AFTER FORTY YEARS

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXIII, 16 July 1929, Page 7

AFTER FORTY YEARS

THE TAILORESSES' BIRTHDAY A CHANGE FROM THE "BAD OLD DAYS" Last week the Duncdin Tailoresses 1 Union was 40 years old, writes J. T. Paul in the 'Otft'go Daily Times." While there is nothing remarkable about a trade union reaching that age, there is in this connection a moving human story of evil social conditions which at the time awakened the public conscience, and led to the formation '«f the union. It may surprise some readers to-day to {earn that in the late 'eighties sweating had reached a. condition in Dunedin comparable only to the worst examples set by older countries. It was also rampant in other centres, tho most distressing cases being found in Auckland. To the Rev. Rutherford Waddell belongs the credit, of having spoken the first public word in condemnation of the sweating evil in this city. It is true that two public, men in Dunedin—Sir John Richardson and Mr J. B. Bradshaw—had mado an effort in factory legislation to secure better conditions, but Dr. Waddell took up a definite attitude against what ho sensed to 1 be a deplorable evil. He preached a sermon on "Tho Sin of Cheapness," and this created something akin to a sensation when repbrted in the "Otago Daily Times." A vigorous controversy followed, but failed to establish the truth of the matter. It is probable that very few citizens realised the •gravity of the evil. This was proved beyond any doubt in January. 1889, when the "Otago Daily Times" published a series of articles on "The Sweating System in Dunedin." The articles were written by an experienced pressman (Mr Silas Spragg), and had the full backing of the editorial columns. The managing director (Mr George Fenwick) also threw his personal influence against the offenders, and by speech and written word took a leading part with the crusaders for improvement. In its editorial columns the "Otago Daily Times" declared that it was "an undoubted fact that starvation wages are paid to a large number of seamstresses in Duncdin," that "petty hagsling and underhand dealing unworthy of any respectable firm have been practised," and "that well-meaning traders have been handicapped and compromised by the unworthy action of one

or moro delinquents." Then tho "Daily Times" sounded a clarion call for such improvements as would secure decent working conditions for women and safeguards to prevent a, recurrenco of the sweating evil. To say that the exposures contained in tho articles created a sensation is mildly descriptive of their reception by the public. It has always been characteristic of this city that it will rally most readily to assist deserving causes, and tho ''Daily Times" quickly realised that a strong"public sentiment was behind its efforts to destroy the sweating evil. Looking back at the articles one is impressed by the grave evil which had drown unnoticed in the community. The facts stood the severest test of examination. A few of those facts may be detailed here. Mr Spragg visited the homes of. the. workers, some of whom toiled far into the night to earn a pittance. Tho first case was of a. woman employed in finishing hoys' knickerbockers, To the question how lon'g she would work, she replied : "Till just about JLi o'clock, but then I shall have mado my 3s 6d today—that is, by working from halfpast 8 this morning till 11 to-night. But tin's is a special day —it is all the belter class of work, 'it, is only when one gels the first-class work that you can make anything like that." Sometimes this woman made 2s for such a. day's work, and girls of 15 years were receiving 2s 6d a week and less for a week's work. Somo worked eight hours in a, factory, followed by many more in the home.

"Tho night work is the killing part of it," another woman told the pressman. "Without bringing work home at .light wo could not make more than 14s a week, work as hard as wo could. An ordinary hand would make 9s or 10s, and some would not do that." Some of the prices were staggering. Women were paid 3£d per pair for moleskin trousers, and some mado three pairs in a lon'g day. Manv made less. For men's sac coats Is 6"d was paid for making them all through, except the machining. For shirts 3s per doacn . was tofflcred for malting them from tho web. Flannels were paid at 9d per dozen, and second-class shirts were paid for at Is 7d per dozen, and (ho women did their own pressing. Tho earnings of the women on this work ranged from 5s to 7s 6d per week, and to do this they had to take work home at night. Other women were discovered making flour bags at |d a dozen, 6d a gross. Of this work one woman added —"and that put the set on me and made me leave. If I did three gross a day I did very well indeed; that was too much to do and tho work was very hard." Tho investigator gave details of the work done by each person interviewed. There was no attempt at sensationmongering—the articles simply set out the facts, supplying proof .that starvation wages were being paid for a working day which ended in many cases in the early hours of the morning and sometimes encroached on. the Sabbath. The first, fruits of these exposures was a great awakening of public opinion and a committee of citizens was appointed,,. In turn the committee reported to a monster public meeting at which leading citizens spoke. Of these but three are still with us—Sir Robert Stout, Sir George Fenwick, and Dr. Waddell. With others these men istrongly urged the formation of a union, to be called "The Tailoresses' Union of New Zealand." This meeting marks an epoch in the history of the industrial organisation of women .workers, lor out of

its decisions have grown tho uir.ons of women workers throughout New Zealand. Incidentally the meeting also expressed its thanks to the "Ota'go Daily Times" and to Mr Fenwick. The Tailoresses' Union was formed on 11th July, 1889, and the Rev. Rutherford Waddell was elected its first president. It would bo tedious to follow tho fortunes of the union in its succession of defeats and triumphs. It Jias been tho foster -parent ,of all the ojtber unions in the clothing trade. At various times it has lent tangible assistance to its sister unions in the north, nurturing them when their fortunes waned. It spent hundreds of pounds in bringing the Auckland tailoresses up to tho Dunedin standard, and its own progress has been steady and sure. It is obvious that an organisation born in such troublous times invites some comparisons in achievement. By pursuing a policy of constructive and steady effort the union has succeeded in im- j proving working conditions. It has se-1 cured a minimum wage which compares favourably with that ruling in any part of the world. Compared with the state of things which it was called upon to remedy the transformation is remarkable. Apprentices are iioav paid 15s per week when commencing work, and tho wages rise each six months until they receive 35s per week at the end of four years. The minimum wages for journey women factory tailoresses is £2 5s per week for 44 hours, overtime being paid for anything in excess. For shop tailoresses the minimum wage; is £2 10s per week. These conditions have also been obtained for other workers in the clothing trade, the last and most notable example being in 1919, when tho dressmakers and milliners were organised. In these trades the advances then gained ranged from 10s to £1 per week. The record of the union is.in every sense creditable. After 40 years of effort the Tailoressos' Union is an institution which stands high in the estimation of citizens. In addition to protecting its members in thoir working conditions the union renders other services. Among its members are a few who joined up 40 years ago, but a large number remember with gratitude the efforts of the early pioneers who have done so much to brighten the lives of so many women. And to-day it is meet that all who love justice should give at least a fleeting thought to the yesterdays and to-mor-row.