NOTES Of a short Tour into the Interior of the Northern Colony of New Zealand, in March and April; 1852. (Continued.)
In riding across the plains we kept along the usual bridle-path, which was rather circuitous, and in one part of our journey had to ascend to the top of some hills near the base of Maungatautara, from the highest of which we obtained a magnificent view of the surrounding country, and looked down on the plains below, as on a map, dotted with Native villages, interspersed with clumps of forests, and delineated with lakes, streams, and rivers, which, in the brightness of the cloudless sunshine, appeared like fountains of liquid silver. Our view extended in one direction over the whole delta of the Waipa and Waikato, and toward* the south-west, in i&e direction of the Mokau river —it was altogether unbroken , and bounded by the horizon, which, united, in extent could not be estimated at less than one million acres of unequalled fertility. We could not resist the attractions of this enchanting view, and passed away some time admiring the scene ; but no language can adequately describe the incomparable beauty of the diversified and magnificent landscape which lay before us. After descending the hill, we crossed some patches of grassy plains, and before we got to the end of our journey it was long past simset: there was a bright moon, however, which showed us the way, and we reached the shieling of Messrs. Culbert and Walker, at Maungatautara, a little after eight o'clock, from whom we experienced a cordial welcome. Maungatautara is a large volcanic hill of considerable height, situated at the eastern extremity of the delta near the Horatu, and remarkable for its picturesque beauty, being wrapped from top to base in the luxuriant masses of foliage peculiar to a New Zealand forest; and the native village is situated on a slope at the base of the mountain, and scattered, like Rangahaphia, over a considerable extent of enclosed and cultivated volcanic land of the finest description, about two" miles from the Horatu. There is a mill-dam and flour-mill close to the village, little inferior to any in the colony, which was built by Messrs. Culbert and Walker, and the workmanship, as well as style in which the whole is finished, do these parties infinite credit. We had some difficulty in obtaining a canoe at this place to take 'us down the river to Kaitotohe, for which the natives demanded a most exhorbitant fare; but after some delay we were obliged to accede to their terms, and agreed with a party who charged us one pound for the canoe and ten shillings for each native, but they alleged as a reason for charging this large sum that it would take five of them three days to return with the canoe, having a strong current opposed to them in ascending the river. We left Maungatautara the following day, and soon reached the Horatu, where we found our canoe prepared for us, and mustered rather a strong party, having, besides our three natives, five of our new allies. Having the current with, us, we descended the river easily, and soon arrived at the rapids a few miles below Maungatautara, which consist of a swift descent for twenty or thirty yards, in three different parts of the river, at some distance from each other; and the river at this place, for about a couple of miles, is compressed into a narrow channel, from one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet wide, worn through a bed of hard black sandstone, with perpendicular banks on each sidej in some places upwards of one hundred feet high. The 1 natives informed us that, in descending this part of the river, the Pakchas usually left the canoe and walked down the river's bank; but we consideied that, if the natives were safe, we could run no risk in being with them, and therefore remained in the canoe. When we approached the rapids two natives took their places at the stern of the canoe, in order to steer with greater steadiness and keep the prow down the stream; and as soon as we entered them the natives plied their paddies with great vigour and effect, and the steersmen keeping the canoe right down the stream, we shot down with great" swiftness, and were soon in smooth water. In like manner we passed the two others; the first that we came to, however, was the only one of importance, but even that was insignificant, and in descending the whole is not a more formidable affair than shooting the arch of London Bridge in a wheny. The natn es drag their canoes heavily loaded up these rapids, and a five-oared whalcboat could ascend without difficulty in all seasons. After clearing the rapids, we glided smoothly down the stream, and soon after arriviii" ut a convenient landing-place, which our new allies represented to be a convenient spot for a dinner encampment, we stepped on shore, and leaving (lie natives engaged in their culinary opeiationCwc walked about two miles into the
country on theeast bank of the river, wludi consists of open dry land covered with grass, and is the best sheep country lliavc &ccn in this part of .New /Se.iLind. We bad not time to proceed further, but for many miles the country appeared to consistof grassy plains, with patches of wood, and very level, as we had a distinct view of Towpiri, the lull at Kaitotohe, which must be twenty-five miles distant from this place, which is called the lloratu, and extends almost to the llivcr Thames. We observed a few native huts, and going up to them, saw a couple of iron ploughs, which, one of the natives informed us, had lately been purchased, for the purpose of preparing the land for growing wheat, which appears to be the ruling passion among the natives all over the country at present. On resuming our journey, the natives made up for their delay, and, bending to their padd'ea, swept down the stream in gallant stjlc, and did not slacken the pace for an hour, in winch we must have descended at least ten miles. The current of the liver runs from three to four miles an hour, which is a great assistance in descending — but the natives informed us that, in ascending, their average rate was not more than two miles. The floratu is much deeper than the Waikato, in some places nearly as" broad, and perfectly navigable in every part for fifty miles above the junction of the Waipa. The natives continued to ply Iheir paddles without ceasing, and we arrived at Kaitotohe .1 little after sunset, where we found our two natives with the canoe we had left near the source of the Waipa. On the following day we descended the Waikato, and might have reached Marshall's Inn the same evening, but the nali\es were very anxious to encamp for the night about ten miles above it, and we did not insist on proceeding farther. We breakfasted the following morning at Itakawatira, opposite Marshall's Inn, and continued our course down the river, which in some places is j nearly half a mile broad, and entered the Awaroa the same afternoon. (To be continued.)
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New Zealander, Volume 8, Issue 648, 30 June 1852, Page 2
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1,217NOTES Of a short Tour into the Interior of the Northern Colony of New Zealand, in March and April; 1852. (Continued.) New Zealander, Volume 8, Issue 648, 30 June 1852, Page 2
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