branch of the Bowes.” We now follow Mr. Grey in his southerly course. Speaking of the Bowes, he states, “The valley itself was both picturesque and fertile, and the appearance of the country to the east and north-east was highly promising. “A good country lay to the eastward of us.” “ The first four miles of our journey (from the Bowes) was not very encouraging; we could only see as far to the eastward as the flattopped range, and although the slopes of these hills looked very fertile, I had no means of ascertaining how far back this country extends”—a clear proof that he was in the habit of inspecting the country to the eastward of the range, otherwise why would he speak of this discouragement. “ We, however, crept gradually up an ascent” “ I turned to the north-eastward; there burst upon my sight a most enchanting view. In the far east, that is to say some twenty-five miles away, stretched a flat-topped range of mountains.” “Between this range and the nearest one, lay a large rich valley, vying with the most fertile I have ever seen.” “In front of us lay another valley.” “I have seen no other portion of Australia which has so large an extent of good country.” This fertile country lies between the Bowes and Buller rivers. And now what does Mr. Gregory say?—“We then descended into the rich and grassy valley of the Bowes River. We found the country generally of a good grassy character, suitable for sheep. I should estimate the sheep-feeding laud on this river at 100,000 acres.” Of the Buller, Mr. Grey says, “It was of the same tich and romantic character as that which I have just described” (between the Bowes and the Buller). Mr. Gregory speaks of the land on the left bank of that river as of a very good and grassy description, consisting of a range of granite hills about ten miles N. and S., and two miles in width. “Estimated the valley of the Buller to contain about 10,000 acres of good grassy land, and 30,000 acres of inferior feeding country.” Mr, Grey, pursuing his southerly route, arrives “at the edge of a valley, and through it we had another view of the country to the eastward.” Again we see how anxious he was to omit no opportunity of judging for himself, and not trusting to conjecture. Mr. Grey does not dwell upon the Chapman River, neither, during his journey, does he halt at the famous Port Grey or Champion Bay, yet the little he does say about those places is rather disparatory of the country and soil, which would not have been the case had he any wish to misstate or mislead by painting universal fertility. The same may be said of the Greenougb, the approach to which he describes as being through “low, scrubby, swampy plains.” We did intend following our adventurous traveller through the remaining portion of his wretched journey, still comparing bis statements with those of Mr. Gregory, but we must defer so doing for another week, as well as the consideration of the trip of H.M.S. Beagle, haying already exceeded the limits usually assigned to a newspaper article. We do not expect to exonerate Mr. Grey from tne charges so ruthlessly laid against him, — we do not presume to attempt it; we merely wish to draw a comparison between his statements and those of his successors, being consent that he will not suffer by the ordeal. Captain Grey does not renniro any advocate ' to vindicate his conduct t art answer to the misrepresentations that have been heaped upon him has already appeared in the published report of Assistant-Surveyor Gregory. He has been tried in the furnace of popular opinion, and has come forth unscathed. He

endured every toil and <l- - the lot of any traveller*^ e ? at W the taunts and sneers of hi? b ° Te Ms he knew that, sooner or l X ? appear—and it has appeared ’ 'W plorations will more S J then will he receive the Xa r X ,en ‘l J layed tribute, so justly due J« kJ vices—he will be happy in th/” b “ PMll of his friends, the coZktion o f and, better far, the approving heart, which prompts him to f honest man, that though the fl? 1 «u contemporaries has been long it was not the less acceptable, a !r l(i - It less deserved. ’ an< * not