« Work in the Garden »

Lake County Mail, Issue 35, 4 February 1948, Page 7

« Work in the Garden »

BULBS AND ALLIED PLANTS Bulbous plants are fascinating, and new and improved forms are . being developed each year. Once they find a happy home there is a natural increase which soon builds up a good stock. , The majority are suitable for picking if desired, and they are less trouble than most herbaceous plants. There is little staking, disbudding or watering required. The main point in this respect is to be careful to avoid damage when cultivating among dormant bulb's. At that season there is no leaf growth to warn the gardener, and spades and hoes may do untold damage. In general garden practice, a very wide range of plants is included under the title of bulbs, and allied plants. Technically speaking, there are two classes of true bulbs. The first, a firm bulb, built up of layer upon layer of scale leaves, is referred to as a tunicated bulb, and includes the hyacinth, narcissus and onion. In the second, the scales are free and the bulb, of which lilium is the commonest, is termed a “ scaly ” bulb. Under the more general title we have “ conns,” which are solid and possess no scales, but bear one or more buds at the apex, e.g., gladioli, cyclamen, crocus, etc. “ Tubers ” are fleshy thickened underground stems, sometimes with eyes as in the tuberous begonia and potato, and sometimes with eyes only at the union of the tuber with the stem, as in the dahlia. “ Rhizomes ” are fleshy creeping underground stems of , which the bearded iris is a common sample. “ Pips ” or “ crowns ” are terms applied to lily of the valley and similar plants. Generally they may be said to consist of one or more buds supported by thick fleshy tissue which : serves to protect them and nourish the i new season’s growth from the food reserves stored within. Endless Variety in Habit With the majority, the fibrous roots below, and the foliage above, ripen off annually. A few, notably among the “ rhizomes ” and “pips,” may be evergreen or develop permanent fleshy roots. In these cases, and those which are soft and fleshy, they must not be allowed to dry out. Examples are liliums, erythroniums (dog’s tooth violets), fritillaria, and others. These may be stored in damp, but not wet, spagnum moss for a considerable period, or may be “laid • in ” in sandy, leafy soil in a copl part of the garden. There is endless variety in habit, form, size, and colour. They are adaptable to many purposes; some are unique, others are flowers of remarkable beauty. Neither colchiums, amarrllis (Belladona Lily), and allied autumn-flowering subjects develop their foliage after flowering and during the cooler part of the year. They become dormant during the fierce, dry summer conditions of their natural habitat. Other subjects come from countries where there is ample spring rainfall, and these may flower in autumn or spring and develop their leaf growth during the spring months. In most cases root growth commences with the late summer or autumn rains, and a good root system is developed which will enable the plant to make the fullest possible leaf growth. It is essential, therefore, to plant bulbs as early as possible. They may not make leaf growth, but they are not dormant. The food reserve in the bulb assists the development of the root system and flowers. Equally as important is the ripening period, when food assimilated by the loaves is stored in the bulb ready for a flying start -next season. Never abuse a plant after it has flowered, by the mutilation or removal of these leaves before they turn yellow. This brings u3 to the only drawback which bu I bs may possess as decorative plants. Large plantings arc., apt to hj > come very untidy, and are advisaV only when certain subjpects- arc os.-d / bedding display.. This ar-cthm.. i e;,, :. - of growing in pots, will be dji - < . >;'<,» • • next'week., . ... ' ... . f .. •v Prefrr-'rrial Treatment The, niorp -highly-developed bulbs,., of

By J. W. Goodwin, N.D.H., N.Z., F.R.H.S., Massey Agricultural College

which there are large numbers of horticultural varieties, include narcissi, hyacinth, tulip, gladioli, and others. These subjects require a good, deep,* wellconditioned soil fairly rich in humus. Really well-rotted manure may be used for this purpose, and, with a dressing of bone flour or finely-ground bone meal hoed into the surface at N planting time, is all that, is required. Unless the soil is in exceptionally good condition, bulbs should be set in sand, which is free and permits expansion of the new bulb and ensures that moisture is drained* away from the bulb. It will also prevent the bulb from coming in contact with any organic manure. Narcissii may be left for several years in the border, but the exhibition, or choice varieties, are lifted annually and planted back almost immediately. The hyacinths and tulips should be lifted annually and planted back in the autumn,- as they almost invariably deteriorate if left in over summer. This is accounted for either by the soil conditions or, more often, the un-natural conditions brought about, by watering adjacent plants during the dormant period, or heavy summer rains. Gladioli develop the new corm above the shrivelled remains of the old one, and a new soil position and the freedom from competition of young conns and old remains will always give better results. There are, however, a large number of bulbs which may be left for several years. As soon as the plants become too crowded these may be lifted and replanted in new ground, or the soil may be “built up” by the addition of rotted organic material. The crocus and’Dutch iris are two of many which may be treated in this manner. There are other plants which fail to flower 'freely until weir established. Most of them do not require rich soil, and they should not be disturbed until it is seen that they are deteriorating. Many of them require a thorough ripening by the sun, and for this reason nerines, hippeastrums, amaryllis (Belladonna), sprekelia, valotta and similar plants should be planted in really sunny positions, with the neck of the bulb protruding above the ground. These are quite good subjects for planting in the foreground of shrub borders, as the root competition does not worry them to any extent. Iris unguieularis (stylosa) in several colours makes a handsome contribution in late winter and early spring flowers. In rich ground they fail to flower freely, and even in average garden soil may not flower until they become really crowded, Another, the bulbous iris tingitana, receives a real roasting each summer in its Algerian home. They should be planted in poorish soil in the hottest .possible situation. The sunny side or some root-robbing shrubs is probably the best. To Hide Ripening Foliage The depth of planting of the general range of bulbs may be given as twice the depth of the bulb. As there are plants from the dry areas, so there are those from richer peaty soils, and these should be given corresponding positions in the garden. They may lie planted among shrubs and other plants desiring similar conditions, but not in an association of plants with strong root-robbing tendencies. Most liliums, the Crown Imperial (fritillaria imperialis) and tuberous begonias belong to this class. So much for the larger and easier-. grown bulbs. Those. which find our climate trying will usually succeed in selected positions on the rock garden, where the- rocks give shelter and provide a cool, nioist root-run beneath. All small quantities of small bulbs should be planted on the rock garden, as they become lost in the competition and cultivation of the open border. Streptanthera cuprea tritouias, geissorkiya, romuleas, and the smaller crocus species • are a,few showy plants which are not particular as to soil, but their bulbs are minll, and should be planted 'on the drier parts of a rock garden. We cannot remove the ripening foliage; the auestion ,is how to hide it view,, The .larger bulbs may be planted in. groups two to three feet across Mn shrubberies and mixed borCpntinued on page 8. i