THE GARDEN.
(By W. Taylor in Journal ot' Agriculure )
The winter supply of vegetables will largely depend on the work done in the next three or four weeks. During that period all the brassica family should be planted. Brussels sprouts should be got out as soon as possiblo; unless the plants are well grown before winter sets in they will bo disappointing. The last planting of cauliflowers for the season is done now; they should head in April, and be followed by early broccolis, a full planting of which should be made, including early, mid-season, and late varieties. Cabbages should be planted, and last of all savoys and kales. A suitable fertilizer for all these crops is blood-and-bone and superphosphate in equal parts, giving about 5 lb per square rod, or basic slag, 6 lb per square rod, applied before planting. In either caso give nitrate of soda, 1 -lb per rod, after the plants begin to grow, and a similar dressing five or six weeks later. The first dressing of the nitrate should be strewn close to the plants, so that they may get it readily, or it can be applied in liquid form directly to the roots. In that case dissolve the nitrate in water, allowing } oz. to each gallon, and give each plant 1 pint of the mixture. Cabbages may be planted 2 ft apart in rows 2 ft 6 in apart. Before planting place the plants in a tub in which is sufficient water to cover the roots, and let them remain for about an hour, by which time the plants will be well charged with water. When a bundle is taken from the tub lift a handful of mud from the bottom and rub it over the roots of the plants. The mud will protect the roots from the air and prevent them drying. Planting is best done with a short-handled hoe. The hoe should be driven into the ground and, simultaneously with the blow necessary to drive it in, drawn towards the planter. A space will be opened beyond the hoe into which the roots of the plant are thrust. Now take the hoe out, and with the head give a smart punch to firm the soil. By this method the roots go into moist soil, none of the dry surface crumbs falling in as they do when a dibber is used, and no watering is needed. Leeks: These, being one of the most useful winter vegetables, should be planted in quantity. They require deeply worked and rich soil. Plant in rows 18 in apart and 9 in or 10 in in the rows. Draw a deep drill as for sowing peas, and along the drill strew some super and bonemeal. The plants should be of good size and be planted with a dibber, the latter being thrust in to its full length. The plants should be covered as deep as they will go without letting the soil into the crowns. At first let them in full length, then lift them to the height needed. This will straighten out the roots, which become doubled up when inserted. Press the dibber into the soil a few inches from the plant, with the handle sloped away from it; then bring the handle up to the plant, when the hole will be completely filled and the soil madefirm. By the time the plants have made some growth the ground will be getting weedy. Hoe it over, at the same time filling the drills. The soil that fills the drills will cover any weeds there may be between the plants, and save the tiresome labor of hoeing or pulling them out. Grown in this way a plot of ground will hold twice as many leeks as it would if they were in trenches, and quite as large leeks can be grown. Before hoeing strew some nitrate of soda along the drill, 1 oz to about 3 yards run.
Peas may be sown up to the middle of January, and French beans a fortnight later. Sow turnip, lettuce, radish, and onions for salading; also silver-beet, spinach, and red beet. Tomatoes: Keep side shoots from advancing ; nip them out as soon as seen. Top the main stems above the fifth or sixth bunch of fruit, according to the height of the supports. Spraying should be continued. As the weather has been very wet there will be considerable danger of blight-attacks, 'and the haulm should be kept practically covered with the bordeaux spray.
Potatoes : The same remarks apply as for tomatoes. The haulm is likely to be soft, and this condition lays them practicularly open to attacks of late blight. Onions are likely to be affected with mildew. Spraying should bo attended to, or, if found more convenient, dust them with a mixture of sulphur and sifted air-slaked burnt lino, two parts of sulphur to one of limo. Keep all ground well cultivated so as to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.
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Bibliographic details
Matamata Record, Volume III, Issue 114, 9 January 1919, Page 4
Word Count
830THE GARDEN. Matamata Record, Volume III, Issue 114, 9 January 1919, Page 4
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