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NOTES OF TRIP TO DISCOVER A PASS FROM THE WAIRAU TO THE PORT COOPER PLAINS.

Mr. Editor, — You are aware of my originally intending to proceed with Captain Mitchell in search of a sheep and cattle-road between the Wairau and Port Cooper, and our continued delay in the former place awaiting Mr. Tinline, and of Capt. Mitchells having started with Mr. Dashwood daring my absence in Nelson ; but on my return to the Wairau 1 was still determined to carry

out my former plan, and was fortunate enough to get Mr. W. M'Rae as a companion ; an old whaler of the name of Jordan, being anxious to explore the country, I engaged, as well as a native of the name of Ewi ; Mr. M'Rae's maori, Eopi, also accompanied us. On learning that Captain Mitchell had selected the Waiopai as the direction he intended to proceed in, I followed Mr. Tinliue's advice, and selected the Awatere as the stream most likely to lead me to the nearest opening into the Port Cooper Plains, our point of destination. May 9th. — Our party, as before named, with two of Mr. M'Rae's horses to carry our provisions, started on the 9th May, and after halting for a short time at Dr. Bedborough's station, we proceeded to our first encamping ground on Mr. Tinline's run, having in the march crossed the Awatere twice after leaving Dr. Bedborough's ; but, as that part of the country is well known, I shall say nothing about it ; the only thing worth noting was, our dogs killing a large wild cat just before we pitched our tent, which gave us some hopes that they might prove useful during our march. Distance travelled beyond Mr. Bedborough's station, three miles. 10th. — After breakfasting, we were ready packed for starting by daylight, and commenced by ascending an exceedingly steep bank. Skipper proved himself a good horse, aDd reached the top safely, but poor Wooden Legs only too well deserved his name, for in attempting to mount, he fell backwards, and had to be led up ; Jordan and the two maories carrying his load up to the top ; a bad beginning. Proceeding in a westerly direction, parallel to the Awatere, we found that had we taken the precaution of looking about us a little before starting, we might have selected a more suitable road by which we could have ascended the bank without accident. After descending the hill, we travelled for about two miles in the plain, but seeing large chasms running down into the river a short distance a- bead, we thought it advisable to take to the hills, and proceeded along a range running parallel to the Awatere, with a stream on one side, which we called the Medway, which runs into the Awatere, and forms the boundary between Dr. Bedborough's and Mr. Tinline's run, and flows for some distance east and west, and then turns to the south. I think it takes its rise in the Tapuaenuku range. We descended this range before its meeting with the hill known as Mr. Weld's Hill, and baited for a short time by the side of a stream, where we found an old wari and a footpath. After having refreshed ourselves, we proceeded, and after crossing two small ranges of hills, descended into the valley by i a very steep bank, and encamped on the bank of a beautiful stream, which we called the Jordan, after one of our men, his name seeming the most appropriate. The pasture here is most beautiful. Distance travelled, eight miles. 11th. — As it rained during the whole night, and looked lowering with continued showers all morning, we decided that the party should not proceed, for which I confess 1 was not sorry. Mr. M'Rae and Jordan went on a-head, and discovered in time that the road we had intended going the following morning was not practicable for horses ; they brought back seven wekas with them, having cooked and eaten one for their lunch. During their absence, I had cooked dinner ; when we began eating, Jordan found to his no little discomfort that be had left his knife behind — rather an- inconvenience in these out-of-the-way places, for they cannot be replaced. A rocky and prominent point of considerable solidity, on a hill near the river Jordan, we named Jordan's Nob. 12th. — Rained all last night, and being very wet this morning, we agreed to halt. 13th. — Still raining, but being determined on moving, commenced ascending a very steep hill running west by north, and which I should think rose 2,000 feet or more in a short distance. After proceeding a short time, we commenced descending, in order to meet a stream traced by Mr. M'Rae and Jordan the day before, which runs into the Awatere, and this we named the M'Rae, as it seemed like its namesake to surmount all difficulties in its course. I much regretted not having a barometer with me, nor would I go a trip again without one. We waded through and along the banks of the M'Rae river till we arrived at some level land covered with manuka scrub, along the Awatere, but being alarmed at some apertures visible a-head, and also seeing that the banks of that river on the east side were formed by spurs of the hills, we again ascended, and after following a range running parallel to the Awatere, which here runs to the south west, we commenced sidling and descending, and met here with the roughest travelling possible, and our boots suffered considerably towards the end of our day s route, half the nails being torn out, to say nothing of our ancles aching much from the not enviable strain they were put to. We were glad to find a resting |

place on the banks of a pretty stream I called the Ribble, as we were completely drenched through, it having commenced raining about twelve o'clock, and continued to do so all day. Our dogs contrived to catch nine wekas. Mr. M'Rae's knowledge of bushing was of very great service, to me at least, for, being a novice, my lodging would have been "on the cold ground," — I might truly say "damp," — whereas, by his commencing to rob the cabbage trees of their dried leaves, we were enabled to make a good bed, and enjoy a comfortable rest after our day's work. Nine miles. 14. — Rained the whole of last night, and continuing to do so all day, we were again stationary. There is a beautiful water-fall of 100 feet close here, formed by the Ribble near its juncture with the Awatere. The natives are constantly eating, two or three wekas a day are quickly consumed by each. 15th. — Still encamped on account of the continued rain. 16ih. — Having cleared up about ten o'clock, we started, mounting a range of hills, which we followed, running parallel to the river Awatere, then descending into the valley, which we followed, dipping now and then into gullies, and rising again to the flat. It commenced raining heavily again, but we continued our journey. Crossed two considerable streams about four miles apart ; we named the first the Isis, and the second the Tarn ; the latter being as broad as the Oraaka, not including the shingle-beds — the water above our knees at the ford, and running very strong. After walking three miles further, we descended an exceedingly steep bank, entirely composed of limestone, into the bed of the Awatere, which is in many places a quarter of a mile wide. I found some beautiful pieces of marble, or what I supposed to be such ; and I should think from the nature of some lumps of a black coaly substance we picked up, that coal was to be found not far off. The wild cabbage, of which we had entirely lost sight, again appeared, which led me to suppose ourselves , in the neighbourhood of a pa, or thaf there , had been one higher up the river. After going on for a mile and a half we halted, the rain still pouring down. A river here enters the Awatere on the opposite side (named by us the Gladwyn), and before its juncture with it we cculd see a small stream fall over the banks, causing a most noble waterfall of at least 150 feet in height. The whole of the country we bad passed through was the richest grazing land that either of us had seen ; grass up to our knees ; and for eight or nine miles back on either side of the river the country is eminently suited for sheep, being formed of low grassy hills, and I should think sheep-runs might be selected, well bounded on three sides ; the inner side, of course, we could not judge of. We encamped on the banks of the Awatere, and had delicious little rats for dinner, which, to my taste, are quite equal to the irogs in France ; the rain still poured in torrents. I suffered much from dysentery all day, as did also Eopi, Mr. M'Rae's native; my native suffered from severe pain in his chest. The j river running south-east by north-west. Ten miles. 17th. — -Rather finer, but remained stationary to dry all our clothes and provisions, which were completely saturated with rain, for it continued raining all night, and all our party were coughing ; dysentery still bad. 18th. — Crosssed the Awatere, and took a south-west course, keeping up valleys and over hills ; the Awatere took a sudden turn to the east. We saw, after rising some hills, a distance of twenty miles a-head of us nothing but a series of hills to the right and left, with a constant succession of small hills in the centre, making us think we were in the middle of the ranges dipping^to the east and west coast. Walked four miles a-head, and anchored by the side of a stream which runs into the Awatere, which lay a quarter of a mile a-head, running now in a westerly direction. The pasture here is very beautiful, and seemed to continue so as far as we could see. Ewi very unwell to-day, and hardly able to crawl along, and unable to carry any load. Ten miles. 19th. — Kept still in a westerly direction, but inclined to the southward, and rose some hills ; after walking four miles and a half, joined and grossed the Awatere three times, which was caused by its separating and forming a large rocky island, and then taking a sudden turn to the south-east, and winding round some rocky peaks. We then walked in a southerly direction for about six miles along a plaiti, and met with tracks of wild dogs and maories. The Awateie here loses its general features, running through a plain without any steep banks, dividing itself fantastically into different branches, and then meeting them again. At four o'clock, we halted, having crossed a branch of the Awatere which rises in the Kaikoras, which we saw plainly, being close to one end of them.

I think this is the main branch, as the leading stream seems much smaller, but still runs in a westerly direction. -Ewi so ill that I was obliged to drive him before me all day, at he wanted to become acquainted with hit forefathers. The weather very beautiful. No flax seen for the last two days. Ten miles. 20th — Halted being Sunday. 1 went up to the top of a rocky hill. Found it the most dangerous travelling I had encountered. Nearly fell to the bottom of the bill ; only saved myself by holding on to the rocks on each side by ray feet. Could see nothing, so returned. Mr. M'Rae, who had proceeded in a different direction, returned very soon after on account of the badness of the travelling, and quite as unsuccessful in being able to see anything ; but Jordan, who was able to proceed a little further, discovered the tracks of natives, from a kind of flax-sandal which they wear. 21st. — Disturbed and alarmed by the dogs barking in the night, and as Jordan had seen the tracks of natives the day before, we thought it advisable to load M'Rae's gun, and ordered Eopi to do so ; but to my surprise, when I fired the gun off this morning at a duck, found it only loaded with powder. Good walking to-day along the Awatere, but on account of the river turning and twisting so much, we bad to cross it several times. We thought we were approaching our turning place. Met with more tracks of natives and wild dogs. We camped soon after three o'clock on account of an approaching storm, having walked fifteen miles. A very good grazing country still, but very little wood. A severe snow-storm came on in the evening, and soon covered the ground one foot deep. 22nd. — Snowed heavily all night and all morning. Cleared up about ten o'clock, when Mr. M'Rae, muqh against our wishes, started up the hills to see if he could discover any plain. Nobody accompanied him, as we wished to prevent his going. Snowed heavily all the afternoon, so we kept to the tents. The snow increasing towards evening made us very anxious about Mr. M'Rae, so I sent a native at dark to " cooey :" we then fired off the gun, but no signs of the missing one, which made us more uneasy, as the snow continued very heavily at seven. After arranging how we should search for him the next morning, we went out and gave another shoot, when, to our great joy, it was answered, and a quarter of an hour afterwards Mr. M'Rae appeared, like a ghost, covered with snow, and his trousers frozen. After making him | sensible of the anxiety he had put us to, we had supper, consisting of nice weka soup, and some bread and weka, and then turned in, the snow still falling heavily. I never saw so much snow cover the ground in so short a space of time — it lay two feet deep. The tent bending down under the weight, reduced my sleeping compas to a very small space ; no stretching out at one's ease. Mr. M'Rae saw a gorge two days' walk ahead of us, which might lead us into the plain, and likely, as he had seen a river running to the east, and a lake due east, about two miles long and one and a half wide, about ten miles distant, with the river running out of it, but impossible to get at, the hills between it and us being all rocky. He saw a small lagoon about two miles to the west of us, on, the right bank of the Awatere, the source of which we had not yet discoveied. 23rd. — Impossible to proceed, the ground being so deeply covered with snow. We had now been out just a fortnight, with as bad weather as any one could wish. More snow in the afternoon, so we all agreed that it would be folly to proceed, for the farther we went the higher the ground, until the source of the Awatere was reached, consequently, we might expect more snow ; besides which, four days must elapse before we could reach the gorge and return to our present encampment, and if rain Cell, the rivers would be flooded from the quantity of snow which must inevitably wash into them. Our provisions also were just sufficient to take us back, and that after having only tasted our store-meat five times since we started, living on wekas, &c, which hitherto we had caught in abundance, but which we could not now depend upon, on account of our snowy visitation. The question was therefore settled that we should return. We enjoyed a good dinner off soup and bouilli. It is needless to give you a detail of our return homewards to Mr. W. M'Rae's station, which occupied seven days. We succeeded in shortening our road by avoiding numerons, hills. Our track has been so well marked by ourselves and horses, that I am sure any one could follow it as far as we bad been ; but, if unwilling to proceed alone, Jordan could, and I have no doubt would, show the way. I have not said so much of the country for pastoral or agricultural purposes as might be stated, because I have no wish to excite any exaggerated hopes, but, without fears of contradiction, I may assert, that the valley of the Awatere will afford considerable scope for grazing, and I am persuaded that with an expenditure of £200, a dray road might be made into it.

• aVon will observe that the distances set down as travelled by us each day are exceedingly moderate, except in one instance, so that I da not -think I can be wrong in stating that we proceeded sixty-five miles along the Awatere above Dr. Bedborough's house. A. liarEY, Lieut., Bengal Engineers.

Permanent link to this item
Hononga pūmau ki tēnei tūemi

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/NZSCSG18500717.2.6

Bibliographic details
Ngā taipitopito pukapuka

New Zealand Spectator and Cook's Strait Guardian, Volume VI, Issue 517, 17 July 1850, Page 3

Word count
Tapeke kupu
2,827

NOTES OF TRIP TO DISCOVER A PASS FROM THE WAIRAU TO THE PORT COOPER PLAINS. New Zealand Spectator and Cook's Strait Guardian, Volume VI, Issue 517, 17 July 1850, Page 3

NOTES OF TRIP TO DISCOVER A PASS FROM THE WAIRAU TO THE PORT COOPER PLAINS. New Zealand Spectator and Cook's Strait Guardian, Volume VI, Issue 517, 17 July 1850, Page 3

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