THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

Matamata Record, Volume II, Issue 81, 9 May 1918, Page 4

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

(W. H. Taylor in Journal of Agriculture) In last month’s garden notes the effect of draining on soilfertility was referred to. There are other matters that have vital effect on the successful use of soil in the cultivation of plants. The soil should be in a comparatively fine state of division —according to the form of the roots of different plants. Some plants have strong coarse roots, others exceedingly small and fine ones. The surface soil should be brought to a state of fineness suitable to the plant’s habit. Thus, beans of any kind having a strong radicle and primary roots succeed in soil that might be too rough for carrots. Usually the size of the seed serves to indicate the degree of fineness of soil required. When a seed is planted in soil in which there is a sufficient amout of moisture it shortly begins to swell. When germination takes place a shoot consisting of a short piece of stem —the epicotyl, on top of which is a bud —goes upward to the surface. This is to form the above-ground portion of the future plant. At the same time another part is going down into the soil. This consists of a piece of stem known as the radicle, from the end of which proceeds the primary' root. The primary root goes vertically into the soil, and secondary roots branch out horizontally from it, these again branching, till, in the case of some plants, they form a network of roots. From the sides of these roots are projected numbers ef very fine roots termed hair roots.

It is through these hair roots that plants take up most of the water and other matter on which their growth depends. These roots being exceedingly fine, it is necessary that the soil be in a fine state so that the roots may find ready contact with the soilparticles. Also, as these fine roots are easily killed either by drought or excessive wetness of soil, it is necessary that the surface soil be kept well tilled and free drainage provided to prevent waterlogging. In waterlogged soil very few hair roots are formed. A plant may have sufficient feeding-roots to sustain it while the weather is damp and comparatively cool, but they may be quite unable to sustain the plant when increased heat from the sun causes loss by evaporation from the leaves, especially as at that time there will be less moisture in the soil and the feeding-roots too few to draw enough water from the soil-particles, though there might be an ample supply if the plant were properly furnished with roots.

A seeding plant takes no nourishment from the soil until hair roots are formed and the first rough leaf is above the soil. In the meantime the embryo plant is sustained by plant food stored in the seed. This points to the necessity of planting seed at a depth in accordance with its size, so that its top may reach the air in due time,and theiimportance — as in the case of small seeds —of a finely broken surface, so that the seedlings may easily break through. Not only should the surface soil be finely divided, it should be also moderately firm. In loosd soil the hair roots do not find ready contact with the soil-particles, consequently many of them may perish, and the plants make a feeble start. During the summer months, which, of course, is the time when most crops are grown, plants must necessarily draw most of their nourishment from the supply stored in the soil. Whatever amount of plant-food may be in the soil it will not be available unless there is a sufficiency of moisture. If the soil is deep and in proper condition water stored in the soil is drawn to the surface by the phenomenon known as “capillarity ” as the soil in that position becomes dry. While the surface soil is fully charged with water there is no capillary action ; but as the top layer of soil [loses its moisture .it draws up a fresh supply from the lower strata of soil, provided suitable conditions exist. To ensure capillarity the soil must be well broken up, so that the soil-particles may hold a proper amount of moisture, and also to ensure a continuity of soil-particles one with another. Lumpy soil does not hold a proper complement of water, and it also militates against capillary action. Similarly, anything of a dry or too loose character, such as long stable manure, woodystemmed weeds, or lupins dug into the ground during the late spring or summer months, would be unfavourable to capillarity and, tend to make the soil dry. Such material should be turned under during the rainy season, as abundant moisture is required to ensurd rapid decay. When this is not convenient the ground should not be cropped until the vegetable matter has rotted down to some extent.

Soil of a sandy character or that which is light and naturally dry is benefited by cow-manure or the cleanings of pigsties. Both are harmful on stiff soil, as they bind it more and exclude air. Stable or farmyard manure in a littery condition is best for stiff soil, the straw-particles tending to keep it open. The manure should not be . forked into the trenches; it should be worked in so that it intermixes with the soil. The same manures when in the state known as “fat” are good for light and medium-class land. Animal manures decay slowly, and the whole of the plant-food they contain does not become available during the year it is applied ; some of it remains in the soil till the second year. Soil freshly manured in this manner should be used for such crops as peas, beans, cabbages, broccoli, &c., and the next season for carrots, parsnips, and beet in particular, while turnips also may be grown. No additional manure will be required for either of these crops if the manuring was liberal in the previous year. The stumps of cabbages and kindred plants should not be dug into the soil. They form harbours for wireworms, slugs, and other insect pests which shelter in the hollow stems when the centres have decayed. They may be placed in the bottom of trenched soil where they will be beyond the reach of insects, or mixed with general rubbish in a heap. A sprinkle of lime on the heap occasionally will keep insects away, and also prevent the growth of fungoid blights. If the heap is turned over now and again it will assist decay, and when it is wheeled on to the the garden the woody stems can be thrown aside, dried and burned. If more attention were paid to such matters, which really are not troublesome, there would be less trouble with garden pests.

VEGETABLE —CULTURE.. CURRENT WORK. In the warmer parts of the Dominion a small sowing of Snowball turnip may now be made. If sown at once and not too thickly the roots will develop. In the same districts cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, and onion seeds may be put in. It has been found that cabbage seed put in at the end of May produces heads for use by the of October. In other localities the first week in April is as late as is safe. Peas: —In most districts it is customary to sow peas about the middle of May. In the warm parts of the North a fairly heavy sowing should be made. In those parts the early crops are the best, and it is impossible to get them long after the New Year, therefore every advantage should be taken of the season when they do succeed. In the coldest localities autumn sowing is not attended by much advantage.' In places where the climate is between the two extremes autumn-sown crops do well enough to make their sowing worth while. Rhubarb : —The winter variety should now be in use. The stools should not be pulled bare ; always leave some young stalks growing. It is hardly worth while to plant the winter variety now, as it would not give any stalks during the coming winter, and it is better to wait till spring or early summer and then sow seeds. Summer rhubarb; It is stated by some writers that rhubarb is practically evergreen in the Auckland district. I have no doubt that this is caused by the stalks being pulled too late in the season. The same persistency has been noticed in the warmer parts of Hawke’s Bay, but it is rectified by reasonable treatment, and the tops die down in the proper manner. The proper time to use rhubarb is the early part of the season, before tree-fruits come in. When these are available the use of rhubarb should cease. This is the only way to get good stalks in spring. Growers for market were formerly accustomed to pull throughout January, but the best growers now cease pulling at the end of December. The growth made afterwards goes to develop crowns. Planting time begins early in July, and continues till the middle of August, according to the district. Just as the crowns are beginning to move is the time to plant. Ground for new beds should be got ready as soon as possible. The deeper the soil is worked the better for the crop. Rhubarb cannot be overmanured; it requires a liberal supply. It is useless to plant it in poor or very dry soil. Asparagus; The tops are now dead; cut them down level with the soil. The tops should be burned. A liberal dressing of manure should be placed on the bed, leaving it exposed for the present. If the plants are in beds rake soil off so as to expose the crowns before putting the manure on. The soil should not be returned until spring. Seakale: Clear away the old 1 leaves. Lightly fork the soil over, and give a good dusting of lime over soil and crowns.