NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY THROUGH PART OF THE NORTHERN ISLAND OF NEW ZEALAND, IN 1849. [CONCLUDED.]

New Zealander, Volume 5, Issue 390, 9 January 1850, Page 3

NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY THROUGH PART OF THE NORTHERN ISLAND OF NEW ZEALAND, IN 1849. [CONCLUDED.]

From Otawhao we passed over a few miles of level countiy to the river Waipa, which we crossed, and endeavored to reach a Wcsleyan Mission &tation by walking along the left bank : but our guides mistook the way. At sunset it began to rain heavily, and after crossing several swamps and ravines, we finally reached the station— wet, cold, and weary, jujt as the family were about to retue to rest. Unseasonable as was the hour, on a Saturday night, we were most hospitably leceived ; and during our stay there, the utmost kindness and attention was shown us by the Rev. Mr. Buttle and his family. The native congregation at the chapel on Sunday was not very numerous, as the upper part of the Wuipa, near the hills, is not so populous as the countiy nearer the Waikato. Our course had led us hitherto through parts of the country chiefly under the influence of Church of England and Romanist Missionaries, but though coining later into tlie field than their brethien of the Episcopal Church, the Wesleyan Missionaries have had their full share in promoting the good work that has been effected. Their stations occupy the weitern side of the Northern Island from Ifokianga to Wanganui, and also part of the Middle Inland. — The efforts of the Missionaries of all denominations are not only directed to the conversion of the natives to Christianity, but also to the general training of the young — for which purpose icvernl excellent ichools have been established, which are aided by grants from the Colonial Treasury. Ai the New Zealanders arc in habits of industry, aptitude to acquire a knowledge of European arts, and fondness for agriculture different from most of the aboriginal inhabitants of other lands who have disappeared before the colonising progress of our race, it may be boped that the noble efforts which are being made in their behalf may piove successful in completely civilizing them, and turning the force of character and intellect which they possess to perfecting a knowledge of such occupations as may render them serviceable to the colonists who will vnlue and cherish them in proportion to their usefulness. — The progress they have made of late years is already felt, for they help to a contiderable extent to supply the markets with flour, potatoes, and other vegetables, and aid the settlers in all the business of the farm. They are also employed as masom and labourers on public works, and roads, near Auckland and Wellington. The banks of the Waipa are extremely fertile, though not very picturesque. The scenery at the meeting of of its waters with those of the Waikato is very beautiful; and a vast extent of good land can be seen from any eminence! We called at the Church Mission station, Kaitotahi, on our way down (he river, and were most kindly received by Mrs. Ashwell— her husband being absent with a tribe who had gone on a warlike expedition across the country. On such (now rare) occasions, the Misiioimrici generally accompany their people, in the hope of making peace ; and as Mr- Ashwell returned before we left, we learned that he had been successful on this occasion. The opposing tribe, with whom a dispute about land had arisen, were also accompanied to the place of meeting by their Missionary, a Wesleyan, and by the joint efforts of theie two gentlemen and an officer in the service of Government, who had opportunely arrived, two bodies of armed New Zealanders were induced to lay aiide their wenpons, and refer the settlement of the dispute to the Governor-in-Chief, in whom they huve perfect confidence. I have mentioned this incident to shew you how tenacious the New Zealandeis are of any interference with the possession of their so-called waste lands ; and yet how amenable to the counsel* of those whom they know to bo their friends. The tribes of Waikato, numbering sereral thousand men, took no part in the wars which agitated the northern and southern parts of the colony, and their leaders would be more likely to follow Walker's example than to take part with any turbulent chiefs of their own race : yet those who hare studied their character are of opinion that if any overt act of injustice were to be put in force against them they would rise as one man in defence of what they conceive to be their rights. It has been seen that when their fierce passions are aroused by warfare, they rapidly return to savage practices — and who can tell what might be the end of a contention, in which the whole people would be engaged ?—lt? — It is much to be feared that the goodly, but still fragile, fabric which the Missionaries have reared, by much patient labour and devotedneis, would crumble to the dust, and tho light which now beams upon this land and ils peoplefilling us with hope for the future— would be extiagnished in heathen darkness and in blood. We ascended a high wooded hill, which forms a very picturesque object on the side of tlio river opposite Mr. Ash well's neat cottage. From its summit we obtained a fine view of the winding river and the adjacent country, up and down ite course — the scene was something like that of the Ithiuc, viewed from the Dracuenfcls, but wanting the (owns, fields, and vineyards, which adorn that beautiful stream. We could alio see many small lakes, not far back, from the river's banks on cither side ; but the absence of cultivation and of woods givc3 this part of the country a dull and unpromising appearance. Lower down the •treara the banks are thickly wooded, and as palms and other graceful trees hang over the water, the scenery has a rich and even oricu^al aspect. We passed a night in a hut on the river aide — and the moonlight on the water, trees and iilands, added a charm to the natural beauty of the scene : though I must confess that certain reminuceoses of comfortable hotels and good cheer on the banks of the Rhine, or the luxuries of accommodation - boats on the Ganges, came over my mind in striking contrast with the rude and primitive style of living and travelling on the Waikato. The nearest point of the river to Auckland leave* a distance of about 40 miles to be travelled over land ; part of the way is through a forest, and the path being often trodden by natives, and with their pigs, on their way to the capital; is after rain the worst that can be

imagined — a continuous slough of deep mud, mixed with slippery roots of trees. We however made the best of H i ant!, by evening; of the day vre left the canoe, we hud inamerged from the foreit and encamped on the slope of the hills, with a fine prospect of extensive open plains and the broad estuary of the Manukau between us and Auckland, the peak of llmgitota Island, which marks the entrance of the harbour, being distinctly visible in the distance. At dawn we were aitir, being desirous of reaching town that clay. The weather was beautiful, and the country over which we travelled far more extensive, and better adapted for cultivation than I had previously any idea of, giving promise of abundant scope for settlers within a moderate distance of the teat of Government- Indeed, it is much to be regretted that 10 viiry few Europeang are located in that district. The available country is approachable also by creeks of the Manukau ; and lower down, an extensive arm of tlmt estuary runs inland within a few miles of the Waiknto, leaving only a mile and half of portage to a creek of that river ; by this means good* and passenger* arc conveyed with eaie from Auckland to the interior. On one occasion, when I visited the Mission statiorii under the care of the Rev. It. Mnunsell — where there is an excellent school for native boys — near the entrance of the Waikato, I reached the town, on my icturn, in less than 2V hours. On that occasion I was aided with a horse over the land part of the journey, ami have the pleasure to remember that the use of the animal, together with a guide, were freely offered to me by the native chief and Teacher, named I'uul, living in a village near the head of the Waiuku, and for which he would not take any return ; as lie did not know me, such a disinterested act of kindnesi said much for his liberality. 'Ihere is indeed a feeling of the greatest delight left on our minds at the remembrance of the kindness and hospitality we constantly met with on our journey from the Missionaries and from the few European settlms th.it we had opportunities of visiting) as well as from the native chiefs and people for whose welfare every one who has seen them in their own counlvy must feel a deep interest.