PERENNIALS

Manawatu Herald, Volume XLV, Issue 2617, 9 August 1923, Page 1

PERENNIALS

HOW TO CULTIVATE THEM. “Perennials” was the title of a lecture delivered under the auspices of the Horticultural Society at New Plymouth recently by an expert gardener. Perennial plants, said the lecturer, were those which, once planted, continued to flower for a good many years, under ordinary conditions. When well established they would give a plentiful supply of flowers during the of the -year, always providing a careful selection had been made. All perennials died down after flowering, and following a short resting season they would spring up again from the roots and flower again the following year. Although the big majority of them flowered in the spring and summer, a number of varieties did so in April, May, June and even later. Until recently perennial plants had been very little grown in New Zealand, and there was still plenty of room for improvement, in their culture. They were easily grown and did well in New Zealand. They should strive to improve this class of flowers as much as they had done roses, chrysanthemums, daffodils, etc. The season for planting perennials was now well advanced. There were several methods of planting to get good results. The best, no doubt, was to have a border from four to eight feet wide with a fence or hedge a'S a background; a fence was better as the roots of the hedge plants took the nourishment from the soil. Another way was to plant anywhere where (here was a vacant space large enough to accommodate three or more of the same kind; the site should not be under large trees or too near big shrubs. A third method was to plant whole beds of the same variety and, as nearly as possible of! tlie same colour. The majority of the varieties liked a sunny position, bul some would adapt themselves to partial shade. Shelter was always necessary for the best results, especially from the tall-growing varieties; these would give a good deal of trouble if exposed to all winds.

As a rule perennials wore not very particular as to wliat kind of soil they were planted in; any ordinary garden soil would do, provided it had been dug to a good depth. If some kind of manure were applied at the time, or after planting, the plants would he given a good start' for the first year. A dressing of manure should he applied once a year, preferably in the autumn. If stable manure was not available, blood and bone and basic slag would do; a yearly dressing of lime would benefit them to a great extent. A perennial border should he prepared as early as possible, so as to permit the earth settling again before planting. The plants should he obtained from a reliable source, and soil should always be made firm around the roots. Watering was necessary in fine weather. To get the best effect from two to six specimens of the same variety should be planted together so as to get a mass of bottom at the one time. The tallest varieties should be planted at the back of the clump, the semitall next and the dwarf plants in front. Here and there, however, some of the semi-tall specimens should be planted towards the front in order to obtain a broken effect. Naturally a perennial border was inclined to be barren during July and August, but by planting one or two plants of the silvery grey lavender, or santolina, and here and there a clump of earlv-flowering bulbs or small, winter-flowering shrub, there would always be a good display of blooms. Perennials needed very little attention in the winter months, except for cutting off the dead flower stalks and keeping the weeds down. In the spring they needed staking as soon as they began to grow; otherwise they would be blown over by the first storm. The best way to stake the strong-growing varieties was with some manuka or ti-tree sticks, with side twigs attached. These should be placed around and between the plants, which would grow up inside them. The foliage would soon hide the stakes. During the summer the soil .should be kept disturbed and free from weeds, and the plants should be watered in dry weather. All dead flowering stalks should be removed, thus encouraging another batch of flowers to come.