FROM A FRENCHWOMAN’S DIARY

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXIV, 10 January 1931, Page 9

FROM A FRENCHWOMAN’S DIARY

FROCKS AND BLOUSES (By Colline Rouff—For “The Mail”). Frocks continue to be very “fitted.” The typical morning model has a bodice fitted in front, with perhaps a little pouching at the back to give a bloused effect, or else it is made to fit neatly all round. Blouses are tucked tightly into skirts, and skirts are quite tight from

waist to knees. From the knees they are pleated, flared, or flared first and then pleated. *. '. , j, ; , . LOOSE PANELS . V The new.est idea, however, is that the skirt shall have an appearance of fullness given by the introduction of loose panels. A single panel may be cleverly introduced at the back so that it looks like a short train; or there may be two, one in front and one at the back, like an over-skirt divided down the sides. Some panels arc flared, some straight, some triangular; others are fluted and put on in tiers of two, one above the other. They may be put on straight, or on the cross but, however they begin, the hem lines on day dresses are always even, and on a level with the ' under skirts. Every possible use is made of the loose panel idea where evening dresses are concerned. One at the back, may form a real train, sometimes divided into a fish tail. One side panel may be a little longer than the other)'and both will probably be longer than the foundation, particularly when lace' or ■ net materialises the model. "■ SHADOW AND SUBSTANCE 'l; Lace continues to be very much worn in the evening, the most popular choice being the fine needle-run shadow /type which shows quite a large pattern.on .a cobweb net background. It takes niucli lace of this description to make a gown. It is so fine that it is bound to hang a little limply, and a limited lace frock is therefore, a pitiful sight. Yard upon yard of it goes into each flounce; and the mannequin delicately- lifts a flounce edge and raises it high above her head to show just how much has been used. Black, palest green and flesh pink are the chosen colours ..Tor this fine lace; I have seen it in blue, but this looked too insignificant; ' • In the heavy, handsome lace, 'we get a chocolate shade, the new raisin, parchment, and black. The cut, of ' gown is more classic, so less material is - needed than in the case of the “shadow-frock.” All the classic lace gown asks is a good foundation on which it may be posed. And how important are foundations! Each one must be made for its own particular dress, and woe to the woman who thinks she may save money by making one slip do for several. Unless, of course, she has all made on the same lines, but that is difficult these days. Lace looks best over crepc-de-chine, though some designers are using rather shiny satin which is really quite attractive. Georgette gives a dull appearance, while net, although light and pretty, usually means still another slip beneath. VELVET WITH LACE

The idea of putting fur trimming on lace is popular, so long as the fur is very flat, and ribbon-like in its narrowness. Still newer is the notion of using velvet to pipe the flounces, hem,

neck and arm lines of a lace model Net also is edged and piped with velvet,, and the note is repeated in a bouquet of beautifully made velvet flowers with jewelled centres. A velvet pochette, shoes with inset velvet bows, and even velvet gloves! These last arc chic, but very uncomfortable to wear, so it is better to have gloves of fine suede with velvet tops. STEEL BEADS AGAIN Some of the velvet flower trimmings are sprinkled with steel beads. In fact, these light and pretty beads are coming into favour, and are sparingly used on many things. A black georgette frock may have full sleeves just dusted with tiny cut beads. A beret of velvet brushed angora wool, or chenille, will also be sprinkled with them, so that the wearer appears to have been caught in a shower. This is very pretty. A PEEP INTO THE ZODIAC Were you born between November 23rd and December 22nd? This period of the year is given to the Zodiacal sign Sagittarius and the planet Jupiter, and these rule the lives and destines of those born during this time. The person born under Sagittarius has an active, enterprising disposition; ho iff pptimistic and full of hope for the future. He is not easily understood, however, for there are two sides to his character; at one time, lie may be kind, obliging, confident, buoyant, and full of fun, ivhile at another time he will be suspicious, irritable and blunt. Independence is to be expected from a Sagittarius subject, love of liberty, and dislike of a master;' under restraint he will be fretful and rebellious. He prefers to undertake one thing at a time, and to accomplish what is undertaken. His mind is intuitive and progressive, and he will do much while others are pondering and talking over the matter.

An inclination to be too blunt and outspoken is to be noted, and the ability to discover weak spots in the characters of other people. It would be well to try to a,void “flying” over trifles, and to take thought before speaking, otherwise enemies will be made. It will, be wise, too, not to be over exacting. This sign rules over good teachers, inspectors, and lecturers. It also gives success in travelling, agency work, music, writing, or in anything connected with sport and outdoor life. The best health and most happiness will be found where there is plenty of fcpace—-in rough or hilly localities. There will be many admirers, though few real love affairs, and the Sagittarius subject will be a favourite with the opposite sex. Two marriages may come about, the one opposite to the other in effect. If deceived, the worst side of the character is likely to be made manifest. The best harmony will be found with one born between 21st January and 18th February; 21st March and 20th April; 24tli July and 23rd. August; or 24t.h September and 23rd Oetober. Enemies are likely to affect the married life, and there may be some estrangement at some period. The lucky stones are topaz and carbuncle; colours, purple and pale yellow; flower, clover; day, Thursday. CLEANING SILK AT HOME Sal volatile will improve silk which has become stained. Sprinkle a. little of the spirit over the spot and, if necessary, repeat the process after a few minutejs. ' In many cases, it will be found-.theft the sal volatile brings back the colour, as the unsightly spot disappears. To clean white silk, remove all spots with chloroform; then make a solution of a teaspoonful of ammonia and a little soap in a pail of water, and in this dip the silk again and again until it looks clean. Do not wring, but press it between the hands. Rinse in tepid water, '.bang hi a shady place until partly dry, then nlace between two cloths and press with a hot iron until it is quite dry. . 'Silk embroidery and the like can be

cleaned with spirits of wine without removing it from the gown it trims. Put a little of the spirits into a saucer, dip in a camel hair brush and with this go over every part of the embroidery until it is quite clean. It is most important to keep on rinsing the brush in the spirit, so that it is clean every time it is used. When using any of these chemicals, work in daylight. And remember that the spirits must not be exposed to a naked light in any circumstance. HOME MADE SWEETS FOR COUGHS AND COLDS PLEASANT AND BENEFICIAL To make a good cough candy, which the children will cat with relish, put into an enamelled saucepan a breakfastcupful of syrup, the same quantity of granulated sugar, a dessertspoonful of butter and a tablespoonful of hot water. Add two teaspoonsful of essence of horehound, and stir well together. Boil until the mixture forms’ quite easily into a soft ball; then place it on a buttered tin to cool. When the toffee is cool enough to handle, pull it until it is a creamy colour; leave to harden and cut it into pieces with a knife or pair of scissors. Another good cough sweet recipe: Mix one pound of brown,sugar with two teaspoonsful of essence of horehound; add a tablcspoonful of lemon-juice and a dessertspoonful of butter. Boil the mixture, stirring all the time, until it becomes quite brittle when tried in a saucer of cold water. Turn into a greased tin, leave until cold, and break it into suitable pieces. Another splendid remedy for colds and coughs,is Coltsfoot Candy. Put two ounces of dried coltsfoot flowers in a saucepan containing a quart of cold water, and simmer until the liquor is reduced to half. Strain through a fine sieve, return the liquid to the saucepan, and add a pound and a half of loaf sugar, and a dessertspoonful of butter. Stir over the fire until quite thick, turn into a greased tin, leave until it is cold, and break into squares. Malt sweets are splendid tp keep out cold germs. Put a dessertspoonful of olive oil into a saucepan and heat it slowly. Add half a teacupful of milk, a pound -of granulated sugar, and a teaspoonful of malted milk. Bring to boiling point, stirring all the time; add another half a teacupful of milk, another pound of granulated sugar, and another teaspoonful of malted milk. Boil quickly for ten minutes, remove from the fire and stir rapidly for another ten minutes. Pour into a greased tin to cool. A teaspoonful of vanilla essence may be added just before turning out to add to the delicacy of the flavour.