NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY THROUGH PART OP THE NORTHERN ISLAND OF NEW ZEALAND, IN 1849. [Continued from our last.]

New Zealander, Volume 5, Issue 387, 29 December 1849, Page 2

NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY THROUGH PART OP THE NORTHERN ISLAND OF NEW ZEALAND, IN 1849. [Continued from our last.]

We were kindly received and most hospitably entertained at Tauranga, by the Archdeacon, the Rev. P. C. Davies, and their families ; but we found more difficulty than wo anticipated in procuring natives to carry our baggage and proyiiions. The demands made were so exorbitant, that Mr. Brown was so kind as to send hit own men with us to the next station, rather than suffer us to submit to inopositijn. I would itrongly recommend intending tourists in New Zealand to provide themselves with natives at Auckland, and to hire them for the whole journey, by which means they will be spared much trouble and delay, as well as expense, for the inhabitant of native villages, if willing to go at all, do not like forming haity engagements, and while the European traveller is fretting with impatience to move on, they lie wrapped in their blankets, and make their demands and stipulations with perfect calmness and most provoking' deliberation, neither are they slow at taking advantage of the traveller's impatience or perplexity, and raise their price proportionally. Rut once fairly on th& road, they are admirable guides and companions, (I cannot say servants) for they have no notion of such a thing. They consider themselves friends of the Pakeha who is taken under their protection and whose effects consequently they are willing to carry for a time, but in every way they are as independent as American citizem, and take care to shew their feeling! by the remarks they make on terms of the most perfect equality. Indeed the New Zealandera are complete republicans, even the.'highest chiefs have little direct authority, although they have considerable influence, especially wheie they wish to induce their tribes to do mischief. The slaves (captives or descendants of captives in war) are kept in subjection, but many of them have lately been liberated by Christian Chiefs. I was told by a Missionary that Te Wero Wero the great chief of the Waikato may bo iecn litting by the side of the lowojt slate »t d*™

or school, and answering questions from the catecbiun with much humility. From Tauranga we walked along the sea beach to Maketu, sixteen miles to the southward, and on arriving their in the evening were most kindly welcomed and entertained by the re«ident miMionary the Rev. Mr. Chapman. Maketu hasa small river accesiible to coasting craft. The villnge ii on an eminence at the entrance, and is strongly fortified by palisades to resist musketry or assault by storm. Ciicumstances led the Government in 1843, to form plans for the attack of this pah or stronghold, and the officer of Royal Engineers who examined the place, was much astonished at the ad* roirnble skill the natives had shewn in choosing their position and making the defences. A chief of the place with some of his people had made an inroad upon the cultivations of their enemies the natives of Tauranga and were driven off and dispersed by the latter ; a young lad related to the chief of Maketu being killed or drowned in the affray. Some day 3 after Tongaroa the chief who had been hiding in the woods made his way to the beach where he saw a small craft taking in wood and water, and solicited most earnestly to be taken on board. The European! kindly consented and whilst procuring their supplies on shore had the mortification of seeing their little vesiel moving off under charge of Tongaroa, who had quietly slipped the cable. The ungrateful savage made his way to Maketu, where he was joined by another chief and a party of the tribe armed and prepared to revenge the death of their young relation. For this purpose they crossed to an island near the coast inhabited by natives of the same tribe ai their enemies of Tauranga. By keeping the greater number under cover, and those on deck dressing themselves like .Europeans, they succeeded in inducing the natives of the island to come alongside in a canoe, when a deadly volley was fiicd upon them by tliote on board he schooner. Several were killed and the dead bodies feasted upon on their return to Maketu. No efforts of the Missionary could effect the prevention of the Canibalism, and the preience of the troops at Tauranga atone induced them to give up the stolen vessel. I saw and conversed with both of the chiefs engaged in this affair. They have been very well behaved since, but are little to be trusted, The country round Maketu is level, and the soil apparently fertile to the foot of the hills, which look as if they had once been on the sea shore, the flat lands of Maketu resembling a great bay elevated by volcanic agency. In days to come the«e fertile lands may be coveredwith cultivation, and pleasant hamlets, nor is it too great a stretch to imagine that instead of the present dirty native pah, a bustling town may be built at the entrance of the river. We encamped for the night on the sloping lands approaching the hills, several travelling natives joined our party, and, after prayers, continued talking as they Jay by the great log fire until late in the night. We made a comfortable bed of fern in the tent, on which we spread our blankets and slept most comfortably until the dawn, when I roused tlie party and had a fire lighted to make coffee. The morning was cold but dry and clear, the most agreeable weather for travelling in. Ai we ascended the bill* we obtained pleasing views of the lands we had passed through and fbe sea with its several islands near the coast, the most remarkable of which is White Island, a volcanoe, from which vapour is continually ascending. We halted for breakfast by the side of a stream where we made our toilet and highly enjoyed the food for which cool air and exercise had given us an excellent appetite. After reaching the summit of a range of hills we desoended Chrough a forest to the vallies on the inland side, and in the evening reached the bank of the first lake called Roto Iti, and embarked in a canoe which our natives piddle J with great swiftness across the moonlit water to our intended halting place on the farther side. The arm of the lake where we embarked looked very much like that of Loch Katrine in Scotland when it is first seen in issuing from the Trosach's Glen. Whilst parsing throußli dense forest I founcL ■»<»«»• vo»y fia« «p«eitnens of ferns, and my companion shot some large and fat wild pigeons, which are excellent eating, and as there are plenty of wild ducks on the lakes, and large prawns at the bottom, we had a pleasant prospect of good fare on our route. Near the Roto Iti we came upon the encampment of an excellent old chief with his sons and followers. 7 had been of some service to them once at Auckland, they seemed much pleased to see me, and were ready to serve us in any way in their power. I had often occasion to be surprised at finding niyielf recognised by natives who had visited the capital, and of whom I had no recollection. The shores and bays of Roto Iti are steeped and 'well wooded. We passed the Sunday in a neat cottage built by the natives for an invalid European who hgd most kindly written to them to give it up for our use. This cottage was built by the side of a stream of hot water, which issued from the rocks, and being dammed up formed a delightful bathing place ; we indulged very freely in the luxury which this afforded, and found ourselves all the better for the indulgence, though the effect of these baths is temporarily weakening. From Roto Iti to Roto Rua, the second Lake, the distance is only a few miles, which we got over before breakfast. The intervening country is mostly composed of volcanic ashes and other debris, having a sterile and gloomy appearance. Midway there is a valley called Tiki Tera, where several horrible black boiling springs rise from the white-looking treacherous ground about them.' Great care must be taken in approaching these awful cauldrons over the crest of earth Which separates them from the surrounding country. The water is said be highly medicinal. The first view of Roto Rua is pleasing : a high island in the centre formJag a picturesque object, but this lake is not otherwise very interesting in point of scenery. We passed a day or two at Ihe Mission station— which is occupied the greater part of the year by Mr. Chapman, who first formed it amidst war and difficulties of no ordinary kind. His orchard is extensive, and produces in the season abundance of fruit. Whilst we were there, the peach trees were in blosson, though the ground was every morning covered with hoar frost and ice. The remarkable object on the Rota Rua is the native /.Tillage of Ohinimutu, opposite Mr. Chapman's station ; %c reached it by walking round the shore, for the wind •>, was so high as to make it dangerous to cross the lake ;.in a canoe. This singular habitation is generally ' shrouded by vapour, and to our great surprise we found that the ground on which the village is built - was perforated everywhere with boiling-water holes ; in the narrow lanes r etween the houses we required to walk with care to avoid stepping into them. The crust of earth sounds hollow, and seems like ice after thaw, ready to give way under the feet of the passenger : indeed, some black posts are to be seen projecting above the water in the lake which once formed a part of the stockade of the village : yet this dangerous volcanic ground, which people in other countries avoid, is chosen by tbe natives for the comfort and convenience which the boiling water affords them. Almost every hut has its natural boiling cauldron, in' which the food is cooked, and there are several larger springs which are common to the inhabitants, and teem to be the resort of the gossips of both sexes ; from these springs tbe boiling water is led off to small tanjci lined and paved with volcanic stone, in which j

men, momen, and children «re seea at all hours enjoying the luxury of the warm bath. In a ralley on the land side of Ohinimutu there are Several ponds of hot water, and numerous iteaming holes and geysers. Oa our arrival, we enquired as usual, for the native teacher, and found Zachariah— for so lie is named—a most courteous and well-bred gentleman ; he gave us a house to sleep in, and potatoes to eat — but, far from looking for recompense, be actually kept out of the way when we were leaving the village ; so that we supposed he was absent, but we soon perceived him in the rear kicking some dogs, and cuffing some children that were inclined to annoy us. He condescended to smoke one of our cigars, and we made a tr-fling present to his mother and another old lady, who had swept and prepared our lodging. Whilst at this wonderful place, I paid a visit to the Roman Catholic Misiionary, who with liis companion, a kind of lay brother and attendant, were the only Europeans in the neighbourhood. The Roman Catholic Mission in New Zealand is, I believe, chiefly maintained by the Propaganda of Lyons : the clergy are nearly all French meni and are most zealous, self, denying, and laborious.— They have each an extensive district, over which they travel on foot, and generally live on such coarse fare as the natives can give them ; even at their stations, though the chapels are well fitted up, the dwelling of the missionary is meanly furnished, and their style of living is like their emoluments— exceedingly moderate. Truly, the mind which can bear to be secluded in the interior of a land like this, unchecred by any domestic ties or social intercourse, must be well trained and supported by thoughts and views which have little of this world for their object. ' [To be continued.]

STRA.WS PROM THE GOLD COAST— No. 5. American feelings — Hon. T. B. King — Interest in California—' 1 A ChieVs amang us talcing notes 1 ' — Visits the Gold region — Success of the diggers — Ditto ofthenon diggers— Speculators—How steam affects business — Town's talk —Diagrams— Substi~ iute for drawing paper— Competition of new cities — Extent of the demand— Not all scabby sheepNoble immigration— Self- government illustrated— Hope for California. California, August, 1849. Friend Polynesian :— This preient place of wiit» ing ii not a town—but the embodiment of all towns— the territory in the aggregate. I love, sometimes, to feel myself a cosmopolite ; and travelling hither and yon as I do, indentily myself with the total area oi the ground paired over. Every American feels that the territory in general is 7iis property. He takes an interest in it all— especi~ ally the Gold District. Even «tatesmen have come to see the new lawn our great uncle has added to his domain. We have now among us, Hon. T. B. King, of Georgia) a gentleman who hai done good service to thh part of the|world,^as chairman of the Congi esiional committee which authorized the Pacific line of mail steamen. He takes a lively interest in the prosperity of the country, and says he intends, ultimately to make it his home- Report makes him a sort of eye and ear of the President— a confidential agent to look into the wants and condition and capacities of the country— and thereupon a true account render-— a thing which he will no doubt do— for he is evidently a discriminating and honest obierver— a man of real talent, and unwearied in his quest of information. The last six weeks, with Gen. P. F. Smith, and suit, he hat been making the tour of the mines, from Feather river to the Mariposa, in the face of a roasting sun and of legions of misquitoes. The mines equal his anticipations. He l>oks upon them as, in a measure inexhaustible — and of highest importance. Guided by his information and observations, Congress may, perhap*, be able to answer the knotty question, " What shall bo <lona with the gold region— and how can the working of it be regulated ?" But, whatever may be done, Mr. King's presence, here, at this time, and hit poiition at Washington, will be of the highest Bervica to this territory. Would that nil Uncle Sam's officials, — whether gent " by authority" or not, — were as affible, in their manners, and as well fitted to win universal reipect and affection, as Hon. T. Butler King, of Frederics, Georgia. The miners, I hear on all hands, are doing well — kid-gloved clerks, et id omne genus, excepted. By " well," I mean, averaging from one to four or five ounces per day. This, of course, is for working men alone. Hard hands and strong sinews get amply paid for what they do. The proverb says, " the man that won't work, must'nt eat." It is certain that men that won't work, won't get much gold— and that those that can't work are very foolish to think of going into the mountains to dig for it. Speculators make money | with various degrees of rapidity, depending, partly on their "smartness" and partly on the gullability of the people ; and yet-, in another part, on the mutations in the value of property produced by the gold flowing in from one direction and the torrent of immigrants fiom the other. The arrival of every steamer produces a sensible change in every pulse of the market. Some capitalists will be on board, eager to make investments—and plenty of property holders, on shore, are shrewd enough to be aware of the fact, and adjuit their sliding scale of prices accordingly. Town lots are all tbe talk from one month to another. You can scarcely walk a hundred steps in the streets without noticing diagrams of lots, and subdivisions of lots, where some speculating Yankees have stood, driving a bargain, und drawn the figures to illustrate to each other the advantages of tbe property, and how an immense fortune might be made out of it by managing it so and so. Every office is apparently a land office — hung about with enormous plans and maps of new towns and cities— each of which claims to h*ve every possible advantage over the others— and the owners of each of which confidently expect to be the John Jacob Astor's, while they are more than half willing to believe that each of their competitor! will be ruined beyond redemption. But, fortunately for all there is a broad specie basis for most of these speculations, and prospect of immigration enough to make a market for all new towns and cities, even were they two fold more numerous than they are. " There is an aspect of good in thiDgs evil." — All who come to this country are not " hounds"— nor New York " b'hoys'' — nor blacklegs— nor gallows birds. Thanks to the good Providence that guides the destinies of nations, there is a strong spice of sterling worth in the masses that are moving hither. Lf.rge bodies of them are picked men from the heart of New England— men with strong hands to execute— strong minds to plan— fine feelings and fine principles to guide, and full, manly hearts to give warmth and tone to their influence. The country is filling up with such. As a whole, they bring with them love of order, temperance, industry, and religun.—'Were it not so— in such a state of anarchy, and with so many exciting causes as the country presents— there would be unspeakably less of justice and good order than now exist. Like a war horae so trained to service that, after his rider has been shot from his back, he still keeps in the ranks— intelligent Americans (to their honour be it said) are accustomed to self government,

that leave them ungoverned and everything in the main goes on as before. Government has become a tort of instinct. Some of these eastern men doubtlesi will prove recreant fo the great principles they profess, and disgrace themielvns and the land of their birth. But staunch men and true, it is hoped, will be found in sufficient numberi to affix on California the impress of institutions and principles which, in their eastern developement, have so long been the admiration of the wiie and good of all lands. With the elements just coming together here — a State must rapidly rise, whose power and importance will soon be felt and experienced all over this hemisphere. 1 Panorama.