Work in the Garden

Lake County Mail, Issue 36, 11 February 1948, Page 7

Work in the Garden

CULT OF THE BULB Last week we discussed the general use of bulbs in groups in various positions in the garden. From these small beginnings there will always be some which particularly appeal to the individual gardener, and he may desire to make a special feature of them. The “ Bearded Iris ” is one of these. With the new hybrids of recent years there is a wide range from exquisite pinks to brilliant exotic crimsons and purples. An iris garden is rather bare in the off-season, and should be developed as a distinct feature away from the main approach to the home. In larger gardens informal plantings may be made in longish borders and bold groups. Another method is to select a site with a background of shrubs for early and late flower and an evergreen perennial edging in the foreground. The soil must be well drained, preferably a light to medium loam, and the position must be sunny. They are lime lovers, and this should be applied in the winter time. When preparing or replanting a border, some wellrotted organic material may be used to improve the soil texture, but no rich organic manuring is required. Now is the time to plant; in fact, any time between December and early February. Select only the strongest and more vigorous rhizomes from the outside of existing groups .and discard the weaker ones from the centre. If the weather conditions are dry, shorten back the outside leaves by slanting cuts upwards towards the centre, leaving the central leaves longer or uncut. Plant in groups of from five to 10 plants, according to the size of the border. There is a tendency for the roots to grow almost straight down; do not curl them up when planting. After the ground has been prepared, firm it evenly by tramping and rake out level. Make a deep vertical cut with the spade and draw the soil back. Plant the rhizome just at ground level with the roots against the vertical cut; then firm the soil back thoroughly with the boot. Kaleidoscope of Colours Probably the best arrangement of colours is to commence with the pink .shades, followed by, and mixed with, soft blues and then softer yellows. Continue with dark blues, purples and crimson interspersed with the richest yellow and gold shades. A group or so of white may be used among the darkest blue or crimson varieties, where they will form a striking contrast. If the border is long, this arrangement may extend inwards from either end, with a majestic grouping of the richer colours in the centre. Rhizomes should be one foot apart in the groups, and groups should be at least 18 inches apart. Once planted, they may be • left a number of years without much harm. However, they tend to become crowded and it is advisable to overhaul, manure and replant the bed every three or four years. Needless to say, shrubs in the background must be those requiring conditions similar to that of the iris. Smaller annuals may be planted throughout the border to give a little eolhur in the off-season, but too heavy growth would tend to check the thorough ripening of the rhizome which is essential to a good display. Similar beds or borders of richer soil may be used for English and Spanish iris varieties, and the hybrid Dutch iris and narcissus, hyacinths, tulips and others in the best soils. Narcissi may be scattered in drifts throughout the shrubberies, particularly the early-flowering Solid d’Or. In larger grounds they may be naturalised in grass, in bold, irregular or scattered drifts. The best way to do this is to broadcast the bulbs and plant them where they fall. The easiest method is to use a bulb-planter, which removes a section of turf neatly and quickly. It is rather slower using a sharp trowel. They should be planted three to four inches deen and as early as possible. Another method is to cut out a square of turf with the spade

By J. W. Goodwin, N.thH., N.Z., F.R.H.S., Massey Agricultural College

and plant several bulbs beneath each turf. Attractive Companions Grape hyacinths (muscari) are attractive if planted en masse four or five inches apart and two or three indies deep underneath the flowering prunus moserii or blierana, which flower at the same time. Wood hyacinths (scilla natans), in several colours, may be scattered under deciduous trees or in light woodland conditions. The large hyacinths make quite a nice small bod or narrow border, as they last quite well in flower and make an excellent display. They may be planted four to six inches deep and about four inches apart for mass display. Alternatively, they may be planted in rows 12 inches apart and later in May inter-planted and edged with dwarf blue myosotis. Pink myosotis may be used with blue hyacinths. Iceland poppies planted in May will flower after the hyacinths and, as with myosotis, will carry the display on till the hyacinth foliage ripens. Tulips make excellent beds by themselves, or they may be planted with myosotis or wallflower. In frosty areas planting may be delayed till April or early May where the soil lis light. There is a tendency for early growth to develop in these soils, and later frosts damage the foliage. In heavier, colder soils less growth is made above ground and bulbs may be planted in March or April. The tulip, however,, prefers a really good soil and should be planted four to six inches deep and eight or nine inches apart. If a medium-growing tulip is to be interplanted and edged with myosotis, the distance should be 12 inches apart. Wallflowers are planted 15 inches apart each way, and tulips may be planted in between the rows and opposite the space between the plants of the outer row. Yellow Bouton d’Or tulip looks well with myosotis. Pink tulips, in fact most colours, will go reasonably well with, myosotis blue. Tall varieties of tulips should be used with wallflowers, yellow colours with red flame or orange wallflowers, and scarlet colours with yellow, flame or orange wallflowers. If the centre wallflowers contrast with tulips and the edging is the same colour as the tulips, the display will always be effective. I prefer always to plant tulips in a handful of sand; it does not take a great deal longer. Tulip species, of which there are a large number of really interesting members are better grown on a rock garden. Of the lower-growing small bulbs, effective use may be made of large quantities if they wo planted in ribbons about 12 inches wide, either as an edging or inner row. Other plants may be grown in front or behind to carry on a succession. For instance, an edge of catmint, a 12-inch ribbon of tritonia erocata behind, and a background of scarlet geranium, crocus, tritonia, strephanthera, sparaxis, nerine filifolia, freesias and others, are suited to dry, sunny borders. Scilla bifolia, S. sibirica, many crocus chionadoxa, and many others are suited to betterclass soil conditions. Potted Pleasures Many people desire to grow bulbs in pots, either for room decoration or in the greenhouse. Others have no gardens and wish to grow them for window boxes. Quite a number of bulbs lend themselves to this treatment, notably narcissi, particularly Solid d’Or and the stronger-growing colourful ■ varieties, hyacinths, grape hyacinths, tulips, Dutch iris and Lily of the Valley. Size five, six or eightinch flower pots may be used, the larger sizes being more suitable for larger bulbs. Boxes six inches or more deep, about nine or 10 inches wide and of any suitable length, are also suitable and may be made to fit a window box. The fir f . ’mnortant point is to have a fairly rfi ' d well-drained compost. Fa'i ’v I ■ ”-ocks,” pieces of a broken , should be placed, concave ■ own wards. ov«r the drainage o a box these holes should bo • inch in diameter and about five inches apart. Place smaller Continued on page 8.