IN THE GARDEN
DRY SPELL BROKEN THE VEGETABLE PLOTS The rain during the past week was very welcome as gardens were beginning lo show the effects of the continued dry spell. With the soil now in good condition for planting no time should be lost in getting in late crops. licet root may be planted even lor fowl-feed during the winter or else the space may be sown down for green manure. Beans, both dwarf and climbing, may be planted at intervals. YVhile every effort should be made to keep up a succession of useful summer and autumn crops, the sowing and planting of varieties for late autumn and winter supplies must in no case be neglected. Ground from which potatoes or other spent crops have been taken, if deeply dug and broken up fine, should be in excellent condition' for sowing carrots, parsnips, garden swedes silver beet, seorenerza, salsify, and other root crops. These are essentially late autumn and winter vegetables, and succeed well in such soil if deeply worked and have fresh manure applied before sown. Spray tomatoes for both fungoid and caterpillars, and add a little arsenof lead to the Bordeaux mixture. Keep the soil between all growing crops frequently and well worked. Nothing is of greater assistance to the growth of vegetables than keeping the soil in fine tilth. Although little can be done in the way of sowing or planting while the soil is in its present condition, .every effort should be made to place the ground in as fine tilth as possible ,so that the sowing of crops for autumn and winter use can be proceeded with as soon as the soil is thoroughly moistened. Onions and shallots should be lifted as soon as the tops shrivel and become dry near the bulbs. Let them lie upon the ground, with the roots upward for a few days, until the bulbs are well dried and matured, when they should be stored. Asparagus beds should be weeded and the growth supported. A dressing of nitrate of soda at the rate of one half an ounce to the square yard of bed may. be given. . Keep a close watch upon cucumbers, marrows, melons, etc., and upon the least signs of aphis spray with black leaf or other insecticide. Beans, both dwarf and runner, can be sown. The present sowing will give a good autumn crop. Sow and plant leeks; give some fertiliser if they are to remain where they are sown. Silver-beet may be sown at any time with good results. Savoy cabbage and broccoli may still be planted; the planting of green kale and early cauliflower may also be made. Lettuce should be planted out as soon as large enough' and space is available. More seed should be sown for later plantings; usually one bed will supply two plantings at an interval of ten or fourteen days, after which the plants are usually too large.
As soon as the soil is thoroughly liioisIcncd, sowings should bo made of carrots, turnips, garden swedes, rooted beet, spinach, lettuce, cabbage, cauli--1 lower. I 1 or root crops, as frequently stated, the soil requires to be deeply worked, and well broken up, so that'the roots can penetrate well into the soil unchecked. It is by this means that long- dean roots are secured. ’MIDST THE FLOWERS In a list of best daffodils and tulips published by the “Guild Gardener,’’ the opinions of Messrs R. H. Bath, Ltd., R. Sydenham, Ltd., Bees, Ltd., H. E. Moxon, and Sutton and Sons are given, It is interesting to note that these wellknown firms totally disagree as to the best tulips, and not a single tulip gains tile suffrages of tlm five traders. In daffodils, only one variety gets the suffrages of all of them. That is the variety Emperor, and every one of them places it either first or second.
Camellias are most conspicuous when the hushes are in vigorous condition and laden with a profusion of large, showy blossoms, as ao present. The semi-doub-led hollyhock flowered varieties are well worth growing. Camellia bushes require annual attention just as the new growth is starting, to judiciously thin out some of tlie branches. They are subject to attacks of scale insects. When the leaves present a black sooty appearance, this invariably denotes the presence of scale. When in this condition, liberally prune and thoroughly syringe with kerosene emulsion or red oil immediately after the flowering season. Spent and dead blooms should be removed at once; to allow them to remain and mature seed is to spoil the appearance of the plants and to reduce their vitality. Pansies should be top-dressed with some rotten cow manure, and if the seed pods are removed and the long spent growths cut back, the young shoots that spring up from the base will give some good autumn flowers. Seedlings of mignonette, escholtzias, dwarf nasturtiums, sweet sultans, balsams, larkspurs, etc., from seeds sown in the open beds and borders should be well thinned, utilising some of the thinnings to transplant. The staking of dahlias and chrysanthemums must receive attention or the plants will suffer should heavy winds occur. Sowings of hardy perennials and herbaceous plants made now will produce good plants for putting out in autumn. Provide for winter flowers by sowing varieties of mignonette, calendulas, inyosotis, or forget-me-nots, while spiral candytufts, linarias, etc., and prepare ground for winter flowering sweet peas. Anemones and ranunculi are largely grown in almost every garden; they are easily cultivated and arc the best of early-dowering bulbous plants. Beds that have been planted in early-flowering annuals that arc about over, should be deeply dug, turning the annuals under. Do not apply any fresh manure; a little basic slag, which contains a fair proportion of lime, limy be dug under with advantage. Digging tlie ground now enables it to lie fallow and sweeten in readiness for planting bulbs in March. Aquilegias, Canterbury bells, sweet Williams, are amongst lho things that can be sown now Tulips may be lifted every year, but it is not necessary. They may be left undisturbed for three years providing tlie soil is not too wet. If it is it is a good plan to lift them every year. If they are lifted the increase will be quickened considerably, especially if ilio small bulbs are planted in a separate bed. I !ie tulips do not mind being out of the bed for some time. Three months does not affect them. They sometimes come on very quickly after they have been out of Ihe ground for that length of time.
Permanent link to this item
https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/NEM19310116.2.22
Bibliographic details
Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXIV, 16 January 1931, Page 3
Word Count
1,099IN THE GARDEN Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXIV, 16 January 1931, Page 3
Using This Item
Stuff Ltd is the copyright owner for the Nelson Evening Mail. You can reproduce in-copyright material from this newspaper for non-commercial use under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International licence (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0). This newspaper is not available for commercial use without the consent of Stuff Ltd. For advice on reproduction of out-of-copyright material from this newspaper, please refer to the Copyright guide.