NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY THROUGH PART OF THE NORTHERN ISLAND OF NEW ZEALAND, IN 1849.

New Zealander, Volume 5, Issue 388, 2 January 1850, Page 3

NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY THROUGH PART OF THE NORTHERN ISLAND OF NEW ZEALAND, IN 1849.

(Continued from our latt.) From Boto Rut wo took our way to Like Tajawcra, « diitanco which i> e»iily got over in one

day. After walking for some hours through narrow rallies between hills covered * th long; coaise grisi and fern, we came to the ".bores of a very pretty lakp, called Okarekn, and embarked m a small cinoe by which we pas i-il up the lake, and shortened the distauce considerably. The shores of Okareka lake are very picturesque, and there is an island in the centre on which a natire village j| situated and a school- house is conspicuous. A short walk from the further end of this small lake brought us in sight of Tarawera, sur« rounded by high hilN, and a % the southern side a lofty mountain whose jagged summit and bare sides have more of sternness nnd grandeur than of beauty in their appearance. We walked along the right bank to the church Mission station, which is at a village on a peninsula projecting into the lake. This settlement has a very pleasing appearance as it is approached : on our arrival we met with a most kind reception from the Resident Missionary, the Rev. Mr. Spencer. The natives who had accompanied us so far, gave such a repoitof their success in exacting high pay, that when we wanted a canoe to pass up the lake next day, the demandi made were most exorbitant. Mr. Spencer hai been accustomed to live very independently of native assistance, and on this occasion he did not hesiiate a moment to take a paddle and jump into a canoe— »we followed his eximple, and with a solitary volunteer, an old chief, sped across the Uke, and soon obtained assistance at another village. Our object was to reach a very remarkable lake called Roto Mahann, or the Hot Lake ; by passing from Tare wera through a narrow srrait into Areki Lake ; and landing at its farther end, a short walk brings the traveller to the shore of the Roto Malwna. The scenery is gloomy ; but the objects of interest, for which the lake is celebrated, are wonderful and beautiful beyond description. Steam is seen issuing from numerous fissures in the hills— some terrible cauldrons and a geyser are continually heaving, spouting and roaring on the eastern side— but such may be seen in other countries. The real wonders of this lake are two boiling springs, one on either side* which have issued from the hills at a considerable elevation, and forme.l ponds or lakes of boiling water. The carbonate of lime deposited by the spring has formed a oust round these fairy-like fountains, which gives them the appearance of being enormous basins of the purest marble. The color which the water assumes in the basins is that of the deepest azure, most charming to gazrf upon, and as it flows over the edge of the basins and pours down into the lake, it deposit* its mineral substances held in solution in the form of ter« race", which lor k like gigantic flights of marl le steps to th • fountains fl>ove— on one side of the lake they are of vaiious hues, but on the other the deposit is coloured by ferruginous matter, which has given the terrace a pink or roseate appearance. Each step or terrace is about twenty feet broad, and by the falling of the water hillowed out into pools, whicn look like great shells lined vvnb peail. These pools form luxurious baths, the ternpeiature varying with the height of the terrace. We plunged into one of them about half way up to the fountain, and could scarcely bear to leave it again, so delightful is it to swim in e'ear warm water, in a bath which the most gorgeou-. monarch might envy. —We returned to the Mission station bi'fore dark, exceedingly pleased with our visit to Roto Mahana; and grateful for Mr. Spencer's guidance, without which we would most piobably not havese>n half its wonders; and like other travellers who were less fortunate, have left it with a far lower idea of the natural curiosities and beauties for which it is so justly celebrated. A traveller may pass several days pleasantly at Tarewera, making excursions to various pretty spots near— ameng-t others a water-fill or stream which issues from .. neighbouring lake and falls into Tarewera. The fall is hidden by fine trees, and the banks of the stream below it are viried and picturesque.— The native owner of land Hear the fall, who acted as ocr guide, lost my pencil, at which lie was greatly affli.'ted, unrt seriously offered me possession of the casade itself as well as the wood immediately about it, at payment for his neglect. On Sunday Mr. Spencer went to hold service in another village, and left his principal native Tet-cher to officiate at the station chapel. He conducted the gerviceanJ preiched a short sermon with considerable floquence, his voice was deep and well tuned, aud the responses of h.s hearers were made in solemn unison. In the evening I had some conversation wild the Teacher aud other natives as they 6at on the ground near tlie church about the conduct oi his countryocen in holding out for such exorbitant payments, and I expressed our determination to send most of our effects back to the coast and to carry the rest on our own backs rather than submit to such imposition ; his wife * fine looking woman, accustomed to European habits from having lived in Mr. Spencer's housp, was exceed - ingly indignant at our being detained after offering a fair payment of 2s. per diem to each mm and perhaps to her were chiefly indebted for being able to get a party on the fol owing morning. Our first day's journey from Ta.e« era was a very Ehoit one only to Roto Kakahi, another lake about six miles off. The Natives live on an island in that lake, und were very civil to us ; they had abundance of muscles and a delicious tiny fish called Inan^a, of whit h they gave us a supply. The leading men spent the evening near us talking about the reported murder of a Euiopean who lived not /ar off, thiy spoke with disgust of the horrid deed and expressed their detennnUion to hold a committee of chief* for the purpose of considering the best means of bringing the supposed murderers to justice. To us who were entering upon a wild part of the country, beyond the u-ual visits of the Missionaries, this news was not cheering, mora particularly as a young chief came into our hut alone and after closing the door told us in a low voice to be on our guard for his coun'rymen in the " Taupo" countiy were not to be trusted, and it would be a source of grief to all right minded natives to hear alterwards that we had been either robbed or murdered. Thougli we were nit iuc'ined to deipise his caution yet his fears did not disturb our re»t for we felt assuieJ that if any real danger of violence from the Natives was to be apprehended the good Missionaries whom we had visited would not have failed to warn us of it. According to our custom we were on our way for " Taupo" soon after day break. The country we parsed over was generally hilly though our path led us through several extensive and fertile valleys, totally desti u'e of inhabitant* ; vapour was seen rising from hills and streams, one river which we crossed was quite hot and our natives seemed to delight in eVc-ry" oppoitunity of enjoying a warm bath. At sunset we c iterad an extens ye valley bounded on one side by a range of. steep hiUs, burning in many places. The native* chose the immediate vicinity of ■omc boilmc; mud holes as the best place for encamping; we yielded unwi.liugly to their anxiety for a. warm Dirih, though the ground on which our tent wa« pitched seemed to be a mere crust of.'earth over un ineandesceut substratum* Before we had finished supper it became to hot that we could not kit upon it and made^a hasty retreat to another position. The natives, however, took up our vacated ground, and next morning declared they had passied a pleasant night, sleeping comfortably without shelter, though on teira

firma ; there wni a iharp frost. Soon after leaving (hit valley we came upon the great River Waikato rushing on} its course from Taupo to the lea. We crossed it in a imall canoe which wai found on the bank and walked by the river lide until we came to a fine rapid where we lighted our fire and enjoyed breakfait amidst wild but beautiful scenery ; and then left the ritec for a time to pursue a near course towards the great Lake from which it isiues. Hills valleys, and forest seen everywhere, but no tracei of inhabitants or cultivation. At length we came to a wretched hut or two by a hotTspring, where we found only a few women, the men being away on some expedition, but the sight of their cheerful and friendly faces was pleasing for we had b<-en nearly three days without mi etui* any human being. Whilst at that place a singular case of nervous affection or disease showed itself. When approaching the hut* one of our natives told me not to whistle, as one of the women was ill, but with my impTfect knowledge of the language I did not I suppose clearly understand his meaning, nor did 1 think of mentioning it to my companion, who inadvertently began to whistle an air as he sat on a stone making his toilette. Instantly one of the poor women fell down in teirible convulsions, bleeding profusely at the nose, and had to be cairied off to a retired hut, as they said she would not recover for some hours. We were excessively grieved at the circumstance, and the man who warned me did not spare his reproaches, but the other women tried to remove our concern and the present of a little tobacco s-nt to the sufferer seemed to be satisfactory to all parties. After this we reached Hapua, a small village, in a wood, where we spent the night. The inhabitants were absent, but we did not hesitate to take possession of a hut for sleeping accommodation. After leaving '* Hapua " we passed some good land in a valley, the soil of which is much mixed with pumice and other volcanic debris,and made for a cleariig that we saw on a forest covered range of hills. An old man and woman who saw us coming, shouted out direction Jto the path Ithrou^h the wood, and at the same time, according to the iuu.il custom began to prepare food for the travellers whom they had descried at h distance. We ascertained that the old man had a store of blankets, which he kept for sale, acting as a country agent to Pctuoni, the biother of Walker, who resides near Auckland, and making his returns in pigs which are sent to the capital, [To be continued.]