A MARCH THROUGH INDIA.

Lyttelton Times, Volume LVI, Issue 6494, 20 December 1881, Page 3

A MARCH THROUGH INDIA.

{Concluded.)

At tho next camp there was no shooting ;•> be had, so we looked about for something io do. A little way off was .in old and strunglooking fort, which had no doubt been used during tho mutiny. To this several of us wont in order to examine a real Indian mud fort.

Tho fort was surrounded by a high loopholed wall, between which and fho fort itself was what had once boon a brood ditch, but, having been filled in, was now flat ground, tho whole of which was defended by cross and flanking fire from the walls. Entering through the only gate in the outer wall, directed on to it we found inside several old gun*, and crossing the fliled-in ditch, wo arrived at a largo and imposing doorway, haring massive iron-studded doors which opened inwards; above were coats of arms, and other devices of native chiefs; in front of this doorway paced a sentry, hia clothing tho lightest, his arms a bright and sharp tulwar, a pistol and a matchlock. On our attempting to enter we were brought up sharply by the eentry, who would not allow us in on any account. Whilst we were deliberating as to what coarse to pursue, and thinking some big swell must live here, the colonel arrived ; from him we learnt that tho Keeealder of the district lived here, end that he was going to call on him, and at tho same time inspect the fort; so wo followed in his train. Passing a guard room, where several more matchlocks, tulwars, and uistols were hanging against tho wall, wc found ourselves in a large open square, tho dwelling houses being arranged all round tho sides; in the centre was a large raised platform, from which the Kessaldar is wont to deal out justice every morning. As soon as our arrival had been announced, the Kessaldar appeared. I have never seen handsomer or more stately man. He recsived us, or rather the Colonel (I rather fancy he took us for his retainers), with a grace that many a Lord Chamberlain might envy. He seated himself on a chair in the centre of the platform, having previously, with the greatest courtesy, placed tho colonel on hia right hand, the senior major on bis left; to them was then handed the betel nut —which I imagine is the same kind of ceremony as “a drink ” with us—and a lively conversation ensued. Now neither of our senior officers was a very great linguist, so the Kessaldar had the conversation mostly his own way, though, from frequent ejaculations from our side of the house, such as “ Ah, just so!” “ Jaldi, jaldi “ Bless my soul, yes! ” “Of course!” “Achcha! ” “ Thanks very much! ” &c„ we saw that they were not going to give up the game altogether. I afterwards learnt that he was asking after the health of the Queen, and hoping that affairs in England (and no doubt he meant Ireland as well) were flourishing, I fancy, however, that ho was quite satisfied, as he offered them lots of betel nut with ineffable grace. When the conversation began to flag, the Colonel introduced us; the Kessaldar at once came down from his “ throne" and insisted upon shaking hands with us all, and taking betel nut with each individually; it was perhaps lucky for him it was not “ drink.” Alter showing us round the whole fort, he conducted us to the gate, where he took his leave, requesting permission to visit ns at our camp; a request that was met with an invitation to dinner, which, however, he declined, saying he would come when dinner was over; anc. soon after dinner ho presented himself, accompanied by the sentry we had noticed at the fort. Ho had arrayed himself for the occasion in a gorgeous costume, and, after bowing to each of ua, he seated himself on the right of the colonel; he refused all offers to drink or smoke, but made a long and flowery speech (of which we understood very little) ; we, however, applauded vigorously whenever he stopped and looked round. Ton see, several of os had attended public dinners, and so knew when to give thesignal to cheer—a signal that was promptly responded to. We then made him a speech, which I hope he uederefood ; nf.-er which, he shook hands with us all round and dejtarted, followed by his trusty sentry, who, wenoticed, hadr.otgot his greatcoat on although it was a chilly night. I think we all agreed that we had never seen so well-bred, courteous, or stately a man as the Kessaldar, and can only hope that he was as impressed with us as we were with him. The next entry I see is “Cur First Pigsticking,” and I think it is worth recording. When wo arrived in camp the headman informed informed us that a few miles from the village dor a by there were plenty of pigs, and that many “ Europe people ” came there to kill the wild boar. C'ur excitement was intense. Remember, it was our first essay at pigsticking. So a large number of beaters having been collected, and scarcely giving ourselves time for breakfast, wo started, accompanied this lime by every dog we could find in camp (indeed, a collection of curs!). When wo arrived at the place where the pigs were supposed ! o be, we posted ourselves as advantageously as possible, and awaited the sound of the advance of the beaters with breathless anxiety. At last tho signal was given, and everyone was on the alert to gain his first spear. Tho beaters advanced — nothing was heard; kept advancing—still nothing. Despondency began to set in. Suddenly a grunt was heard. I cannot describe the excitement. The beaters gradually approached—still nothing appeared; but, when they had nearly beat up to us, there suddenly dashed out of the covert a small pig about two months old. Oh, the consternation !—no one knew what to do. Mill, it evidently was a pig, so after him! And after him wo went, helter-skelter, everybody trying to spear that little wee piggy; but he escaped us all! Hero a fellow, making a violent dig at the porker, stuck his spear into the ground, and was carried clean out of his saddle. Then two fellows, bent on taking “ first spear,” cannoned, and found themselves sitting on tho ground abusing each other like pickpockets. Never did pig give greater sport, I am sure, doubling in and out, causing many spills. He avoided all trie spears, to fall at last a victim to tho “ bobbery psob.” who broke him up before ue could interfere. Thus ended our first pigstick, a most exciting quarter of an hour; and, although we have had many real good runs since, 1 fancy few of us will forget o' * first, pig. In camp that night, over the “ in,-!) leap,” we all agreed (hut there *as no spori. like pig sticking, and O’Riien declared (.Km. if Smith had net fen-eked him ov ri” list careless wav, ho weuM have »p'!**•, d ib- finest pig iu India, begorra! A >i.-n-.n f- '- bed ! Tho clay e.tvr u,e great p'g-rti.king cmtwmp was pud-'d in h vlau.* wh ch aff-eded no sport, so wo decided u> poiO. S.acy of our ponies had nev- t played pole, bur-we all turned out for (he game, «ud endeavoured to fancy ourselves tst. Hurhngham. The ground was not-quit aso good, perhaps, as at that club; but what it 1,-cXed iu quality if made up iu quantity, being win* feu square miles or so in extent ; end although the audience was not so select, still it. whs quite as largo and much more enthusiastic, as the whole of tho native population msaemblecli to ace tho fun. I fancy they thought, that somebody or something was to be killed, as they imagine that Knghshmcu only come to India for tho sake of slaughter of some kind '■ Tho ground was so rough that, many were the spills that day, and whenever a man or -a horse came to grief loud were tho cheers—they thought that the killing time had arrived ! ytill wo managed to have a c-.pitut game, and when, after it was all ovo l *, wc throw (he ball into the crowd, (ho scrambling and fighting for it was so great that I have no doubr. tho lucky possessor is still looked upon with envy. It must be borne in mind that no British regiment had been seen iu f-he>:e t arts since tho mutiny, so naturally tho curiosity wai very great. Two or three days later wc arrived d

Ohatapur, a large native t.’wn where paper i ’ manufactured extensively. Hero resides i l . young and powerful rajah, who was thought sullloienUy great to bo made, at the late dur bar, K.0.d.1. or something of that kind. He is only ten years old, ao his mother-holds the reins of Government. TJesidet many elephants and horses with i ink at.d purple {idle, he pcssossea it largo and hand soma palace, which we tt!l went to inpe.t. I; was n grand bu'lding, ns Indian building* «•>, haring a largo courtrare! in front of it and a guard at the goto; the guard wore oolhiug but a waist cloth, and

w- re armed with tulwarr and matchlocks. Perhaps if they had known that we were coming they might have put on their Sunday clothe* 5 being a week day they certainly had not got them on. In a square outside the palace was the Rajah's battery of artillery ! tijjht guns of different sorts and biz 'b, the largest being a brass 9-pounder, the smallest apparently a rifle barrel fixed into a log of wood. This last was fired every day at 12 noon—quite civilised, you see! We arrived about that time, and so had the pleasure of seeing the performance. A large crowd of natives collected to witness it, and a few minutes before the hour a gunner—dressed like the guard, only more so—appeared with, a long rod of iron heated at one end. As the gong at the palace gate struck 12 he advanced with much swagger (and great caution), and, turning his head away, made several ‘dabs” with hi* long pole at the touch-hole; eventually he hit off the right spot, and the “ cannon ” wont off with a report lihe a pearifle. Those of the populace who had not run away or fallen down now cheered lurtily, and the gunner walked round his piece, and wiped it out with as much pride as the best horse artillery man could have done at Aidershot if the "duke” was looking on. Wo were glad to leave this place, as Cawnporo was close by, and we wanted once more to be amongst civilised people, and we had had enough of jungle for a time. On Jan. 30 we marched into Cawnporo. The big drummer was so elated at the fact that ho smashed in the head of his drum. Ho quickly reversed it, and used the other side, but, so gr->nd was his enthusiasm, that he smashed that in too as we were marching on to the ground ! It was lucky this bad not happened before, as here we easily replaced them. What we should have done a few days previously I do not know, for no one, who has not been on a march, knows what the band and the drums and fifes are when plodding along day after day.

At Cawnporo ended our j ung'.e life ; all was plain sailing now—good broad roads ths whole of the way, part of it on the Grand Trunk Road. So hero wo dismissed oar elephants, including “ Bobbery Wallah,” replacing them by hackeries, drawn by four or five sometimes even six bullocks. We haif-.i here for two days, in order to make the Ti--ce?sarv change of transport, and to fake in fresh supplies. I need cot describe tho place • 1 think it has been done graphically and well many times, but our interest in it was very great, as our regiment had played a prominent part in avenging Nana’s treachery. Everyone has read of “ Wheeler’s Entrenchment,” now marked oat by stone?, each with W. on it, the graceful act of H.R.H. the Prince of Wales daring his visit to India, but to see it is another thing; and then to follow down the gully, the very path the garrison took, to the Massacre Ghat; to stand there and imagine the scene acted over again-, from thence to the “ Well ” where so many of our fellow countrymen and women lie, covered in now and surrounded by a carved wall, a beautiful monument in the centre; to see on the left hand the graves of those who fell in avenging the act; on the right, the mounds which covered the pieces of the massacred, collected when the garden was captured. Yes, indeed, it is a different thing and makes one’s blood boil to see it all.

From Cawnpore we took a trip to Lucknow (two hours by tram) seeing there place# of still greater inti rest for us wnose regiment had taken part in the relief. We saw the “residency” with scare dy a square foot #E its walla that is cot marked by bullets, the celebrated “ Baillie Guard Gate,” the “ Kaiser Bagh,” “ Sectmdati Bagh,” where 2000 of the rebels met the fate they richly deser red, and all the places where so many brave deeds had. been done, gome of our older fellows who were at the relief pointing out to us where this or that thing had occurred. Certainly Lucknow is a far pleasanter place to visit than Cawnpore. Well, having replenished our stores, we again set off on our journey. Easy travelling now though dusty along tr.e Grand Trunk Hoad. Tnere was plenty of shooting still, though not so varied as when wo were passing through the jungle. Good enough, however, to give us plenty to do, and to keep the larder filled. Wo pay a passing visit to Agra, and see there that wonder of the world the “Taj Mahalto Delhi, where we look with wonder on the Cashmere Gate, and wonder how many of the gallant bend who blew in the doors cculd possibly have escaped ; pass by the grand old fort of Alyghur, and so on to Meerut, where we halt to replenish for the last time our stores, and to change our wearied transport animals; from thence to Saharunpore, which is the nearest railway station to Chskrata. The Government remount stables are here —almost worth » journey from England to see ; several hundreds of horses, imported from all parts of the world, principally from Australia, in every stage —from the rough animal lately landed at Calcutta, tothe beautifully gr ’cured and handsome charger. Any artillery or cavalry ctiioer can purchase a ctisrger here at a fixed price (the former £6O, the latter £SO), on conditions that he dees not sell it again esccp: to the Bemouat Committee. Fiom Saharunpore we trudge gaily on through tho meat beautiful and fertile country, each hour bringing us nearer our goal. Wo can see the hills, with the snow capped mountains in the distance; the shooting again becomes more varied, the country being less frequented, and our camps are no* pitched by the side or beautiful rivers where the fishing is excellent; many a mahaecr now graces the mess table. We on one occasion aho arranged a tiger hunt, which, however, was not successful and so, crossing the river Jumna by a splendid suspension bridge, we arrived at Eklsi—the foot of the bills—two days’ march, or rather climb to Chakrsta. Taking breath, as it were, here, we commenced the ascent by those curious lisgig roads that arc necessary in ascending these almost inaccessible mountains—the high cliffs on one side, with the road winding away above; tho precipice on the other. Turning tho last corner, Ohakrata bursts upon us. What a wonderful place! the barracks and houses built, either on the top of the different hills, or else places cut in their sides—and what a magnificent view i Mountain upon mountain, vale after vof a I colours—from the green of the m'-ir ones to the deep blue of tho v ore d : -- ‘ . nes, having for a bscktro d ; ; - Snows;” Ci'i anything b' m ’ ' ini' Then the trees! R'"tidede ’■ » girth of 15ft round the (ten , - •■ u • »* Ktiglish oaks, one mass of on;. ? u > •- m ; tho fern*, too—every fern that - vin hothouses at home pro-vine b . v «.ii: m «b<* greatest profusion ; the valleys me ui-.ss of maidenhair and others quits beuitsful; the parti'coloured birds amt buUcrtli-s; the wonderful tbwors, the green gross, t:.o keen, bracing air—all so different to the parched and arid plains we had just left. Ad these made us feel as if our youth hud returned, and that India was the most wondcriul hind in world. Having seen our mou into their barracks, and given our tents—our homes for so long—into store, wo seek our own houses, glad. 1 think for the most part, that our journey is ended and teat at hist we are at “home.” Hera I cloea my diary, with a mr.h, partly of relief partly of regret—regret for tho Hie in tho open air, the constant exercise, tho add sport, the cheery nights in cump relief that one need not got up at. 2 a.m. every morning now, and that ono can put one’s hand on anything that is required without turning ones bullock trunk upside down ; and I think wo ail agree that we are greatly indebted to that otUcial who, by his happy thought, procured us a “ March through India.’ 1 Lb DBAQOtf Botjqe.