MR. SUTTON’S JOURNAL.

New Zealand Colonist and Port Nicholson Advertiser, Volume I, Issue 13, 13 September 1842, Page 3

MR. SUTTON’S JOURNAL.

(Continued.)

This river runs through a deep gorge of the mountains, extending in a north-easterly direction, and is fed by numerous small tributary streams, having their sources in the surroundingranges. On visiting the many small settlements scattered a short distance from the banks of the lake, I observed the character of the country to improve greatly, assuming a milder appearance, consisting of plains of considerable extent, thickly covered with high fern. The natives have some very large cultivation grounds, principally of potatoes, the climate being too cold to admit of either corn or kumeras attaining perfection.. Returning to the beach we travelled on for seven or eight miles when our progress was stopped by a broad and rapid river, being the Waikato, which takes its rise in Lake Rotoaira, running, during its course, between that lake and Taupo, through a most magnificent valley of flat, and, as the natives assert, fertile land, bounded to the eastward by high tabular hills. We found the river too deep and rapid to ford, but after some delay discovered a small canoe, planted amongst the rushes; we, however, could not find any

paddles; we accordingly started off with' nothing but some large sticks, and the native at the stern being unable to manage the canoe, we got capsised in an eddy about the middle of the stream, and had to swim to the opposite j bank, shoving the canoe before us. We reached the land about two hundred yards lower than the place from which we started, dnd I was glad enough to find, that thanks to the precaution I had adopted in fastening my knapsack to the canoe, 1 had lost nothing, although every' thing was perfectly saturated with water. After a shprt walk from the banks of the river, found ourselves at the south-eastern extremity of the lake. The lofty hill to our right, reminded me, at the distance from which I viewed it, of Madeira, to which it presented a remarkable resemblance in shape. Numerous columns of steam were ascending from the hot springs which are scattered over its sides'—and which reach about half way up, the remainder, to the summit, being covered with thick forest. Turning off in an easterly direction we crossed a muddy swamp about two miles across, which during the winter season is evidently flooded, as, although no rain had fallen for several weeks, we were in many places above our knees in water. Emerging from the swamp we entered a fine undulating country, extending to the base of a range of mountains running nearly due N. and S. The soil was principally composed of light reddish clay, thinly ferned. We occasionally crossed large patches of ground, many of them formerly under cultivation, but now covered with high fern, growing on a rich black mould. To the eastward was a splendid valley, extending as far as the eye could reach, apparently perfectly level, through the centre of which ran the Waikato river, forming a water communication between Lakes Taupo and Rotoaira. Skirting the base Qf the hills, we quitted the level ground and entered a thick forest, composed principally of Kaikitea and Totara, an hour’s walk bringing us to a large Pa, in which we found only a few women, the men being absent at the cultivation grounds. The best Maori house I have seen was in this Pa, being about forty feet long by twenty broad, and the walls nearly seven feet high. The pannels of which the inside lining was formed, were most beautifully carved, and a full length figure of a Maori splendidly tattooed, formed the lower portion of a post supporting the ridge pole of the warre. The roof was formed of bullrush worked in a variety of colors, and no fire or smoking was allowed inside, for fear of blackening it. The women seeming anxious to deter me from approaching a small building, more highly ornamented than the others; I found out that it contained several preserved heads, formerly belonging to some head chiefs who had been murdered by the Rotoaira tribe. I was desirous of seeing them, but found it useless to attempt to persuade them to allow my approach. They said that Captain Symonds and Dr. Dieffenbach had also wished to see them, but were refused. All the inhabitants of this Pa are strict missionaries. After partaking of some refreshments, we started again through the forest. I was surprised at seeing the quantity of land which had been fenced in with close paling, and which extended for more than two miles in a straight line. The interior had evidently been cultivated some not very long time back, but the numerous huts we met with at short distances from each other were uninhabited and gradually falling into decay. Towards evening we arrived at several small Pas ; which, however, old Koliou refused entering, saying they belonged to a man universally detested by his neighbours. Around each of these were large patches of land under cultivation, every thing, growing in the greatest luxuriance. It was late when we arrived at another large settlement, where the natives appeared to be divided into two classes, the missionaries and the devils, as they are called. I was glad to rest after our long walk, and to old Kohou’s amazement, took up my quarters among the “ devils,” a tabooed sick woman being in the best missionary house

(To he Continued.)