THE GARDEN

Manawatu Standard, Volume LX, Issue 255, 25 September 1940, Page 4

THE GARDEN

Notes are published under this heading, 'and readers interested in gardening are invited to send in questions relating to matters upon which they wish expert advice; answers w.iJl be published with the weekly notes. THE FLOWER GARDEN.

In many gardens the practice of rooting chrysanthemums is dispensed with and at this time of the year the old plants are taken out of the ground, and side growths are torn from them. I'jiese generally have plenty of roots and can be grown by being planted up into good soil. They are not so good as the cuttings that were taken earlier in the season for growing show blooms, but they do give plants that will flower well. Those pieces that are furthest from the parent stem are the best. Plant them up so that they will make single-stemmed plants and thev will do well.

Delphiniums that have been growing in the same spot for several years should be taken up and pieces taken off the old root with an eye and some root. They can, also be grown as cuttings when the young shoots are about three inches or more in length and they are then solid. Put the cuttings in sandy, peaty soil and keep them moist and shaded with a little gentle 'heat below and they will soon root up. They can theri be potted up and hardened off for planting out when the ground is ready. The soil for delphiniums should be deeply dug and some well-rotted- manure worked in. When they are growing a top dressing can be given. Perennial phloxes are plants that have been in retirement long enough. They are well worth a place in any garden, especially when they can be grown in masses. PJants that have been grown in the same place for some years should he taken up and all the soil washed away from their roots; then the best and strongest pieces can be selected for replanting. It is not generally known, but these plants will grow readily from cuttings made of the roots. These should he nursed along for one season and then they will be ready for planting out. Tuberous-rooted begonias for planting out in beds should be started now in gentle heat. They can be grown from cuttings or even dividing the tubers where there are more than one shoot showing tip. November will be early enough to put them out in the open ground. Roses can be given a dressing of animal manure now if this can he got, but do not leave it on the surface to dry out, fork'it into the soil, where it will soon form humus and help to hold moisture. Keep a sharp look out for any pest attacking the plants. Green-fly has already made its api •".ranee, but has been dealt with by an application of one of the derris dust sprays. As the weather improves the work of cleaning up the beds and borders must not he. forgotten and there are plenty of plants that can he set out now to make the borders gay. Antirirhinums, stocks, phlox, petunias, di--1 ant-lms and so on can be planted when all danger from frosts is over. Such plants as petunias often stand the j winter quite ■ well, but they -do not I seem to make growth when they , are I planted out too early in the season. Beds and borders that have been in use for some, years should have some of the soil taken away and this can he replaced with either fresh turf or some of the soi l from the vegetable garden. Soil that is exchanged in this way may be quite good for the plants that are to be grown on it. It must be borne in mind that neither of them are likely to have carried crops of a similar nature, and what has been used up for one crop may not be required for the next. Potash is rather slow in becoming available to the use of plants. A little of this should he sprinkled about amongst the plants. AA ood ashes are useful in this respect and should never he washed . keep them dry until they are required. QUESTIONS.

•'‘Plants” sujs; “I am a new gardener and have neither a glasshouse nor a name, anti yet i would Use to rai-.e some seedling plants lor liiysolt. Could they be raised in the open ground?” . . I One way in which you can raise seedling piaiits is to raise a-ted, in a sheltered part of the garden, six or eight inches above the surround-1 ing' soil. If the sod is heavy, work in plenty of sand so that good drainage is ensured. If you have any old weiirotted manure some of this can be worked in at the same time. When choosing a spot tor raising seedlings, it is a good plan to choose the warmest part of the garden, and a great deal can be done with a cover of calico or something light like it. The great advantage gained by using such a cover is that it can be put over the young plants during rough weather and can be rolled up when the weather is fine and warm. Young seedlings grown in this wav should never be allowed to become overcrowded, hut as scon as they are large enough to handle they can he either pricked out into boxes or into another bed made up in much the same way.- A light dressing of superphosphate, will bo Jound a good thing to boost the young seedlings along. Plant out ill open positions as soon as they are ready. “Amateur Gardener” says: “AVoukl you please tell me the best situation for .chrysanthemums; when to take cuttings of geraniums; what to do with daisies on a lawn? T also received some roses through the post the other day, Some of the branches are twelve inches long. AVoukl you advise me to prune these?”

The best position for chrysanthemums is one that gets the full sun but is sheltered from bcavv winds. Thev do not like being coddled and are liable to grow too tall if this is done. Cuttings of geraniums can he taken at any time of the year, but whenever they arc taken, cut them off and let them dry for a day or two before they are put in sandy soil to root. AA : e have seen geranium cuttings grow from a plant rna.t was hung up in a wire-netting fence for over two months. Do not give them too much water at any time. Daisies on lawns can be removed with sulphate of ammonia. Put a small pinch in the centre of each plant. Another method is to use an eyedropper. and after bruising the centre of tho plant put a tew drops of benzine on it. This may he better than the sulphate of ammonia which, wo understand, is hard to get. In 'reference to the roses, we would advise you to cut them back to a dormant bud, which you will find lower down the stem. “Amateur”: AYe arc doubtful about your spray for peach trees and think von must have misread the quantities. The quantity, of lime-sulphur recommended is three and three-quarter fluid ounces, p'us one and a quarter ounces'of colloidal sulphur tq four gallons of water. Mix the lime-sulphur and then add the colloidal sulphur to it. The spray you mention is strong enough for the pink stage. Ifi. it .is not convenient to use lime or Bordeaux mixture, the Burgundy mixture can

be made and used at a strength of 5-5-60. To make four gallons, dissolve six and a half ounces of bluestone in two gallons of water, but be careful to dissolve it in wood or porcelain, as it will burn iron or tin. Then dissolve six and a half ounces of washing soda in two gallons, and when both are dissolved pour the washing soda into the bluestone and use at once. It will not keep more than about eight hours. In reference to the Marguerite strawberry plants which you say are not growing: There may be some cause, but it is rather early in the season to expect much growth yet. There is no need to worry about the flowers the plants have on them now. Have a look at the roots of the plants and 6ee if these are in good order. There may be some grass grubs below.

TOMATOES. Tomatoes are frost-tender plants and should never be planted outside until all fear of frosts has passed. To get good strong plants, sow the seed now under the cover of glass and as soon as they begin to show their fourth leaves they can be pricked out into boxes, where they will have more room to grow. When they are ready or the soil is ready for them it should be possible to lilt them with a good ball of earth round their roofs and transfer them to the soil with this ball of earth adhering. Plant them firmly, about 18 inches apart in the

rows, and the rows at least three feet apart. If the soil is in reasonably good order there is no necessity to give it heavy dressings of manure until the plants begin to grow. Then a dressing of superphospate (two parts) sulphate of potash (one part) can _ be given and hoed into the soil. Keep the soil well worked at all times and tie the plants up as they grow. The plants are treated by having the lateral or side shoots taken. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

The ground can be prepared for the main potato crop now by digging it and working in some farmyard manure. Some potash manure can be worked in at the same time. The main standby for any house is the potato, and as long as there are plenty of them to be got there is nothing that can go wrong with the general menu. By the way, a lady gardener wants to know if there is any wav- of drying potatoes. She thinks that if potatoes could ho dried they could he sent to our soldiers at the front, and she thinks that they would welcome them. AA’e believe that there is some way of drying them, and if any of our readers knows of any such process we- would be glad to hear of it. She says that if she can get a recipe she will grow a much larger plot for'the purpose of drying the potatoes. AVe do not see why this could not he done with other vegetables—peas, for instance. However, it may be a case of “sending coals to Newcastle,” and wo give it for what it may be worth. There is no doubt that a great deal more could lie done with-herbs in the same wav as our grandmothers used to do in days gone by. Thyme and sage could he cut and luing up to dry for the winter. Thev will even keep on the plant.

* AA’hen looking for a good manure for onion plants a mixture of blood and bone, superphosphate, and potash will be found a useful tiling. Bone dust is fairly slow in action. These tilings can be mixed together and hoed into the rows while cultivating the plants. Keep the ground well worked between the rows and draw the soil away from the

base of the plants as time goes on. It; does not matter what the crop is; plenty of cultivation is necessary to: good growth. Keep the hoo going amongst all growing crops. The more often this can be done the better the soil will respond to manure, and the crop will benefit. Do not wait until the surface of the soil gets hard and cracks, but keep the hoe going the whole time. '

Keep on sowing peas for successional crops. One of the medium-growing varieties can be chosen at this time of the year. Nearly every gardener has one or two more favourite, varieties which he uses on every occasion. It would be just as well to give some other varieties a chance and perhaps try out a few novelties each season. We feel certain that the great trial grounds of England would not put their seal of approval on anything if there was not something special about it. Another thing is that the further we go Providence lias been working over all to keep tune with the increase in population. This can be seen in the strides that have taken place in wheatgrowing. Wheat has been produced by hybridists that has a greater food value than the old types, and again there are varieties that grow further south or further north as the case may be. At the present time new varieties of potatoes are being' tried out which are more resistant to disease and- will grow in colder districts. In an endeavour to get new varieties several expeditions have been working in the Andes, principally in Ecuador, Peru and Chile. Several likely kinds have been found high up in the hills, and it is expected that they will have some bearing on solving the problems. We can all help in these matters by trying out new plants and noting the soils they like test, and then telling our friends. We may not find that they are all improvements, but some may suit your particular soil tetter than the variety you are growing at the present time.