THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

Matamata Record, Volume II, Issue 63, 3 January 1918, Page 1

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

(W. H. Taylor in Journal of Agriculture) During the first half of January the garden-cultivator should plant broccoli of mid-season and late varieties. The broccoli are important, as they supply the socalled cauliflowers for winter and early spring use. As they fill the gap between the autumn and spring cauliflowers several sorts should be planted. Cauliflowers of Autumn Giant type planted at the same time will come into use in April and May, and the first broccoli toward the end of May or early June —that is, presuming an early variety has been already planted. Plant also savoys, cabbages, and varieties of kale. With regard to the kales, they are not suitable for growing except in the cooler parts of the" Dominion. They require the influence of frost to make them tender. Another sowing of peas may be made, except in the warmer parts where peas only succeed early in the season. French beans may be sown in all places, also turnips, lettuce, and radish. Silver-beet should be sown towards the end of the month, or it may be left till February, which in most parts will be in time to secure good winter crops.

Leeks. —'The most extensive planting of leeks should be made at this time. Planted early in January the digging can commence iu May, by which time they will be a fair size, Growth becomes more rapid as the weather becomes cooler. The plants increase in size till the middle of September, then they stand more or less without growth preparatory to going to seed. It may be reckoned that this planting will provide leeks for use during a period of five months, and it can thus be considered one of the ‘most valuable crops of the year. Many people plant only few leeks because they think they must be planted in trenches which take up a lot of room. That system of planting has been ont of date for many years. Plant in rows from 15in to 18in apart, the former distance in really good soil. Leeks are gross feeders, and if the soil has been liberally treated with stable manure so much the better. To plant, draw a drill as though peas were to be sown, and strew some bonedust and superphosphate along the drill —just enough to show plainly. Set the plants about 9in apart in the drills. Use a good dibber made from a spade handle; thrust it full length into the ground, and give a circular motion to enlarge the hole at the top. Take a plant, which should have a stem 6 in or 1 more long, and let it down as far as it will go into the hole; now pull it up a few inches so as to straighten the roots ; then thrust the dibber into the soil a few inches from the plant with the point slanting towards the hole, and bring the handle over against the plant, closing up the hole and fixing the plant firmly. Only the stem of the plant must be buried ; the soil must not enter the heart of the plant. Do not cut the tops off the leaves and do not cut the roots. After the plants have started to grow give a dressing of nitrate of soda strewn along the drills. One ounce will be suffir cient for about 4 yards of drill. When weeds appear the ground should be hoed over. At this time draw in soil to fill the drills, covering weeds in them without hoeing them out. If extra-fine leeks are wanted they may later on be moulded up, first enveloping each leek in a wrapping of paper. Celery—lt is quite useless to try to grow celery in dry soil. If the soil is naturally good vegetable growing ground, celery will do without watering after it has got a good start, otherwise it must have abundance of water. Celeryrust, which shows as small rustcolored dots on the leaves, is very destructive. It cannot be cured once it gets a good hold, but if caught in the early stages spraying with bordeaux will stop it. Scientists say that in the first instance of an outbreak of the disease it is communicated by the seed and in no other way; further, that the spores of the disease die in two years. Therefore if two-year-old seed be used there will be no disease. This is worth remembering for future guidance. The latest; planting should be

made during January. Advanced crops should be moulded up for blanching. Moulding up is best done by two persons; one holds the heads together while the other throws in enough soil to hold them in place. Then each take a spade and work on opposite sides of the row. When there is only one pair of hands it is best to tie the heads together, either with a strand of raphia, or, better, by taking strips of paper cut 6in wide, winding these around the heads and loosely tying them. Whatever is done the stalks must be kept straight and pressed firmly together, so as to keep the soil out of the hearts of the plants. Soil should be pressed very firmly around the base of the heads so as to prevent sinking after the ridge is made up, as if that occurred it would bend the upper portion of the heads and cause pithy stalks. Onions —In places where onionmildew is prevalent it will be wise to spray the crops before the disease appears. My own experience is that if the disease gets a firm hold before spraying it is best to leave the plants without spraying, for in such cases it does considerable harm. Spraying is effectual if applied as a preventive before the attack. I found 2-2-40 bordeaux the safest strength. Resin-soda solution should be added as an adhesive, as without it the bordeaux is washed off by the first fall of rain. To make resin sticker dissolve 11b washing-soda in 2 gallons of boiling water, add 1 resin crushed to a powder, and boil till thoroughly dissolved. One gallon of the solution should be added to 40 gallons of bordeaux. Tomatoes. —Side shoots should be pinched off as soon as they show. Refrain from watering except where the soil is absolutely dry; also refrain from giving liquid manure except where the soil is very poor. It may be that no harm would result from the application of water and liquid manures, but there is considerable risk of setting up disease-attacks, and in any case such help is rarely required. Cultivation. —Keep the surface soil loose between the growing crops. Frequent disturbances of the soil, besides conserving moisture, and bestowing other benefits, is the surest method of keeping in check insect pests, such as woodlice, ants, crickets, etc. •