Mr. BRUNNER'S LATE EXPLORING EXPEDITION. (Continued from No. 338.)

New Zealand Spectator and Cook's Strait Guardian, Volume V, Issue 341, 8 November 1848, Page 3

Mr. BRUNNER'S LATE EXPLORING EXPEDITION. (Continued from No. 338.)

1 Stir. — A fine morning after the fog had risen, and, again mounting our respective burdens, made a start, leaving our wrong turn. The way lay through a thick though level bush, steering by compass due S., when in about two miles we came to another moderately large stream, but a branch, from the main stream, the, junction of which I could see, and which. I considered was bearing too much for the S.W. ; so we took the branch, and ascenJed about three mileSj when Ekehu so increased the weight of our loads by the addition of eleven large eels, that we resolved to stop and eat some of them. The land on either bank is level, and mostly wooded, the timber of which is chiefly of the pine tribe. Fine day. The Grey is certainly a fine river for New Zealand, arid worthy the name of our Governor, after whom it is called. Could it be but connected with a harbour, it would make a fine field' for colonisation, there being much good land fit for arable purposes, good grazing land in nice well-sheltered positions, fine timber for sawing, quite accessible, and a quantity of fine kauri sticks for spars. 19th. — We came about three miles to the edge of another grass" plain, when the rain, which had been falling in showers, began to wet us "through, and we were compelled to erect a shelter. 20th. — Very warm day. 21st. — Walked along the grass plain about four miles, when we came to a division of the v river, where I resolved to look a-head before I ,carried my load ; so I went forward, and ascending a small fern elevation on the grass

plain, I chose the branch bearing mostE. for our course, and re'urned to my campment. Fine. 22d. — After walking about two miles along the grass, we came to a part of the river shut in between two low ridges of hills covered with black birch, which extended about two miles, when we again came to the open country, consisting of grass, fern, flax, and manuka, which reaches a.head as far as the eye can obaerve, and is about three of four miles deep, bounded by a high range. "We progressed some three or four miles, keeping the banks and bed of the river, which is not very deep here, and better walking than the grass, &c, find camped for the night on the plain. I lit several fires during the day, which burnt all night, and freed us from the nuisance of the sand-fly and musquito, with which this river abounds. Fine. 23d. — The appearauce of the country be" fore us induced us to spend a day here on a small patch dt fern, and obtain and prepare, its root. Fine day, but too warm to last, being sultry hot. There is nothing like keeping up the stock of provisions in the bush, whenever an opportunity offers, although your back has to suffer from the weight ; for in this country it is oftea much easier to exhaust than to replenish your stock. I am ' obliged to keep the natives as well fed as possible, for they are continually murmuring, and telling me they are sure, if they continue to follow me, I shall starve them. They have several times threatened to return to the Mawera, and live with their countrymen, rather than take their chance in, the bush of safely reaching Nelson. The natives bear hunger badly, and become irritable in temper, and lazy. 24th. — We agreed this morning on the necessity of erecting a shelter against the coming storm, which we saw approaching us, and which reached us about mid-day, just as we were housiug our baggage, accompanied with some thunder. Caught a few small eels. 25th. — Rain, thunder and lightning, with a few heavy gusts of wind. -' „ 26th. — Walked about three miles, when the storm again overtaking us, we built another shelter. The grass and open country I still bounds the northern bank of the river, and averages a depth of about four miles. 27th. — Staying at our campment. 28th. — Fine. Walked about five miles, when we came to the terminus of the grass, and where the river commences its course between two black birch banks. 29th. — Last night the natives found a hole of water, in which they caught thirty-five eels. They would not hear of stirring to day, but set to work to dry and smoke the fish, after taking out the bones. If eels' are carefully wiped dry, not skinned, the head cut off, and opened down tlie belly, the bones carefully taken out, and the flesh exposed to the smoke to dry, they can be preserved some months, and this is the best way of eating the eels of this country. An eel of about sor ,6 pounds is the best, and when dry, if soaked some few hours in water, and then toasted over a slow fire, is very good. Fine. March Ist. — This morning, while the natives were packing the fish and other things, I counted no less than fifty-four eels, each averaging about 31bs., making a heavy load for each of us to carry ; and I was obliged to take the heaviest to keep good humour amongst them, and to be able to laugh at them when they complained of being tired. Weproceedded about a mile, when Epiki found a good eel station, and nothing would induce him to pass it, so I left him. to fish. Progressing about a mile further, we came to an open tract of country, consisting of grass, manuka, toi-toi, &c. We walked about three mile's further, keeping the river's bed and banks, when a fall of rain gave us the necessary trouble of erecting a temporary shelter. 2d. — This motniug I lighted a fire on the plain, and the wind changing, drove the fire on us, which 'burnt our shelter, but the day proved fine, so we cared not. Walked about a mile to the terminus of the grass plain, and again took to the river's bank, or rather bed, which recommenced its course between the black birch. Proceeded three miles further, and awaited the arrival of Epiki. Some of the bends of the river I passed' to day afford the most beautiful scenery conceivable. The river is clear aad deep, and runs over a bright shingle bed ; the underbrush on the banks is a beautiful mixture of variegated shrubs, and the adjoining forest fine lofty rimu, rata, and black birch, with here and there a small patch of fern land. lam so pleased with the Grey river that I should not object to visit it again. A great number of dogs have taken to the bush here, which sadly lessetas the quantity of ground birds for which this river was noted. In the hills bounding the Grey, I caught four kakapos, or green ground parrots. They are a beautiful bird in plumage. 3d. — We again progressed, and accomplished a distance of about six miles, which, from the weight of out loads and the quantity of dead timber in the river, was a hard day**

work. The valley is now fast narrowing, and I hope another day's walk will take us to the foot of the mountain Tange, for I am anxious to get a view of the country to learn something of my whereabouts. 4th. — Commencing to rain, we erected a shelter, but were compelled to resort to the black birch for a covering. In the night the ware separated just over my sleeping quarters, which gave me a most uncomfortable night's lodging ; raining all night. 5 th. — Raining until nearly night, when the wind changed, and gave us hopes of a fine morning. 6th. — Rainy. 7th. — This morning proved fine enough to induce as to leave our lodgings and proceed. We took the bed" of the river for about two miles, and then deserted the main stream for a branch bearing E., which we ascended about one mile. We then resolved to abandon the rivers altogether, and take to the low iange hounding the southern bank. Ascending this, and walking along the ridge about three miles, we discerned a river, distant about two miles, and agreed to make a push to spend the night on its banks. We reached it just at nightfall, when the^ thunder, which had been following us all day, overtook us, and we had to erect a shelter by the light of the fire. Bth. — On looking about this morning, we found this to be the Oweka, a river flowing into the Buller, and we resolved to spend the day in exploring and bird catching. The pass from the branch of the Grey to the Oweka is a single ridge, with not much inclination, easy of ascent and descent, and the bush open and free of roots. A communication from river to river, even for a cart, might be made by simply clearing the underbrush. The Oweka is a river of some size and extent, and appears to come a long distance from the southward. 9th. — Started to cross the valley, taking an easterly course. Found the valley to be about three miles wide, when we came to the rising ground, which we ascended, and slept on the side of the mountain. Fine. 10th. — Reached the summit of the hill this evening, and found it to be covered with a low fern, &c, commanding a fine view of the interior of the island. I could discern mountains which I knew at the Roturoa, on •the river Buller, and on the West Coast, but the weather was too foggy to admit of my seeing the low land. 11th. — Being a fine clear day, I could see from here the large grassy plain of Port Cooper, which appeared to commence from the high mountains in a series of grassy hills. The hill I ascended was very steep and high, and bad walking owing to the dead limber and loose stones ; but the natives told me their pass over this range to the east is low and easy, and takes only one day from river to river, and that it then takes a week's walking on the grass plain before they reach the sliore. lam told some natives, four years ago, crossed the island in seventeen days. I much wished to descend to the grass plain, and try and reach the East Coast, but the natives one and all refused, and told me I had kept them already far too long away from Nelson, and that the payment I promised them was too little for what they had previously done ; and even on a promise of a further payment they also refused, so I was obliged, reluctantly, to abandon my desire, and return towards Nelson. 12th. — The natives not willing to spend the day on the summit of the hill, and refusing to follow the course I wished to take to reach the Matukituki valley, saying that if I did not return to the river we had left, they would do so without me, for that we should all be starved if we ventured to push forward by a short toute in a black birch country, I was compelled to descend the hill by nearly the same route I had ascended. I did not wish to follow the circuitous course of the river, but to travel by compass towards the Matukituki valley or the Roturoa, but the natives iusisted that the river was the only place where food could be obtained. Fine. i ] 3th. — Reached the banks of the river, and camped about a mile from where we first made it. Fine. 14 th. — The natives having heard numerous cries of the weka last night, wished to stop here, to which I assented, having again hurt my weak ancle, and which was giving me much pain. The river here is very pretty, flowing between two grassy banks of narrow extent, when the wood commences, consisting of fine stately pines of all the kinds — kauri, kaikatiha, rimu, totara, maitai, with here and there a large birch, forming a most beautiful foliage. We had a little rain in the evening, but a fine night. During the day the natives caught twenty-seven wekas, and I" treated my ' dog to a whole weka for' his supper in addition to a liberal supply of bones. The weka or wood-hen is the most useful and valuable bird for a bush ranger. In the months of May, June, and July, they feed on the berry of the the karamu, and get very fat, attaining a great size. By any one imitating

their cry they are easily captured, for on hearing a call, they answer and approach, and then are caught by a snare tied to a short small stick. I have taken them with my hands, only by shaking before them a katuhituhi, or robin. They are very pugnacious, and will fly at a bunch of feathers, or a piece of red rag. 15th. — I was surprised on awaking this morning to find a fresh* in the river, having had but little rain yesterday ; we however made a start, and walked about a mile down the bank, when the natives finding a spot they fancied for eel fishing, they wanted to stop. I became angry, and urged the necessity of proceeding, stating we had plenty of provisions, and were losing fine weather ; so they agreed, and I again mounted ray load and proceeded, when on looking back I saw the women still at the eel station. Ou remonstrating with them, I only got laughter, and I was forced to laugh too, for I find there is nothing like showing good temper in dealing with these ! natives ; besides, I doubt if it would really [ answer to quarrel with them in such wilds, and I so far from a settlement. Fine. [ 16th. — The game list of yesterday stood as follows :—29: — 29 wekas, 2 young paradise ducks, 1 grey duck, 2 dab-chicks, 2 sparrow hawks, and 17 eels. What we are to do with all I I do not know, for as to eating them while sweet it is impossible, and we have no means of keeping them unless we stop and construct an air-tight bag of totara bark, which I object to on account of the delay. There is some difference in our stock of provisions now, and in the month of May last year, which I spent on the river Buller ; and so is a bush life full of feasts and fasts. After the fog had risen we commenced our day's walk, and proceeding five miles down the shingle of the river, came to a moderately-sized stream flowing from the south-east, the inviting appearance of which caused me to leave my load and take a short trip up its banks. Ascending rather more than a mile, I came to a large tract of land, consisting of fern, grass, &c, the extent of which I considered to be about 12,000 or 14,000 acres, belted by a forest of fine large pines, also covering a large extent of level land. Returned to my load, which I mounted on my back, and went forward, taking the shingle of the river, and proceeding about five miles, camped for the night. After arranging our sleeping quarters, and eating our supper, Ekehu caught eleven wekas in sight of our camp. Fine. 17th. — Another fine day, and again on our way, still keeping on the bank of the river, which was now rapidly increasing in size from the drainage of the surrounding country. 18th. — The appearance of the weather, after walking about five miles, induced us to stop and erect a shelter in a fine manuka grove, using the bark of the trees for thatch, which is very watertight, and easily obtainable. 19th. — No rain during the night, but soon after daybreak it commenced, and we had a moderately wet day. Much annoyed by sandflies. 20lh — The weather permitting us to proceed, we travelled down the shingle, the country still showing a large tract of very fine timbered land on either bank, and came to a part of the river shut in between two low cliffs, composed of a sort of limestone, but level on the surface, and covered with the pine tribe. These cliffs extended about three miles. About two miles beyond them we camped, being tired, the rain of yesterday rendering it difficult to cross the river, and frequently driving us into the bush. I believe .if we had provisions spoiling for W3nt of eating, and had loads under which we could scarcely stagger, nothing would induce Ekehu to pass a weka, or remain at the fire if there was a chance of an eel in the river, so great is his natural love of *"sport. So it was last night ; I pressed on him to forbear fishing; but no, he must be off, and return with twenty eels. v 21st. — This morning we had to take a most formidable fords but managed to cross safely, j with the exception of wetting Epiki's load. We had proceeded about two miles when Ekehu, just after taking an awkward ford, and ascending the bank, missed his footing, and fell into a hole head and ears ; so we had to stop and kindle a fire to dry his kit. Made another start, and after travelling two miles more, erected a shelter against the falling rain. Fortunately the night proved fine. ' Two or more persons crossing a river will find it much easier and safer for all to bold one stick, using both hands to it, and holding it on the palm of the hand, the elbow downward, the strongest person being up the stream; the quicker you walk the better, taking care to keep the step of the leader. It is a curious feeling, particularly to your feet, which, from the force of the stream and slipperiness of the stones, seem scarcely to touch the bottom. 22d. — A fresh in the river, the beastly drip of the bush, with a plentiful supply of provisions, formed sufficient excuses for remaining under our comfortable shelter another day. 23rd,— Made a start, and^ifter crossing ,the river five times, the water breast high, for the

sake o£ getting shingle walking, came to a reach, locking down which we could discover the country ef the Buller, when my companions started off lo try which should arrive there first. When we reached the Buller, we found it much swollen. Walked about seven miles during the day, the country presenting the same appearance as before. 24th. — Again on my way for Nelson, retracing my steps on the banks of the Buller, but it was on the southern bank we were now ! travelling. Made a moderate day's walk. Found a kakas nest containing five young birds. j 25th. — Moving forwards at a good pace, having accomplished as great a distance in the ' last" two days as we did in three on our journey down the river on the northern bank. Tried [ a new species of fruit, the berries of the moko, which is very palatable when you have attained the proper knowledge of eating them. You must guage your mouth so that your teeth will only slightly crush the berry without breaking the seed, which has a most nauseous | bitter taste. ! 26th. — Last night took a draught with our | net, and caught about fifty good-sized upukorpro. 27th. — Walked about five miles, three of which I would challenge against any country even in New Zealand ; and by nightfall reached a small fern patch, where we erected a shelter by firelight. Heavy rain all night. 28th. — Rainy. 29th. — Proceeded at a gallant pace, we came to our former fearful descent of the sth of April last, and had to ascend a steep hill, which took the remainder of the day. Fine. 30th. — Very bad walking. The immense gigantic rocks that belt the river rendered it impossible for us to keep the bank, and the mountains were too high to ascend, so our day's walking was one continual ascending the spurs and descending the water courses, which only brought us on a short distance by nightfall, when there was every appearance of rain. 31st. — Just as we were turning into our blankets last evening, rain came pouring down. We however managed to find squatting room under a large dead tree that had been blown down,- which kept us dry until morning, when we built a shelter. April Ist. — Heavy rain and gusts of wind, which gave us all a good soaking. Luckily, Ekehu had caught eels enough to last us two days with moderation. 2d. — Rain and thunder. A fresh in ths river. 3d. — The rain continued, to pour down, about mid-day s stream came rolling from the cliffs above us, destroying what we had been working at all the morning to render our situation comfortable. The fresh also increased so fast, that the natives declared we must find means to ascerid the cliff, or we should all be carried away by the flood, which prevented us from going either backward. So we made a sort of ladder, and managed to clamber up about twenty feet to another ledge, to which we drew up enough of our old shed to erect a break against the wind, but we had no shelter; and we were just able to keep the kits containing our food dry during the night, and nothing more. 4th. — Made our shed habitable ; rain and thunder continuing. This was truly a wretch- j ed day to spend on a cliff in a black birch forest. The rain poured down in torrents, and loosened the stones of which the hill was formed, and these rolled by us and plunged into the river with a fearful noise. The wind tore up the trees on every side, and the crash which ensued caused a simultaneous shudder by all hands. sth. — An increase Jd the gale; and the fresh in the river exceeding all bounds, having risen forty feet perpendicular. God only knows when we shall be able to proceed, for to ascend is impossible, and we can move nowhere until the'fresh subsides. (To be continued J