NELSON. [From the Nelson Examiner, April 6.]

New Zealand Spectator and Cook's Strait Guardian, Volume VI, Issue 493, 24 April 1850, Page 3

NELSON. [From the Nelson Examiner, April 6.]

One of tbe most important events that could happen for this settlement, would bs the discovery of a practicable route from' the Wairau to Port Cooper, or, as it is now to be called, tbe settlement of Canterbury. Between Nelson and the Wairau, it is well established that a road m»y easily be made, of one, or, at most, two days' journey, and if it should be found that a path exists to the Port Cooper country, we shall derive great advantage from its settlement by the Canterbury colonists, whenever that takes place ; — and instead of being ihut up within the horse-shoe of Blind Bay, as we have hithtrto considered ourselves, we shall have opened to us the whole southern country . on the east coast, and the island may then be traversed from one end to the other without much difficulty. To settle this important point, two gentlemen started from Nelson about a fortnight since, and had the Judge been able to keep his appointment here on the first of April, to open the Supreme Court, Captains Mitchell and Impey would by this "time have been joined by Mr. Tinline, our sheriff, who had engaged to meet them in tbe Wairau at the end of the first week in April, to proceed with them on tbe expedition they have undertaken of exploring for a pass to the southeastern plains. This delay in the arrival of the Judge is the more to be regretted, as Mr. Tinline has, since Messrs. Mitchell and Impey left, received information from some nafves, which would be of the greatest service to the party ; for should his Honour not arrive soon, these gentlemen will most most probably start from the Wairau before 1 Mr. Tinline could join them. The information received by Mr. Tinline is from two natives of the Ranghitani tribe, the original possessors of all the country at the northern end of this island, but who, in their wars with Rauparaha and hit allies, were mostly slain or made captives. These are the only natives who appear to have any knowledge of tbe interior of this part of the country, or of the passes throngh the rugged chains of mountains which intersect it in so many directions. The two natives of whom we have spoken, were members of a party who, about twenty years ago, made a hostile incursion on the tribe then residing, in the neighbourhood of Port Cooper, and, by a plan which they drew in chalk on the floor of the Sheriff's office, they have described circumI stantialiy, and with an apparent intimate knowledge of the country, the route which they took. Proceeding up the Wairau, above the Pass at the Big Wood, they describe the river winding considerably for a few miles, and tbe travel ing very rugged. They then arrived at a spot where the river forms two branches, one flowing from the south-west, and the other from the south-east. Following up the latter branch, they arrived at a small lake, from which that branch of the Wairau appears to take its rise. • Passing over a hill, and through a few miles of wooded country, in a southeast direction, the Kaiparatihau river, or AwaTera^ is encountered, with an, old pa on -itswestern bank. By this it appears, that the Kaiparatihau or Wakefiold river, is a longer stream than the Wairau, as at this place it must be above seventy miles from the sea. Proceeding round the eastern side of a hill, another river is encountered, named Waiawha, and a few miles further, the Waiautoa. There it then t considerable stretch before the next river is reached, the Waipura, which is the last obstacle to be encountered. Beyond the Waiauha, tbe natives describe the whole country to the eastward as beautiful grassy, plains, and they state that on their return, in the expedition alluded to, they accomplished the whole distance from a lake near Port Coopei to the present Wairau Pass, in three days. The testimony of these men leads us to believe that, by proceeding in the first instance up the Wakefield river, or Awa-Tera,r the rough part of the journey would be avoided, and that there exists, in fact, no difficulty in, reaching the Port Cooper plains by that route. This is the one which Mr. Tinline will try, if he is able to get away in time from Nelson, but it will be too late in the year to start on

such an expedition, unless he leaves immediately. The same natives say, that the rivers which have to be crossed offer no obstacle, as at that long distance inland, they are but inconsiderable streams, whereas, near the coast, they- contain such bodies of water that it is nearly impossible to get over them. We shall look with considerable interest for the return of Messrs. Impey and Mitchell, particularly, should they adopt the route which the natives recommend. Blasting the Rock at the Mouth of the Harboue. — Yesterday, the first attempt was made to improve the entrance to our harbour by blasting the ledge of rocks which stretches out from the Arrow Rock across nearly one-third of the channel at its narrowest part. For a few days past, Gibson (one of the constables), and Rawlings, formerly a Cornish miner, have been engaged at low water in boring a bole in the outer ledge of the rock, which terminated in a sort of pinnacle standing about a couple of feet out of the water when the tide was at its lowest, and having bored to the depth of six feet, it was determined to charge the hole, and blow up the rock yesterday afternoon. All the preliminary arrangements having been made, at about three o'clock the charge was fired, but for some reason it did not take effect. After allowing a sufficient time to elapse to ensure a safe return to the spot, the boat went up again to the rock, and a second time the touch-paper was ignited. A few seconds only now elapsed before the explosion took place, and the whole of the pinnacle was rent to pieces, tbe greater part falling into deep water, while one huge piece, supposed to.-i>fr,more thaD a ton weight, was thrown back on to the rock adjoining. By this simple and inexpensive operation, about thirty or forty tons of rock have been removed, and an additional width of ten feet given to the channel. There yet remains about twentyeight feet more of rock to be removed before the channel will be perfectly clear, and the success of the first effort having been so complete, preparations will immediately be made for the removal of the whole. There is certainly great praise due to Major Richmond, the Government representative, for undertaking this most important work, without, we believe, any special funds being placed at his disposal for the purpose; but the truly insignificant sum which the removal of the whole rock will cost (perhaps not more than £20), will ever be a standing disgrace that it was not done years ago. Thousands of pounds' worth of property have been sacrificed to this neglect, for it was here the Fifeshire went on shore, and to the same cause we may attribute the late accident to the Berkshire. It is but due to Captain Impey to state, that for what has been done we are greatly indebted to his professional services ; for after minutely inspecting the spot, it was on this gentleman's suggestions that Major Richmond went to work. Since the above was written we have been favoured with the following statement of the original width of the channel, and the probable result of the blasting, when completed. It has, however, been found on examination to-day, that the whole of the ledge is rent into fragments, tbe greater part of which can be removed with a crow-bar, and it is doubtful whether any further blasting will be necessary, excepting for the inner rock : — Feet. Original breadth of channel 220 Rock removed by blasting 10 Present channel 230 Next blasting, if successful, will remove 20ft., " by which the channel will gain 25 By blasting the inner rock of Bft., there will be a further gain of 52 Giving a clear channel of 307 — Ibid, April 13.

This following extract of a private letter from Captain Stokes of H. M. Steamer zAchtron, to. Sir George Grey relating to the districf of Port Cooper, witna Report from Mr. Hamilton, were transmitted by Sir George Grey to the Honourable Secretary for the Colonies by whom they were forwarded to the Directors of the New Zealand Company. By a typographical error in the Nev> Zealand Journal (in which they were published) the Quarter's Revenue of Otago is stated in Captain Stokes's letter to be about £5000 instead of £1000 :— Captain Stokes, R.N., to Governor Sir George Grey. H. M.'s S. Y. Acheron, Wellington, May 4, 1849. . Dear Sir George, — * * * Having thus burdened you with our wants, I basttn to say a few words on our late cruise, the extent of which you will gather from the tracings enclosed. That either the climate is vastly improved southwards, or that we were favoured with unusually fine weather, remains to be proved by a series of comparisons ; at present, I incline to the opinion that the eastern and central part of the Middle Island possesses the most favoured climate. Of ail the selections for settlements made in these

islands, that for " the Great Canterbury" has the best anchorages and the easiest of recognition, from its hill features and submarine slopes, of any I have visited in these islands : the soundings shoal to nine fathoms between the heads, and gradually to three fathoms were the Acheron lay, with the sea horizon • opening £. and £. by N. I passed a fortnight travelling over the vast savannahs lying at the foot of the hills surrounding that locality, commonly named Port Cooper, by me, Wakaraupo Bay. From an elevation of 3000 feet by barometer, near the north end of this level trace, I saw one entire plain, stretching fully a hundred miles to the southward, and watered by a multitude of streams meandering, like silver threads, in their seaward course. On the east lay the blue deep sea, broken in the distance by the many peaked hills of Bauks's Peninsula ; and on the west, at a distance varying from twenty to fifty miles, rose a range of mountains ok. sufficient elevation to have their summits cap.-. . ped with snow, and afford ample means for extending our network of triangles fully midway across the island^ Surprise at sejgng such an extent of prairie land in this rugged country, generally exhibiting the reverse features, left me in doubt for a moment as to the name I should give the whole, tbe^next suggested that of "the Great Southern Plain of , New Zealand." Northwards from Mount Maukatiro were further plains of considerable extent which Mr. Hamilton subsequently examined, and I enclose his account, with a tracing of the country north of the Great Plain. When I meet Mr. Brunner, I hope to be able-t(r gWe-his route, and to lay down, at til events, bis whereabouts wben be saw the eastern plains. You will see by the tracing, that, with the exception of thirty miles, the Middle Island has been traversed by Europeans, and that, moreover, there is a very considerable increase of acreage there. Leaving Banks's Promontory, we steered southwards for Otago, examining the intervening coast by the way. The result of our visit to this port has been to prove that there is a channel of twenty-one feet at low water, being six more than we supposed to exist. The settlers are a quiet, industrious band. Dunedin itself now consists of about 130 houses ; and the ensuing quarter's revenue is considered to be about" £5000. From a hill on the settlement, I saw the whole of the Taieri Valley, and the head of that leading from the Molyoeux river to Foveaux Strait ; the former is limited, and has many lagoons ; the, latter is distant, and without any certain sea^ approach. Some new birds, and shells, and a few plants, besides lime and an inferior coal, comprise the list of scientific contributions. Believe me, &c, (Signed) ■ J. Lorx Stokes.

Mr. HAMrtfdtf Td Capt. Stokes, R.N. H. M, S. Y. Acheron, Wellington, May 3r3 r 1849. Sir, — In forwarding to you the accompanying rough sketch of the country to the northward of Port Cooper plains and' Mount Maukatere, part of which I visited' during the Acheron's visit to the southward,' I beg to offer a few remarks on its general character. Beginning at Double Corner, a succession of low limestone ranges, alternating* with sandstone, extend from 1 the coast, and in lines parallel to it, to a distance of ten or twelve miles inland. These ranges lie close together, are somewhat- abrupt, and abound iv deep watetcourses, and excellent k«ep for sheep. -Towards the coast the gullies are wooded ;C4)ut nowhere on the hill sides, except in deep sheltered glens, is wood to be seen. Inland, these ranges begin to break into low downs and narrow valleys, a succession of which (lying for the most part in a N.E. and S-VV. direction) brings you to the two large inland plains of the Hurunui and the Waiauna. These valleys are all rich ingrass ; have a considerable depth of good soil ; and are_yery free from swampy ground. The dividing ridges are, on the average, from 500 to 1000 feet in height above the adjoining flats, and offer, in many places, easy slopes for the passage of drays from one to the other, and to the gieat plains of Port Cooper. The plain of Hurunui is about twenty-five miles long by fifteen broad, containing 242,000 acres; and that of the Waiauna is, according to the natives, double this size, oc 484,000 acres, all level, so remarkably &o indeed as to look, hemmed in as ft is by bills and mountains, like the dry bed of some Jake. Grass of the finest description, equal to si^y, ■■■ about P6n Cooper or the Messrs. Daaas*, J abounds everywhere on these plains ; generally I found it knee deep, but in many place* on the banks of streams or soft ground, breast - high, and by no means easy to ra<s through at a quick pace. There are exceedingly few swampy patches, and these are covered With such a luxuriance of grass that they arc to-be, looked upon as valuable, rather than iuipet*' ments, by any one intending io settle \\\ y' neighbourhood. Of the soil, judgin 1 what I uw at the banks of rivers.

confidently say tbat it is deep, of excellent quality, and fit for putting the plough into at any moment. 1 estimate at one- third that which, either from swampiness or having been covered by a considerable depth of gravel in some great flood, is at present only suited for keeping sheen or cattle. The Waiau is only separated from the Hurunui at its head by a low rise, and is consequently easily accessible to drays. I cannot say more of it than that it is of the same rich character as the rest of tliMpountry from Port Cooper northwards. The two plains lie about N.E. and S.W.; the rivers crossing them in a more easterly and westerly line. It is remarkable that ot the mountains bounding them, none seem to belong to any continuous range, but lie in broken ridges of ten, fifteen, or twenty miles long, and on the same N.E. and S.W. line (apparently) as the plains ; between them the natives told me are grass valleys and streams ; they were separated with sufficient clearness to enable me to trace by the eye the course of these valleys, tributaries, as it were, to the larger plains. No wood is to he seen elsewhere than on the mountains ; here, however, rimu (red pine), totara, kahikatea (white pine), matae, (black pine), and towbai (or black birch) [a beech], are in abundance. The Hurunui runs through the deep gorge by which is one of the passes to the west coast. To the north, of this gorge is a high tange, beyond which again is a plain, partly grass and partly wooded. This" succession of plain' and mountain continues the whole way to the west coast, and. in like manner to ,jthe .nprthward, towards th'e Waiau Toa and the Wairau. The Waiau Toa is represented to be a much larger river than the Wjiimakoriri; and asrunniqg through a beautiful tract of country. The easiest access' to it yould be from the Wairau probably'; tiutthere is'an old native path to it, crossing the low part of the Kaikora (Lookers-on) rprige.' 1 ' The whole of this 'country, between Kaikora Peninsula and jihe Waiau is covered with grass, much of it is a limestone formation. I have said little l 6f th'e beautiful little plain of the Waipafa, at the north-east fotot of Mount Maukatere, as I should only Have to repeat what I 'have mentioned about the others, none of which, however, surpass it in the quality of the grass. ' It is abdut : eight miles by fifteen, and' contains some 70,000 acres. The actual amounjt oP land from Double Corner to* Kaiko'HT Pyninstria, "' taking the mountain range on the west" of Hurunui and south- w,est of Waiau as a boundary, I estimate at' 1)1500,000' acres, 'divided as follows :—: — * ' Acres. Plain— Waipara, about 76,000 Waikare , ' 38,000 Hurunui ...240,000 Waiau » 480,000 Undulating Land and' Downs . .' 100,000 934,000 Leaving for rugged country, but good for sheep runs ...... 566,000 The next great block beyond f,rom Kaikora Peninsula to Kowiniwini is by the sketch nearly of the 'same extent ;' but as it may be much broken, I will attempt only an estimate of that adjoining the Waiau-toa, to which from its size I may fairly allow a course of fifty-six or sixty miles, with an ayeiage breadth of ten miles available land on its banks, — Acres. This would give about 358^000 And allowing for broken country, suited | for sheep, one-third 152,000 510,000 1,500,000 Total with last block 1 2,010,000 It is the general opinion of the settlers ahout Banks's Peninsula, that the sheep thrive far better on the hills than on the plains ; thus strengthened by experience, I have not hesitated to include in the estimate parts of the country which to me would have seemed almost useless, had I not visited Motunau station' and been able to judge of the great value of even the most broken parts of the sea coast. I found a great extent of fossiliferous limestone containing innumerable specimen* of shells of great beauty, and in a high state of preservation : but time, want of tools, and great hardness of the matrix prevented my carrying away any more than one or two pieces. 1 also found two other descriptions of stone highly crystallized, containing mostly broken fragments of shells, but I could see no indication of coal or metal. Of the climate I can speak only from observation during a very limited time ; I had to complain of but one day's wet, and one or two mornings showery before six o'clock, — hnt^ accordmg to the natives it is preferable to that of the Northern Island (which latter h,ave reason to know from experience), inNch as the seasons are settled and clearly '-rrand slight frosts in winter greatly << farmer. June, July, August are

decidedly wet months ; May partly showery, September, October, showery ; November less so ; December, January, February, March, April are depended upon as steadily fine months. During three and thirty days, during which my two visits inland (alone and with yourself) lasted, I had but this one wet day stopping my progress. I never before was so long in this country without rain and bad weather. I have, &c. (Signed) W.J.W. Hamilton.