IN A TIBETAN MONASTERY.

Manawatu Herald, Volume XLIII, Issue 2336, 1 October 1921, Page 4

IN A TIBETAN MONASTERY.

JOXGPEN AND ELECTRIC TORCH.

Since the advance parly of the Mount Everest expedition left Khampa Dzong and turned westward along the frontier of Tibet and Nepal, its route has led through one of the most secluded regions of the East, and t_o several communities of Buddhists dwelling in mountain monasteries north and north-west of Everest, Colonel Howard Bury and his party have been the first European visitors.

In a despatch from Tingri Dzong, dated June 20th, Colonel Howard Bury gave a picturesque account of his reception at Shekai Dzong, where there is a large monastery with 400 monks.

“The views from Shekai Dzong,” he wrote, “were quite imposing as I stood on a conical rocky hill like an enlarged Si. .Michael's Mount. The actual town stood on the base of the hill, but the monastery, consisting of innumerable buildings and narrow streets, is literally perched halfway up the hillside, and is connected Inwalls and towers, with a fort built. Jtigher up. This again was connected bv turreted walls with a curious Gothic-like structure on the summit of the hill, where incense was freely offered to the deities.

“Immense crowds of people flocked round to see, and were most embarrassing in their attentions. Presently the Jongpen arrived with gifts of eggs. With a few words of command he relieved us from the too pressing attentions of the crowd, and soon had a fine Chinese tent pit-, died for us.

“The following- day we remained at Shekai Dzong owing to the difficulties of transport. In the morning we called on the ecclesiastical Jongpen, the other being a Way at Lhasa. He t§-iselv lived in a house

at the foot of the hill, instead of the official residence, high up on the mountain side. _He gave, us the usual Tibetan tea made with salt and butter, but well churned up, and therefore not too unpleasant. We were also given dishes of macaroni, mince, and an excellent junket. These presented no difficulties, as we are now becoming experts with the chopsticks. We presented the Jongpen with a Leverlight electric torch; and at first it rather frightened him, but afterwards caused great astonishment and gave much pleasure.

“In the afternoon we went up to visit the monastery. It consisted of a great number of buildings, ter* raced oncyabove the other on a very steep, rocky slope. A path across the face of the rock brought us to several archways, under which we went. Then we climbed up very narrow winding streets until we reached the main courtyard of the temple. Here we were met by the official head of the monastery, appointed by the Lhasa Government, who is responsible for the revenu.es and expenditure of the monastery. He conducted us into the main temple, which was very dark and smelt strongly of rancid butter from all the butter-lamps. “Several life-sized statues of the Buddha were covered with precious stones and turquoises, and behind them was a colossal figure of the Buddha quite 50ft. high. Round ahout the temple were eight curious figures, some 10ft. high, dressed in quaint flounce dresses, which I was told were the eight guardians of the shrine. AVe then went up steep, slippery ladders almost in complete darkness until we came out on a platform opposite the gilded face.of the Great Buddha. Here were offerings of grain and butter in great profusion, and some most interesting pieces of carved silver exquisitely worked, and also some curious old chain armour. We then went out into a kind of roof courtyard, where we were given very buttery tea and sweetmeats.

“Before leaving we went to call on the old abbot of the monastery, the reincarnation of a former abbot. He proved a most charming old man, and had spent 66 years of his life in the monastery. The monks literally worshipped him. He was most interested in us, and his attendants eventually persuaded him to come out and be photographed, as we all wanted a picture of him, since they said his time on earth was now very short. He dressed up in beautiful gold brocade. Some priceless silk hangings were put up behind as a background for this very rich monastery. As soon as I could get the photographs developed at Tingri I promised to send him some copies. The promise has now been fulfilled. They had never actually seen phographs, but had heard about them.”