«Work in the Garden »

Lake County Mail, Issue 37, 18 February 1948, Page 7

«Work in the Garden »

FLOWER GARDEN MISCELLANY Assist your plants to prolong their flowering display. The major plant function is not to provide massed, colourful displays for your benefit and mine; but to mature seed and ensure the survival of the species. Once the seed is set, the plant just does not care “ two hoots ” whether it produces more flowers or not. Furthermore, the development of the seed is the most exhausting of all plant activities. An embryo plant is formed and large reserves of energy are stored up in each seed to support it until roots and green leaves are formed in the spring. A plant which has set seed has gaihed its objective and is very often too exhausted to bear any more flowers. This is the main reason why we remove fading flower heads. The plant is denied the satisfaction of maturing seed and energy which would be used for this purpose is diverted to produce new growth. This is particularly so with antirrhinums, sweet peas and dahlias, particularly the dwarf budding types, which in good soil may be kept in flower until frosts cut them back. Many plants, particularly the bulbs and numerous herbaceous perennials and shrubs, produce only one crop of flower: but here again it is beneficial to remove the fading flower heads. The energy which would be expended in maturing seed is retained to help build up growth' or bulbs for next season’s display. ‘"' i There are, however, a considerable number of plants, mainly hybrids, which are sterile and do not set seeds. The removal of spent flowers in these cases, besides making the plants tidy, will also make room for, and admit light to other growths developing at the base. Other plants do not set much seed until towards the end of the season, particularly fibrous-rooted begonia, salvia and petunias. This is particularly so if soil conditions are good. Plants grown for their effective foliage should'' not be permitted to flower, as the foliage will soon lose its bright colouring as in the cases of variegated and tricolour “ geraniums,” iresine and .pyrethrum aureum. Foliage geraniums and pyrethrum may be allowed to flower later in the season, however, when their flowers may add variety to the beds. Pyrethrum, carnations and other plants, which,., carry their flowers well above the foliage, ..may -be trimmed' back with- the hedge shears. Cut spent or unwanted top . growth away. on‘a. level with the tips of the basal ■' leaves, leaving a neat, rounded and tidy plant. Use a knife or secateurs for antirrhinums, cutting below ’ the bottom' seed capsule when the top flower opens. Keep the Noe Going Keep 'the hoe going throughout the garden., There may not be many weeds but each shower will encourage a few, particularly Black Nightshade. Watch this weed. The seed in the black currant-like fruits is freely borne and always grows. A light mulch of soil on the surface aids the penetration of rain or artificial watering, conserves moisture and keeps the soil cool round the plant roots. Never hoe deeply at this time of the year. This will damage the surface roots, which develop on many plants as they reach the flowering stage and will also cause excessive drying out. When planning our plantings we selected plants with long flowering periods, or a combination of several to give a succession of bloom in the more prominent beds. No one will deny, however, that we should grow many of the others. Their flowering period may be short, but the intensity of colour and mass of flowers is breath-taking. These subjects which we planted in secondary beds and mixed borders will now beoast Gieir best. Plans must be made to rep 1 ace them. A further planting of the nuicker-growing subjects may b p "’anted to give autumn co’our, i.e. nomesia, French marigolds, phlox drum-

By J. W. Goodwin, N.D.H., N.Z., F.R.H.S., Massey Agricultural College,

mondii. Alternatively, we may prepare the ground to plant the bulbs, or, if the soil is well drained and the border sunny, it may well be used for winthrflowering bedding plants. Planting Biennials Anemones may be planted now, also Iceland poppies, calendulas and winterflowering pansies. If the weather be dry, water regularly until these plants are well established. Seeds of the last three may be sown now, to be' planted out later for spring display. In districts where only mild frosts are experienced, seed may now be sown of cineraria, primular malacoides and sehiyanthus, to be planted out later on in Avell-drained friable soil in sheltered corners. Mysotis, sweet william, cynoglossum polyanthus and wall flowers for planting out in April and early May will now be pricked out in boxes or lined out in the reserve garden. If this has not been done it is rather late to sow seed and perhaps best to purchase plants later on. Biennials and perennials which may have been raised in the early summer will soon be ready for their permanent home. Foxgloves and Canterbury bells belong to the first class. These, if planted out early in the autumn, will flower well next spring and then die. If sown in the early spring these subjects would not flower the same year. They require two growing seasons, and that is why they are called biennials. Biennials are best sown about the end of December or the first week in January, and will flower during the following November or December. Many perennials will flower in their first season from, seed if sown in the early spring. However, that is a busy time, and the usual procedure is to sow them during October and November when the spring rush is over. They may then become well established in the border before winter sets in. Process of Layering 'Carnations, except the bedding types planted out in November, will have fiiiished flowering and sturdy growths now developed at the base will be ready for layering this month. This is quite a simple operation.' Four or five leaves may be removed from the base. Cut iri just below a node (joint) to half-way, split, the node lengthwise and extend the cut up the centre of the stein for about three-quarters of ■an inch; The soil should be prepared beforehand, by mixing sand and leaf mould' or compost with'.the-existing soil; the first to ensure- good drainage, the second to . improve the' texture of the soil and iim prove; its water-holding capacity. Secure the layer with- a peg made from wire of wood and cover with 1$ to 2 inches ■ oii compost. If the .shoot is raised to a more, vertical position, before firming ‘the soil, this will ensure that the cut 'remains open; Water the layers if the (weather becomes dry, otherwise the layer will not make roots but will draw oh the parent plant for moisture. When the layer is well rooted, probably about the end of March, the layers may be severed from the parent plant. In a fortnight or three weeks the young plants will be well established and making new growth. They may then be transplanted to their permanent homes. Carnations are very popular plants. They make a good show, are deliciously fragrant and suitable for picking. Furthermore, the foliage of healthy plants is tidy and provides an excellent foil for the flowers of adjacent plants. They are sun-lovers and become subject to fungus diseases during wet weather or humid conditions. Where these conditions exist it is wise to spray regularly to prevent infection, as, once infected, it is practically impossible to clean them up entirely. The best method is to raise new plants every year or two and scrap the old plants, which are less vigorous, anyway, and become sources of infection. Carnations prefer a deep light loam Continued on page 8.