Notes.

Manawatu Herald, 11 December 1900, Page 2

Notes.

On a Tour of the North Island of N.Z., (October-November 1900) including the HOT LAKES DISTRICT. (The Wonderland of New Zealand.) By Chas. Austin. * (Continued.) ROTORUA. After spending four days at Okoroire, I left at 10 a.m. by coach en route to Rotorua, a distance of 82 miles. The vehicles are comfortable and supplied with first-class' horses. At 12.80 (noon) we arrive at half-way-house, where we partook of lunch, and then resumed our journey. The roads being in good order, the weather all that could be desired, and passing through about 16 miles of native bush — the scenery of which .:« superb — makes this drive one of .he most pleasant I have experienced, arriving at Rotorua at 8.30 p.m. Before reaching the town, our interest is centred on the view of Lake Rotorua— 99o feet above sea level, with an area of about 12 miles by 18 miles -with Mokoia Island prominently in view, with a beautiful fine day and a clear blue sky, and a lovely clear fresh air wafted across the lake presents a scene which is enchanting and appreciated after emerging from the bush. A little later on my attention was drawn to numerous clouds of steam arising in iff directions, whioh announces the " -.wt that lam in close proximity to the wonderful Geysers, Hot Lakes, steam jets and mud holes of Rotorua, where exist the wonders of the wonderland of New Zealand. The chief centre of attraction in Rotorua is the government sanatorium. The grounds of the sanatorium, beautifully laid out with winding paths, well-kept gardens, tennis and croquet lawns, with its geysers, pavillion and many other attractions, besides the famous baths (which have a fame of wo! V -renown for mmv curative "irtues) makes it ths most popular health resort in the colony. Rotorua is visited by thousands of people every year, who journey from all parts of the world to use the baths and see the various sights in the Lake district. There is also an up-to-date hospital in the sanatorium, with a resident doctor. This is of great service, and a boon to patients intending to take a course of baths under medical advice. The remains of the old native village (Ohinemutu) are situated on a point of land abutting the lake. This was originally a strongly fortified position, and is of very great interest to the visitor. A stroll around this village, where there are still a number oi natives K is very interesting. Here yoir«jiiy " see a number of Maori bathing pools of different temperatures, and oon-

taining various properties which are useful for relieving, and the cure of many coiii^liLu.. In ilic c^rly moi'n you may o tli-j a;^c. Ui zcxus of Maoris disporting themselves in their particular favourite bathing pool. The Maori children have their own baths, and a few coppers or some silver thrown into the water will be the means of causing some tun as many of the youngsters dive to recover the coins. The Maori women do all thoir washing at the hot pools ; and it is very interesting to see their mode of cooking with the steam jets. As you ramble around Ohinemutu there are numerous boiling-water holes, Rteam jets and boiling mud pools, hissing and spluttering in every direotion, which have a ourious interest for the visitor. WHAXAREWARBWA. At Whakarewarewa are to be seen the principal sights of the hot springs?, it being really the centre of "Wonderland. 1 ' I was extremely fortunate in seeing the large Pohutu geyser in action on November 14th, as it is often inactive for weeks together. The Pohutu was a magnificent sight (which is indescribable), as it sent up huge columns of boiling water and steam to a height of about 60ft. The effect is most beautiful as the sun shines on the dazzling boiling spray, through which you may sea tiny rainbows of the most lovely colours. The force which is expended in causing this hugh geyser to play would probably be sufficient to provide the motive power for the largest factory in New Zealand, were it possible to utilise it for the purpose. The tremendous roar and rush while the Pohutu geyser is playing impresses one that it is the " Wonder of Wonderland." The famous Wairoa geyser (which sends up a column of water 200 to 800 ft in height) was also in activity on Tuesday, Nov. 18th— the first time that it had played, naturally, for four and a half years — though it has, on several occasions, been induced to play by " soaping," which is strictly forbidden by the authorities. I forgot to mention that I had the well-known guide Sophia, the heroine of the Tarawera eruption, as a guide at * Whakarewarewa. My guide, who speaks the English language fluontly, did not forget to point out all the places of interest, and explained tho various tv?/)itior»« in r>o^ r)D '*^ or ' w^-h the wonderful sight 3at Whakarewarewa. There are also many other interesting places to visit at Whakarewarewa, of which I will mention a few, viz. : The great Ngawha, or cooking pool name Parekohuru, which ib nearly always at boiling heat. The Maoris say that this pool "is as deep and unfathomable as a woman's heart." A little further on we come to a large bathing pool used by the Maoris, and here the Maori chi dren will readily dive for any coins the visitor may throw in the water. Then there is the historical Teanaotetukutuku cave, in which the Chief Tukutuku is said to have hidden from his pursuers nearly a hundred years ago, and when found, his brains were cooked in the Brain Pot (which I next saw) and provided a delicious repast for the conquering chief. The Pigeon geyser, Giant's caldron, the Lightning pool and the Torpedo geyser, which makes reports like a gun as it discharges itself beneath the surface of the stream below, are all in close proximity to each other. Then there are the Spout bath, Alum batb, Jack's bath, and the famous Oil bath at Whakarewarewa ; the latter bath can be made any temperature to snit the bather, and whilst in the Oil bath it imparts a delightful velvety feeling to the skin. The Bacon pot in n continuous boiling mud hole which smells like bacon. The Coffee-pot is a boiling spring which resembles coffee in colour. There are also numerous other sights at Whakarewarewa, such as boiling springs, mud holes and steam jets, which are constantly bubbling up and hissinjr a»one passes by. It is not wise for a stranger to attempt to see the sights of Whaka without an experienced guide. We next saw Nelson's house, the finest-carved Maori whar« in New Zealand, which is well worth a visit. On the way back to Eotorua, I visited Sodom and Gomorrah, a desolatelooking place, which was rather a splendid sigbt before large quantities of sulphur had been removed, which has spoilt the beauty of this interesting place. The Fairy springs, 2£ miles from Rotorua, is a very pretty sight (guide 6d) and should not be missed. (To be Continued.)