GARDEN FIELD

Manawatu Times, Volume 62, Issue 40, 17 February 1937, Page 13 (Supplement)

GARDEN FIELD

(Specially written for the “Mana Soutine Work in the Borders. February is rather an important * nonth in the garden, in the way of preparing the plots for bulbs, corms, and sweet peas, although it seems early to think about these things, yet wintry days are not so far away, and these things need to be planted early to enable them to make plenty of roots, and also they will bloom earlier if the beds are well drained and in sunny places. Pots and baskets too may be planted with suitable bulbs. Ssow seed of any perennials or hardy annuals such as liuaria antirrhinum, poppies, calendulas, and pansies as these all bloom early. Prune ramble roses now they have gone out of bloom, cut out all the old wood, thus inducing them to make fresh young shoots. Rambler roses soon deterrorate if left year after year unpruned. All ranunculi should be ready to lift from the boarders, if they are to be roplanted in the same position see that some well rotted manure is placed some four inches down, also a sprinkling of bonemeal is beneficial. Freesias need rich soil and quickly show signs of exhaustion if allowed to grown year after year without any added nourishment. The Vegetable Garden. There is very little to do this month beyond completing the planting of winter greens, and caring for the growing root crops. The last sowing of peas and beaus ahould take place this month. Do not neglect to spray the tomatoes they take blight very quickly and prevention is better than cure. Any vacant plots may be deeply dug, at the same time taking the opportunity to trench in all the rough grass etc., which will all help the spring crops. The benefit from rubbish being burnt ou the dug plots cannot be overestimated, they add manure and at the same time soil is sweetened. Prepare ground for strawberries and rhubarb. Turnips, lettuce, shorthorn carrot, beetroot, and silver beet may still be sown. Hypericum PolyphyDum. The rock garden is not a very attractive feature during the early days of autnmu. Most of the plants have long since ceased to flower. For this Teason auy low growing plants that will thrivo in elevated positions and give us flowers at the season named arc sure of a good reception. One such is the charming little hypericum polyphyllum, a native of Asia Minor. It forms a neat cushion of pule glaucous leaves, its slender stems having a very decided prostrate habit. The flowers which are an inch in diameter, are produced moderately freely, the colour being a rich golden yellow. It flowers during October and November and again in February and March, when it seems brighter and more attractive. For clothing the top of a rock or dry wall this plant is excellent, and it will thrive in any soil. The Culture of Figs. Figs will grow in almost any soil that contains a fair amount of lime, but it must be Arm, for looseness encourages gross growth that ia never fruitful, and is too soft to stand the winter. In moderately poor soil that is firm the wood becomes short jointed and firm, and not likely to be injured by frosts. A calcareous loam with a proportion of flints on a chalky sub soil is where they grow to perfection. Although the fig likes moisture, it cannot bear stagnation, so the drainage must be good. When the leaves turn yellow in the autumn planting should be done, but if obtained in pots from the nursery they may be planted at any time. Dig out holes five or six times larger than the balls and insert them only deep enough to cover the top roots with an inch or two of soil, and tread the ground firmly as the work proceeds. Figs produce two crops in a season. The first crop on the previous years wood, and the second in the leaf-axils , of the current seasons growth. Pruning is simple, and consists, with those against walls, of training in the young growth and cutting away the rest, for perfect ripening off of all parts is necessary for fruit production, care must be taken not to train in the shoots too thickly, as the large foliage must be fully exposed to sun and air. It a top dressing of rotton manure is put on the ground as far as the roots extend, it will help in producing healthy growth and bringing a crop to perfection. Constructing a Garden PooL A little pool is a lovely and interesting item in the garden and a source of much interest to children. How they appreciate watching the fish threading their way in and out among the acquatic plants, and the commotion the frogs indulge in when they hear their approaching footsteps. The successful pool is obviously one in which the water is clear, and in which both the plants and the fish grow well. Where there is room enough, do not make the pool too small. Nine feet by six will be found a nice sixe and will accomodate quite a few plants. The yellow water iris is charming when placed in one corner, while there are many varieties of water lilies to- chose from. The water hyacinth too is an attractive and interesting plant. However hot and dry the summer days may be, the little garden pool is always inviting. Many interesting plants may bo grown around it, including spireas, day lilies, hardy ferns, mimulas, water forget-me-nots, Japanese and sibiriaa irises, callas, etc. In the making of the pool, a four inch thickness of concrete is necessary for the floor and eight inches for the sides. If tho soil is inclined to be friable see that everything is fairly level and rani as firmly as possible, and it any diflicalty is likely to be experienced then wire netting may be put iu the middle of the thickness of concrete

vatu Daily Times'* by “Lorna.’*) as an aid to keep it from cracking. Get the slopes, the sides, and the floor as level as possible to prevent waste and just before the concrete is put into position the surface of the earth may be covered with stiff paper so as to prevent the earth and the concrete get' ling mixed together. On part of cement to three of sand, gravel, or crushed stone is the best to use. Whatever is used to mix with the cement should be free of clay, as the clay prevents the cement from holding tightly on to the small pieces. The concrete should be mixed separately on some boards or a cement path, and only as much as can be put into position in half an hour should be mixed at a time. The material, three buckets of the shingle to one bucket of cement is mixed dry, and water is then added through the rose of a watering can. The whole is then mixed thoroughly until* it is-exactly like stiff porridge. It should never be allowed to get thinner than this. When ready, the concrete may be put into position and smoothed over. The pool completed, it should be covered with wet socks to keep off the sun, and then may be filled with water three days after completion. Cement may continue to harden for at least six months, and should always bo allowed to dry out slowly. When it does harden, a certain surplus of lime is left, and this is harmful to fish, therefore before the water is put in, the bottom of the pool should be painted two or three times with water glass at a strength of one in four. Try and have the pool in a sunny position. The need for light may be emphasised whe it is said that those who have pools in sunless situations find dark green or brown algae growing in the water. Cover tho bottom of the pool with from six to nine inches of soil if water lilies are to be grown. Plant them firmly in this placing stones around them to keep in position, eighteen inches to two feet of

water is sufficient lor most varieties of water lilies to grow in. It is quite a good idea to cover the water lilies with a few inches of water only, filling the pool gradually as growth commences. In addition to water lilies, it will be necessary to have some submerged oxygenating plants, and these will absorb the impurities given out by the fish and provide tho oxygen necessary for them. These are the plants that will provide the shelter and shade for the young fish and a spawning place also. The water hyacinth is good, as it has such a mass of fern-like roots which penetrate deeply into the water, while others that do the work well are the water starwort, hairgrass, and water violets. Besides the submerged aquatics, there arc the floating acquatics, which form . masses of attractive foliage and provide food and shade for the fish. The green slime so much disliked in pools is really green algae. Large quantities of this can be removed by stirring the water from timev to time with a stick, but the best way to keep it down is to instal plenty of ramshorn snails. These are not only good “ workers,“ but they are most attractive. The green slime usually disappears as the pond matures. Digging. It should be borne in mind that any digging done from now onward, and intended to be used for producing early flowers or vegetables should bo deeply trenched and plenty of roughage dug in, such as clumps of grass, rotted straw or hay, lawn clippings, in fact, anything that will make for better drainage, with consequently warmer borders. The beds themselves too, should be raised higher than the surrounding lovel. Any extra pains taken in this way will give its reward later ou. Calendulas are supposealy easy things to cultivate, yet they will not bloom during winter, unless given extra well drained positions. Bad drainage sooon tells on them, the foliage becoming covered with black and yellowish blemishes, with lack of growth. It is useless to try and grow things early without, being prepared to go to a little extra trouble in the preparationof the soil. Pieces of ground may be pressed into service that are useless during the wanner parts of the year, when they

become too dry, but these are just the places whero something can be planted to bloom early, even though it does something necessitate well watering to get them going for an early start. Wallflowersi too, love these positions. The agapauthus which is blooming freely now shows its ability to thrive and bloom well under most adverse conditions.

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