FARM AND GARDENING

Kaipara and Waitemata Echo, 15 May 1914, Page 4

FARM AND GARDENING

MAY,

Kitchen Garden.—A small sowing of

carrots and turnips may be made. Onions, sow for spring use and for dibbling out, so as to obtain large bulbs; always sow in drills, as they are easier kept free from weeds. Broad beans, sow in drills about three feet apart and four inches in the rows. Peas, to obtain the earliest crop,, sow in rows in a dry soil and warm situation ; select the earliest and most approved kind, such as William Hurst or Gradus. Hoe and stir the soil around broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, prickly spinach, and other growing crops ; earth up any that require it. Hoe and thin crops of carrots, turnips, onions and spinach sown last month. Dig up sweet potatoes ; dry, and store in boxes with dry sand. Continue to gather and store in a dry place, free from damp, pumpkins, pie-melons, etc. Potato-onions plant in row's of eighteen inches apart by six. Shallots, plant in rows twelve inches apart by four. Celery, plant the last trench for late spring use, and earth those previously planted as the plants require it. Asparagus, cut down the old stems and fork up the surface of the beds; then throw some of the soil on each side, and give a good dressing of stable manure to the depth of two or three inches ; mix salt or kainit with the manure to the roots. Beds for asparagus can scarcely be too highly manured, as its good quality depends upon the quickness of its growth. Seakale beds fork over and manure ; rhubarb beds should also be dug over and thoroughly manured ; the old roots should also be ■ lifted and placed under a tree till required for planting. If the beds have been down two years, a new bed should be trenched and manured, so that the young plants may be planted in the spring : divide those that have become too large, or put in young roots. Old roots are better to lie upon the surface of the ground for a month or so previous to planting. When putting in give a liberal amount of manure ; plant from two to four feet apart, according to size and age of roots. Flower Garden. —Any alterations that are required ought to be completed by the end. of this month, such as manuring and trenching, forming new lawns, and renovating old by top dressing with a good rich compost, swept and raked well into the ground, and by sowing a little fresh seed. With the exception of the chrysanthemums, salvia splendens, bouvardias, and a few other late blooming plants, there will be little in flower. Lift dahlia roots as they ripen, and lay out to dry previous to storing away for winter. Plant out late crops of bulbs for spring j flowering, viz., iris, ixia, hyacinth, narcissus, sparazis, tulips, etc. ; also gladiolas, Colvellei and the Bride, for early flowering. Anemones and ranunculipre- , pare beds for same. The best soil for these is one which has been well manured the previous spring, adding a sprinkling of basic slag, as fresh manure placed in the beds or borders is apt to generate a little white insect, which is very injurious to the tubers. They succeed best in a somewhat moist and cool situation. Fork, manure, and dig all flower beds and borders ; remove all decayed flower stems, and maintain everywhere the most perfect neatness. Cineraries can be planted with effect, and numbers of them can be used in masses, but only in such positions as are not subjected to much frost. In a good-sized bed, a permanent centre looks well, something ornamental and graceful, if possible ; the green contrasts with the bright blossoms around. By this means the mixed border is still inviting and attractive. Cut back and trim all herbaceous and soft-wooded plants, divide those that are over-grown, regulate and replant. The Orchard.—Trenching and digg- j ing and all those operations in preparation for wet weather should be pushed on ; manuring is best left to the spring. All fruit that is still on the trees should be carefully removed as soon as possible, and the fruit in the house must be carefully gone over frequently in order to remove such as are decaying. All such trees as have dropped the leaf may now be planted, choosing a dry day for the purpose. Don't plant deep, and don't tread the ground hard on the roots. Cut back coarse, fibreless roots, and remove all cut and wounded ones; spread them out nicely and equally all round the tree, and if there are more than one layer of roots, don't bend down the upper ones, but spread such layer separately, so as to run horizontally. Do not seek to sustain the tree in its position by pressing the roots, but secure it to stakes, and be careful that your ties do not injure the bark when the wind causes the ' tree to shake. Gooseberries crop well and are very profitable, particularly in colder districts. Gooseberries and currants : Plant them very shallow, well secured, and four feet apart (at least) every way. Delay planting strawberries no longer, and give them some very well-rooted manure ; carefully remove all runners left after planting new beds. Pruning can be gone on with this month; particularly gooseberries, currents and early bearers.