NOTES FROM A JOURNAL

New Zealander, Volume 3, Issue 150, 6 November 1847, Page 3

NOTES FROM A JOURNAL

Kept during an excursion to the Boiling Springs of Rotorua and Rotoviahana, by way of the Wuikato and Waipa countries, in the Summer of Eighteen Hundred and Forty-sin and Seven. (Continued.)

Dec. 30.— The track from Kunawaniwa to Pulienui, on the Waipa, haveises the flat for three miles over grass)- land, seldom interrupted by swamp, and then ascends the hills that divide the valley from the bed of the Waipa, the soil of which appeared to be a rich loam, and we passed a field of line wheat belonging to the Natives, vr hich formed the summit. A farther walk of three miles among the hills, which were universally covered with tall fern, varied in (ho hollows between them, by occasional patches oC wood, we reached the base of Pirongia, whose spurs radiated in every direction, thickly clothed with wood. A beautiful clear mountain-stream, forcing its way through masses of basalt, and greenstone boulders, and embowered in wood, rushed downwards from a ravine, formed by two of the spurs, and after crossing it, we found the •oil still finer than that we had just passed, arising* probably, from the decomposition of the basaltic and green-stone formations of Perongia. Ascending a steep ridge, along whose crest we walked for some time, we reached the settlement of Puhenui, situated on a knoll, immediately overhanging the Waipa, which here, about fifty yards wide, ran in a very deep bed, its bank* still maintaining their terraced character. The peaked summits of Pirongia rising two thousand feet above the level of the country, almost, overhung Puhenui, and on such of the adjacent slopes as admitted of cultivation, the Natives were busily engaged in burning off the fine timber, to prepare for their autumnal crop. It was quite painful to witness the destruction that was going on, as the mountain was almost obscured by the smoke of the numerous fires. Puhenuhi is a miserable place, but the view from it embraces the rolling country between it and Maungatautari, and (he more level tracts which extend Northward towards Taupiri, and Southward to the base of the distant Rangitoto mountains, and the isolated cone of Kokapuka, shooting up from the plain, vis a vis to Perongia. This vast area appeared one brown waste, whose surface, unvaried by the bright green of the swamps, which, in more level districts, give, at an)' rate, an appearance of verdure, bad a tepulsive aspect, nor was it much improved by the sombre green of the clumps of Kahikatea, which were thinly sprinkled over it. A volume of smoke marked the site of Otawao, and Rangiawbia, to the former of which places we proceeded, by crossing the river, which ran in a deep* canal-like bed, the banks being nearly fifty feet high, and the stream itself fifty yards wide. The Waipa has its source in the Rangitoto Mountains, which, striking Eastward from the tea range, terminate on the bunks of the Upper Waikato, and form the buse of the great triagular space of country lying between the Waipa and the Waikato, whose apex is at Ngaruawaha, and which is inhabited by not more than three thousand Natives, who, with the exception of the tiibes living atOtawao, Rangiawhia, and Oraki, and some settlements on the slopes of Kokapuka, and Maungatautari, are located on the banks of either river. Opposite Kokapuka lies the Wesleyan Mibsionary station of Onepaka, from whence a path leads to Wangaroa on the West coast, in a day and a half. The last Native settlement on the liver is Rangitoto, situated in a beautiful gorge of the mountains, to which there is access by canoes, in the winter, but in the summer, a trap djke which ciosses the river at the settlement of Maungapotni, forms rapids which it is dangerous to pass. The Waipa country is noted for its fine fernroot, which is generally found in rich alluvial soil, on the banks of rivers, or in deep valle>s : some of the choicest spots are lamtecl 10 ensure a supply, and fierce quarrels have happened between different tribes, from these spots haviug been bet on fire. Much pains is taken in s>eluotmg it, the roots are dug up in August ami, September, and thoaeouly takyn wmcuatc eigh(eeu

inches below the ground. The small fibres are stript off and they are then roasted at a fire, and become very palatable, uotunhke, in taste, to the Cassava bread used by the Negroes in the West Indies. It is considered a delicacy by the Natives who reside on the sea-eoest, when, after being dried and packed in baskets of koiadi, and neatly covered with the blossoms of the toi toi — it is often sent as a present from the inlaud Chiefs to their friends near the sea, who in return send dried shell fish, an acceptable food to the Natives of the interior. From the failure of the potatoc-crop, the Natives look forward to it as a succedaneum for that root iv the ensuing spring, as it is more nutritious than is generally supposed. The route to Otaivao, passes for some miles over undulating clay hills, covered with tall fern, among which the stumps of burnt trees and enormous logs, lying about in every direction, attest that they were once covered with wood, destroyed either in Native cultivation, or by au extension of the fires lighted to carry it on. We now reached the Mauugapiko, a pretty stream running over a pebbly bed, shallow in the summer, but deep and rapid in the winter. It hits its source in the gorges of Maungatautari, and after winding for many miles through the intervening country, empties itself Into the Waipa We turned aside to visit a deserted pa, hounded on three sides by a sharp bend of the river, whose steep batiks, strengthened by a rampart, Formed an impas sable obstacle, while two mounds and deep broad ditches, stretching across to the river, occupied and defended the fourth side, which had an advanced enclosure, answering to the modern hornwork, as a farther impediment to au attacking enemy, and it was rendered still stronger by commanding the neighboring couutry. Large pits occupied its area, eitberfor shelter by being covered with a roof of mupo, or they served as storehouses for provisions- No European Engineer could have laid out the place more advantageously, and by the remains of some stumps, it would seem to have had the additional defence of a pallisade— in fact it must have been impregnable. The Natives indeed, seem to have an instinctive talent for seizing upon ground favorable for the erection of such strong-holds, and a skill in arranging the defences that shows they possess the powers of combination to an extraordinary degree. Here I remarked pumJceous gravel in the banks of the river, and a change for the worse in the surface soil, evinced by the presence of dwarf manuka and fern, which continued for some distance beyond the pa, But as we approached Otawao, the soil improved in quality, and there was a good deal of uatural grass in various places. We had to traverse very few swamps, and those of trifliug extent, but I saw no flax. A similar country stretched away on either hand, as far as the eye could reach, which would lorm line pasture-ground for cattle, who would annually improve it for that purpose. The night had set in before we reached Otawao, but lighted by a fine moon, and guided by the sounds of cattle and voices, we reached that settlement, after again crowing the Mauiigapiko, and were received with that genuine and unostentatious hospitality, by Mr. Morgan, the resident Missionary, which all respectable travellers experience under that gentleman's roof. Dec. 31.— The settlement of Otawao is situated on the western side of a large level basin, surrounded on all s.ides by low bare hills, once however covered with wood, some of which of large size, iv stiaggling clumps, is still standing about the place. The Missionary house, a commodious wooden mansion, with suitable offices, stands a little iv advance of the Native pa, on a plateau surrounded by a bend of the Maungapiko, which forms on three sides a natural enclosure. A garden well-stocked with English fruittrees, is attached to the house, but the season was not sufficiently advanced to ripen the larger fruits, however the gooseberry bushes were loaded with fruit, and I and my fellow-traveller, for I had picked up a new companon de voyage, in a relative, who I found by chance at Kauuwauiwa, enjoyed this truly English fruit, which we had not tasted for many years, and brought back all our early reminiscences of the gardens of the " Father land." Grapes, figs, and melons, which are so successfully raised at Auckland, do not however grow well here, as Otawao must lie several hundred leet above the level of the sea, consequently the spring is later than on the coast, and lower districts, and although the mid-day temperature may be equally high, yet the nights, which in every part of New Zealand, are comparatively colder than the days, and forms a peculiar feature in the climate, here suffer a decrease of temperature, which is hostile to the maturation of the fruits of Southern Europe. A large Native Chapel has been built near the house, in which morning and even.ug prayers are read to the Native converts. Mr Morgan has some fine sheep and cattle, which find abundant feed on the de&erted Native cultivations, which always contain a quantity of grass, and he himself has some well-cultivated fields »f grass and grain, I strolled about the native pa and cultivations before breakfast, and saw some wheat, but as usual mixed •with weeds. I remarked, however, the care the Nas tives took, to occupy sheltered spots, and where that could not be attained, that they had planted rows of tehori, a variety of Phormium Tenax, or Native flax, ■which growing to the height of five feet, knd being planted closely, formed a perfect screen from the wind which sweeps with great violence over this open country, and of which 1 had experience, as it was at ihe time blowing a furious gale from the South-west. I have before remarked that flax does not appear to be indigenous to the Waipa country, consequently the Natives plant it for the double purpose of a screen, and for economical uses, and have therefore chosen the finest variety for the latter employment. The To hori is known by the names of mountain, or silkey flax, the former, from its being found in high districts, the latter from the fine texture of its fibre, which when carefully cleaned and prepared, very much resemoles silk, and it was formerly much em ployed in making the "katuka" mats, the manufacture of which, however, has almost fallen into disuse, since the introduction of Euglish blankets. There is no doubt, however, that if a machine could he invented to supersede the tedious method which the Natives alone employ of scraping off the epidermis by means of a mussel-shell, it would be a profitable in* vestment of capital to cultivate it, as its cultivation would in no way interfere with agricultural pursuits, but might easily be combined with them, and the Tehori, fiom its fine texture, and the eabe with which ! the epidermis is removed, would seem to be the variety best suited for artificial cultivation, and if sent in good condition to England, would no doubt realize from £35 to £40 per ton, to the exporter. The Ngatururu, the Ngatikora, and the Patukokd tribes of the Waikato confederacy, in all about three hundred bouls, iuhabit Otawao. After breakfast we proceeded across the plain of Otawao, to Raugeawuea, by a good horse-road made by the Natives, under the auspices of Mr. M"rgan,~ this place lies about five miles lo the Eastward, aim is situated on a coutiuuaiion of the hill* wh'un envi

Ron Otawao. The pa, surrounded by a slight stockade, is of some extent, and is inhabited Dy the Ngatihinutu and the Ngatiapakura, eight hundred in uuinber, the greater part of whom are converts to the Church Missionary Society, another portion adhere to a French Catholic Priest who resides there, and a few are still Pagans. They are rather noted for their immorality and thievish habits, of which their Chiefs seem to be aware, as at a korero which they held on the subject ot the proposed road through the interior, they expressed a wisli that the Governor should call a general meeting of the Waikato Chiefs, and explain to them what were his intentious in making it. They said — "When il is niade, many travellers will come into the country who will be careless of their property, the Natives will not be able to resist pilferiug, complaints will be made, and the police will come to seize and carry off the offenders, our people will not see their relations and friends taken away, and Woodshed will be the consequnce— then the Governor by meaus of the road will send troops and caunou, destroy our pas. make slaves of us, and seize upon our lands I" Te Waru, the principal Chief, however, differed from the rest in the latter particular. — "It is not the Governor, with his soldiers and cannon," said he, " that we need fear, but it is the thievish habits of our people, who will commit crimes for which they will be seized by the police I" I believe thett is a mingled feeling of fear, jealousy, and of theirown weakness, in their opposition to the formation of the road, which however will be lulled by our just and fair dealing with them, and will at length give way to tlie sense ot the benefits they will derive from such an undertaking, and then they will be as eager to assist in making it as they are now vehement in opposing it. There is a large ware puni in the pa, whose facade is prettily ornamented with carvings. These buildings are used as Council and general sleeping places for the unmarried men of the pa, and j having only a low door, are, wheu a fire is lighted within, insufferably close and stifling, and throw the inmates into a profuse perspiration, in which state they go out into the night air and is certaiuly one cause of their frequent pulmonary complaints. The hill on which the pa was situated, as well as those adjacent, must at one time have been covered with timber, but of which only a few clumps remain, and that is fast disappearing, so that the Natives will ere long be compelled to abandon it from waul of fuel. Indeed they seem to have abandoned iheir cultivation grounds very often in this vicinity, from the same reason, as numerous patches of grass, visible amidst the fern covered hills around, attest the site of former plantations. The soil of these hills is a fertile clay, and there were probably about fifty acres under cultivation, and a good deal of wheat near the pa, but it looked sickly, perhaps owing to the unusual diyness of the season, however I remarked one en closure with a most luxuriant crop, and upon enquiry found it belonged to an Englishman named Smith, and upon proceeding to his house he at once enlightened me as to the superior appearauce of his wheat, by informing me that he kept some cattle, and had carefully dug and manured his land, while the Natives were merely indebted to Nature for any returns they might have for their labour. They seem indeed very anxious to grow wheat, feeling that it is a much more certaiii and valuable crop than potatoes, but it is to be feared that they will nevei give it that attention or bestow that labour upon it that its successful cultivation requires. Although they are partial to horses they do not seem to care about cattle, and they have almost a superstitious abhorrence to the use of manure, so that it is only by continually changing their ground that they have any chance of good crops. Indeed it is said that they have abandoned the cultivation of maize in favour of wheat, more for the depredations the rats committed on the former grain, than from any partiality to the latter, as the reaping winnowing, and grinding, necessary to make wheat available as one article of food, taxes their indolence to a degree they unwillingly submit to, and would if possible avoid. However they seem to be in earnest here, as they have subscribed j£lf>o to build a mill, at the earnest representations of Mr. Morgan, who pointed out its auvantages. The mill is situated about half a mile from the pa, and was then nearly completed by an European millwright, from wood found in the neighborhood. The stones being formed masses of lava, taken from the base of Mount Edeti, near Auckland. The Natives lent their labor to cutting, bringing in, and sawing the timber required for its construction, and also formed the dam by blocking up a small stream leading from a neighboring swamp. It is therefore to be hoped that after their expenditure and exertions, they will not, with their usual indifference, abandon it, as they have done a similar undertaking at Otea, where, in consequence of having neglected to stop the mill, they suffered the stones to become useless, and have not laeu the trouble, nor will they advance the means of having them replaced. (To be continued.)