«Work in the Garden»

Lake County Mail, Issue 29, 10 December 1947, Page 6

«Work in the Garden»

the unobtrusive stake <s If I were asked to name a common weakness which frequently spoils an otherwise attractive garden, my answer would he: insufficient and untidy staking. A well-grown plant may frequently bear such a profusion of flowers that its stems fail to carry the load and plants lie asprawl. Add a light fall of rain to its own weight, and even tree branches may snap under the strain, particularly if there is an absence of wind which would otherwise shake off some of the water. Again it is not logical to expect ' r M tall, slender stem, heavily laden with leaf and flower, to withstand the onslaughts of boisterous winds. If we are to derive the greatest pleasure from our garden we must assist the plant to display its colour to fullest advantage. It is absolutely essential to stake the majority of medium and tall-growing perennials. At this time of the year many of the early summer plants will already be staked, but the major staking programme for late summer and autumn plants must be carried out as soon as possible. Staking, or supporting, plants is one of- the fine arts of gardening. It is necessary that the gardener should know the approximate height to which the plants will grow. Growth is so rapid now that neat stakes should be carefully placed, with their base hidden by foliage and the tops projecting above the present .foliage level. The height above will depend on the amount of growth to be made before flowering. Framework for Mass Effect The alstroemerias are subjects, flowering now, which have insufficiently strong stems to carry the flowers upright when grown in the open border. They should have been staked about the end of October by inserting stakes, two feet above ground level, every 15 inches apart around the edge of the clump. This will be insufficient if the clump is large, and stakes must be inserted throughout the clump the same distance apart. The stakes should be joined by strands of raffia, the first, at staking time, being one foot above ground level. As growth increases, additional strands may be tied around and through the clumps. Selected growths may be trained up the outside of each cane and will soon hide them completely. Following this treatment we have an attractive rounded mass of the beautiful pink flowers of A. chilensis. Other species, though sturdier, need similar support unless sheltered and somewhat supported by surrounding shrubs., Similar treatment should be applied to all plants making slender growth. The staking of gypsophila is probably the most effective of all. A two-year-old plant of G. Bristol Fairy, or the pink G. Flamingo, may be trained co a round, feathery mass of flowers three feet or more across and of similar 'height. Stakes should be placed immediately, as the plants are now making rapid growth. Space four or five stakes around the plant. Slope them outwards. This should always be the case, as the basal foliage hides the stake and the wide spacing at the top enables the fullest development of top growth. Tie with raffia strands approximately one foot apart as for alstroemenia. When several stakes are used up to a height of three feet above ground level, I prefer to use bamboo cane about half to two-thirds of an inch thick. They are strong in proportion to their thickness, and neat in appearance. For the taller plants canes three-quarter to one inch in diameter may be used. For the Harder Ground If the ground is hard it is difficult to drive thick bamboo stakes, and recourse should be had to inch-by-inch sawn stakes of matai or other available timber. The cost of these stakes is considerable and it is advisable to purchase early and treat the lower end with creosote or tar to a height of several inches above intended ground level. Ground-level height depends on whether the soil is sandy or clayey. Do not buy many short stakes, as there are usually sufficient tall stakes damaged each year which may be utilised. There are many other types of stakes which may be used, including No. 6 fencing wire, half-inch conduit, and manuka. The important point is that they should be tidy and carefully placed so that the plant may hide them as it grows. I must emphasise here that it is better to use a few strong strands of raffia or flax than to have too many ties and short ends, which appear untidy. Secure with a half-hitch or several loops around each stake, knot securely, and cut the short ends off with a knife. With dahlias, verbenas, delphiniums, hollyhocks and other stout plants with only a few stems, the best method is to use only one stout stake. This should

By J. W. Goodwin, N.D.H., N.Z., F.R.H.S., Massey Agricultural College,

cured by individual ties. The aim is to secure these plants from lashing winds which may break them off at ground level. Actually, they are strong enough to carry their flowers provided that movement to and fro is not too great. A sling tie is used of thick raffia placed around the stem above a leaf or joint, the ends crossed over between the stem and stake, and tied around the stake to prevent slipping. Do not draw the stem in close to the stake; just take its weight. Even if the sling be 12 inches long it will still save the plant, if and when required. This is the best method where there are few shoots per plant, or the plants are widely spaced. Where plants are spaced in groups for mass effect, when they meet during the summer, it is better to use a number of slender stakes and tie as suggested for alstroernerias. Wire Has Its Uses Where short lengths of wire are available, particularly if galvanised No. 6, they make excellent and durable stakes for gladioli, carnations and many plants of low or medium height. For carnations, wire loops may be made eight or nine inches in diameter at the top of a stake. The stake is pressed well into the ground and the ring surrounds the young shoots. As the flower stems grow, the stake is pulled up a little, bringing the ring up to support them. Two stakes are often attached to one ring to give added support. Whilst staking, there are several other little jobs to do. Many plants send up a mass of shoots, and it is obvious that all cannot develop fully. Before tying, the weak and spindly shoots should be removed and the others thinned a little if very close. This is advantageous with Michaelmas daisies, golden rod, perennial phlox, perennial sunflowers and many similar plants of upright growth. There will always be a few weeds, right in the crowns of the plants, which have eluded the hoe. Remove these now, as it would be folly to remove them later and damage the carefully staked plant. As the ground is trampled during staking and will require thorough hoeing, it is wise to clean over those plants that have finished flowering. Odds and ends of annuals left over from the bedding schemes may be grouped to take the- place of those plants becoming dormant, or seedlings may be purchased to fill the gaps. A dozen of several of suitable height will add greatly to the display and give variety. There is a wide range of material to choose from. The one hoeing will suffice for all operations. When cleaning over perennials, remove the whole flowering stalk to within three or four inches of the ground. The basal leaves will then develop to assimilate food and develop crowns to produce next season’s display. These basal leaves of lupin, aquilegia and others are .quite attractive furnishing the area and acting as a foil for the flowers of later plants. Storeroom for Bulbs Hyacinths, tulips and other bulbs which it is intended to lift this year may be dug up and stored in a cool, airy shed as soon as the leaves yellow. If it is desired to lift a little early, ‘they may be heeled in carefully in a shady place to complete ripening. The two bulbs named do lietter if lifted each year and stored till the autumn. Watch them closely in store, for if the storeroom be rather warm, aphis may appear on the bulbs. These should be destroyed, as they spread virus in tulips. Now is the time to place your order with your seedsman. He has a difficult time in attempting to determine which and what will be in demand next year. Seed of many species and varieties are in short supply overseas, -and he must order early if he expects to receive his share. In fact, many will have forwarded their main orders some weeks ago. So, if you wish to obtain any of the less common varieties and novelties, order immediately. The progressive gardener always plans and prepares 12 months ahead.