GARDEN & FIELD

Manawatu Times, Volume 62, Issue 28, 3 February 1937, Page 13 (Supplement)

GARDEN & FIELD

(Specially written for the “ Man Routine Work in the Borders. From now on thought will be given to the preparation of sites for sweet peas and early flowering bulbs. Where slugs are still proving troublesome it is wisest to sow the sweet peas in small pots, when they can be pushed out without any damage to the roots when large enough to set in the trenchi es or other spots desired. The winter flowering varieties should only be grown where there are available w r arm, sunny corners where frosts do not penetrate. In order to obtain early blooms from bulbs, the beds need to bo raised and plenty of roughage dug iu to ensure warmth and drainage. The same applies to anemones and ranunculi. Dry spots may be devoted to the growing of calendulas and the gay blooms of these are much appreciated during the winter months. They are also among the best of things for window boxes. Linaria sown in warm spots will provide welcome blooms during the cheerless months, also primula malacoides. Plant stylosa irises for winter blooming at the foot of warm walls, or the high parts of the rock garden. Sort out bulbs for growing in pots and baskets. Lachenalias are ideal for low pots and baskets and there are several very fine varieties on the market. Pot up cyclamen conns which have been lying dormant. Dahlias and chrysanthemums will need attention in the way of pinching out all superfluous growths and in keeping them well tied aud staked. Sow seed of Iceland cineraria auricula, pansy, polyanthus primrose wallflower, bellis daisy, forget-me-nots anemone, ranunculi, etc. The Vegetable Garden Continue to plant any and all kinds of winter greens. Weather is favourable for small sowings of all roots crops, peas, beans, trad all salad plants. With frequent showera weeds arc more troublesome and constant war has to be made against them. Pumpkins and marrows have made very little headway owing to lack ot warmth in the soil. The same can be said of outdoor tomatoes which give promise of fruit* ing much later than usual. Keep runners cut off from strawberry roots. Prepare plots for rhubarb roots. A Garden of Heather Ericas are among the most beautiful and useful of our evergreen shrubs—they are practically indispensible, and no garden seems complete without them in some part or other. Many people admire tho Ericas, but seldom attempt to grow them in their own gardens, thinking that they need a special kind of soil. Actually heather will grow freely in any good garden soil that is lime free, although a few varieties will tolerate a certain amount of lime. The ideal soil for Heathers is however, a sandy soil to which a little peat or leaf mould has been added. For the teason that they dislike lime, it advisable to keep them in small groups to themselves, or use them in combination with azaleas and rhododendrons which are also limo haters. Although ericas are hardy, yet a background of evergreen shrubs to provide shelter from tho piercing cold North East winds affords protection which they appreciate. Heathers can be planted in a variety of ways. They may be planted in beds to themselves, or very pretty corners can be made where little mounds of soil are planted with heather. Another charming effect is produced by planting in undulating borders with paths to correspond, or low growing varieties may be planted as an edging to the herbaceous border giving colour during the cold, dreary months of I winter. I A place should be found for the somiprostrate varieties in the rock garden, and if a few scillas, muscari, or lachenalias arc planted in clumps between, a very attractive display of colour is given in the early spring. Ericas are fairly easy to propagate, the growths may be pegged down to the ground, covering the stem portion around the peg with peaty soil, and leaving about three inches of growth above the soil. Another method is to select young growths about two inches long with a heel, pulled off at a joint and dibble them in sandy soil in boxes. The boxes are placed in a cold frame watered in with a fine-rosed can, and kept closed until rooted. Shape from strong sun* Ehinc, and syringe twice daily in bright weather. When rooted admit air, gradually increasing it prior to planting out iu pots. By giving careful attention to the selection of varieties and the period of flowering a continuous succession of bloom can be had over the greater part of the year. Begonias, Gloxinias, and Streptocarpus From Seed. In the initial stages of culture, all these require identical treatment, and if well cared for, all will bloom the first year, which to many growers is an advantage. Seed sowing should be done either iu autumn or very early spring, and a warmth of not less than 70 degs., and a moist genial atmosphere are all necessary for best results. Tho most suitable compost is fresh loam aud sweet leaf mould in about equal proportions, with enough line silver sand to ensure porosity. Pass all through a quarter inch riddle and mix well. It is then advisable to bake the soil for a little in an old iron pot, to destroy any weed seeds aud pests that may be present. Seven inch pans, well aud carefully drained, are filled to about an inch from the tops -with the compost, and then finished off with three quarters of an inch of the same passed through a fine sieve. Make moderately firm and level, and water well either through a very fine rose, or plunge to the rims in water, so that the whole mass is thoroughly moistened. Let them stand to drain for a couple of hours, aud then scatter the seeds as thinly and evenly

awatu Daily Times" by "Lorna.") as possible. Do not attempt to covoi with soil but sprinkle a pinch or two of fine silver sand over the surface of each pan. Lay a sheet of glass and a piece of paper over each. If the atmosphere of tho house is moist, no water should be required until after germination has taken place, but should there be the slightest sign of the 3oil drying, plunge to the rim for a few minutes in a bucket of tepid water. After the seedlings appear, this method of watering must always be followed whenever it is necessary. After germination is apparent, remove the paper, and a few days later begin to tilt tho glass a very little, increasing this as growth progresses. It is very necessary, while tho seedlings are still small, to mako certain that no slugs or woodlico can reach the seed pans, the latter especially being very partial to small Begonias. When pricking off, which should be carried out as early as possible, use the same compost, and prepare the pans in tho same way. As they begin to get crowded in the pans, transplant into boxes, using the same compost but in a rougher state. Eventually move singly into three inch pots, and when necessary into the five inch size, in which they will bloom well. The Watering of Pot Plants It has been said that a good gardener, be he amateur or professional, is always recognised by the manner in which he applies water to pot plants. This maxim has a great deal of truth in it, for probably more plants are ruined by careless watering than by any other moans. In the winter months, great care in applying water is very essential, if pot plants are to be kept healthy. During winter there is very little growth, and consequently very little moisture is required. All necessary watering should be done in the morning, so that it has time to become absorbed before the cold night period begins. Great care should be taken not to spill any surplus water on the staging or floor, as humidity is not desirable with many pot plants. Water of the same temperature as the house is especially necessary for tho plants in the winter months. Experiments have shown that cold water direct from the taps does little damage in summer. The old way of tapping pots with the knuckles or a short stick has much to recommend it. The expert can usually tell by the look of the soil if the plant requires water. The pot should be filled to the brim if water is needed, as the giving of any less quantity will result in the water not reaching the bottom of the pot —a truly useless operation. Plants have each their own peculiarities as regards the amount of water required. Geraniums and cactii will exist during the winter almost without water at all, while such things as Bpireas and hydrangeas are capable of using much water when they are in full growth and are often used in experiments which demonstrate the rapid intake of water by growing plants. Bulbs which are being forced requiro large quantities of water after they havo made considerable leaf growth. Leaves require water for starch making, and also lose large amounts by transpiration. Soft growing plants such as winter flowering begonias and cyclamen require careful watering, as surface moisture on the leaves or buds sets up decay. In watering cyclamens, no water should touch the leaves, flower stems, or buds. Primulas, sehizanthus, and cinerarias also repay the careful use of the watering can. Azaleas if they are being forced, rather delight in plenty of moisture. They should also be syringed daily to ensure healthy plants. Seedlings in pans or boxes do not damp off so readily if they are kept on the dry side. If possible water them on a sunny morning and thus ensure that excess moisture will be absorbed quickly* Plants in cold frames rarely require watering during the winter months unless they aro in pots.