MR. SUTTON’S JOURNAL.

New Zealand Colonist and Port Nicholson Advertiser, Volume I, Issue 14, 16 September 1842, Page 4

MR. SUTTON’S JOURNAL.

(Continued.) After passing a most uncomfortable night, we proceeded onwards tlie following morning, and entered a splendid fern country, tolerably level, the hills gradually rising on our right; while to the south-west was a continuation of the extensive valley watered by the Waikato. Small forests of knikitea occurred at inter\ als, and the soil consisted generally of a rich black mould, which could be cultivated with but little difficulty. The valley would answer admirably for "razing purposes, there being an abundance of rich grass. We passed over several portions of ground formerly under cultivation, but now deserted. On mounting the summit of a small hill, I obtained a most picturesque view of Rotaira. and the adjacent country. The lake appeared to be directly under my feet, surrounded on all sides but the north, by lofty ranges of hills, covered to the tops with thick forests and scrub. Considerable quantities of flat land extended from the bases of the hills to the banks of the lake, a tolerable portion of which was under cultivation, and numerous small settlements were scattered at short intervals. A very

gradual descent brought us into the level ground, and passing a Small wood, composed almost entirely of matahi trees, with a tew small kauri, we reached the lake. The natives have fenced in about twenty acres of beautiful grass land, perfectly level, and of an excellent nature, which is intended for cultivation next season. Skirting the northern extremity of the lake for about a mile, we arrived at a small miserable settlement, the residence of a chief to whom I had a letter from Te Pahi, directing him to furnish me with guides to Wanganui. There did not appear to be much satisfaction amongst the natives when the letter was read, and I could plainly see that they were reluctant to undertake the journey. Old Kohou however exerted himself for me, and, after some delay, when the subject was defered to the morrow, they began to feast, Kohou being a visitor of considerable importance. I was of course aware it was useless to attempt a renewal of the subject that nigftt. The following day a long discussion took place, when I was promised a guide, but informed that I must wait until the weather should assume a better appearance. Every person travelling in New Zealand should possess au extra stock of patience; I drew largely on mine, and resigned myself to my fate, taking this opportunity of visiting the surroun ding settlements, all of which exhibited a degree of filth and misery, totally unknown at Taupo. They live in a most wretched manner, notwithstanding the capabilities of comfort with which * they are surrounded. The soil mi all sides is excellent, producing as fine potatoes, kumeras, and turnips, as I have seen in the Island. The lake teems with the mountain trout, which, although small, are excellent in a fresh state, and not disagreeable when smoked. Great quantities are preserved for winter consumption, by placing them, directly they are caught, on a sort of table composed of fine wicker work about four feet from the ground, under which a fire is kept constantly burning day and night, until the fish arc considered sufficiently dry for preservati- n. Their method of boiling the fish was rather primitive : possessing no large iron pot, a large trough was hollowed out of a block of wood, into which, being half filled with water, the fish were emptied, and by immersing a quantity of red-hot stones, speedily cooked, forming a sort of thick fish s. up, very rich, and, with the additi< >n of pepper and salt, palatable. The lake was covered with swarms of duck and teal, so tame that they allowed me to approach within a yard of them, without being in the least disturbed. This was owing to the Mai tries possessing no shot. I, however, managed to bring down a brace, by means of a musket loaded with small stones. The following day being Sunday, I o uild, of course, not get any one to start, nor did I press them. On Monday, however, the day being lowering, neither the persuasions of old Kohou, nor my own, could induce them to start. I was very much annoyed, but they were obstinate, I then endeavoured to persuade one of them to accompany me up Tongarido, in which attempt I was equally unsuccessful, the mountain being strictly tabooed. I was, however, determined to visit it, and started off by myself, having gained from Koliou, that the mountain, of a dromedary shape, to the westward of the lake, on which numerous hot springs are visible, ar.d from the highest peak of which smoke and steam are constantly issuing, was not the real “ Simon Pure,” which lay between that and Ruapaha. I started on my journey early in the morning, stating that I should visit the neighbouring settlements, and return in a day. Winding round the northern base of the dromedary hill, after a three hours’ walk, I came in sight of Ruapaha, totally covered with snow, and consisting of several peaks, and shortly afterwards, of Tongarido, which is in shape like a puritanical hat, in the time of Charles the Second. Large volumes of smoke were issuing from the crater, and it was impossible to approach sufficiently near to obtain a satisfactory view of any part of its interior. An opportune gust of wind gave me a slight glimpse of the opposite side, which appeared to be about three or four

hundred yards over : of its depth, I can, of course, form not the slightest idea. Lake Taupo was not visible, in consequence of a high intemiening range; but Mount Egmont, at Taranaki, did not appear more than twenty or thirty miles distant. I saw but one stream of water during my ascent, and no vegetation of any sort; all was barren and desolate. • (To be Continued.)