Work in the Garden

Lake County Mail, Issue 45, 14 April 1948, Page 7

Work in the Garden

By J. W. Goodwin, N.Z., F.R.H.S., Massey Agricultural College,

FOE, LAWNS LESS FORLOEN Last week we reached a stage

where the ground had been thoroughly prepared and a firm and fine seed bed was ready for sowing down a lawn in autumn. Now

in some areas the soil may be still dust-dry, and it would be wise to

Filling the Bare Patches

wait for rain before sowing. Where the ground is good and has been cultivated throughout the summer it win be found to be reasonably

moist below, and may be'sown now. As mentioned last week, Chewing’s Fescue and Brown Top are the two best lawn grasses and should be used at the rate of one ounce per square yard. Eye grass is still used sometimes, mainly because it establishes quickly, but its merits were discussed last week. However, there is considerable merit in the use of Certified Italian ryegrass, which establishes quickly and acts as a nurse plant to fine grasses and then dies out after the second year. Chewing’s Fescue two parts and Brown Top one part are the usual proportions. In very dry districts the fescue may be increased to a proportion of 4 or 6 to one. Italian rye, if used, should be at the rate of 11b to 251b or 301b of the fine seeds. Poa Pratensis is sometimes added on dry soils whilst Poa Trivialis and P. Nemorosa may be used for shady lawns. The best method to ensure that seed is sown evenly is to divide the area into strips, from 4 to 6 feet.wide, with the garden line and to sow each strip with the required amount of seed. There may be even better results if the seed is halved and one lot sown lengthwise and the second crosswise over the area.

Seed must be fresh to ensure a good germination—buy certified seed from a reliable seedsman.

If the soil is dry, birds will dustbath, disturbing the seed bed. Us* small mirrors hanging on sticks or other contraptions to scare them.

The Autumn Overhaul Few people realise just how much plant food is taken from the land by the frequent mowing that a lawn receives. Furthermore, none of this is returned to the land, as in the case with

grazing animals. Lawns must have some fertiliser. Again, there may be •an odd bare patch to be refurnished or perhaps an old lawn has become somewhat turf-bound. The best method is to adopt a regular routine, keep the turf in good condition, and avoid deterioration and perhaps re-laying.

Weed destruction is the first operation, and many people may have already carried this out by using hormone week-killers during the summer., I have had a question on the use of Arsenic Pentoxide for this purpose. First let me warn intending users that

this material is corrosive and must be used with care. Eubber gloves are necessary to protect the hands. It will also brown the lawn, which will recover in about three weeks, if care is taken in application. You may give an overdose of hormone weed-killer with little harm, but not so with arsenic pentoxide.

Once the weeds have been removed,

the lawn becomes bare in patches and these will soon produce more weeds. The next operation is, after mowing

the lawn closely, to scarify the surface both of the bare patches and the remainder of the lawn. The best method is to use a sharp rake or close-tined dragfork which has been sharpened to a keen edge on the front (side facing the handle) and tapering to a sharp point. Only the best steel tools will be suitable; others will not take an edge. Commence from one end of the lawn and, working backwards, draw the rake towards you, cutting about one inch deep. Keep the rake lines parallel throughout even if it is necessary to draw the rake forward several times to gain the required depth. The result will be a series of small drills about three-quarters of an inch deep. The rough material raked out should be taken off as work proceeds. An application of loz per square yard of the Sulphate of Ammonia and 2oz superphosphate (one mix) should be made, broadcasting it evenly over the surface. Where the sward is thin or patchy it would be advisable to make a light sowing of seed.

Side-track Weed Seeds The final operation is top-dressing with soil. This must not be heavy, else the seed and grass will be buried too deeply. Three or four barrows-full per 100 square yards would be about the right amounts, according to the degree of uneveness or bareness.

If deeper depressions are to be filled these -should be attended to before scarifying. There are two methods, the first by filling, the second, where good turf exists, by lifting and building up. In the .first method the hollow should be well scarified and filled with soil. This should be heeled in and graded and regraded until a firm and fine seedbed is made. In the second method, the turf should be well watered if not already wet. A cut with the vergecutter (half-moon blade with handle used for cutting edges) should be made down the centre of the depression. Cross cuts should be made one foot apart and the turf rolled back on either side of the first cut. Sufficient soil should then be filled in and thoroughly firmed to bring the turf, when replaced, a little above the desired level. Relay the turf, beating it down with the back of the spade or a turf beater and add sufficient soil to fill any spaces between the turfs.