Work in the Garden

Lake County Mail, Issue 47, 28 April 1948, Page 7

Work in the Garden

VEGETABLES UNDER TEST The summer and autumn seasons this year have not been the best for many vegetables, which prefer cooler temperatures and a more equitable distribution of rainfall. The true gardener is never unduly perturbed by bad seasons, be they caused by drought or frost. He immediately takes stock of the position and plans what is best to be done to make up the leeway.

Even the half-hearted gardener, who probably gave up in the summer, still has an opportunity to provide some crops for the early spring and to improve his winter crops. In most parts of New Zealand long periods of low temperature do not occur until after mid-winter. Consequently there is considerable growth during April and May, and even June. This may not be particularly noticeable; nevertheless, it is sufficient thoroughly to establish plants set for spring use, and also further the development of winter crops, with which gardeners in warmer districts are much more successful with some crops than in the summer.

It is at this season that drainage and soil condition become extremely important. If the ground becomes waterlogged it will become cold and will not warm up again until it dries out in October. Waterlogged conditions exclude air from the soil, destroying the tilth and also the beneficial bacteria.

Nitrogen to the Rescue The lay of the land is important. It is useless to try to grow winter vegetables in shady corners. These should be used for summer crops. As the days become shorter and temperatures lower, the soil organisms become less active and plants may become short of readilyavailable plant-food, particularly nitrogen. They respond readily to small applications of nitrogenous fertilisers. Do not apply heavy dressings. I have frequently mentioned the controlling of plant growth by regular cultivation and the application of nitrogenous fertilisers to stimulate growth. Phosphates have been recommended to assist in the development of a good root system and the maturing of crops. Generally plants require a * wellbalanced diet and, should one or other of the two major plant foods be in short supply, they become either stunted or over “ lush,” as the ease may be. Change-over in Rotation

In February I discussed the first stages in the change-over from this year’s rotation to that desired for next season. Plot No. 1 contained potatoes last season and was well manured. Next season it will contain root crops, which prefer a well-conditioned soil that was manured for a previous crop. Carrots and beetroot were sown here in February for spring use, and onions for use from November onwards were sowm in March. In milder districts these may still be sown if this has not already been done. Results depend on the plants becoming established before the ground becomes really cold; they will then come away in the spring and give a useful early crop. Turnips of the Golden Ball variety may also be sown. Plot No. 2, which was planted last season in root crops, will still contain main crops of parsnips, carrot, beet and perhaps swedes for winter use. These should be cleaned up and the surface hoed; it is much too early to lift them. Main crop onions are usually lifted in February but late-sown crops may be maturing now; these should be pulled and ripened off as soon as possible. One section of this ground will be required for the first batch of spring cabbage, to be planted out this month or early in May, The remainder of the plot now clear of earlier crops may be sown with a green manure crop of oats or barley. ,

If the ground is heavy the cabbage plants are better planted on ridges. It will be an advantage if some wellrotted manure is available to dig in for this crop.

By J. W. Goodwin, N.D.H., N.Z., F.R.H.S., Massey Agricultural College.

Sprouts and Celery No. 3. plot was well manured and limed last spring for the growing of cabbages, etc. It now contains maturing crops of savoys, broccoli, Brussels sprouts and kale. Cultivation around these plants should be confined to the middle of the rows and should not be too deep, as they all have surface roots. Sprouts may have their side leaves removed but the top leaves will continue to grow. The sprouts which form on the axils of the side leaves will be developing now. Occasionally this plant will make massive foliage but firm “ buttons ” fail to develop. This is usually a result of too much nitrogen and insufficient phosphate, and a light dressing of ioz per square yard of superphosphate will usually do the trick. Always cut the buttons before they commence to open or turn yellow, as they rapidly lose flavour after reaching maturity.

Celery, celeriac and leeks were also in this section of the rotation. The first-mentioned crop may have suffered this season if water were not available. It requires good growing conditions right through if it is to be successful. The crop for autumn use is the golden self-blanching variety. If planted before Christmas it may be almost finished now. The main winter crop requires “ blanching.” The short stalks and side-shoots should be cleaned off, and brown or waterproof paper may be wrapped round the plants and tied with string. Alternatively, soil may be drawn up on either side to form a ridge, but it must not be allowed to enter into the centre of the plant. For a small crop I prefer to use the brown paper and ridge the soil up round the base. Where the plants are growing in double rows the best method is to place 12in x lin planks close along each side and filll in around the plants with straw. The straw may not be necessary if the plants are fairly thick.

Claims of Celhriac Celeriac is grown for the roots, which may be used for salad and soups or cooked like other root crops. It is certainly much easier to grow than celery and provides a welcome change. The soil will now have filled in around leek plants, and more may be drawn up under the leaves during cultivation. This will give a greater length of blanched stem in this valuable and dependable winter crop.

Of the new season’s rotation we recommended sowing broad beans and peas in March. There is still time to sow these in all but the coldest districts. They follow last season’s early cabbage in the rotation. '

Plot No. 4 was used last season for peas, beans, silver beet, lettuce and spinach. The last of the peas and French beans may be cropping now, also successive crops of lettuce and spinach. Sowings may still be made of prickly-seeded or winter spinach and lettuce either in this plot or advanced to plot No. 3. The soil should be in good condition and, if heavy, should be raised in beds.

Now, in the normal course of events this plot will be used for potatoes next season, and all ground vacant in the autumn could be sown in green manure crops. The alternative method I have discussed is the use of five plots, No. 5 being used for small fruits or other short-term crops, and then being replanted into plot No. 4, whilst potatoes go to plot No. 5. If it is intended to plant No. 4 plot with short-term crops this year, it will be necessary to make sowings of lettuce, spinach and silver beet in plot 3.